vintage6t

In Portland, ME https://maine.craigslist.org/cto/d/south-portland-1951-plymouth-cambridge/7730673265.html

In Amesbury MA https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/d/amesbury-1953-dodge-coronet/7725826150.html

In Cambridge, MA https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/d/cambridge-1949-chrysler-windsor/7732720331.html

On CL. https://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/d/york-1949-desoto-desoto-desoto-only-805/7733339368.html Not sure the add is accurate as to numbers built. I found this info on another site: "The DeSoto DeLuxe (not Custom) Carry-All, introduced in mid-1949, used the regular trunk opening. DeSoto built 2,690 Carry-All sedans for 1949. Seat upholstery choices included all vinyl or broadcloth and vinyl. Chrysler would introduce its version of the Carry-All, the Traveler, in 1950. In July, 1949 DeSoto started production of the DeLuxe woody wagon – a 3-seat, 9 passenger affair with the third seat in the rear area of the wagon. 850 were built."

Sorry about your accident. Painful all around, but looks fixable. If you were trying to post an add, it cost $5. Maybe that's why it asked for a CC?

If you just want the joy of cruising in a classic, and not the pain, cost and time of making something roadworthy then I'd sell it. Buy a finished car to enjoy and do minor tinkering on when needed. Sad to say but in the long run you'll come out ahead in every respect. Given that there is not a huge general interest in those old mopars, with a little patience and a lot of looking I'd but you'd find something different for a very good deal.

Looks decent for the price. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1123627562143507/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined&referral_story_type=listing&tracking={"qid"%3A"-2522754316317032757"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"7501326719912749"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A7501326719912749%2C\"target_type\"%3A0%2C\"primary_position\"%3A6%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A2616896740624196427%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A504%2C\"value\"%3A0.00039975133397034%2C\"candidate_retrieval_source_map\"%3A{\"7501326719912749\"%3A111}}"%2C"ftmd_400706"%3A"111112l"}

The bushings are held in with a spring clip. The clip locates in a groove in the shaft I.D. and has "wings" that are positioned on the outer edge of the shaft. Squeeze the wings together to remove the clip. You can see one of the clip wings in the circled part of the attached picture.

Posted on the HAMB. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1949-plymouth-doors.1310429/

On the HAMB. $2,200 yikes! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chrysler-desoto-vintage-edmunds-engine-speed-parts.1256806/

Looks great as is. It depends on what aesthetic your going for but if wanted they can be made to look more like the original rubber. Spray on Plasti Dip or even a bed liner coating would probably hold up well in that location.

On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1949-51-dodge-3-window-wayfarer-nos-tail-lights-lower-price.1238647/

I decided to build a proper control panel for my engine run stand. I usually just connect various loose switches, gauges and wiring to the engine. I'm upgrading my stand so time to unclutter the control as well. The new control panel is made from scavenged parts. I gutted an old broken charge contoller from my RV for the gauge panel case and used existing gauges and switches for that. All external wiring connections are quick connect via a 7 blade trailer socket and cable. For the hand throttle I considered a bunch of solutions. Old bike hand brake levers, motorcycle throttles and so on. Nothing seemed satisfactory. Finally I came across an old heater control in my Mopar parts. Nice chrome housing, temperature slide lever used for the hand throttle and holes in the housing from defrost and heater controls for a choke cable and throttle lock. Perfect! I did have to extend the cable end of the temperature lever to get a long enough pull for full throttle operation but that was just a minor mod.

IMO it adds complexity and therefore additional points of potential failure when you're out on the road. I'd add one more component. Either carry a jumper wire or permanently wire in a switch across the the relay power terminals. Jumper of proper gauge or switch of proper amp rating to carry full amp load for your car. Then If you have a failure in your new disconnect circuit while on the road just install the jumper or simply close the switch and you'll be able to drive on.

On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1956-dodge-boyertown-body-milk-truck-delivery-panel.1307998/

As mentioned above, the center is spring loaded. Push in to disengage the retaining tabs then turn CCW. It may be a tight fit due to dirt trapped around the outside of the metal retaining ring so a bit of WD40 may help

The switch is dash lights. My 41 Plymouth has a stomp starter, Dodge could be the same. Look for a round pedal just above the gas pedal. If it's there you push it in with your foot to engage the starter.

On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1937-38-original-mopar-fender-skirts.1307587/

BTW - What's not mentioned before is that as a baseline for clearance, the engine should be installed offset to the passenger side. That's a common factory configuration on many Mopar V8s. Mine is installed with a 2+" offset. If your engine is centered in the frame you probably have unsolvable clearance issues on the driver's side.

No. I didn't change the column drop at the dash. If measured the steering wheel horizontal is at a slight angle in relation to the dash but it's not really perceptible to the eye.

I believe my 50 Desoto has the same steering setup as your car. What I did for my mopar 383/727 combo was move the entire steering box towards the driver's side. That was accomplished by making spacer out of steel plate and inserting it between the vertical steering box frame mount and the steering box itself. Offhand I don't remember the exact thickness of the spacer but I think it was 1/2". It required longer mounting bolts as well. I measured the steering angles of the wheels lock to lock before and after inserting the spacer and there was negligible difference in terms of turning radius. As mentioned above, mini starters are shorter but wider due to their gear drive. I tried one with a clockable snout and it didn't have any advantage over the stock starter. After shifting the steering box, I just used the stock starter.

The first picture shows you have vacuum assisted shifting. That's what the large canister is on side of the transmission and the winged shift knob indicate. With the car not running that mechanism can sometimes make it difficult to move through the gears. With the car running and it working properly it will allow you to change gears with the flick of your finger. If you can't shift with the car running I'd look at the vacuum assist mechanism first to make sure its operating correctly. Vacuum from engine hooked up, no leaks and that the canister linkage is sucked in or out when you move the shift lever up or down. Might even disconnect it from the shift rods as a start.

Picture is out of focus. However the small size of some of the gauge markings was definitely pushing the limits of the machine in terms of cutting resolution. I think the factory probably silk screened the original. In terms of trying to match, it is more about the result than the method. Spraying is easy, adding a luminescent coating on top to make the letters glow like the originals was a tedious task in hand painting and definitely effected the sharpness of the markings. Anyway for me results are acceptable. Here's another picture with a set of dirty old original gauges. The color looks off but it's really not when next to the NOS gauges that it will be grouped with. Sorry for high jacking this thread!

I actually don't own one. I borrowed one from a friend who uses it for crafting. Definitely can't justify the cost of new for a project or two but used ones come up for sale all the time. The work piece is held to the bed with a sticky mat. The Maker model will cut up to 2.4mm or 3/32". It will cut metal and leather with the correct tooling. I don't think cutting a gasket, even a thick one, is much of a problem.

Agree, very simple to cut out with a razor. If you want to get high-tech you can cut thecgaskey on a Cricut Maker machine. Search google to see people making gaskets on a Cricut. Either way I'd use regular automotive gasket material of the correct thickness. A bit off topic but here's a stencil I made on a Cricut for a custom gauge face.