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vintage6t

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Everything posted by vintage6t

  1. The OP claims the cylinder won't turn at all. Not sure how he's going to push in the release pin if the cylinder can't be turned.
  2. I suggested worst case drill out the key hole not the retaining pin.
  3. You can try lubricating the cylinder tumbler with a dry graphite lubricant made for locks. Just squirt some in the key hole and work the key in and out. Dont use oil or any other wet lubricant though. Also you can't get the cylinder out of the housing without turning the key. There's a small pin you can see flush with the outer housing. Turn the key and you'll be able to push the pin in, releasing the cylinder from the housing. If you can't get the cylinder to turn with the key and you're going to replace it, then just drill the cylinder key hole out. That will release the tumblers and then you'll be able to turn the cylinder with a screwdriver.
  4. Also make sure your battery connections are good and fuel delivery/carb is working properly. As for battery connections, clean all connections well and make sure you have a 6v cable, at least 00 in size, and not a 12v cable. A 12v cable won't deliver the current you need to start.
  5. Not sure of the laws there but here in CT you can only legally dolly a registered and insured vehicle. Otherwise all four wheels have to be off the ground, as in on a trailer or flatbed. If you pull the yoke of the driveshaft out of a transmission, as suggested above, isn't going to leak fluid out the back? In this case a moot point, won't the 47 just have a flange that the driveshaft bolts to and not a slide yoke?
  6. https://worcester.craigslist.org/pts/d/leicester-1940s-dodge-truck-pickup-bed/7674804455.html
  7. I'm not sure I'd jump into rebuilding the starter yet. As mentioned above take the plugs out and see if it cranks faster. With plugs in and no fuel or spark it's going to crank slow. Also make sure you have the proper size 6 volt batter cable and not a 12 volt cable. A 12 volt cable is not going to carry enough current to the starter. Also make sure your engine is well grounded. As far as soaking the rings the longer you soak them the better. IMO overnight is probably the minimum amount of time. Everyone has thier own favorite soaking mixture. I like a mix of ATF, diesel and a bit of acetone. The idea of the acetone is it thins the mixture so it will flow into tight spaces but then it quickly evaporates. It's also a powerful solvent. After soaking and if you can get it started you may find the compression jumps up after running for a while.
  8. In general I often find my local AutoZone stores have the parts I'm looking for in stock and at the best price. I always find the part # on thier website and bring them with me. While not always that knowledgable the counter help seems to always be helpful, even letting in the back room to look at hoses and such. I can even walk in and buy plasti-gauge of all things. Most every place else can get parts within a day or two. I find NAPA to be the most expensive by far and the store typically doesn't have what I need in stock. Not always but I've also found killer deals for things like master cylinders, starters and so on on Amazon. Prime free shipping and returns.
  9. One thing that I don't think was mentioned is to use a filter with the temp tank. Just like a permanent tank it can introduce debris into the carb. resulting in running issues.
  10. The collar probably is compressed on the nut side. You may be sorry of you do this but it may allow you to re-use the collar on a new tube: To get the collar off the old tube, carefully crush the old tube in until the collar will slide off. Once off the collar may not slide onto the new tube. If not put the new tube in the freezer for a few hours. Heat the collar with a torch and then quickly try to slide it onto the new tube. I say you may be sorry because if it doesn't work you won't have your old tube/collar stub to use.
  11. I don't know for sure but I would think the jack either builds pressure or it doesn't. The fact that it only pumps up halfway might be an indication that there's air trapped somewhere in the system preventing the proper amount of fluid being added. Pump it up and it runs out of fluid halfway up. So why not pump it up, top off the fluid, see if it will pump up some more, cycle it up and down and see if it will bleed any trapped air? Yes, the worst case is too much fluid that overflows out the fill port when you release the pressure.
  12. Again, just a guess. When it's half way up, add more fluid and see if it will start to go higher. It's possible it just needs more.
  13. Just going from memory so I could be wrong. I don't think you need to put the plug back in. At least if it's the fill plug. That reservoir is not under pressure, similar to a brake master cylinder reservoir. Keep the plug out and raise and release the jack a bunch of times. You may get some fluid "splashing" out but that's okay, just top it off when done.
  14. The "parking brake" on my farm tractor is sort of what you describe. Press in the brake pedal and push down a lever to mechanically hold the pedal down. The tractor brakes are not hydraulic though, just mechanical linkage to the rear wheels. You could do some thing like this. Cable/pulley from your old parking lever to the back of your brake pedal. Pulling the parking lever out pulls the brake pedal down. The parking lever ratchet will hold the brakes on. You would also have to cut power to the brake lights so they would not be on in parking mode.
  15. Not mine but on my local craigslist. No year given and the price seems a bit high. https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/south-windsor-full-set-of-vintage/7657914991.html
  16. Very rusty https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/winchester-1950s-dodge-job-rated-panel/7657546913.html
  17. Along the same line of thinking of the brushes hanging up. As a simple experiment, start the car and give the generator some taps with a rubber mallet. If it starts charging then the brushes are probably hanging. If it doesn't start charging that doesn't necessarily eliminate the brushes though.
  18. Really not much info in the ad. Looks like a heavy duty truck. If you're looking for parts or a whole truck may not be a bad deal. https://offerup.co/SJK6f1obtCb
  19. Might be running lean. Have you noticed higher operating temps as well? If so, connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold then slowly adjust the mixture screw for max vacuum.
  20. If you happen to have a Cricut Maker in the house then cut your own. Admittedly for the gasket you need it's complete overkill compared to what @desoto1939 suggested but way more fun.
  21. Looks like a solid car https://offerup.com/item/detail/1619622172
  22. I used to have a Hot Rod 34 Hudson coupe. Built 400 SBC. The stock frame was strengthened by boxing it from the front horns to the just past the firewall. That was sufficient for the engine's HP. My point is it is probably simpler to build off the stock frame. Not sure what you plan in terms of building the Hemi but you probably have to account for weight more than HP.
  23. Smaller is better than larger. Smaller has the possibility of trimming the lip to fit the wheel.
  24. Hardware store. I had a similar leak in the speed control for the 3 point lift on my tractor. Long story short - after unsuccesfully trying to obtain a very expensive rebuild kit, a hardware bought oring of the proper size fixed the leak. This cost less than a dollar and has been in service for many years.
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