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Adam H P15 D30

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Adam H P15 D30 last won the day on May 1

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About Adam H P15 D30

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    SF Bay Area
  • My Project Cars
    Too Many

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  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area, Kalifornia
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorcycles, Boats etc.

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  • Occupation
    Ford

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  1. Adam H P15 D30

    My Scarebird Kit install and a few ? 1948 Dodge

    When I removed it 4 years ago I fully expected to be forced to install residual pressure valves, but I decided to give it a try..... That was 4 years ago and I have never had to pump the brakes to get a pedal, even after sitting for months. I have left them out on other cars and had problems with low master cylinders. Maybe a magic master cylinder? Adam
  2. Adam H P15 D30

    My Scarebird Kit install and a few ? 1948 Dodge

    I always thought this too. In fact my other hot rods all have the residuals front and back with a modern master cylinder. For some reason the stock master cylinder doesn't need them, at least mine has never exhibited symptoms of needing them.
  3. Adam H P15 D30

    My Scarebird Kit install and a few ? 1948 Dodge

    Remove the internal check valve and drive...
  4. Adam H P15 D30

    676337 head

    There was a thread on here a while back where someone CC'd a few heads from 201-230 engines. I think the intent of the thread was to determine some sort of unsurfaced base line but there were notable differences in the combustion chamber CC's. I did a quick search and couldn't find it but there are differences. I THINK the late 30's 201 heads had the smallest CC but not sure... Adam
  5. Adam H P15 D30

    P24 Timing

    Run the timing up till it pings under high load, back off until ping goes away, back off another 2 degrees. That should get you super close as long as it starts well. If is doesn't start well (too advanced) back off accordingly. Specs from 60+ years ago should only be used as a baseline, fuel has changes A LOT since especially octane ratings and burn rates. Set it to where the engine is happiest and who cares what the actual number is. Adam
  6. Adam H P15 D30

    1939 business coupe build

    Those shock mounts will fatigue and oil can the floor in short order. Better to use a frame mount. Adam
  7. Adam H P15 D30

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I'm sure you will get a lot of advice and "what I would do" so this will be mine.... If you're good with a tape measure, carpenter's square and protractor. If the original frame is as good as it looks, clip it with the Dakota front end, install the springs and rear axle in the back, leave the rest of the Dakota frame for the scrappers. Much easier and the end result might look a little better.
  8. Adam H P15 D30

    Electric cooling fans

    Since I converted to 12 volts years ago, I gutted the old voltage regulator and added the fan relay in there (along with 2 others).
  9. Adam H P15 D30

    Electric cooling fans

    I put a 'T' in my heater hose connection. There is always flow through a 5/16 line warming the intake.
  10. Adam H P15 D30

    Electric cooling fans

    Mine kicks on at 185 off at 175. Many temps available though.
  11. Adam H P15 D30

    Electric cooling fans

    Old thread but I'll bite.... This is all you need plus a relay. Very reliable as almost all manufactures use them.
  12. Adam H P15 D30

    52 meadowbrook ?

    Try these people for your windshield. http://www.streetrodglass.com/classic_car_windshields_truck_auto.jsp Adam
  13. Adam H P15 D30

    Scarebird owners? Need help with MC valve ID please

    I removed the rubber flap from the sheet metal disk you’re holding. Put the metal part back in and reassemble. Adam
  14. Adam H P15 D30

    Transmission Advice

    It's a BIIIIGGGGG transmission, so cut your floors accordingly.
  15. Adam H P15 D30

    Transmission Advice

    Mine was from a 91 or 92 Dakota 318 V8. The reason I suggest Quality Engineered Components for the adapter is my torque converter bolts were a pain in the a$$ with the Wilcap, much easier with QEC one, plus he can answer any HEMI questions you may have. http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/ With your 276 HEMI, you do not have to do the internal mods I chose to do. I've been building transmissions for 25+ years so I can't leave them alone, lol. If you end up with a 2 wire A518 with lock up converter, that's perfectly fine. Several aftermarket places make very very simple kits for the lock up function. Adam EDIT: With a 276, I would also be on the lookout for an A500 O/D. Basically the 904 version instead of the 727 version the 518 is and smaller sized. It should handle anything your 276 will put out. Just make sure you get the correct bellhousing. These transmissions come with a .69 overdrive, so unless you're running short tires, I'd up the gear ratio to at the very least 3.73+ 1 more EDIT. Check your torque converter bolt circle. Make sure it matches the flexplate bolt circle, Ma Mopar had 2 bolt patterns for the torque converters.
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