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vintage6t

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Everything posted by vintage6t

  1. 1951 I Chrysler Imperial

    Here is a link to the spring page of the parts book they have online at imperialclub.com : Spring Parts List
  2. Explorer rear end

    IRC the Explorer rears are offset to the passenger side, meaning two different axle tube lengths. I'm pretty sure a common way to shorten them is to get a second rear and replace the long axle tube with another short one from the second rear. The tubes are just plug welded into the center housing. This also centers the housing. Offhand I forget the specific width shorted and not. I have one I plan on putting in a 50 Desoto using the original length and offset. Way back when I measured for it, it was only a fraction of an inch shorter than the original Mopar rear on both sides. One reason I'm using as is is because of the close match to the original length and the 383 Mopar BB I'm putting in the car is offset to the passenger side as well. Any google search about Explorer axles will provide much more detail on length and shortening methods. Also as mentioned above the big deal with the Explorer rears is the 31 spline axle vs. 28.
  3. Hi guys, I recently acquired a large stash of 40s - 50s Mopar parts. I bought an entire stash from a life long collector because there was a fair number of trim parts I wanted for my 50 Desoto and it was easier to buy everything and then methodically pick through them for the things I need. I'm selling off the difference to get some of my money back. I wanted to offer the parts here first prior to listing but I can't list them for sale in the classifieds here because I think it's against the forum rules. Instead I have them on my local craigslist and started listing them a little at a time on eBay. Below are links to my current eBay auctions starting with distributor caps and rotors. I have a ton of mechanical parts NOS and Used with applications across various years. Also a fair amount of 49 and 50 Desoto exterior trim , bumpers, grills , etc. This includes some wagon and suburban trim parts too (not too sure of years and make though). I'm not trying to make a killing on these parts I'm just trying to recoup some of my outlay. Anyway if you're looking for anything in particular please PM here and I'll see if I have it. https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/vintage-mopar-parts-chrysler/6453662894.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/292403534627?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/292403512396?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/292403484586?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/292403459221?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
  4. It would be great if I could but I read this and thought it applied Commercial ads for businesses (full or part time) providing products or services are prohibited and will be deleted. This includes individuals with large inventory lists of parts for sale. I tried to check with the moderator to see if was ok because I do have a lot to list, although it won't be all at once. I didn't get a response so it's still not clear to me.
  5. Saw this for sale on the HAMB. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1087028/
  6. 49-52 Plymouth door to fender weatherstrip

    I have a 50 Desoto Convertible. I can try to take some measurements or make a template for you if needed. There is also a second picture in the Steele link you posted that gives the length if that helps.
  7. 50 Coronet project

    When I converted my 54 f100 to 12 volts, I used these 12v to 6v reducer.for the gauges and the larger ceramic resistor type reducers for the wipers and heater blower motor
  8. Intermittent Spark Help

    I'd be suspicious of a bad condenser. But whatever the cause, once you do find the problem and correct it check your point contacts to make sure they are on burnt. Also check to make sure your plugs are not fouled as a result of poor spark.
  9. Knob Removal

    On newer (fifties and up) ford and GM there is a spring loaded button on the switch body that you push in and the shaft and knob pull out. Don't know if mopar switches would be similar.
  10. Left me stranded

    I installed an audited last month. So far so good. I'm an Amazon prime member so I got it from there. Was $66. Also if you have rust in the tank and a strainer on the tank pickup tube the strainer can clog when under suction. That would starve your pump.
  11. Tire Tube Stem Size

    Did a search but didn't see any info. So here's the question: On a 41 Plymouth with 16" rims, does anyone know what tube stem size is correct TR13 or TR15? I need new tubes to go with the 600-16 bias ply tires that I'm about to order. My old tires are still mounted so I can't measure the size of the hole in the rim. My guess is TR13 but I'd like to know for sure. Thanks, Dave
  12. Tire Tube Stem Size

    Thanks for the replies. I bit the bullet and measured the stem hole on my spare. .625" which does indicate the use of a TR15 rather than a TR13, A TR13 stem would end up floating around the hole due to its smaller stem diameter.
  13. Tire Tube Stem Size

    This came up because two different websites recommend different valve types for the same tire. It's obviously wheel specific not tire specific. The wrong tube with the wrong wheel and the stem will either be too lose or too tight. The stem has a shoulder when pulled through the whole should just lock in. TR13 - This tire tube is designed to be used in a 0.453 inch rim hole and has a maximum inflation pressure of 60psi. TR15 - Designed to be used in a 0.625 inch rim hole and has a maximum inflation pressure of 60psi.
  14. Front Engine Mount

    Years ago I rebuilt the motor mounts for my A body V8 using a liquid urethane. It worked well but I don't remember the exact product I used. I know I chose it after doing a little research on different hardness properties. You buy it in liquid form and it cures at room temp. Of course you have to build an appropriate mold, which I made out of plexiglass and sealed with a hot glue gun. The product I used was something similar to this:http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Rubber-an/c6_1117_1147/index.html
  15. 236.6 cu in engine

    I would use ATF/Diesel and as mentioned above fill the cylinders and let it soak at least a week prior to trying to turn it. Also I've had good luck with Kroil, which is a fantastic penetrating oil.
  16. 41 Plymouth Convertible

    Last week I posted on the forum to get some opinions regarding this car. I ended making a deal to buy it so I thought I'd post back some info and a few picks. The car has an interesting local history, it was originally won as a new car at a race track by neighbor, restored in the 70's as a 4 h project by another neighbor and his 4 h group. Local shops donated services and taught the kids basic restoration skills. They then showed the car for a number of years at Frank Maratta's auto show here in Hartford. After that it pretty much sat in a shed until now. I spent some time today and got it running, it's just a real sweet car so no mods in store for this one, it's going to stay just as is.
  17. 41 Plymouth Convertible

    I looked at it twice. After the first time, my impression was slightly negative - "nice car but it's going to need some work" and I wasn't looking for another project. I went back the second time mostly with the intention of taking pictures so I could help the seller post it for sale in a few places on the web, including here. Also in my mind price was an issue b/c the seller had a professional appraisal that I thought was too high but I didn't want to low ball them. I ended up with the car because at second look I realized the 40 year old restoration has held up very well and the car was in much better condition than my first impression, it kind of has a nice gentle patina to it at this point. It also turned out that the seller was very motivated to sell it and also to keep in the hands of someone local and who they knew. I did however have to promise to go back and give the seller's 80+ year old mom a ride in it once it's back on the road!
  18. 1941 Plymouth convertible value

    Been a member here for a while but don't post much because I haven't owned a classic Molar for a few years now. I have a line on one I'm thinking about buying and thought I'd ask the experts here for opinions on value, so thanks in advanced! The car is a 41 Plymouth Convertible. Restored top to bottom about 40 years ago. Hardly driven since then but maintenance has been kept up. The car is part of an estate and I've known the owners for a long time. Car is completely stock. Condition wise it's a low 2. Paints is good but some chips here and there, not bad as a 10 foot driver. Top is in great condition but water stained from a storage shed roof leak. Tires nice but some dry rot. Needs a fuel pump. Gas tank is newish. Car was professionally appraised for the estate probate at $25K. I think that value is prob close but maybe slightly optimistic about condition. Any opinions about a fair offer value would be greatly appreciated. I've done some searching on the web but not too much info out there. Mostly dealer and auction sales.
  19. 1941 Plymouth convertible value

    Thanks for the input everyone. The points made are pretty much what I was thinking about possible condition issues. I'm going to take a closer look at all things that were mentioned and try to figure out a fair offer. Luckily I can do any needed repairs myself, but ideally I want it to be very close to a driver than yet another project of which I currently have several in progress. One reason I'm interested in this particular car is that it spent its entire life with only two previous owners both within about a mile of where I live. I've known various members of both families past and present since I was a kid and as an adult so it would be kind of cool to keep it local.
  20. Perhaps a new V8 for our 1947 Desoto Suburban

    I believe the Desoto will be about 5" shorter in the compartment b/c of the difference between the 8 and 6. I'm not 100% positive of this but I'm currently putting a Mopar 383 BB in a 50 Desoto and it does require some firewall modification around the back of the heads. I'm keeping the stock steering so that may be the difference also as the engine sits high and back to clear the center steering.
  21. Desoto Wire Diagram

    If you are still looking for a wiring diagram PM me and I'll scan one from my service manual and email it to you.
  22. Help - clutch or brake part?

    Hi guys Long story short, re-installing the engine out of my 50 Plymouth coupe. Prior to hooking up the clutch linkage I stepped on both the clutch and brake pedal. Call it temporary insanity. The cable in the attached picture ended up broken on the floor under the car. A heavy, about 1.5" spring, was also on the floor. I have the clutch and linkage installed and it seems to work fine so I suspect the cable and spring belong on the brake pedal because the brake pedal does not return anymore. I think the spring attaches to the brake pedal arm on one side and the cable to the spring then to the car frame on the other. My manual shows no pics. so I want to verify were the cable and spring actually go. Do any of you gurus know where the cable and spring go? Thanks for you help. Dave
  23. Help - clutch or brake part?

    Thanks guys that helps a lot.
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