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About JohnTeee

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Southeast Missouri
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth P15 Special Deluxe Convertible

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Working on dad's 2nd P15 Special Deluxe Convertible
  • Occupation
    Helicopter Flight Nurse


  • Location
    47 P15 Convertible Special Deluxe in Southeast Missouri
  • Interests
    Bow, rifle and blackpowder hunting; computers; readinng; my '47 P15

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  1. JohnTeee

    1947 P15 Starter,Generator rebuild places???

    Nation Starter and Alternator 2210 Broadway St, Cape Girardeau, MO 63701 http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/ 888.334.2632 They've been in Cape since 1930, were Nation Brothers, back in the day. John
  2. JohnTeee

    Dash help

    Do you have a reverse light? Maybe in the left, rear fender? Dad's '48 has that rotating switch connected to a reverse light. jT
  3. JohnTeee

    1946 P15 Hood Release Spring fitment

    Don't know if this will help you or not, but it looks pretty similar to my stock '47 P15 installation. Bit of a challenge to get in there to take a picture. Boy, is it dirty under there!
  4. JohnTeee

    Oil bath filter versus paper filter?

    I've still got my original Oil Bath Filter, in pretty good shape. Cleaned up and modified a spare filter that was in kind of sad shape. Here's my results and the air filter cartridge that I used. Be sure your filter is tall enough. Otherwise the bottom edge of the top will suck down to the base and block airflow. Of course, you could always go up higher removing the sides of the top. John
  5. It wasn't that bad, at first, when the sun was shining a little higher. By the time I got home, my ears were quite chilled. Wish I'd thought of using the dice. John
  6. Well, just like a bad penny, I'm turning up again and popping this thread back up to the top. Sent the original clutch and pressure plate to TN Clutch and have finally got in installed and the car buttoned back up. As the pilot bearing and throw out bearing had something around 2000 miles on them, I left them in use. It drives sweet! Still have some minor adjustments and need to recheck the timing, but I had it out driving today after getting it buttoned up. Afternoon Drive . . . It was 29F and the top has been sitting 'down' for a year. Could not get it up and latched. Drove it to Wal-Mart anyway. John
  7. Hey Don! Lots to think about there and sounds like another good place to look. I will qualify this with, "at one point" the springs were in place and clipped into the fork, with the fork seated on the ball. That's not to say that we didn't knock something out of place during reassembly. I'll see if I can do some 'peeking' and otherwise, pull the trani back out. Throw Out Bearing was new in '05, came with new springs and may have 1-2,000 miles on it. Er, hum, how do I tell if it's correctly seated? I've got good, smooth clutch pedal action and can put it fully into neutral/disengaged. I probably need to adjust clutch free travel; saw that procedure, but got interrupted in the process by the bucking. Test fit of the second/installed clutch was good on my spare trani input shaft . . . and yes, on the installed trani as well; had to think on that for a moment. We pulled the installed trani, set it on the bench and checked the fit. That was when we found the fit of the 10" clutch splines on the input shaft splines was a problem. The clutch was installed with the legend, "Flywheel Side" to the flywheel and the raised portion to the back. Thanks for all the ideas. Now, I'm not sure when I'll get to check them all out. I work the next several days, then leave on vacation. May end up being the end of the month before I can tear into it! Cheers! John
  8. Hi Rich! I changed the bushing in 2005, a couple thousand miles at most on that. Er, uh, not having the Miller tool, I used the shade tree method of filling the pocket with grease, inserting an appropriate size bolt and whacking with an soft hammer. Can't recall how I inserted the new bushing, but I had advise from here, or the old site, rather. Sounds like good advice. I'll see if there's gunk or rust built up and let TN Clutch have a look at it. Thanks! John
  9. JohnTeee

    Let's decode my block

    Here's a very nice reference site that may answer the question: Flat Head Six Engine Numbers That Start With "P" P25 218ci Plymouth Car Plymouth 6 1954 Except that site does not address the 'Diamond' stamp . . . Cheers! John
  10. JohnTeee

    The Old Car Nut Book - Free

    For those of you who are eBook readers, just ran across this listing on Amazon for a free Kindle ebook that looks to be good (and received good ratings/reviews): The Old Car Nut Book I'm downloading it for my Kindle, may get a chance to read it on vacation, along with the other 500 books I have on the thing! John
  11. Morning Doug, Both my installed flywheel and my 'original' are drilled for both sizes. By serial number, my engine/flywheel probably came out of a 1948-49 B-1-B Dodge Truck (probably rebuilt later, as the "T142" is over-stamped with "E17670"), other spare parts came out of a '53 MOPAR (guy told me he had '49 parts!) and a donor '48 P15, so it's hard telling the origin of my parts. I have a matching Borg & Beck 10" Pressure Plate and 10" Clutch. I suppose I should have it rebuilt before using, so I don't run into the same kind of problem I'm having now. Attempted installation of the 10" was, while the splines of the clutch matched both the input shaft and the alignment tool, it was a very tight fit on the input shaft. I was trying to decide whether I should possibly 'dress up' the splines of the clutch with a fine file, or . . . Maybe if it's rebuilt, TN Clutch could look at that. Thanks! John
  12. That's what I get for pulling something of unknown provenance off the shelf. Thanks guys! Pulled parts off to TN Clutch tomorrow. Any thoughts on the 10" Borg & Beck Clutch and Pressure Plate? Is that an application for the '47 Plymouth auto? My '46-'54 Plymouth Service Manual appears to show application for all models for Borg & Beck 9-1/8" (6 spring), 9-1/4" (9 spring) and 10" (9 spring) clutches and same for "driven disc" (pressure plate?). Thanks! John
  13. Morning Rich, Engine mounts are in bad shape: Interestingly, I don't see evidence of the spacer assembly "SPACER ASSY -- 9-71-12" as shown in the Plymouth Parts Book I found Upper and Lower Rear Mount replacements (as well as the front) at Roberts, but no mention of the spacer assembly being available. Have to get those ordered. I know I'll have to deal with DS balance at some point, however, that's on the 'high speed' side of things. I'd like to be able to start from a stop without shaking the guts out of the old girl. Here's a link to a short YouTube Video showing the 'twisting'/'oscillation' of the drive shaft on starting from a stop. Could this be weak springs in the clutch, creating an increasing oscillation? Thanks for reading and the suggestions. It will come in time. John
  14. Well, after a long hiatus, both from the forum and the '47 Plymouth, we are getting things going again. We 'blew up' a clutch a while back and experienced a some problems trying to replace it. Not sure if I brought the first set of problems on to myself . . . In looking at the flywheel, there are two sets of bolt holes: the 'inner' set matches up to my original Borg & Beck 9-1/8" Clutch and Pressure Plate, rebuilt by TN Clutch in 2005. The 'outer' set of holes match up to the 10" 6-Spring Borg & Beck Clutch I had on my shelf. (Clutch Pat. No. 2.277.555-2.448.079; 9-Spring Pressure Plate Pat. No. 1889939-1880590-2104982). I believe these came out of an early 50's auto. With a son in 3-On-The-Tree learning mode, I thought the 10" would be a good drop in. My Clutch alignment tool fit fine, the clutch splines matched up with the trani shaft splines, but was a bit of a tight fit. We tried multiple times to mount the clutch, pressure plate and trani and things sort of hung there. Last week we pulled the 10" clutch/pressure plate out and installed a spare 9-1/8" Borg & Beck that appeared to have some life left in it. Doing some reading, I realized that there was a gasket missing between the bell housing and trani - never had one there that I'm aware of. We made a gasket for that interface , got everything lined up with a little difficulty and installed. Possible problem - with parts lying on the garage floor for over a year, there was a possibility of the propeller shaft getting flipped end for end . . . any problem there? We've pulled it back out and reversed it without any change. Oh, that brings me to the problem I'm having, starting out in 1st or reverse or downshifting 3rd into 2nd, there is a horrible shuddering and clanging; actually shakes the front end. It is almost impossible to get a smooth start. Pulling the floor and watching while moving the car, you can feel the shuddering, but the bouncing of the engine on the mounts I expected was not there. Engine mounts are probably original. Looking at the propeller shaft during movement I can see it 'bouncing' back and forth as it turns. I have a video I'll post shortly that will demonstrate that better than my writing. Maybe this movement is normal, as I've never looked at the propeller shaft during start up . . . Any suggestions on locating the source of the vibration? I know this is hard when you can't put hands, eyes and ears on the car! John
  15. JohnTeee

    Snowing in S.E. Missouri too

    And one more . . . John

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