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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. NAPA has the male prong switches but I don't know the application. Pressure settings should be compatible no matter what switch is used.
  2. Thank you Keith, saw your video here and on FB. You really have that car tuned well. My 49 always takes 10 or so seconds of cranking after sitting for a couple of weeks, the fuel drains all the way back to the tank. Might look at a fuel pump replacement after watching your video? Just for clarification, you did use your priming pump in this video? Maybe my fuel pump is fine...
  3. Buy 2 Ignitors so when it fails unexpectedly, you have a spare to get you home. It will let you down so prepare....
  4. Curious if you have a video of a cold start after sitting a few weeks?
  5. Love driving mine at night because of this ^^^^^ view
  6. Yes, my 49 also had a small drain plug. Lots of scraping on the the housing to find it but it's there.
  7. Here it is guys and gals.... I'm not cutting my brand new driveshaft. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/d/menlo-park-chrysler-dodge-hemi-c/7203882881.html
  8. I found an R10 locally for $400.00, it's listed as a "core" but is complete. Now that I'm thinking about it, I might just pick it up.... BTW, $400.00 is a really good price!
  9. What I would do: Get a catalog Use the 230 crank Use the 218 rods Find a modern piston with an acceptable bore size and correct height for your crank/rod combo Balance the assembly Pros are - longer rod, modern piston design, modern ring pack
  10. Try Sanderson Headers, they should have what you need
  11. The factory wheels that came off my Dodge pictured earlier were 15X4.5 FWIW
  12. Might want to try a propane torch first, heat it up and the grease may just run out but be careful. I've freed up king pins with a propane torch.
  13. If you are going to aftermarket wheels, up to 15X7 fit nicely and easier to find tires too. Here's 15X7 front and 15X8 rear but the rear axle is 1" narrower than stock.
  14. Maybe try it without welting, probably look much smoother...
  15. I've had to pull mine apart and clean all the old, rock hard grease out first when my clutch pedal was sticky.
  16. OEMs use fuses or fuse links to protect the vehicle electronics. Size the charge wire from the alternator to the battery according to the max output of the alternator, just like the OEMs do. Same philosophy as not running 12v battery cables on a 6v car.
  17. A dead battery and a jump start would easily overwhelm the amp gauge. A shorted cell in the battery also. If someone wants to add a fuse or fusible link, great. You don't want that to be the wire = FIRE. My 60a alternator would peg the amp meter after a long crank (sitting), glad it wasn't a 100a alternator. I dumped the ammeter and replaced with volt gauge, but it never failed. Ammeter should be ok with a 60a alternator, you'll know pretty quick if it isn't up to the task....
  18. The only disadvantage to a higher amp alternator is hearing your amp gauge pop if you try to run a 100 amps through it. Hopefully it will just be a pop and not a fire. Make sure your primary wire from the alternator is rated for 100a.
  19. Personal opinion... No matter how ugly a car is I believe in two things when it comes to old cars. 1. Clean, nice wheels 2. Clean windows The only things overdone in our world is the 32 Ford and the small block Chevy
  20. Just a thought, is the pilot bushing depth different also? Does it matter?
  21. For that price, I would buy the flywheel too if available.
  22. If you don't have any luck finding a 230 flywheel (non FD) you can make a spacer at home with a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, a band saw or jig saw, drill and a sharpie. Will probably need longer dowel pins but it doesn't have to be machine shop precise, it's a spacer not an adapter. Is there a tooth count difference between the 2 ring gears? Not sure....
  23. I would leave the bell housing where it is and move the engine forward 1/4 inch
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