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vintage6t

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About vintage6t

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Location
    CT
  • My Project Cars
    50 Desoto Convertible, 41 Plymouth Convertible

Converted

  • Location
    CT
  • Interests
    Classic cars

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862 profile views
  1. If you get them with aluminum necks like these then you can heat the necks to soften them and then "bend" them in or out as needed to get a little more custom fit in terms of how they function on your car. That's what I did on my old 34 Hudson.
  2. One thing not mentioned but shown in Dodgeb4ys' post above is the use of a fuel filter. A very good idea and I always use one myself. Prior to that I've had carbs that I just rebuilt get clogged from even a very little dirt that may be in the temporary tank.
  3. The last machine shop I used was the same. 6+ months to do a head. Before that almost a year to check and sleeve a block. I think the problem is that a job like that is absolutely the lowest priority and not a bread and butter money maker. Late model work and fleet customers with vehicles that are down due to engine failures take daily priority. Either keep on them weekly or ask around to find a shop with faster turn around.
  4. I think you need to research and see what another car that is more road ready and "finished" will cost. Compare that cost with having the one you already have repaired to a similar level. I don't know the answer but having the info will help you decide if you may want to keep what you have or sell. As far as parting it out, part it out to yourself first. What I mean by that is if you do buy another car and things like the trim on the one you already have is better, then swap in your better parts to the new car first and then sell the your car with the swapped out parts. Lastly parting out a car is a lot of work, time and effort, even requires mechanical skill you say you don't have. I'd make a clean break and sell the complete car. You possibly may make less than parting it out but time is money.
  5. Im interested in your u-joint kits.  I have a 48 DeSoto coupe.  

  6. I'm pretty sure I have 2 of these joints that came with a bunch of Desoto parts I purchased. No boxes so I cant tell if they are new and covered in Cosmoline and dirt or take offs. If they are take offs they have not been one a car for 20 or 30 years. If someone wants to send me measurement of the cap diameters, cross width, and hole spacing I will verify. I don't anticipate ever needing them so I would be willing to part with them for way under that Ebay listing. I also have what appears to be a replacement kit for the two winged caps/ holes. This kit is new as the card board needle bearing retainers are still in the caps. Box is marked 858002.
  7. I believe a 1" master will move less fluid than a 1-1/8 master and it's not proportional either. A 1" will produce higher pressure though. Given that your wheel cylinders may not be extending all the way and giving proper pedal feel. You may be able to adjust the brakes out to get the pedal but the pads will probably be dragging hard on the drums when done. Even if that works the brakes might be very touchy.
  8. I'd try a little lube like wd40 or even soak the pedal in hot water to soften it and then a little dish soap as lube when installing.
  9. I saw one for sale on the HAMB the other day: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1142201/
  10. Boy that is really something, fantastic job on the restoration!
  11. I know for Fords of the same vintage it is common to use an Ford Aerostar spring to lower and maintain handling. Here is one post from this site using the same application on a Mopar. Aerostar Spring
  12. I guess you could leave the built in 2lb valve to the front disks. For the rear drums though I don't think you'll get additive pressure if you use two valves in line. You will have 2lbs pressure on the input side of the external 10lbs valve instead of 0lbs without the built in valve. I'm not positive but it seems to me this will subtract from the 10lb output rating of the external valve making it effectively 8lbs or less. In other words, the 2lb valve up stream from the 10lb valve may try to hold the 10lb valve partially "open". This of course assuredly MC has built in valves in the first place and that they are both 2lbs meaning the original MC application is for a 4 wheel disk system.
  13. Does this look like the pulley you need? If so PM me.
  14. I think plastic chrome interior trim used a vacuum deposition process. I did also see a while back on an episode of My Classic Car a company that used a metallized substrate and then regular chrome plating on plastic and fiberglass exterior parts such as bumpers.
  15. Also try to match the number on the title to the engine number. That was common practice in a number of states. My 41 is titled this way.
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