Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


jmooner3 last won the day on March 29 2017

jmooner3 had the most liked content!

About jmooner3

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  • Biography
    I'm a 40 somthin' dad of two great boys, 18 & 16. I'm learning about old trucks with them!
  • Occupation
    Procrastinator (worked at IBM for 27 years -now for GlobalFoundries)

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Essex Vermont
  • Interests
    Raising two young men - I coach football & Lacrosse and tinker on boats, trucks, and woodworking
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B1B 108 and 1950 B2D 116


  • Location
    Essex Vermont 05452, Yes it's a state way up in the NorthEast
  • Interests
    Coaching kids Football, Lacross, etc.- Love the outoors - fixing stuff wife/ kids break- Truck next!

Recent Profile Visitors

393 profile views
  1. jmooner3

    Running board length 49 B1B?

    Glad you made it home safe! Thanks for looking. Has anyone taken the longer running boards and cut them down to the 64" size? J
  2. jmooner3

    Running board length 49 B1B?

    Safe travels to all! I saw pics of the BBQ, looked like a beautiful day! Sleet sideways here in VT and everything is coated in an inch of ice...I'm ready for summer!
  3. I came up with some interesting info referencing running boards. I had bought a set of what I thought was the right stuff for my 108 wheelbase as I made a rookie mistake and bought the shorter of the two that I found thinking my 108 would be the short ones compared to my 126 B2D parts truck... I was wrong. I got a set of 60" boards straightened and cleaned up, extracted 4 busted bolts and chased all the threads, POR and then POR top coat, installed on the truck and then started fitting the bed.... As many of you already saw the punch line comming - ... the space between the front fender and the back fender is about 64 inches! If I can find a god set of 64" boards I will be posting the 60's on our classifieds . If not I'll be building a 4 inch spacer ;-) Anyone know of a source for the 64" boards? I added this link as it may help someone else sort out what they need before they head down the path I did. Just another subtle differences between the 50s and 40s trucks... Cheers. J
  4. jmooner3

    free parts

    MoparNuts - I have a B1D 1950 full rolling chasis with just cab on it. All four wheels are good, brakes redone not too long ago. Was a driver just a couple years ago. It's my parts truck and I'm working on a 1/2 ton B1B so the 1 ton drums and 126 wheel base is not going to be used by me. I was planning to put the whole enchilada up for sale on our classifieds section when I'm done picking what I needed off it. PM me if you are interested in it. I'm not planning to part it out at this point I'd rather send the whole frame and running gear to a good home in tact. I'm in Vermont - 05452.
  5. jmooner3

    Boards in Box

    Huge wealth of knowledge here on the site. I am just starting to strip my bed cut a huge piece of rusty rot out and welded in patches… Here’s some of what I found on the site. http://p15-d24.com/topic/46331-ol-blue-build/ Dodge Bed http://p15-d24.com/topic/42386-bed-wood-for-12-ton/?tab=comments#comment-450847 There are 6 boards all total, plus 5 metal skid strips and 2 side angles. (This is different than other makes of trucks in the same era such a Chevy’s that used 7 boards in their beds). Depth =¾ inches. All the wood is the same thickness Length = 78 inches, some people cut to length of 77 7/8 inches, so that the boards don’t actually touch the front or back of the bed, thus preventing some of the rust and rot that previous beds experienced. If you have a different length bed, then adjust the board length accordingly. Rabbit = ½ inch wide X 3/16 inch deep, if you want the metal skid strips just a little above the wood. That way anything in the bed rests on the runners and not on your beautifully finished wood. Otherwise, ½ inch wide X ¼ inchdeep for Mar-K skid strips to lay flush with the bed wood. If your skids aren’t from Mar-K then set the depth accordingly. All interior boards (B) will be rabbitted on both left and right sides. The two exterior boards (A) only have rabbit on side facing the interior. (A) Width, Outer Boards = 7 ¾ inch. Two outer boards can be as wide as 8 inch for a tighter fit, or shave ¼ for more flexibility in getting everything to look straight.. Your skid strip spacing allows for some adjustment. Remember, you can cut to 8 inch wide and then trim later if you need more room. (B) Width, Inner Boards = 7 11/16 – 7 3/8 inch. The four inner boards are same width. A wider size of 7 11/16, gives the skid strips more to hold only to and make for a tighter fit, but do not allow for as much variance. The smaller size keeps things a bit looser for adjustment purposes. The main criterion seems to be that all boards look straight and parallel when finished. ( C) Spacing= ½ inch. Space between boards (to allow for skid strips and bolts) is the same between all boards. Some people will trim the outside boards by 1/8 inch so the wood doesn’t actually touch the bedsides and create rot. Skid Strip bolts = 8 1/8 inch. Distance between bolt holes for skid strips is 8 1/8 inch center to center for inside boards. Outside skid strip bolts have the center hole 8 ¼ or 8 3/8 inch from the bed side. If your holes are different then wood spacing will need to be adjusted. Other things to watch for. Put anti squeak between the frame and bed crossmembers. Some people use a small nylon washer between the wood and support frames to slightly raise the wood and keep it dry when in direct contact with the metal frame. Otherwise, water doesn't dry out where the wood is in continual contact with metal. Dimensions for the hold down bolts on the outer boards. I don’t have this information. Can someone supply this. There are 3 holds for bolts, 2 to bolt to the frame and 1 to bolt to a cross member. There are no holes in the 4 inner boards as they are held in place by the skid strips. ONLY, location to get the RIGHT bed strips is from Midwest Military (https://midwestmilitary.com/) where they have their own dies to make the strips. Mar-K and Horkey all use Chevy/Ford strips in their kits. TRuck Box repair thread http://p15-d24.com/topic/28007-truck-box-floor-repair-thread/ Mark K - http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/bed_wood_dimensions.pdf
  6. jmooner3

    Differential disassembly

    Note the part numbers on the boxes for the seal and sleeve. These were very inexpensive - like $30 all together. and simple to install. Can't say if its a long term fix but for the moment - it's a far cry better than the leaker I had! My garage floor is thanking me. thought some of you half ton folks might appropriate an alternative neoprene double lip seal over the leather one.
  7. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    thank you guys! Blueberry thanks for the vote of confidence on the color - it caught my attention when I was pawing through the original truck colors it was in a newer Mopar book. Pflaming - I see that ours are different. I thought mine was a 49 yours looks like a high side bed and the whole embossing area is different as well as the font. Young Ed says 39-47 bed, would explain why ours are different. I think I'm just going to plug weld the holes and fineness what I can of the wrinkles out of the tailgate and get to fixing the rest of the sides. Unless I find a big fitment issue - That bed is going back on this truck ;-) Anyone have an option about paint and assemble order for the bed sides? do all the panels then bolt or, bolt them all up and shoot the whole enchilada? Can someone please put a tape measure on the side rail of your truck, just a quick reference to see if this one is close to yours - if it is I can make it fit. I want to say it was around 78 inches but I'll have to go get a good measurement.
  8. I don't know about the rear end but when I got my truck it had a 236 Desoto in it (Seized). As you stated it was a 25" block vs what was originally a 23" block. The PO had cut the radiator supports and mounted it a couple inches forward and made some box steel motor mounts for the front. If it's from a car you may have to swap the oil sump and pan around. As Truck and cars are different.
  9. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Hello guys - I’ve got my truck running driving, in a coat of paint, seat redone, and lights working -- LARGELY due to the help of many of you (THANK YOU!). I still need to find a couple 1/2 ton wheels, hubcaps, and a few other odds and ends - But the last big hurdle is that it needs a bed to finish off the body... I have a low side bed, in pretty rusty shape but salvageable. The tailgate looks like it was well used or maybe dragged down the road and jumped on. But hey they are trucks made for working right? I will probably pound out some of the dents and try and make it less like a potato chip but after a bit of hammering, I’m going to paint it and call it done. We'll call it character. I have found some great insight on the forum for what some of you guys have done putting yours together. Pictures of yours always welcome, as are any additional advice or pitfalls noted. Questions. 1) What are the holes on the letters of my tailgate for? Were these factory? Seems there could have been some trim piece poked in there but I like just the embossed DODGE (there was a thread where some had painted and one member was considering making a vinyl sticker to make the embossed sections stand out (that's cool) . I’m thinking of plugging the holes unless someone knows of a good reason not to. 2) My bed sides have a ton of holes drilled in between the cab and fender, I assume there was a spare tire carrier or some other item hanging there, unless someone knows of holes other than the fenders that I need I'm going to weld all of them shut for good. 3) Where can I get new bed chains? Mine are pretty rusty and I’d like a cleaned up set, maybe even stainless if not to pricey. 4) What’s the general thought on assembly of the bed.-once I get the rot cut/ground out and patches welded in should I paint and then assemble OR assemble the threes sides and then paint so the fasteners are nicely painted not marred up by wrench? 5) I’m thinking of doing the stainless bed strips, I will probably try and weld the angle strips to the bed sides with stainless wire because I'm not a fan of the angles bolted on. Thoughts on that? Other pointers on the bed welcome. I've got a fair amount of metal work ahead of me... but I kinda like it ;-) Thanks , Jay
  10. jmooner3

    Differential disassembly

    Hey DodgeB4ya - thanks for the quick response! I'm looking at the diagram - Makes sense and great news. I bought the leather seal but it seems from other's opinions I should get the rubber one instead. Does DCM have the speedy sleeves too, is anyone aware of other sources of neoprene seals to consider? Jay
  11. jmooner3

    Differential disassembly

    Hey Guys, I pulled the drive shaft and yoke with the plan to fix the leaking pinion seal... As always I searched the forum for info, which usually answers the question. The yoke is pitted so it looks like I'm headed for a speedy sleeve.. but that might be on the back burner... I'm resurrecting this thread because DodgeB4ya said - You can remove the pinion yoke and then remove the pinion seal and replace it. As long as the pinion shaft and yoke have no end or side play at all Once I pulled the yoke it's clear that the pinion shaft has some play both side to side and end play, is any play acceptable?.... I suspect that means a more involved piece of work than just swapping the seal. The shop manual's exploded diagram is helpful for me to have an idea of what parts play here, can I correct this from the shaft end or do I need to take apart the dif...could it be the front bearing or am I into a full dif rebuild? I welcome advice on this one. Thanks in advance. Jay
  12. jmooner3

    50 B2b, Seat back access?

    Not clear what the hangup might be, I was able to slide the whole seat frame forward( bottom and back as a unit), then the seat back was held onto the frame with four hooks. the bottom two just hooked over and friction fit, the top two had each a self tapping screw into the hook that is welded onto the seat back...they were in plain sight once the seat pulled forward. I pulled those two screws and the seat back lifted right off. Got any pics of your setup? There's some pretty smart fellas that have seen it all with these trucks...
  13. jmooner3

    Fuel pump question

    Thanks folks. Looks like the one I have inbound is the offset model but I'll pull the Coggins trick and index it to straight and check pressure - shim to the ~ 4.5 range as MechResto taught us... I like Merle's idea of planning ahead so I'll rebuild the one I have too. Cheers, Jayson
  14. jmooner3

    Fuel pump question

    Rock auto has what looks to be a re manufactured or used Carter? But there's an Airtex as well for ~$50. It lists two, one for the B2D thru engine 11039 and one after 11039... The shim adjustment is interesting, never heard of that, thanks for the info Mech. Can anyone fill me in here. My engine is a T176-7672 its from a 1 ton 1950... I think that was a B2-D and I think my engine is a 230. But the engine number doesn't match up to the Airtex engine number ranges listed on Rock auto... Are they referring to the digits after the dash in which case my 7672 is before 11039...? I ordered one yesterday based on this thinking... Input welcome. Thanks, J
  15. jmooner3

    50 B2b, Seat back access?

    Only other comment is the two hooks that hang over the top of the seat frame at top of back rest had a screw in each hook(not sure if previous owner did that or if they came that way), so mine needed those screws removed, then it lifted right off like the guys mentioned.

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use