Adam H P15 D30

Hello Harvie, The other end goes to a manifold vacuum source on the intake. Most stock intakes have a place for it to go, I made my own intake so I put a vacuum source into my plenum by design. Be advised, you may or may not need to mess with jetting as a PCV valve is essentially a metered vacuum leak. Here is the link I think Don is talking about but this is the factory system and will cost a few bucks more. Adam

I cut the factory draft tube off, turned it upside down, added an o-ring between it and the block, 1 grommet and pcv valve. Easy and it works well. Adam

I have to also agree with Don here. There just isn’t enough spring pressure or fast ramp on these old cams. 30k on my flathead and no flat cam. But it certainly can’t hurt to add zinc, just not needed. All my Hemis get it though, but that’s where it is needed. Don’t add too much zinc or it can do damage. Adam

I just removed the plug in the back of the master cylinder, removed the rubber check valve assy and discarded the rubber piece, reassembled. Some say you must have residual pressure valves added (2lb front, 10lb rear) I never added them and my brakes are great, never have a low pedal even after sitting for weeks. Took about 20 minutes unless you are going for a points correct restoration, I’d change to disc before I sunk a nickel into the old drums. Especially if you drive where there is any kind of traffic. Only made that mistake once. Adam

Is the 10-30 oil detergent? If so, better clean the pan out. Put a pcv valve in it instead of the road draft tube and that should help your crankcase smoking issue. Adam

Hello Jorge- GL4 is just fine, wish we could get it here. My trans grinds a little downshifting to second but it’s 70 years old so I put up with it but technically it shouldn’t. A mis adjusted or dragging clutch could also cause a grind but you would probably have issues with every gear. Probably a worn blocking ring on the 2-3 synchronizer. I also want to say that you did a beautiful job restoring that car. Be proud of your work! Adam

From the resources section here: Fluid Capacity Information Engine Oil 5 quarts Fuel Tank 17 Gallons Rear Axle 3-1/4 pints Transmission 2-3/4 pints 2nd and 3rd should be synchronized- Is your clutch adjusted correctly? Use GL1 - GL4 oil only, GL5 may damage your yellow metals (brass blocking rings). If someone has put GL5 oil in, Particularly older GL5, that might be the cause of your shifting issue. Some of the new GL5 oil is listed as yellow metal safe but I don't buy it. You could also have a worn synchronizer assy. I would try the correct oil first GL1-GL4, GL1 is sold at NAPA Adam

I say no, it won't change pedal height... My single master in my 49 with disc/drum is very high and solid, no residual pressure valves and the original check valve removed. I can't imagine it being any better with a master cylinder change unless you start messing with bore sizing but doing so you could end up with a very hard pedal. Adam

Possible problems I see in the picture above is 1.Painted metal patch (lower left) 2. Galvanized patch (lower right) 3. uncleaned metal (original floors) Seriously, clean everything with a 4" grinder and a 60 grit flapper wheel. Use clean steel patches also cleaned with the flapper wheel. Replacing all the floors will be MUCH harder, I've done both.... Adam

Search James Douglas here, he did extensive research and testing on FD couplings and posted some very informative results. Like suggested above, I changed my transmission oil but would never touch my FD coupling unless I had to and it works perfectly. Attempting to flush it would risk leaks after and there is almost nobody that can fix it. When you replace the transmission fluid, make sure to use a GL1-GL4 oil, NAPA sells GL1 by the gallon. GL5 could attack the yellow metals in older gearboxes. Adam

If it's been recently rebuilt, it would stand to reason the tube was replaced then. An easy way to tell is to check the temp at the rear of the head verses the front of the head. There will be a difference but it shouldn't be extreme. Mine is about ~10 degrees. Adam

You will have to rig up a 't' between the pump and carb, attach a pressure gauge and run it. I would check the float level first and set it a little (tiny bit) lower than spec because of the fuel we have now that tends to percolate after shut down. If you know Mikuni's the B&B is a walk in the park, just follow instructions and keep an eye on the check balls. If you end up replacing them, look at the Carter/Webers Tom Langdon sells on the Stovebolt 6 website. I am very happy with the driveability they provided me. Adam

You may or may not have worn throttle shafts but you definitely have one or more of the following: 1. the float setting too high 2. sunken float 3. cr@p in the needle and seat 4. fuel pressure too high What fuel pump are you running? Most electrics have too much fuel pressure (5-7psi) and I have seen some of the repop stock mechanical fuel pumps as high as 9psi, so may want to check. B&B's want about 3-4psi. As Torqczar stated, you do not have to meticulously synchronize multiple carbs on a manifold where they share a common plenum, but set the throttle openings and mixture screw base settings as close to the same as possible. For example if you lean one down, lean the other the same amount. Same goes for the throttle linkage and idle speed screw settings. If you have separate plenums, you need to synchronize them with the tool, it's just not as critical when running them on a common plenum. Adam

Also, a lot of times used factory parts are much better than offshore so called new parts. Adam

Yes it is an 11:1 Hemi, difficult to run on pump gas but not impossible. This is what I use on all the bolt holes that are not blind.

I agree on the round coil, I used a Pertronix 40kv coil I had from one of the many failed Pertronix modules I swapped out for someone, works good. I use manifold vacuum on my Hemi because I had to retard the timing a lot for pump gas and it gives back the advance at idle. I am thinking of switching my flathead to manifold vacuum also for more timing at idle. Anything above idle it works the same as ported vacuum. Adam

I'll take it! Lower it a bit and drive the snot out of it.... Probably put a HEMI in it too.

Dale, Running it for 30 minutes and retorquing should work well. I'm using a slant 6 distributor with a GM HEI module, I advanced mine until it pinged under high load, backed off until the ping was gone and went 2 degrees further retarded ending up at about 10 degrees initial, so Langdon isn't too far off. He knows his stuff so I would try it and load it down in high gear and see if it pings... His electronic distributor is top-notch. Just curious, what coil are you running or is it built into the distributor? When you say "full port" do you mean you have the vacuum advance attached to manifold vacuum? Adam

Yes he was. He always knew where everything was, and his old top hat.....

Good to hear the scrappers didn't get it

Check your block and head for flatness and chase all the bolt holes. I know it was just rebuilt but check anyway, they will probably be fine. Replace the head gasket, run it through a single heat cycle, then retorque (very important). Run through another heat cycle or 2 and retorque again. Shouldn't have an issue after. Make sure you advance the timing a little from specification, it will make it run cooler. Factory spec is ok if you are using 1950's fuel, fuel now days is different so give it a few degrees of initial advance. A 180 thermostat is fine since you have a little pressure in the system raising the boiling point. Adam

James, Since you live in the Bay Area (same as me) just go to Don's Antique Auto in Niles. He has EVERYTHING! He recently passed but I hear his kids are trying to keep it going.... Adam

First, did you retorque the head bolts after the initial run in? Second, my personal preference is to run a 160 thermostat unless you have a pressurized cooling system but 200 is not too hot just getting close. Adam

Hello 48p15, Really nice car you have there and I also like the wheel/tire combo. As a hot rodder myself I’ve always believed there only needs to be one perfect example of an original and the rest can be modified, that said it would bother my conscience to cut your car up but you only have to please yourself and everyone else can go you know where. BUT you came on this forum pretty hard almost like a troll, so the advice you get here might be limited. A lot of the guys you had some friction with are the hot rodders here. A couple of upgrades are Rusty Hope front disc brakes, the master cyl I’ll leave up to you. I kept the stock one with the check valve removed and my 49 stops great. Relocate the front shocks for a better ride, just do a search here to find many write ups. The 8.8 explorer will fit nicely, I have one in my 47 and they are tough. There was an old thread here where someone adapted a later GM power steering box even using the stock pitman arm, I hate rack and pinion steering so I would NEVER add it to an old car. Fatman sells dropped uprights but you have to modify your steering arms. Poise makes dropped super slide springs so you don’t have to run such a tall block in the back. Just an added tidbit and I really don’t want to set you off but I worked at Ford for 20 years mostly doing drivetrain stuff and I went through a lot of AOD, AODE, 4R70W and 4R75W transmissions and I’ll tell you straight up, they don’t even come close to a 727 in brute strength. Closer to a 904. The A500 and A518 overdrives are also light years stronger. Built lotsa those too. FWIW, Adam

The problem is if you actually drive your vehicle and that Pertronix craps out, and it will crap out. You are stuck until a replacement arrives. If you don't venture far from home by all means put one in. If you do, buy 2 and keep a spare.