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jmooner3

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jmooner3 last won the day on September 18

jmooner3 had the most liked content!

About jmooner3

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    jmooner3@yahoo.com
  • Biography
    I'm a 40 somthin' dad of two great boys, 18 & 16. I'm learning about old trucks with them!
  • Occupation
    Procrastinator (worked at IBM for 27 years -now for GlobalFoundries)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Essex Vermont
  • Interests
    Raising two young men - I coach football & Lacrosse and tinker on boats, trucks, and woodworking
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B1B 108 and 1950 B2D 116

Converted

  • Location
    Essex Vermont 05452, Yes it's a state way up in the NorthEast
  • Interests
    Coaching kids Football, Lacross, etc.- Love the outoors - fixing stuff wife/ kids break- Truck next!

Recent Profile Visitors

438 profile views
  1. jmooner3

    Bearing Cover, Dust caps 1/2 ton

    Thanks JB! And thanks to the Moose for the initial partnumber and relief cut idea. I too searched the forum, scoured the web and came up empty. Hopefully the next folks lookig for the dust caps can find this helpful repost. I love this forum! " NAPA P/N 730-2409 & put a couple of relief cuts in them "
  2. Does anyone have a part number or source for the bearing covers (dust caps) for the front wheel bearings on a B1B. I thought I had seen something on the forum about trailer caps that fit but I cannot find. thx.
  3. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    I'm working on the over heating issue at the moment. It's either Radiator or Block (water dist tube) Will know next Friday when new radiator arrives...
  4. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Just wanted to put this thread in here as it really should have been at the beginning.... To keep the story straight 😉
  5. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Latest update - I posted in an overhat thread but thought I should post here the milestone of achieving taking my truck the the destination I targeted a couple years ago. I headed out to the NSRA show Saturday and Ol blue boiled over half way there..... I'm not finished but I got it running on time to get it to this show at the local fairgrounds where there were a ton of really cool old cars and trucks. So, half way meant decision - home to work on it or short stints with a wait....I drove a little, boiled a bit and waited a couple times but limped it into the show. It was on my bucket list and is a milestone in the life of ol Blue. My son Jake and I started the project when he was around 10....he's 19 now and we still had a ball limping to and from the show... So we made it to the show, met some nice folks, and from our multiple tours around the fairgrounds...appeared that ol Blue was the only Pilot house - representing our rigs 😉 ... Proud moment to have so many people looking at my truck and commenting on how cool it was that it was all original +ground and flathead mostly still getting it done. Once I get the overheat figured out I'll certainly get back on the road.
  6. jmooner3

    Overheat or bad gauge?

    I'm not certain that it's waterpump or tstat but they look original, the waterpump did flow water but I'm not sure what amount it should flow and the Tstat appears to be stuck open when I pulled it, I left it in as my thinking was open is good... Tod I did flush the block when I first got it, removed , poked and replaced all freeze plugs etc. however I don't remember pulling the water dist tube on this one. Honestly I just got the fresh painted sheet metal all back on, and the wiring finished across the headlights. The waterpump and Tstat are the easy first try (<$50 from rock auto) without having to dismantle much. If no go then I will pull the doghouse again, pull the pump, dist tube and all plugs again and flush it good.
  7. It might have been bolted to the frame, I don't remember, I can check when home.
  8. The flat stock bent like a z looks like the brackets from the frame to the bottom back hole of the fender - bolt goes through fender, lower box metal, and this bracket. the end with two holes rivets to frame at rear on each side. Not sure about the others. J
  9. jmooner3

    Overheat or bad gauge?

    Thanks guys, so the update is that it's really overheating now, I headed out to the car NSRA show Saturday and boiled over half way there..... I'm not finished but I got it running on time to get it to this show at the local fairgrounds where there were a ton of really cool old cars and trucks. So, half way meant decision - home to work on it or short stints with a wait....I drove a little, boiled a bit and waited a couple times but limped it into the show. It was on my bucket list and is a milestone in the life of ol Blue. My son Jake and I started the project when he was around 10....he's 19 now and we still had a ball limping to and from the show... I've got a waterpump on order from Rock auto... So we made it to the show, met some nice folks, and from our multiple tours around the fairgrounds...appeared that ol Blue was the only Pilot house - representing our rigs 😉 ... Proud moment to have so many people looking at my truck and commenting on how cool it was that it was all original +ground and flathead mostly still getting it done. Once I get the overheat figured out I'll certainly get back on the road.
  10. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Thanks for the votes of confidence guys!. I'll get some inside pics, Seat and dash are refurbed, still need to do the roof insert and door cards. Merle thanks for the info, the trans shifts well just not a lot of top end, so the rear end might be the right way to go for me. What is the ratio of the original rear axle? I have the stainless strips from DCM and bought the hardware from ACE hardware here in VT, I had some red oak trees cut in my yard and had a portable sawmill come here and cut into boards. I just need to make the time to plane them and mill to size. But in keeping with this project theme - do all I can myself.... to me it's kinda cool that the wood grew on my land and now I'll make it part of this project.
  11. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Thanks for the Trans pick, mine is same housing with different lever. I also have a trans that was 3 on the tree, I wonder if that has any taller gears? I can swap the shift lever on that and make it a floor shift as I don't have the 50 firewall or Ebrake setup for the column shift. But the trans works, it'd just need to be a floor shift. As for the paint, I used 2 stage base /clear. Painted it outside and it came out pretty good. I had a couple bugs land in the clear, butI had laid it on pretty thick so plenty to wet sand and then buff.... not hard at all and to be honest that was what this truck was all about to me. I had never welded before, I welded the frame, many panels, fenders etc. I got better as I went. and my truck is all steel all original. I had never taken a head off or done much more than change the oil but I got the engine running and pulled it from one truck to install in this one then got it running again, I certainly had never painted anything, I bought the lower end starting line spray guns from speedway and gave it a rip.... I did everything on the truck sometimes more than once:-) including upholstery, Using Utube or our shop manuals, figured out a bunch of stuff - my rig is FAR from perfect but I like it and that gave me a pretty cool sense of accomplishment. My point I guess is this truck gave me the opportunity to explore some things that I've found really interest me. I think one of the biggest things I try and teach my kids and have lived is ya just can't be afraid to try or to fail, but be sure and try again. My vote is for you to do the two stage paint and have a ball with it!
  12. Hey Guys, I'm chasing an overheating symptom. It's a 1950 230ci with external bypass. I've just started driving the truck, first couple of trips temp gauge hung around 180 degrees, was 90 outside but truck ran good. Now it's cooler out but dash gauge reads hot ~200 and up to 212 when I shut it down. Could junk have moved around and partially plugged thermostat...? ( I had pulled all freeze plugs, and water dist tube on this motor and purged tons of junk. I dumped the rad and ran water but never really flushed it as I was afraid to cause a leak. Radiator seems to burp a bit of anti freeze each time, down overflow tube - indication of something? I filled Rad to top and ran truck to see if I could see flow from the water pump, cannot see if there is flow at top fill port. Top hose is hot to the touch bottom hose is cooler. Does that indicate the the thermostat is working properly, rad is not plugged, and the water pump is working correctly? How does system work though Tstat> Does water flow into top of rad from block and out bottom of rad back into block? I used my laser temp gauge to hit all parts of the motor a couple of different times. Net is exhaust side of block is 300+ head just above is 170deg, fitting where bulb end of temp gauge is 160, all areas on head 160, block 165, top of rad 156, bottom of rad 70 antifreeze in top of rad 155. Seems the engine is actually controlling as it should? The dash gauge climbing through the roof just has me nervous. I'm trying to convince myself that the engine is running at 160 but feel like I'm missing something...anyone have a gauge run away like this? Are these gauges adjustable or able to calibrate? Any thoughts or suggestions? Best way to determine if water pump is working to verify rad has proper flow to verify thermostat working and enough flow The rad seems period correct, but it didn't bolt right in, I had to weld up a bracket - I think it's from a desoto car. the lip where the cap attaches has an overflow tube above the sealing surface, seems it should have a pressurized cap...should our engines run pressurized or not? and if so what psi? Idea why rad burps each time, maybe I have rad too full? All info welcome! thanks, J
  13. jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Nearly 70 years after coming off the production line she's running the roads of a little new England town again. I am at another key point in this journey, I got the truck registered, insured, and inspected because that's all the rules to extract $ from me and legally put a vehicle on the road here in Vermont..... Ol Blue has all the parts to make it a real truck, assembled mostly where they go, painted up to match, and all the lights work as they did from the factory. Still some work to do (headliner, bed slats, right running boards) but it's a running driving B1B and I'm having a ball driving it around town. I have to go back and check the forum, I remember someone talking about transmissions and taller gears. I have a 230 flathead from a 1950 B1D mated to the 3 speed on the floor (reverse is where normal 1st gear would be), top speed is about 40. The trans I believe is from a Desoto car as the engine I got with this truck was a desoto. The trans I have does not have the long bent shift lever that I see in some of your trucks. Anyone have an idea of a trans I should mate up to this powerplant to give me a little more drive ability? Anyway wanted to update yall and share a pic. Hey by the way there is a National Street Rod Association (NSRA) car show here in Essex Vermont next weekend, ther'll be a lot of our vintage rigs mostly chevy and ford but an occasional Dodge and Ol Blue will ramble in and make her first appearance....any chance any of you are bringing your trucks? PM me if you do! Cheers Jay
  14. jmooner3

    Running board length 49 B1B?

    Glad you made it home safe! Thanks for looking. Has anyone taken the longer running boards and cut them down to the 64" size? J
  15. jmooner3

    Running board length 49 B1B?

    Safe travels to all! I saw pics of the BBQ, looked like a beautiful day! Sleet sideways here in VT and everything is coated in an inch of ice...I'm ready for summer!
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