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jmooner3

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jmooner3 last won the day on September 18 2018

jmooner3 had the most liked content!

About jmooner3

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    jmooner3@yahoo.com
  • Biography
    I'm a 40 somthin' dad of two great boys, 18 & 16. I'm learning about old trucks with them!
  • Occupation
    Procrastinator (worked at IBM for 27 years -now for GlobalFoundries)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Essex Vermont
  • Interests
    Raising two young men - I coach football & Lacrosse and tinker on boats, trucks, and woodworking
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B1B 108 and 1950 B2D 116

Converted

  • Location
    Essex Vermont 05452, Yes it's a state way up in the NorthEast
  • Interests
    Coaching kids Football, Lacross, etc.- Love the outoors - fixing stuff wife/ kids break- Truck next!

Recent Profile Visitors

657 profile views
  1. Mines a 49 dodge but looks similar. have done it solo. Like bisquick said I ran tape along hinge where painted surface might hit painted surface when open. I opened both sides and tied the two latch handles together so the whole enchilada moved as one. Two bolts front 2 aft slid it off. Then I put it flat on a piece of plywood and until it to let it lay flat. When my son helped it was a breeze, suggest you get a helper. It’s not heavy at all just a bit awkward. God luck!
  2. Thanks all, update- I did get the 68” boards straightened and cut about 4” out then welded them back up to the 64” size, welded a couple brackets, retapped, painted with POR rust inhibitor and topcoat... they’re not perfect but they fit right and look good on the truck. Sounds like the 60” ones I have are for b4b or c series from what I can find on the forum and google, But for anyone wondering the 1949 b1b 108 wheelbase uses the 64” version. Couldn’t upload pics from my phone, will updat when have access to computer.
  3. We've got a couple of seasons up here in Vermont.... Beautiful summer for a week, winter for 7 months, mud season from April til June and of course the perfect weather for a drive in ol blue in the fall!
  4. Here's some info for you to consider... I did the sleeve and seal as called out int Jpartington's post below - I added a pic of the SKF parts(with partnumbers on boxes) - bought through Amazon--worked great, still going strong.
  5. I have a B!B (1/2 ton) and the number was in the same spot. I scraped off the crud and did some light sanding to reveal large stamped numbers that matched my door tag.
  6. Good input guys so we have good results with the Bill Hirsch system any others on the redkote...? any pitfalls or things to avoid if I go this route? The price is right but the "new" tank is pretty appealing as the process seems pretty straight forward but quite a lot of swinging the tank around three times to strip, etch, and then coat with a good long dry time in between... http://www.hirschauto.com/AUTOMOTIVE-FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/ARK-01/ https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49239-Auto-Fuel-Repair/dp/B000H9K4K0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1541770445&sr=8-9&keywords=red-kote
  7. Lots of good options here thx. My tank is pretty solid, I spent a day wire brushing every inch and then painted POR over the whole thing. I don't have any swiss cheese holes on this one, the leak on mine is just at the seam where the two halves come together. With the options listed of refurbing the one I have 300-600 or a brand new repop for under $300 having a hard time not pulling that trigger. I was considering one of the systems where you slosh around a cleaner, etch, then slosh some material that creates a membrane inside the tank. I thought I had read a post on that where someone tried that and was very unhappy with it, I can't seem to find it again though. I know folks that have used this type of system on motorcycle tanks with success... One of the posts I found talked about "Tanks Inc." I'm headed there to research next. all input welcome.
  8. Update The Runaway heat issue appears to be behind us. JB's theory of head gasket failure leading to gasses jumping cylinders leading to runaway - seems accurate judging by the poor condition of the head gasket. So its got a new head gasket and head torqued and re torqued a few times after heat cycle. My son helped me to put the hood back on yesterday and I took OlBlue out for a cruise, Tstat opened right on queue, engine ran cool and all is good. Truck has beautiful new radiator keeping it cool. I'm pulling in a radiator thread to keep my chronology together. I did grab the manifold heat control with vice grips and turn it about a half turn clockwize as well. If not going to repair back to stock, I think I understand this to be the position we want to run them in(Full clockwise) -right? Next is the bed wood and Gotta drop the fuel tank and seal that up, it's leaking at the aft section by the seam, I was thinking I'd use one of those products that you prep the tank and pour in to create a membrane inside...anyone have a favorite tank restoration product? IT's that or run a half tank=full 😉 Thanks, Jayson
  9. JB that info is great, nice to see greybeard's words continuing to educate! Net I got was this feature was innovative to resolve an icing issue and is generally not needed. If I can turn clockwise and leave it I will. I believe my overheat issue is a result of headgasket failure. as yall suggested exhaust jumping between cylinders and leading to a runaway issue. I've replaced head gasket, torqued and retorqued and it appears to be controlling heat. Like I said I am running the engine with rad cap off and I do see steam (or exhaust) exiting the fill neck of the rad, no bubbles noted. I need to get one of the exhaust test kits to put my mind at ease and theory to rest. I just posted a radiator solution on the forum. I found SUPERIOR RADIATORS from Mt. Clemens Michigan. www.superiorradiator.com, 586-463-8722. Charlie was great to deal with.
  10. My truck had a period correct radiator but was from a desoto car I think, welded a bracket to fit but overall it was wrong for our trucks. It sprung a leak and I started looking for a replacement. That is where I found SUPERIOR RADIATORS from Mt. Clemens Michigan. http://www.wwwsuperiorradiator.com , 586-463-8722. I spoke to Charlie about our trucks he had a drop in radiator $380. he tweaked a couple designs and came up with a nice fit for my truck. These are tig welded aluminum radiators, thing looks beautiful in the truck. Charlie was great to work with and I've got the radiator in the truck. I don't yet have the shroud on or hood back on to verify final fit, but it mounted right up to our rad support. If you're looking for a radiator for a b series truck, I suggest you give Charlie a shot...
  11. Great info! Thanks! This engine is clean as a whistle internaly I flushed it all and got a fresh water dist tube in behind waterpump. What are you guys using to reinstall freeze plugs? I had used permetex red previously and it held up fine, a mechanic friend told me to use Indian head, which I did this time and I now have two leaking post reassemble...least of my worries now, they are just seeping a bit so I'll continue to chase the overheat and fix those when I drain block next. Manifold: JB thanks for the info - I need to look into the manifold heat control when I get back to the truck, this engine has no external signs of having that control. There is a stud there where It's supposed to be (2 actually)? see pic. Does that mean that it's there and I'm missing some parts? I see the slotted post where spring is supposed to be, but there are no other parts in any the bins/buckets that I got with this one, anyone have extra parts to sell? Is there a safe way to orientate this valve and run the engine? Head Gasket - So I had the head machined flat but the block stayed put. I mated up a new felpro gasket (Dry as recommended by manufacturer) put my newly flatened head on and torqued, reassembled engine, started and it overheated pretty quickly. I re-torqued with hot engine and restarted heard the Tstat open and it's rock steady at 160. It was pretty cold out that day, and I ran it with no rad cap on. I noticed steam or what could be exhaust (if head gasket was compromised) coming out of rad top. IF the runaway condition was happening again -exh between cylinders could there be exhaust actually showing out rad top? Engine/Valves: Valve seats look OK and engine compression - all six were between 90-110psi. I cleaned up the top of block (pic). Top of valves were a little discolored but not terribly pitted. Piston tops cleaned up ok too. Figured I'd run it torque head after a couple heat cycles and then check compression again.
  12. Thanks for the quick responses! Couple votes for exhaust migrating in the head... The gasket was discolored between each cyl, so exhaust could have been migrating as you suggest. The machine shop said the head was warped pretty bad, so the leaks probably got worse as it overheated and made the problem worse. The coolant was brand new a month ago it's still pretty green and does not stink. The engine ran ok when I first got the truck back on the road and then over time progressively got worse overheating after 1/2 hour then after 10 min then after 5... so it's plausible that the exhaust leaks in the head gasket were the major downfall. A couple mentions of pitting on cyl 1 and valves, what shows in that pic is a lot of carbon, it was loaded with it -pistons, valves and the head was full. Plugs were filthy as well. I plan to clean up the top of engine and reinstall head, I will pop in a current pic of the top of engine when clean for you to weigh in on, if you still think pitting. There are many schools of thought on installing gasket. The felpro head gasket that I got says to install dry as it's intended to seal itself. I have copper spray and was considering hitting the block side of the gasket as I did not machine the block just the head. so gasket side against the newly milled head I was going to leave dry.... I'm curious what the manifold heat control is? as for the draft tube, I had it off a while back, painted it and reinstalled it was clean then, I'll check it though, the mice around here seem to find all the most inconvenient places to winter. And is did see flow in the top of radiator when running ode to the water pump but no latent bubbles noted. Once I have it all back together I'll check timing and dwell where should those be set? Thank you all! J
  13. Nice looking truck, welcome to the forum! I sent you a PM with my number if you find yourself over in Essex. Forum friend - I have not yet figured out my overheat, have researched a bunch on the forum and several members have mentioned timing and dwell as possible culprits. That's where I think I have to go next. I have ruled out water pump(new) - still hot, ruled out Tstat (ran without out and put a new one in) still hot, new radiator still hot, and I pulled the head, water dist tube, and all freeze plugs again as well as pressure washed every orifice I could gt into (motor still in truck) so didn't get back freeze plug. I also pressure washed in the head passage ways and then took the head to the machine shop for a clean and decking...it was warped and had a ding between cyl 5 and 6. they took it down .015 .. so I've got to get it all put back together again, get it running and set up timing. where to set the timing? For those that have found timing to be cause of overheating any tips welcome. The engine ran like a sewing machine but the plugs, head and cylinder tops were covered with carbon. For you engine whisperers, I imagine that's telling me something - opinions welcome. Thanks, Jayson
  14. Thanks JB! And thanks to the Moose for the initial partnumber and relief cut idea. I too searched the forum, scoured the web and came up empty. Hopefully the next folks lookig for the dust caps can find this helpful repost. I love this forum! " NAPA P/N 730-2409 & put a couple of relief cuts in them "
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