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david lazarus

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  • Biography
    Married with two young adult (at times) children. Inherited a '38 from my brother, now have car on
  • Occupation
    Sales Manager

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  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    MOPAR's, Snowskiing, rowing and cycling
  1. Andy I have just completed this on my RHD '38...Jeeze what a mission. by the time I realised it was not easy I was donkey deep into it and had to see it through. Problems were rear header hit my brake master cylinder (had to move that). replumb the brake line Heat transfer to the MC (had to lag the headers) Clutch pedal swing (had to offset that) Pedal linkages all wrong, had to instal a complete new pedal, cable etc. Pipework was complicated as it ducked and dived around all the RHD items. On several occasions tools and foul language flew in all directions. However have all smiles now. PM me you email and I will send you pic's
  2. These cars were scarce even before I was born, but for me I am facinated by their endurance (will todays Honda be around in 70 years time...I doubt it). Then the time I spend working on them is my "de-stressor" something totally differet to what I do 9 to 5, they are simple, robust and quite forgiving to work on.
  3. I recently replaced these plugs on my '68 Cortina, been a few years since I did this job. Earlier advice is good, clean the machined "seat" well, I also used a rag with solvent to remove oil residue, lightly coated with a sealant/cement of your choice. Then....I found it important to get the plug well back into its "seat". I even tapped very gently around the edge until I could hear that it was hard up against the "seat". Then you need a couple of firm hits to deform it. My tools of choice are two hammers, one a ball peen. The ball end of one hammer rests against the plug, and you hit the ball peen with the second hammer. Wear glasses. looking for the middle of the plug to deform inwards, the area of deformation I work towards is a little more than 1/2 the surface area of the plug to be deformed inwards.
  4. Fitted similar to my '38. Got a "remote brake fluid reservour" from a wrecker, fitted this to the engine side of the firewall. Used rubber brake hose down to the master cylinder. put a fitting through the filler cap, blocked off the air hole and filled her up. Works great and cost very little. When pumping the brakes some rising and falling can be seen in the reservour but no spillage, and easy to top up.
  5. Sorry but I can't answer your specific question, but do not let electrics fool you, by thinking they are complicated. Electrics were explained to me as follows. Think of the electrics as a water system...the battery is like a "lake", the wires just like a pipe...you pipe the water (elecricity) to where you need it. A relay is simply a "remote switch" can be activated with only a little electricity but can switch on and off higher loads with ease. Grab yourself a test light, and continuity tester which are both cheap and go for it. Replacing the generator with an alternator makes everything even easier.
  6. Ha ha some of you guys crack me up !! Some years ago at the start of my project my wife said it was a waste of money and that she did not approve of it. Well my new wife LOVES the car, see's it as a great de-stresser for me. Maybe I have to add the cost of settlement with my first wife to the total cost of the car....which makes it the most expensive '38 on the planet !!!!. But still worth it !!!
  7. The "driver V's trailer queen" thread got me wondering. When repairing my '38 I decided not to keep a tally of the cost...cause I would have probably chickened out when I saw the $ going west. Yet another guy I met new down to THE LAST CENT:eek: how much his car had cost him !! So guy's, generally are we penny watchers or do we prefer blissful ignorance ????
  8. Many years ago an old mechanic said to briefly boil contaminated shoes in soapy water. The combination of heating and water will drive the oils out of the linings. All that said......I have always relined just to be sure. Yet, if I needed a temporary "limp home only" fix I would probably do the above.
  9. Interesting thread... I spent tooooo much on my '38...stopped keeping count and at that point it wasn't even on the road. We drive it almost every weekend, and a few chips and bugs are just fine. I do not show my car (happy to drive it to club events, or to car shows where there is no judging), for some reason the idea of competing against others with the car does nothing for me. To me, I just enjoy having, driving and working on the car.
  10. Hi Savoy Boy What part of the country are you in ??
  11. Yes, 95 octain costs us $6.68 US Dollars per US Gallon (we buy in litres here) Drive off's from gas stations is rife, and the drain on consumers pockets is stalling our economy. There is only 4 million of us, so if just 600,000 individuals make a similar decision it realy impacts. Soon if I fill up the '38 I might double its value !!
  12. Before I completed the interior on the '38 it was very loud, but I expected that noise would bounce inside an unlined car. What did suprise me was how quieter it became when I did complete the interior and then the car became smoother still when I put new radials on. The old Xply tyres were 30 years old and hard as hell.
  13. I run a 3.23 Ford rear end in the '38 with the standard 3 speed. Runs fine. If I could I would drop even just a smidge lower..say 3.1. Also I am on 16 inch rims with fairly tall radial tyres
  14. Sorry to hear about all these problems happening at once. Just remember to prioritise the important things, and park up the not so critical things...I am sure Nancy will be ok if you can work out some sort of walking frame for her ...then back out to the car !!!
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