Adam H P15 D30

That's the way my 49 is titled in CA, came with a title when I bought it. My 47 is titled off the body serial number by my choice because it didn't come with a title.

My Wayfarer does not have a damper but I also read somewhere that a lot of Fluid Drive cars didn't come with them, but who knows.

A lot of talk lately about the cr@ppy foreign made points on several forums. Even some on the most traditional forums are citing defeat and changing to electronic ignition. Adam

Sorry for the confusion, I think your master cylinder faces opposite of mine (forward) in your 39...

Rich, just curious, was it the residual pressure valve? Rubber flap thingy that goes in just before the back bolt? I’m probably not being clear, lol. Adam

I used a 30A relay to power my electronic ignition, and vacuum pump that activates with the ignition in the RUN position only. I used a second 30A relay that powers everything else on the ACC side of the ignition switch. ACC is also hot in RUN but not vise-versa. FWIW, Adam

It will bolt in. If the 49 has stock running gear, it is a Fluid Drive. If someone changed it to a standard clutch (non FD) use your D24 trans and FD unit. Both crankshafts should be 8 bolt but if the engine not original to the 49, who knows.... If you wish to keep it numbers matching, rebuild or store the stocker while you enjoy the car with the 49 engine in it. Adam

Paul, Mine had lock washers, no locktite. How come the overdrive isn't going in? Adam

It's a Midland Ross brake booster. can theoretically mount it anywhere and they are still available.

I do have to say those manifolds look really cool and kudos to you for casting your own!!! Hotrodding at its finest! 1 question, will the rear carb clear the firewall or heater box (if there is one)? The Carter/Webers are so tune-able that someone probably could get 3 to work well. Keep us updated on how this works out. I for one will be following. My home-made intake but not as cool as yours...

Langdon's Stovebolt has the Carter/Weber 32's originally used on the 1.6 and 1.8L Escorts. Work great in duals, I still think 3 is too much. Adam

On a 40 Ford, I used a triple 97 manifold on an 8BA slightly modified engine. I ended up blocking off the center carb and ran on the 2 outers, ran much, much better that way. 3 2bbls were too much, but sure looked cool! FWIW, Adam

The wiring harness is probably junk anyway.... Unless you are going to a full restoration why keep the antiquated 6v system? You have to use a specialized wiring harness to handle the increased amperage and instead of one of the many 12v harnesses and FUSES that are manufactured for people doing what you are doing. I did the 6v thing for a few years on my 49, but I like using it for the quick trip to the store, over to a buddy's house 1/2 mile away. Using the heater and lights on short trips during winter nights and I got tired of plugging the damn trickle charger in all the time. Some of that could be solved by a 6v alternator as Don and others pointed out but why? You're changing the harness anyway... Remember, the factory harness has no fuses and 1 circuit breaker for the headlamps. As Worden 18 points out, transistorized ignition is available for 6v systems but Pertronics is a specialized component and if it fails out in Timbuktu, you will be waiting a few days for a replacement unless you carry a spare or spare points to revert back. I am not a huge fan of these type of components on drivers, better to find off-the-shelf solutions for ignition systems and other mods that is readily available at NAPA or other stores. Unfortunately that almost always requires the vehicle be up to "industry standard" hence 12v. There is a reason the manufactures switched to 12v in the mid 50's. This is one man's opinion and should be taken as such, Adam

Ahhh, don't let the nay-sayers get you down. A little work now to upgrade to 12v and a lot less headache down the road, but your radio will not work when changing polarity unless it is reworked to operate on neg. ground. AMP gauge doesn't care how many volts go through it, a $15.00 RUNTZ resistor for the fuel gauge and you're good to go. If you have a trans with solenoids, I ran an R10 overdrive solenoids for years on 12v with no issue. If you drive it a lot and have to change a light bulb in the middle of a trip, 12v bulbs are everywhere! Adam

Unless you are building a 100 point restoration, there is no reason to stay 6 volt and fuss with inverters for your 12 volt needs. Just convert it to 12 volts and be done. Adam

I understand replicating Dad's car but the 39 headlights look so cool without the conversion. My first car was a 39 Plym coupe just like yours. It was my only car, I drove it to school, to the lake, to the drive-in . If it didn't run I either bummed a ride or took the bus. It almost always got me where I needed to go and this was in the late 80's, so they are reliable. This was after I unstuck the motor too. It eventually got a 413 / A833 but only because I wanted to go faster. Adam

One of the most overlooked part of a carb rebuild, checking for flatness, glad you got it sorted out. I remember having to hammer Quadrajet upper halves flat because of over tightening the front mounting bolts. Adam

Make sure to bump the compression up, a lot. Those were around 7:1 stock. Sometimes the factory claimed higher but still were about 7:1. Bumping it to 9.5 + will be a huge power improvement. Hemi heads can handle even higher without detonation. Adam

Is your current lug pattern 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5? If you look for early Falcon or Mustang 8” rear axles with tapered axle tubes, the price is low because of the small tubes but plenty strong for a flathead. I put one in my 49.

Looks like the streetrod crew got ahold of it. Has it been clipped? What radiator is in it? /6 is a good engine, not much on power but it will run forever. You are correct though, better than a SBC. the dash isn’t too bad, better colors or 1 color would make a huge improvement. Servicing it wouldn’t be much different than a mid 60’s Valiant.

Is there a reason you don’t want a draw through? A lot easier and the fuel cools the charge air. Adam

Hello 55, Hope this topic is as successful as your driver topic. Here's mine but I think most people have read it by now... My final post was an evaluation of the finished product. And a picture of the finished product.

I used a 2001 Explorer 8.8 in my current build (the 47). 4.1 Trac Lock Sorry, don't have the measurements handy. I also used the factory Explorer sway bar, mounts and end links. Made for a clean install

An Explorer 8.8 will plenty strong. You will shell that T5 long before the 8.8. I’d look at a T56 instead of the T5. An 8” wheel might be a little too wide without frame narrowing. I have whipped the snot out of 8.8’s and it’s impressive how strong they are. Weld the axle tubes to the center section. Adam

Here is a better shot after I got mine off... Easier that looking at the photo on my cell phone.