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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. Don’t forget the venerable 8” Ford. Early 65-66 mustang or 64 and up Falcon. Mavericks too but those get a little pricy. Sometimes you’re better off looking for modern drum brake rear axles, add discs to the front and it keeps the pedal effort down without a booster verses all discs.
  2. Anyone near the Bay Area going Sunday?
  3. When I changed over to Rustyhope’s disc brakes in front and Ford 10” drums in the rear, I noticed some drag on the front brakes. I removed the factory check valve in the master fully expecting to have to install external residual pressure valves but I tried it with none. Been running with no valves for a few years now with no issues. Stock master, disc fronts, modern 10” drums in rear. If an issue ever arises, I’ll install 2lb front and 10lb rear residual pressure valves.
  4. I’ve mentioned this before on other posts, but since you are going through the expense of custom pistons and you want to squeeze every bit of power reliably, I would look at using a longer rod out of a shorter stroke engine. There are a lot of benefits to doing so and the cost of the pistons should be the same. FWIW Adam
  5. I run a 3.0 ratio in my 49 with a 230 which was too tall with 28” tires, perfect with 26” tires. I’d go with the 3.55 if you’re keeping the taller tires. Adam
  6. James, Does your DeSoto frame have an X-member? One reason I went with the 200 in the 35 is because the 700 would've required major X-member surgery. I would avoid the 4L60 simply because of all the electronics, but that's personal reasons, just never needed or wanted all that "stuff." The tall OD in the 200 is why I would use 4.30 gears or lower. Plus you get the benefit of better get up and go for those SF hills.... Throttle pressure points (for downshifting out of OD) can be built into the 200/700 without using a computer by the builder. Your flathead doesn't make enough torque to bust a decently built 200 no matter how much you flog it. Thinking about this you might consider an A904 or TH350 and a set of 3.0 or 3.23 gears. You will have the torque multiplication that the fluid drive doesn't have, 1/2 the cost and a much smaller unit. Would move your beast out much better than the M6 . Just thinking out loud..... Adam
  7. Hello James, GM used the 2004R transmission in full sized Caddys back in the 80's so weight shouldn't be an issue. Also, the 200 has a fairly steep OD .67, so I would recommend 3.9-4.1 gears at a minimum, probably 4.3 depending on tire size. I don't care for the 700's low 3.06 first gear then a 1.62 second, that kind of RPM drop might be a little much for our low revving flatties. Another issue is the parasitic loss of the 700 is much higher than the 200. Our 35 Ford has a 2004R, 3.89 gears and 27" tall tires and the OD is pretty tall for the LS, if I were to do it again, I would've put 4.10's in the rear. I would also second the idea above for going to a A500 or 518 as it is a much better transmission in stock form to the GM's but they are a BIG BEAST and you would have to cut your floors to fit. For the 200, I went with Bowtie Overdrives out of LA, price was good, service excellent and they will build what you want / need, give them a call and talk to them. If you do go with the GM overdrive, setting the TV pressure is a must. I have the necessary gauges to do so and you live near me so let me know..... You can see in this picture how the A518/500 transmissions are big in all the wrong places. Adam
  8. Another Sunday drive after being gone for 2 weeks. It looked like this when we left, picture from dad following me. Looked like this a couple of hours later. All in all put about 100 miles on the cars yesterday.
  9. I tripped over my 3.91 rear axle for 2 years before I gave it away to the first taker. multiple posts for sale, multiple posts for free before I found a taker. Delivered it too... Adam
  10. Hello Oldtimelampshop, That's a good looking convert you have there, glad to see it's being saved and enjoyed as they are meant to be. Some suggestions below: 1. Champion makes a good radiator and the hose connections will be in the proper locations for your SBC. I would add an external plate type transmission cooler in front of the radiator. 2. You may have to do some inner fender panel work to clear the heads and exhaust. Also set the engine to the passenger side a little to clear the steering box, exhaust (headers or manifolds) will probably be a trial and error type situation but hey that's hotrodding... 3. I would look for an explorer 8.8 rear axle. Bolt pattern will be correct, many gear ratios, EZ to find parts, come in disc or drum brakes. Tape measure will be your guide. OR I used a Falcon 8" Ford RR in my 49 and it was a perfect fit but depending on the HP of the SBC, an 8" might be too light duty... I have used Denny's driveshaft for many hotrods and they have always been perfect. 4. Definitely go to disc brakes. I recommend Olddaddy's brake kit and he is a forum member here. Also excellent support with off the shelf parts. rustyhope.com 5. A SBC swap shouldn't be a mind boggling as some here would have you believe. You will have to cut out the existing transmission crossmember and fab a new one but that's easy. If we can stuff a SBC in a model A and keep the hood, this should be easy. If you run into length problems, the radiator can be mounted on the front side of the radiator support for a few inches. 6. Take your time and enjoy the journey. Problem solving is essential to a modified build, anyone can bolt together a stocker but it takes a real man to cut one up Good luck, enjoy the build for what it is and in the end you will have a car that anyone can jump in and drive, crafted with your own hands... Adam
  11. I can't speak for the owner, but I'll bet he changed to logo to keep this site active and relevant. Much the same as Goodguys and others keep extending the cut off years to their shows, they smelled death. Keep this stuff up and this forum will get as dead as the POC forum. I really don't remember the OP asking for anyone's approval for his choice. Since we have ALL successfully driven this thread completely off the rails, it will probably be locked and another future contributor will be gone. Now we can all go back to our usual and stale arguments, excellent job guys! Fresh minds / fresh ideas? not here....
  12. I think you and others have never read the logo for this site. Now you and others on this thread have successfully driven off a new forum member, it's a wonder this forum is still alive with posts like this. Perhaps you, and you know who you are here, should stay on the POC forum? Isn't that the zero tolerance place? If the guy wants to drop a SBC in it, that's his business. What isn't cool is some here just can't accept anything but stockers.... This site is for both!
  13. At least, depending on where you are. This was 8k in the Bay Area, CA
  14. I've always added .001 intake and .002 exhaust when I set them cold, sometimes a little more. The gaps close over time and also every time the engine heats up. Remember, "slappy valves are happy valves." I have been doing this for years and I have never set them hot, ever...
  15. Just cut the rivets off the spring plate on the top of the lower control arm, move it to the bottom of the control arm and bolt it back in place. I’d use grade 8 bolts. Gives you about 2 inches. Sorry, no pictures.
  16. Now’s the time to relocate that spring plate to get the car down a little
  17. If you are keeping the points, measure the resistance across the + and - posts of the coil and make sure your total primary resistance is correct. I believe it should be 3K ohms total in the primary circuit. So if your coil has 1.5k ohms primary resistance built into it, you need to add a 1.5k ohm resistor to the power wire to the coil. In all it should add up to 3k ohms or point life will suffer.
  18. My glass fuel filter on the pressure side fills with gas. Empties when the car sits for a week.
  19. Do your research carefully on the reliability of the Pertronix modules. Then make sure to order a spare to keep in the car so you are not stuck somewhere when it does crap out.
  20. It only takes one time to make a believer. And yes, as stated above fatigue around the rivets.
  21. Don't use a 70 year old fan.... EVER. Get rid of it and get a new one / save your hood, radiator, life... Ask me how I know. They should all be wall hangers
  22. Been using my 6v starter on 12v for years with no issues.
  23. My experience is a bit different. Dual Webers, shorty headers into a single 2.25 exhaust made a noticeable difference with no internal engine mods.
  24. If you’re going to swap a V8, put a Mopar V8 in it and leave the SBC’s for the belly-button cars
  25. Will you be driving up to the Half Moon Bay show in April? Hope to see you there
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