Adam H P15 D30

Members
  • Content count

    354
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Adam H P15 D30

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    SF Bay Area

Converted

  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area, Kalifornia
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorcycles, Boats etc.

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Ford

Recent Profile Visitors

269 profile views
  1. I doubt it. A well done hotrod/streetrod almost always brings more money. On the other hand it usually takes more money to build one, but as far as value goes the modified crowd almost always wins. My thinking does not include ratrods and craprods.
  2. Being that the 218 has a shorter stroke, I would think the rods are longer
  3. Agreed, Make sure this is a project you can and are willing to see through. I've gotten a few projects for pennies because someone bit off more than they could chew. It's nothing like the TV shows make it out to be, lol. That said, my biggest concern would be the left exhaust manifold and stock steering, don't be afraid to offset the engine to the passenger side an inch or 2, Ma Mopar did it for years. I had to offset my HEMI an inch just to clear the steering shaft.
  4. Thinking about this off and on for a couple of years, I would like to try, or at least mock up a 230 crank and 218 rods, then measure for custom pistons with any CR I like (within reason). Couple of reasons: 1. I've heard the pistons on either engine don't go to the top of the deck, so either grinding the deck or custom pistons anyway 2. benefits of a longer rod 3. benefits of a shorter, lighter piston, higher piston pin 4. custom pistons aren't that expensive now and are light years ahead of the stock 4 ring pistons, especially with the higher piston speeds of a long stroke engine If building a little more power is what you have in mind and are rebuilding one anyhow, why not? If you squeeze the head down too far trying to raise compression, you will kill what little flow these engines have... Oh, and the 49 Dodge PROBABLY won't have the internal bypass, so either head should work.
  5. Getting around the stock steering is the hard part, but I would expect a little firewall work. FWIW, I'd do it in a second, you're probably never going to want to go back to stock anyway. Who would?
  6. Exactly, my 49 has the key lock on the passenger side only. My 47 has it on both doors, explain that one???? Adam
  7. Silver is the correct color. Since you are converting I would just go with the alternator of your choice but the generator can be converted and a later regulator installed. If you really have money burning a hole in your pocket you could call Power Gen and get their alternator that looks like a generator. The HAMB had an article a while back about people putting small foreign alternators in the OE generator cases. Either way, several choices. I just ran a GM 12v alternator on mine and fabbed a bracket that used the original gen mount, easy peasy. Adam
  8. Sometimes a pilot bushing will cause the trans to pop out of gear.....
  9. Though I don't have the answer you're looking for, I would measure the shaft and spline count as a start. How bad is the steering wheel? A lot of help here and on the HAMB regarding restoration of these old wheels. Adam
  10. See, that's the difference. I'll bet a well maintained drum system would not stop as well as a disc system that hasn't been looked at for 20k miles the first hard stop. I'm not even going to talk about the second, third or fourth hard stop in a row. I don't have the data except for every car manufacturer (ok maybe there is one left in some corner of the planet) moving away from front drum brakes. Their engineers probably have loads of data for you. Now let's compare apples to apples.... Drive a drum braked car for 10k miles and do nothing to the brakes, then drive a disc braked car 10k miles and do nothing to the brakes. Repeat stopping test. This is more of a real world test. Adam
  11. Unfortunately "decent" brakes don't cut it where I live. I drive 5-7 thousand miles per year in the worst traffic in the US at 70 MPH, brakes need to be top notch always, not just after each adjustment. I guess geographical location plays a big part when choosing disc brakes or not.
  12. For some reason looking for "free and cheap" brake parts doesn't seem like the best idea to me????
  13. I ran drums up front for many years and I learned a thing or two: Properly set up drum brakes that are not too hot and perfectly adjusted are ALMOST as good as disc brakes, but that's where it ends. Problem is that drum brakes don't always stay at their best, heat and wear start diminishing performance right away. Disc brakes are almost always perfectly adjusted and at their peak. I had enough close calls where I live that upgrading to front discs was a no brainer Adam
  14. All the more reason to stick with a cooler t-stat. Without some radiator work and at least a 7psi cap to raise the boiling point, why push it? I really wonder how much effect on oil temp 20 degrees of coolant temp has? I don't think is equal. We use detergent oil now 90% of us change it long before 3k miles If we really cared about keeping these engines clean we would be installing more PCV valves Seriously though, engines do run better when they are warmer, more so with fuel injected engines than carbed engines. Another issue with a hotter running engine is fuel boiling out of the carb, increasing under hood temps only makes this worse. This is a known issue. Different opinions here, do what works for you.
  15. Then put a pressure cap on it too...