Adam H P15 D30

Be careful using Lacquer over any Enamel paint. I would spray a Urethane clear over it. Adam

I pulled mine out of the stock master cylinder because of front disc brake drag. Didn't affect the 8" Ford rear drum brakes at all. Always a good firm pedal. Did it on the car, took about 20 minutes including bleeding the air out. Adam

It happens with these old thin wheels. I heard once radial tires go on, the flexing gets worse. My 49 wheels did this 6 months after radial tires went on. It was only paint but it shows the flexing, newer wheels were much thicker....

That setup works well with higher compression engines.

I see your log manifold is alive and well and still not installed on the Dodge. Get going

@casper50 Just a quick question, Is that you vacuum advance going to manifold vacuum? If so, how does it run? I have my HEMI plumbed that way because it's 11:1 and I have the timing backed way off so I need the vacuum advance at idle.

I've been following you thread

I really like the way the air filters came out so I hope I can use them. If not, I'll be talking to John Edge about other creative options

Just an update: I have been driving the car some and found an issue with a bog at full throttle, yesterday I noticed the was some smoke also. I've always heard how well these little webers ran right out of the box so the investigation started. I always noticed the bog since the manifold/carb change but I knew it just wasn't right. Earlier (page 1) I stated I had to siamese the Langdon air cleaners because I spaced the carbs a little closer together than I should have and as a result I might have an airflow problem. Pulled the air filters and went for a drive, no more bog and it ran even better. Looking closely at the air filters and covers I found the problem and I'm wondering if anyone else who purchased Langdon's air filters have come across the same issue? The covers have an inside diameter of 6 7/8 inches and the outside diameter of the provided element is 6 3/8 inches, which leaves about a 1/4 inch gap between the element and the cover effectively choking the incoming air. I can't believe this hasn't come up to Langdon as I am sure he sells a lot of these buttttt, I did modify his design which could've aggravated it. Langdon puts out excellent products so I think my modifications are the likely cause. The Fix I hope: I am going to find 5"-5.5" elements and trim the base plate to match. I will update when it is completed. Adam

I would go here first http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=224 he is very knowledgeable, also a member here (wayfarer) Adam

Glad to see them staying MoPar powered. Those frame swaps always seem to end up looking like, well... frame swaps.

Hello All, I edited my title so I can keep the same thread going. That said, the previous owner decided to epoxy prime the car black before he put it up for sale about 7 years or so ago. Needless to say I was tired of driving a fading, chalking, primered car after the first year but I pressed on. Also driving a black car gets kinda hot in the summer. In my previous post I was working on getting pops to paint it as I am not a good painter He wasn't too thrilled about the idea so we made a deal, I would wet sand all the old primer off and he would paint the roof and satin clear the entire car. I thought that was the cat's meow until I started wet sanding and wet sanding and wet sanding, you get the idea. After about 40 hours of wet sanding I found a decent older repaint with some obvious red oxide primered spots and some rust under the tail lights I needed to fix. What it used to look like: After A LOT of wet sanding: Bumper aprons were a lost cause with no origional paint to be found, also I had to find a similar green to cover the rust repair below the tailights. Rustoleum hunter green was pretty close so I shot the bumper aprons and the rust repair with that over some red oxide primer. Not a perfect match but it looks like an older grandpa repair.... Used Rustoleum Almond for the roof: Spent the money for a good 2 part automotive Urethane clear since this car never sees a garage and rarely even sees a driveway. A red oxide pin stripe to between the 2 colors to tie it all together? Finished product: I intend to paint the wheels either red oxide color or almond. Jury is still out but opinions welcome! Adam

Very nice job on the headers. Here's one I did for my 23" engine.

Hello, Several of my friends have used Clark's Machine Shop in Burlingame with top-notch results. I know they are NOT CHEAP but then again, nothing is cheap here is it? Adam

Thanks for filling in the blanks Rich. All I saw was an ask for recommendations for a brake upgrade, not a “should I or should I not” question. Sounds like you both have a plan. Having driven many cars from this era I agree the Lockheed brakes are the best as far as drums go, just a PITA, especially if you don’t have the special tools which I never had. Mine were always close but never just right and I think that’s the best someone can ask for without the special tools. Adam

He didn’t ask for opinions about upgrading. Besides Who wants to go through the “set up?” It’s a royal PITA and that’s if you can find the proper tool, let alone pay for it. Then there’s the periodic readjustment and they are still never as good as disc brakes. By the time you buy everything to rebuild the stock brakes, you could’ve bought discs and be better off. Especially in today’s traffic and drivers. OP. Try rustyhope, he’s a member of this forum. Also Scarebird or ECI might have what you need. Adam

Paul, I would take that car to Pleasanton in August for the Goodguys show. He'll sell it there if it's under 10 grand and it runs/drives. Adam

Several on this site have not been able to use the stock 15" wheels with the ECI kit. If you have 16" wheels, they should be fine. If you have 15" wheels and want to keep them, use the Rusty Hope kit.

Drive it!!!!

My Dodge would do that sometimes and also not latch sometimes. I removed, cleaned and lubed the latch up, adjusted the door with the latch out and it's worked flawlessly for a while now. Latch was pretty gooey inside.

If you plan to retain stock 15" wheels, use the Rustyhope kit. Mine went on effortlessly and works very well. Make sure to remove the check valve from the master cylinder and you're good to go... Adam

Here are a few more.... Happy reading Believe it or not, there was some discussion here and 1 more

FWIW, the wipers, and arms off my 47 Ford were a perfect fit on my 49 Dodge

Drill and tap it. I would do it without removing the head. It would take you longer to swap out the gauge and rig up an electrical one than drilling and retapping.

The Transgo is a good kit for the TF, especially with the restrictor for the direct clutches. What ratio intermediate lever are you running? Also, did you remove the accumulator spring? Does Transgo tell you to remove it? I've seen the forward bellville spring break because of removing and/or blocking up the accumulator. FWIW, Adam