Jump to content

Adam H P15 D30

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. It's the speed sensor, the "hose" is the wire shield.
  2. Your manifolds look top notch! Much better than the others out there...
  3. Just make sure your body is securely bolted down to the frame. My floors were non-existent so I made a new structure and used 14ga for the flat parts, 18ga for the trans/driveshaft tunnel and lower rockers. Harder to work with but very solid and quiet.
  4. I would just replace it. Look for GL1-GL4 oil only, stay away from GL5.
  5. The valve built into the original master cylinder is more like a 10lb residual valve. My disc brakes were dragging with it in there. I removed it and added no external valves and it’s been working fine for some time now. Even after sitting for weeks I never have a low pedal. Adam
  6. Multiple carbs and dual exhaust do make a difference. I agree 3 may be too much and you could also run into firewall clearance issues. I would look at dual Carter-Webers from Langdon, mine run very well on an otherwise stock flathead. Performance and driveability were both improved. Adam
  7. Looks like there is rust in part of the crack indicating it had been cracked for a while before it broke off. Could it have been dropped at some point? I’ve run several 6v starters on 12v for years without issue. Adam
  8. Hello Everyone, 1500 mile update and I have to say all is well. I have aligned it so I don't eat up my new tires and retorqued the intake/exhaust, it has been a hoot to drive. I also cleaned up some over spray from the glass and polished the chrome as much as I could. I have taken it to 2 local shows and it seems the Dodge crest on the hood and the intake gets the most attention. My oldest comes home from college this weekend and I will loose my pick-up for a week so the Dodge is on deck... Supposed to rain a few of those days but my wipers are up to the task it's just a car, right? Picture from local car show #1. It sure felt good to park next to the Ferraris and Lambos only to have to stand there all day and talk to people about the old Dodge. One guy with a 6 digit Italian car asked me why am I getting all the attention? I said "Not sure, it's just a POS old Dodge." He left in a huff Show #2 And with my youngest, she always asks to take "Lumpy"
  9. Thanks, used to look like this, took a lot of wet sanding to get the primer off the green paint.
  10. You don't have to have a shiny paint job for a driver. "Crappy paint" as you so eloquently put it suits me just fine.
  11. This makes sense except some of the worst work I have ever seen comes out of these so called "pro shops." Unless you or your friend (who you trust) knows what to look for, it's a gamble with any car, modified or not. Sometimes a bigger gamble coming out of a '"pro shop."
  12. I think they were built well. I don't think Ma Mopar thought these cars would be running 70 years later? Fatigue starts the first day after construction, it's only a matter of time after that point.
  13. Exactly right Tim, after that incident there's only 2 fans I'll ever use. 1. New 2. Electric (also new) All others get tossed in the scrap bin. Funny thing is I drove the rest of the day without a fan and only hit 200 once, lol
  14. No, a close up showed a dirty or rusty crack followed by fresh crack. would have never been able to see it without removal... Who the hell would knowingly continue to run a cracked fan?
  15. I know what let mine go, a small crack developed at one of the rivets. It was mounted correctly and securely for 3 years prior... That picture was taken on the side of the freeway on ramp after I unbolted the remains and went back for the missing blade. It let go at about 4,000 rpm as I was accelerating up hill to get to speed. The only carnage was a cut headlight harness and my soiled pants/seat
  16. Make sure to inspect it very carefully...
  17. I drive mine all the time, I can't say daily but an average of 2 days per week, rain or shine. I have about $8K in it not including bartering and trading stuff, it never sees the garage and 50% of the time it lives on the street. Mostly stock flathead except for a head shave and intake/exhaust mods. It is my daily when one of my kids come home from college and I loose my pick up and I commute 70 miles per day in San Francisco Bay Area traffic. This is usually all summer long and a month at Christmas + 1-2 days per week when I just want to drive it. Your list looks sound and is basically what I did, couple of comments/suggestions on your list: --Disc brakes/dual pot MC - I used Rusty Hope's kit and was very pleased but there is some drilling and tapping involved, still have the single pot MC --Electronic ignition - DO YOUR HOMEWORK! If you're upgrading to 12v, there are choices out there, some are MUCH more reliable than others! --Electric wipers/maybe one of those Vintage Air setups for heat/AC - I still have my vacuum wipers but I use a vacuum reservoir, no more issues. --12-volt conversion (if necessary/really helpful) - YES, I kept the 6v for a year to "keep the faith" but I ran into issues stuck with long idling periods with heater fan and headlights on (traffic) --Radials --Shoulder belts Adam
  18. Hello Harvie, The other end goes to a manifold vacuum source on the intake. Most stock intakes have a place for it to go, I made my own intake so I put a vacuum source into my plenum by design. Be advised, you may or may not need to mess with jetting as a PCV valve is essentially a metered vacuum leak. Here is the link I think Don is talking about but this is the factory system and will cost a few bucks more. Adam
  19. I cut the factory draft tube off, turned it upside down, added an o-ring between it and the block, 1 grommet and pcv valve. Easy and it works well. Adam
  20. I have to also agree with Don here. There just isn’t enough spring pressure or fast ramp on these old cams. 30k on my flathead and no flat cam. But it certainly can’t hurt to add zinc, just not needed. All my Hemis get it though, but that’s where it is needed. Don’t add too much zinc or it can do damage. Adam
  21. I just removed the plug in the back of the master cylinder, removed the rubber check valve assy and discarded the rubber piece, reassembled. Some say you must have residual pressure valves added (2lb front, 10lb rear) I never added them and my brakes are great, never have a low pedal even after sitting for weeks. Took about 20 minutes unless you are going for a points correct restoration, I’d change to disc before I sunk a nickel into the old drums. Especially if you drive where there is any kind of traffic. Only made that mistake once. Adam
  22. Is the 10-30 oil detergent? If so, better clean the pan out. Put a pcv valve in it instead of the road draft tube and that should help your crankcase smoking issue. Adam
  23. Hello Jorge- GL4 is just fine, wish we could get it here. My trans grinds a little downshifting to second but it’s 70 years old so I put up with it but technically it shouldn’t. A mis adjusted or dragging clutch could also cause a grind but you would probably have issues with every gear. Probably a worn blocking ring on the 2-3 synchronizer. I also want to say that you did a beautiful job restoring that car. Be proud of your work! Adam
  24. From the resources section here: Fluid Capacity Information Engine Oil 5 quarts Fuel Tank 17 Gallons Rear Axle 3-1/4 pints Transmission 2-3/4 pints 2nd and 3rd should be synchronized- Is your clutch adjusted correctly? Use GL1 - GL4 oil only, GL5 may damage your yellow metals (brass blocking rings). If someone has put GL5 oil in, Particularly older GL5, that might be the cause of your shifting issue. Some of the new GL5 oil is listed as yellow metal safe but I don't buy it. You could also have a worn synchronizer assy. I would try the correct oil first GL1-GL4, GL1 is sold at NAPA Adam
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use