Adam H P15 D30

Since you're already cutting them up, convert them to paper air filters. Looks will be the same and you don't have to worry about the mess.

When I changed the rear axle in my 49, I ordered a new driveshaft with a slip yoke from Denny's: 1 x [1310SS-3] 1310 Series 3 inch with Spline and Slip Driveshaft for CHEVY, GMC, FORD, DODGE, JEEP, IHC Price: $320.95, Each: $320.95 1 x [2-2-349] Dana Spicer 2-2-349 DODGE Flange Yoke Replacement for old Detroit "POT" Style Ball and Trunion Driveshafts Price: $46.95, Each: $46.95 Adam

Your stock 15" wheels may not fit with the Scarebird kit. My stock 15" wheels fit with Rusty Hope's (olddaddy's) kit. There was a thread not too long ago where the stock 15" wheel didn't fit on a Scarebird kit, had to order new wheels. Adam

Is that with a known reliable gauge? If so, Send it back to the builder. That sounds like excessive bearing clearances.

Temporarily attach a different oil gauge to the engine and check to see if you have the same funny readings.

If you want a brass radiator, Walker is about the best out there. http://www.walkerradiatorworks.com/Radiator-Engine-Cooling-Products/Radiator_Details.asp?rID=603&rY=1942,1943,1944,1945,1946,1947,1948&rM=Plymouth

When I removed it 4 years ago I fully expected to be forced to install residual pressure valves, but I decided to give it a try..... That was 4 years ago and I have never had to pump the brakes to get a pedal, even after sitting for months. I have left them out on other cars and had problems with low master cylinders. Maybe a magic master cylinder? Adam

I always thought this too. In fact my other hot rods all have the residuals front and back with a modern master cylinder. For some reason the stock master cylinder doesn't need them, at least mine has never exhibited symptoms of needing them.

Remove the internal check valve and drive...

There was a thread on here a while back where someone CC'd a few heads from 201-230 engines. I think the intent of the thread was to determine some sort of unsurfaced base line but there were notable differences in the combustion chamber CC's. I did a quick search and couldn't find it but there are differences. I THINK the late 30's 201 heads had the smallest CC but not sure... Adam

Run the timing up till it pings under high load, back off until ping goes away, back off another 2 degrees. That should get you super close as long as it starts well. If is doesn't start well (too advanced) back off accordingly. Specs from 60+ years ago should only be used as a baseline, fuel has changes A LOT since especially octane ratings and burn rates. Set it to where the engine is happiest and who cares what the actual number is. Adam

Those shock mounts will fatigue and oil can the floor in short order. Better to use a frame mount. Adam

I'm sure you will get a lot of advice and "what I would do" so this will be mine.... If you're good with a tape measure, carpenter's square and protractor. If the original frame is as good as it looks, clip it with the Dakota front end, install the springs and rear axle in the back, leave the rest of the Dakota frame for the scrappers. Much easier and the end result might look a little better.

Since I converted to 12 volts years ago, I gutted the old voltage regulator and added the fan relay in there (along with 2 others).

I put a 'T' in my heater hose connection. There is always flow through a 5/16 line warming the intake.

Mine kicks on at 185 off at 175. Many temps available though.

Old thread but I'll bite.... This is all you need plus a relay. Very reliable as almost all manufactures use them.

Try these people for your windshield. http://www.streetrodglass.com/classic_car_windshields_truck_auto.jsp Adam

I removed the rubber flap from the sheet metal disk you’re holding. Put the metal part back in and reassemble. Adam

It's a BIIIIGGGGG transmission, so cut your floors accordingly.

Mine was from a 91 or 92 Dakota 318 V8. The reason I suggest Quality Engineered Components for the adapter is my torque converter bolts were a pain in the a$$ with the Wilcap, much easier with QEC one, plus he can answer any HEMI questions you may have. http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/ With your 276 HEMI, you do not have to do the internal mods I chose to do. I've been building transmissions for 25+ years so I can't leave them alone, lol. If you end up with a 2 wire A518 with lock up converter, that's perfectly fine. Several aftermarket places make very very simple kits for the lock up function. Adam EDIT: With a 276, I would also be on the lookout for an A500 O/D. Basically the 904 version instead of the 727 version the 518 is and smaller sized. It should handle anything your 276 will put out. Just make sure you get the correct bellhousing. These transmissions come with a .69 overdrive, so unless you're running short tires, I'd up the gear ratio to at the very least 3.73+ 1 more EDIT. Check your torque converter bolt circle. Make sure it matches the flexplate bolt circle, Ma Mopar had 2 bolt patterns for the torque converters.

Yeah, I’ve read his stuff before.

I prefer the electronic slant 6 distributor mod with an HEI module. Better dwell control and spark than a pertronics and if anything goes wrong, every parts store carries the stuff. Adam

@oldasdirt That may be true and 3 carbs might not be too much but it’s always better to be a little under carbed than over carbed on the street. Adam

I put a Dakota A518 behind my Chrysler HEMI with a Wilcap adapter, I think the adapters are the same. If I did it again I would've used Quality Engineered Components (Wayfarer here) adapter for a few specific reasons. I used a 92 Dakota 518 without converter lock up and put big block TF727 direct and forward drums in it, Changed the intermediate bad apply lever to a 4.6 ratio, put the early intermediate band piston in from the TF727. Did a few valve body mods and installed a home made restrictor in the front drum apply circuit. Easy trans to work on except for the O/D unit, need a press to get that apart. Nice thing about the early 518's is it only takes 1 switch for O/D, no other mods and you can use any 727 torque converter you want. Adam