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jmooner3

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Everything posted by jmooner3

  1. Weasel - did you get it done? If not, don't sweat it. I have a 49 B1. The three speed is not that heavy. pull off the one floor pan over the shifter, disconnect the drive shaft at the differential and pull it out of the trans yoke. Youll need to disconnect the speedo cable from the trans too. Four bolts and the trans should slide back and out, you can get the bolts from in the cab and lower mine to the floor by the shifter lever. Then just pulled it out from under the truck, pretty simple process. Good luck
  2. There is a great thread here with the solution you are looking for - it's from Mr. Merle Coggins... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=19822&highlight=seat+belt
  3. Agree with pull the plugs and pour in your favorite anti-seize. I used Kroil on mine, I think if you search you can find a thread I had years ago as I chased a stuck motor on my 49. wonder with me on my findings... Mine was a #6 stuck solid with rust due to water in the cylinder. I ended up pulling the head (really easy on a flathead) and voila my problem was plainly in front of me. I filled the cyl with kroil (others use Kero, ATF, etc.) I eventually pulled the oil pan and pulled rods to pound the offending piston up from under the truck. Once I got it moving, I turned the motor with socket and breaker bar (different set up than the pulley bolt in your pic) once it was moving it was easy to see I also had two stuck valves... It was a good learning experience for me, hope yours goes smooth!
  4. Thanks guys! Don't mean to hijack a good post but maybe there's others needing to know next steps too...Now I just need to roll the 50 parts truck through the snow to the pole barn to pull that engine. Yea we got some snow up here in VT. Happy Thanksgiving ;-). Merle, whats the right approach to pull the engine. I was thinking pull the drive shaft, unbolt the trans, take the two bolts out at front engine mount bracket at frame and the two top bolts from back mounts so the engine and pedals come out as one...That's how I pulled the original from the 49 years ago - memory is not what it used to be... Are there any other tricks to be aware of?
  5. Hey guys, sounds like you're the tranny guys I need to talk to- just for clarity I have a 49 B1B that had a bad desoto motor in it, since pulled it and got a 50 B1D parts truck. I was told the 50 three on the tree will not fit in the 49 because the fire wall is different. I see the 50 1Ton's column mount uses a thru fire wall ebrake and the 49 1/2 ton had a floor shift 3 speed and thru floor ebrake integrated to the trans... I'm fine with either tranny, seems the three speed floor trans that was in the 49 would be easiest (no firewall welding)...the question is will the floor shift that was on the B1B engine mate up to the 230 from the 1 ton? I was thinking I would pull the 50 pedals and all and drop it in the 49. If the 3 speed mates I'd just toss that in. If all that makes sense, will the drive shaft fit or will I need to shorten it? Thanks!!! Jay
  6. Vice grips locked onto the hook part of spring as close to the coil as possible. Two hands on the grips and one move to streatch spring and un hook. reverse to reinstall. It works fine, done it that way for years, never knew there was a tool to make it easier.
  7. Thanks ken, I sent you a PM.
  8. One more input..I just pulled my rear drums from a 49 b1b with a rental puller from Autozone. It's actually a FWD hub puller I think it was <$30 buy same to rent. It did bend one each of lugs as the hole pattern is not perfect. I think you could eaisily machine the mating surface and make it flat so as not to bugger lugnuts. It has a 3/4" hex head nut on the center tensioner, I put my air hammer to it and bam! Thanks to the sound advice from the forum I did have the axel nuts loose but in place. The pass side came off pretty good, the drivers I hit with the air hammer and had to go to a breaker bar with 3"pipe assist pretty good bam but I'm into the brakes.
  9. Hank - The greatest thing about this forum - is we all help each other through the discussion! Picture worth a 1000 words - I have mine set up just like your picture, and the damn springs are in contact with the cast housing where the little capilary line hooks the devorced cylinders together...I need to go back out to the shop tighten everything up to ensure I'm not missing something...but the aftermarket wheel cyl looks to be different than the OEM. As for the fronts I believe there is a washer between the backing plate and the shoe then the felt & cap then the clip. The washers behind the shoe have a little taper inside the hole, like a chamfered edge. THANKS for the picture of the rear- where did you get your wheel cylinders? Anyone else experieince issues with aftermarket wheel cylinders contacting the springs?
  10. Hey Guys - I started reassembly of the rear brakes on the 49 1/2 ton today... I didn't take pictures as I usually do prior to dissassembly, because it seemed pretty straight forward and there is a picture in my manual. These are the divorced wheel cylinder set up(2 per wheel). The ony thing different is the new cylinders I bought, problem I have may be from parts?… Has anyone had issues with the springs not fitting back in? I’ve got the cam pivot bolts in, cyls in, the shoes in, 3/16 line in, but the two springs that pull the shoes together are hitting the cast housing of the new cylinders. Am I missing something? These brake cyl parts are from Roberts anyone else use them successfully? I was just thinking, I may try and mount the spring on the inside/backside of shoe. Pictures or advice welcome.
  11. Would love to go disc but stock is what my poketbook can afford right now I had most of the parts already from my parts truck. Just needed a couple. Got the back drums off today using a front wheel drive puller from local autozone shop(Puller was $25 bucks and I can return it if I want to call it a rental. The flanges on the puller were a little off from mating up and on angle, I used it any way with an impact wrench and pop. Feels like I bent a lug on each side so I'll be looking for a couple spares both RH thread and LH thread -anyone got some to sell? I think with a little work the puller could be made to fit our trucks and not bugger up lugs. When I reinstall the drum, what's the procedure? Do I need to pull the key and re-seat it or leave it as is and just slide the drum hub on the spindle? Thx
  12. Ordered wheel cyl, hoses, etc from Roberts. VPW has the cam bolts, spacers and washers but they were the wrong size for the 1/2 ton 10" . If I can't find a source for the felt washers, spacers etc (3/4 inch) I may just use brass or stainless washers. Anyone have thoughts on this?
  13. Thx guys - The pictures solved the mystery, I have the B1 truck manual and there is no detail like what you guys provided. My truck didn't have the spacer or the right washers. VPW has all three available for 11" wheels. Hope they are the same size.
  14. Looking for some more insight on the brake shoe anchor bolt set up for the front of B1B. Still need to know what surface faces out and what parts I need. VPW lists an oil washer, washer retainer, and spacer...for 11" I believe ours are 10" the set up on mine looks like it had a metal cup(washer retainer) and the felt washer no spacer. Questions: Do I need 3 parts? Which way does felt side face Another shout out if anyone has washers in good shape, cam bolts, oil washers, clips etc. from a disk brake conversion - I'm interested. I'm going to buy some parts anyway and cant find all parts from one place. VPW Felt oil washer 12:859054 Anchor bolt washer retainer 12:567129 Spacer 12:622121
  15. GG and Marbles, thanks for the links. MB - Good idea on the air hammer, I torched the bolts red and hit them with little thumper while turning - popped right out. JB Thanks for taking the time to look at your parts trucks and consulting resources. The felt washers that go behind the shoe at the pivot cam appear to have metal on one side and were installed differently across the 4 locations, 2 were felt out two were metal out. Can someone confirm which way they are supposed to go?
  16. Thanks guys - Can anyone tell me if the front brake wheel cylinders are the same for a 1 ton and half ton? I know the rears are different on the 1/2 ton. But I had a bunch of parts that came with my parts truck (50 1 ton) I put together all the brakes and got the parts truck running and driving because it was easy. My son and I are now back to the 1/2 ton. (In spring we'll move the motor etc. to the 1/2 ton) If the wheel cyls are the same I'll pull them and put them on the 49 half ton. Just need to get the brake shoe anchor bolts freed up and working properly- drenched in PB a couple days ago and will hit it with my air hammer today...Thanks for your help.
  17. Hey Guys - I've been away from my project for a while, it's crazy weather here in VT too much ice to ski so I'm in the shop. Brake job on 1949 1/2 ton I know I had seen some good posts on this and searched but other than the tech page I really didn't find anytining on it. I have not located the right puller for the rear yet but the fronts aren't a walk in the park either. I pulled the drums, pulled the shoes and the rusted up cyls and tried to move the cam adjusters at the bottom, one is not seated all the way to the shoulder and neither will budge on either side am I missing someting? I backed off the castle nuts and pulled the two backing bolts so it's the backing plate is free wheeling. One of the shorter cam nuts looks stripped and so is the castle nut. I haven't hit it with the hot wrench yet but suspect that will free it up. Looks like these cams are also the bolt that holds on the steering linkage? I know many of you have converted with the rusty hope kit and eventually I would probably go disc but I've already got new shoes for front and will keep her stock for now. Anyone got a bucket of spare front 1/2 ton parts you want to sell a cam bolt or two out of? I'll need a source for wheel cyl, felt washers for behind shoe, and clips too. could use a couple spare lugs too. Any input on freeing up the cam bolts welcome. Thanks !
  18. Thanks that's a great idea. All the glass is in my cab but I'm thinking I may use a similar jig, chainfall and tree...? Or I may just cut out the "cheesy" parts of the floor and see if I can make it right from the top. J
  19. Great job! Thanks for sharing. That does give me some ideas. The 49 looks like it has a u channeled piece that runs front to back under the floor and the layers of metal floor front and aft come together over the bolt hole. I'm trying to get the cab off so I can see the underside.
  20. Anyone else patch in material for cab mounts? Weld or otherwise? Pictures, suggestions... Seems the rot through on the driverside has allowed the cab to sag...figure I'll never get the doors working right if the cab is floating.
  21. Thank you GTK! You solved another one. Previous owner had had Black and green reversed. As you stated green goes to B, White on mine to F and black to A.
  22. Thanks Mike - did you shoot any pictures that you can share?
  23. Thanks. Anyone have experience with how or where to weld to fix the cab mounts? My front two are weak. Pictures and suggestions welcome.
  24. Guys - First let me say - I am an armature welder and body man at best- but the whole Idea here is the learning process right? Both cab corners were shot and I cut out and patched in steel (22 gauge I think) it came out ok and after some seam sealer it'l be fine. Besides with the clip on nobody will see it right!? Now for the structure, the floor of my truck has surface rust everywhere but some rot through at the front mounts, especially on the drivers side. Suggestions for repair. I don't really have a lift to pull the whole cab off but can be creative if need be (trees and chainfall). got the nut off the cab mount bolt but can't budge the bolt. Both washer and bolt appear to be rusted (welded?) to the cab. PB blaster, heat, air hammer and my impact wrench - no go. Seems I should get them out tilt the cab back and reinforce somehow. Thoughts, what to use or how? This will be a rough driver not a show truck so welding inside the cab or under doesn't bother me. All suggestions welcome. Thanks!
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