jmooner3

Guys - I've read a bunch of good info on the wiper motors but I'm confused what is wrong with mine. Got it cleaned up and working. The motor runs continuously regardless of switch position. I have the three wire (plus power feed) two speed switch. The contacts on the motor do open for the "park" circuit. Not sure what the electrical function should be in the motor or the switch. If anyone has one to check or knows I'd appreciate the tip. Not sure which one to chase at this point. First the switch ohming across the pwr feed to each the Green, Red, and black wires shows me this: Hot to Green : full clock wise- 0 ohm, Mid position-0ohm, full counter clock- open Hot to Red :full clock wise- Open, Mid position-0 ohm, full counter clock- open = provides low speed? Hot to Black : all 0 ohms...should hot to black go open at full cc position to shut down or park? As for the motor itself resistance across connections internally: Green to black short Red to green short with park contacts closed and 1.5 ohms with contacts open Red to black 1.6 ohms with park contacts open or closed Any help or suggestions welcome. Thank you!

The "park" action looks to come from the cam on the one side of the gear - cam is in place as is the pin. The contacts physically open - need to open it up again to see if contact electrically opens when traveling. Does anyone know if there are connections close together that I may have bridged with solder when I replaced the wires? Any info welcome!

OK I have the wiper motor and linkage dissassembled, reassembled, freshe grease, new wires soldered into to motor but my question is the switch. It is a 3 wire (two speed) Black, Green, Red and the 6v pwr. I switched out the red for white because that's what I had, but I think I have it all wired as it was. Question 1 - what sould the switch do. I assumed it would be off (all the way counterclockwise) and low (in middle position), and "high" (all the way to right). Problem is there is no off. Far right is high, middle is slow, and left is slow (no change)... It just rotates and rotates... Question 2 - how does the breaker work? is this part of the "off" sequence or was it for overcuent. Thre is a bullet connector for the pwr and a small hole on another tab is there supposed to be sounething mounted there? Thanks

Hey guys, I pulled a rusted mess of wiper motor and pivots out of my 49 today. I've searched and found a bunch of good info here with respect to getting it cleaned up and functional. One question, I grabbed the attached discussion because it has a picture of two switches. I have the switch, with no knob or retaining nut.. It was hanging under the dash. Looks like there are 3 wires plus one that bullets into that big tab (at about 4 o'clock in the attached pic of the two switches). Is that a fuse or contact of some sort? Obviusly the switch goes up though the hole but what is that tab for? Does the linkage ride in there? Not sure if I'll need other parts yet but I will need knob and retaining nut and one mounting screw for the exterior bezel. Trade or cash to Vermont 05452.

Thanks Merle! It's a 3speed I think...soo could be the original? There is no sheet steel or boot where it went through the floor. Does anyone have one for sale or know a source? The tranny is just a little fella. Noticed it's leaking oil as it lays on it's side in my garage. Obviously not the way it will sit in the truck. Should I be concerned about seals or once it's upright its OK. Also the Ebrake got oil soaked can I clean it up with brakeKleen or is the band shot?

Ha! again you guys come through with the answers! There is not currently a heater in this truck but there is firewall swiss cheese where it once was and I have a heater in my parts truck. Anyone have controls they want to sell? Another observation I make from your interior pics (thanks for sharing)is your trucks all have the long shift lever with a bend. When I got this truck it had what turns out to be a seized desoto 25" motor. The tranny was a 3spd on the floor with the same Ebrake as in your pics but the lever is straight not bent? Wonder if it's a car tranny?

Anyone know what the holes above the gauges in the picture might be for? I've looked at a bunch of members pictures of their dashes and havent seen holes here. Unless there is some rare option I'm missing from this 49 B1B, I'm guessing the previous owner mounted something there and I should fill em.

Guys - I certainly appreciate the advice, there is a wealth of knowledge here on this forum and I have learned a bunch so far. Body work and paint seems like yet another art...Plenty of right ways to do it. I've only ever done a little. Rockers and fenders on 10year old cars. The times I have patched with bondo clearly I didn't prep right (not sure what to do) because within a year it was cracking and rust must have started underneath. Got a welder for christmas last year, welded in a couple patches on fenders, used filler, sanded, then primed and painted and they came out awesome. Paint color was a little off but smooth and still looks good. Again I appreciate all of your input, all is good advice. Advice is free right? and people will choose what they want from it no disrespect. After you weld in a patch and grind it close to the right shape. How do you seal it and, what do you use to fill it? Thanks!

Thanks guys. I figured anything worth doing is worth doing right! I may put all the pieces back together again as is for now and live with it while I get the motor installed and wiring, brakes etc. I gotta get it driving so I can feel a sense of accomlishement, More importantly I don't want to have my 12 year old helper lose interest. Maybe backwards fenders will catch on, or maybe I just need to get a good solid reverse gear and mirrors like "Mater":rolleyes:

Guys - I just pulled my 49 B1B out of the weeds to pressure wash (yeah washing cars in my driveway in February - not a normal Vermont winter thing to do). Got the grime off, noticed several spots where the previous owner's bondo is cracking and some just popping off... Bad passenger fender, front piece behind grill and headlight hole is a mess. My plan was never to have a show truck, just a driver. Can I grind out the loose stuff and refill with success or should I get all the plastic out and get to bare metal before re-bondoing? Also note the rear fender in the pic, I'm guesing these are on backwards? Looks like there are two holes that were filled in the quared off part aft, that would line up nicely with the running boards if facing forward?

Thanks Bradley Just ordered a pack of each I think one was 25 count and one 50 count. but figured 25 is more than what I'll need. Bill was around $18. Thanks for the info.

thanks!

What oil pressure should I be registering?

Thanks Ed.

Anyone have a source for the floor bolts and clip/fastener nuts? Or willing to sell some. I have about half that are usable the others are rotten away.

Guys - 1. What weight oil are you running in your trucks? I'm in Vermont but don't plan to run in winter. I thought I had seen a previous discussion but couldn't find in search. Manual says run SAE 30 over 32 degrees... Probably some better slick juice today then back in the day. Is anyone running 10 W 30 or 40? 2. I pulled the oil pan, cleaned out the sludge, painted etc, I noticed I have one oil pan bolt that is different (shorter) than the others? Is it stock and need to go in a specific hole or just someone lost one and used a different one? I've got a 1 in 20 chance of getting the right hole.

Thanks Merle - yep the 50 B2D is the column 3 speed. The 49 B1B was a floor shift 3 sp with a desoto motor in it when I got it. The desoto was siezed so I found the donar 50 B2D. I'm thinking I would prefer the 49 B1B...but the motor from the 50 is the runner (I think this fits no sweat) the tranny is the question. I have the floor 3sp that was mated to the Desoto and the column 3sp that is mated to the 50 motor. Sounds like if I chose to go column shift the steering box in the 50 won't bolt up in the 49 without frankinstining the two as the linkage for the 3 speed column is brazed onto the 50 column. I should have time to play with the two trucks next week and eyeball if the bolt pattern and length of trannys are same. If they are, sounds like the floor shift gets me up and running the easiest. I still need to do the running gear and brakes on the 49. Not sure what I need yet - anyone with spare brake parts or sources for wheel cyl and linings?

Thanks. Clear as vermont mud season which lasts almost from Winter end to winter start:) If I want to go with the 50's motor and tranny, the easy route and probably best reliability route will be to find a 48/49 3 speed column linkage. Will the original drive shaft that was into the floor three speed still work in the 50 tranny? And as a fall back will the original 3 speed 49 floor shift bolt up to the 50 motor? Come to think of it the motor I pulled that had the 3 speed floor shift was a desoto 1950 (I still have the block and head if someone needs it, #6 cyl is rough, it's a 25"block). Hmmm will the tranny that was mated to the desoto work with the 1950 dodge 230? If not I may not have an option and be forced to make the column shift work - that'd please the boy. Thanks J

So it sounds like the parking brake is straight forward, measure and punch a hole in the right spot, however sounds like there may be problems with the trans and steering box. Thanks Merle The motor is from the 50 1ton and is going into the 49 1/2 ton - The trans from the 50 (3sp on column) may not go into the 49 1/2 because the steering box won't bolt up? I may have to go with the 230 ci from the 50, mated to the 3 speed floor shift from the 1/2 ton- but those may not play nice together either... Bryan thanks for all the info -you state that "the '49 1/2t 3spd w/o fluid drive is an entity unto itself and matches up with '50-'53 1/2 and 3/4ton only not the 1ton" ... What is the limiting factor that won't let it match with the 1ton? I think that means that the floor 3 speed wont match up to the engine and the linkage to the coulmn tranny that is on the motor now wont fit because the steering box won't bolt into the 49? I got the steering column out of the 49 just need to go get it and put it side by side with the 50 to see if they bolt different. Seems to me the 49 had a bracket bolted to the box and then the bracket bolted to the frame. can't remember. If memory servs, the 50 bolts right up to the frame. I'm open to suggestions before I make more work for myself. J

Guys - has anyone put a 1950 3 speed column shift in a 49 cab? My boy and I are putting together a 1949 1/2 ton using some parts from a 50 1 ton. We are putting the 50's 230 motor in the 49, we see the ebrake is different and the shift assembly is brazed onto the stearing column. (looks like a repair) but the shift goes with the column on this one. My son asked if we can put the 3 speed column shift in the 49 "because it's cool dad"... Curious how much work I'd be getting into for "cool". As I have the floor 3 speed that was in the 49 originaly and looks like it will bolt right up. Will the column tranny and linkage fit? Best way to get column and shift linkage out and both into the 49? Motor instal with or without steering box? Which one goes in first? Anyone modified the 49 to fit the 50 firewall ebrake handle? Any hidden issues I should look out for? Also will the 50 windshield wipers (vacuum) fit the 49? Thanks J

I have a 2001 Yukon 5.3 that pulled mine on a tandem trailer no problem at all. It was my 50 1 ton, 9' box was not on the truck nor was the front sheet metal but all the rest was intact. The truck can't weigh any more than 3K... I pull a 6000# boat with the same rig and the truck was definitely lighter. The trailer that you use will make the difference... Does the trailer have surge or electric brakes? How you load the truck will change how it trailers too. There are formulas for figuring out the right tongue weight, I think it is a percentage of the total weight... How you load the truck on the trailer will set up your tongue weight. I shuffled the truck back and forth till the rear spring "squat" in my yukon looked right. If you are going a long haul, it's worth a thorough check of the trailer, bearings good, tires good, etc. Avoid any issues en'route. Good luck and happy hauling.

Do a search on armrest here on the forum, MMcKinney found one that appears to fit our trucks.

Awesome! Nice piece of work fitting your new rad- I like the look of aluminum.

Hey Dan - I haven't tried to fit it into the truck as I was just looking for temp solution to run the engine with no sheet metal. I'll grab some pix and a measurement when I get back out to the truck. I have a flip video of it, I can't send it via the forum. If you shoot me an email at JMOONER3@YAHOO.COM I'll kick it over to you so you can see if the rad might be something you can work with.

We've got a thin blanket of the white stuff, ski areas are open.