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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. One of the best upgrades I did to my 49 was the rear axle, I guess I fought the brakes one too many times. When I finally needed a replacement drum, that sealed the deal. Plus I'll never have to fight them again, not to mention those Detroit joints on the driveshaft. I used an 8" Ford out of a Falcon and it was 1" narrower than stock. Fit fine and I am running 8" wheels on a lowered car with no rubbing. Below is the list I sent to Denny's Driveline and they shipped me a new driveshaft for around $400.00. That's pre-inflation prices though. You will need to "Flange" 2-2-349 to attach to the transmission output shaft. Unless you are using an 8" Ford, ignore the length and rear u joint. Here is the link for the slip joint and tube Denny's used: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9619_1310ss_3_spline_and_slip_driveshaft_3_inch_dom_tube_1310_sli.html
  2. Like I said, a lot of them showed up with the timing light when they were crapping out, I would try that first. Second would be taking a heat gun to the distributor and getting it good and hot, see if the problem shows up. EDIT: If it is the module, I wouldn't wait because "getting worse" might be dead on the road.
  3. Every one of them were installed with their respective coils and lasted a bit of time before they crapped out. About half of them you could see erratic timing with the timing light. Seems every one of my car friends were suckered into this "update" and ended up with a poor running engine sooner or later. They would change / rebuild carbs and fuel pumps refusing to suspect that module, then I would put points back in for them or do the slant 6 mod / GM HEI module to fix the issue. Even had one friend that put 2 new Pertronix modules in his vette before he gave up. Pertronix makes good coils though, haven't had to switch any of those out yet including on my 49 with a slant 6 distributor and a take off Pertronix coil. Before I moved, I used to have all the modules hanging on my wall of shame in the shop. Probably pulled about 20 of them over the last 10 years.
  4. A few of the Pertronix I have tossed acted similar to your symptoms and I've tossed plenty of them.... Junk
  5. Yes, it happens. Luckily it only took out the headlight harness and not the hood or radiator when it let loose. I trash every old fan I come across now. Went electric and never looked back.
  6. A 2004R is the same length as a TH350 short tail shaft. If you have a long tail shaft TH350, a 700 is really close. Should save you in the driveshaft department.
  7. I use old gas to light my burn pile in the spring time.
  8. Are you talking about the combination valve? Here is how I mounted mine on my 56 Panel. Never mind the brake fluid drip, I spilled topping the master cylinder off.
  9. Don't worry about it Martin. Sometimes any modification gets the purists' panties in a bunch. It seems they would rather see a car parked in a field instead of modified and on the road. I'll admit I do enjoy ruffling their feathers from time to time... I modify every old car I own. Remember, there only needs to be ONE perfect original example, the rest can be modified.
  10. More like an upgrade... When my fluid coupling gives out, this is exactly what I am going to do or (hold your breath) a T5 I'll be playing "One Piece At A Time" by Johnny Cash while I am using the gas axe.
  11. I wish I took a picture but what I did is cut the bottom 2/3 off the road draft tube, flipped it so it points up, put an off the shelf PCV rubber grommet in the tube and installed a common press in PCV valve. Easy-peasy
  12. @OUTFXD If you go the Mustang 2 route, buy from one of the reputable sellers (Fatman, TCI or the best is HEIDTS). The ones in Evilbay are from the Hoffman group and are absolute junk. The reputable manufactures will cost more but this is one of those areas you don't want to buy based on price. BTW, you will need to buy the frame stub for that above suspension, basically a clip job. Since you're doing a "clip" anyway, Dodge Dakota should be looked at.
  13. I used an early Falcon 8" but those are getting a little hard to find. 8.8 Fords are a good fit and plentiful 8.25 Mopar out of a Jeep 8.75 post 64 is supposed to be an almost bolt in In any case you will need a new driveshaft made, details about that are all over this forum. You'll be happier with modern u-joints anyway Any of these choices will get you better drum or disc brakes As far as being more difficult to swap the rear axle vs. regearing? I would have to disagree, it's easier to swap the rear axle than busting stubborn drums off.
  14. Did you apply WD40 when you were plastigaging? Been a while but I think the surface is supposed to be dry to get an accurate reading....
  15. Maybe it's the picture but those journals don't look great, I know you said they were polished... But they will probably be ok. What are the rod clearances?
  16. This ^^^^ Installed with NO issues
  17. Roof looks like it came off a Stude.
  18. You can see my vacuum reservoir right under the heater box. Came off a early 2000s F250 - 350 and has a built in check valve. The factory mounts worked perfect on the flat top of the inner fender. If you find a Diesel version, it has an electric vacuum pump too. Completely hidden when the heater duct is installed.
  19. A reversed eye spring will accomplish 1-2 inches without coming close to de-arcing. Try Posie Super Slides, they have the correct lowering spring. Not sure about shipping though. I used them on my 47 but no pictures. Also, when using lowered springs and/or blocks it is recommended to move the lower shock (damper) attachment to the bottom spring plate. This helps with the extreme angle your dampers are at and actually allows them to work. Your current spring pack would work well in an air-over-spring set up if you choose to go that route. Here is a stock spring pack with the bottom short leaf removed and a 2 inch lowering block. Springs are still not de-arced and are very worn out.
  20. I used a stock muffler off an early 2000s Mustang GT. Single 2.25 exhaust exiting in front of the right rear tire. May be a little louder than you're looking for, but if you run it out the back it will quiet it down some. Windows were down during these drives.
  21. I meant a good starting point would be at 4 degrees advanced. There are several methods to optimize initial through total timing but using specs from almost a century ago is leaving a lot on the table. Example 1: P15 Tune Up 1946 1947 1948 Notes: Plug Type* AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 Auto-Lite A7-AN7, Resistor AR-8. AC 45 or 45R is one step hotter than AC44 Plug Gap 0.028 0.028 0.028 Set Resistor Plugs At 0.035 Gap Ignition Timing TDC TDC TDC Even worse is example 2: D24 Tune Up 1946 1947 1948 Notes: Plug Type AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 Auto-Lite A7-AN7, Resistor AR-8. AC 45 or 45R is one step hotter than AC44 Plug Gap 0.025 0.025 0.025 Set Resistor Plugs At 0.035 Gap Ignition Timing 2 Deg. After TDC 2 Deg. After TDC 2 Deg. After TDC With our extreme undersquare engines, a lot of ignition advance is not needed due to the small bore, long TDC dwell time but our fuels burn much slower than a century ago so some advance is optimal. I think I ended up at 8 degrees initial and 28-30 degrees total mechanical advance using a slant 6 distributor. Your results will vary...
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