steve57dodgetruck

Wow...amazing......so cool.....wow....drool

Wow, thanks for all the ideas! I will be playing with some design ideas for the sign and will post it later. Feel free to add new ideas.

I've been away from the forum for some time, distracted by my latest project ('72 /6 Plymouth Scamp). I have a restored, slightly modified, '57 Dodge D100 (pics in link in my signature). I show this truck regularly and always get more comments about the "old flathead" than any other component of the truck. Mopar shows are dominated by muscle cars and Hemi motors, so my flathead powered truck stands out in the crowd! I am also going to have my slant six Plymouth Scamp to a few shows next summer. I am imagning parking these two inline 6 motors among the sea of V8's and thought it might be fun to have a sign made (to put between the two vehicles) about the Mopar 6 cylinder engines that I love. So I am asking for help from this forum to come up with some Chrysler Flathead facts/details/specifics that would be fun to put onto such a sign. I want to highlight these engines durability, torque, etc. I'd also like to highlight how they helped advance the combustion engine. For example... - Beginning in 1938, the 201 cu in inline 6 was used in Massey Harris's Model 101. The last automotive use of the Chrysler flathead inline six was in 1959. The flathead remained in production until the early 1970s for industrial and agricultural use. -What made the flathead so versatile was its dependability and torque. The largest flathead six Chrysler used in its automobiles was 265.5 cubic inches that produced 218 ft/lbs of torque at 1600 RPM. So, at just off idle, this engine produced maximum torque. -The Chrysler Flathead engines were responsible for many things production engines have today. They were the first automotive engines to have Cam Bearings. They were also responsible for the Replaceable Oil Filter and Rubber Motor Mounts too. Please post any ideas you have that might be cool to include on such a sign. Thanks!

My temp gauge always reads hot but my infrared temperature gun gives healthy temperatures at the radiator, hoses, and head. I was at a show recently and talked to another flathead owner who said he resolved the same issue by putting a 1/4 ohm resister in between the sensor and the gauge. Anyone done this or have thoughts about it. I'm running a 218 block with 12v and original 12v gauges in my '57 d100. -steve

I bought mine from http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/parts_counter_3.html I can take a picture if you want. Probably cheaper to buy a replacement than to have one engraved. Let me know if h want me to take picture.

Replica Replacement tags, such as the one pictured, are available on eBay. You'd have to fill in some numbers on your own. I bought one and can give you contact info if a eBay search comes up empty. And I'll Give you a windshield that has some scratches but no cracks (from a '57 d100). I live in SE Ohio (Athens).

Maybe I'm missing something in the question, but I'm using the pertronix electrical setup that eliminates points etc. I know others are because I was turned onto idea here. It couldn't be simpler to install, maintains the stock dizzy and cap and is invisible unless you take the cap off. It has worked well for me.

Look up under the dash too. Mine is mounted on the Dash support brace.

Before Buying another sending unit that I'd have to modify to fit my tank I decided to send mine to a company that thinks they can alter the internals to make it work. If it works I'll post name and contact information.

Yes I have been doing all my trouble shooting with the sending unit out of the tank, so it isn't getting hung up. It is somewhat amusing I can only find a 6 volt unit, but I guess that is life. Collectors Auto Supply has a 12 volt unit....for $225! This 6V gauge I have is from Roberts, because "something was better than nothing." My original 12 volt gauge failed and I am kicking myself because i disposed of it before realizing that such things could have been rebuilt!!! I think I saved every other part i replaced during my restoration, but for some inexplainable reason I ditched the sending unit If anybody has any other ideas, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. -Stephen

I have searched the previous posts, but still seek additional help. I have '57 d100, original 12 volt everything. My gas sending unit failed and all I was able to find was a 6 volt replacement. The gauge reads between full and 1/2 (reads 1/2 when empty). *I have tried putting online resistors in between the tank and the sending unit, without success. With various resistors the range lowers (1/4 - 3/4) but can't get the entire range of the gauge. Suggestions?

I have been reading all the past threads that included the term resister and I think I've gotten more confused. I have a question about whether or not I should be running a ballast resister... 218 block, 12V system. When I bought the truck it had a 12v coil and an external ballast resister. When I tuned up the engine I sourced a 12-volt "internally resisted" coil and deleted the ballast resister. Am I going to fry my points without a external resister? Prior threads suggested that the "internally resisted" coils are not a good substitute for the mopar flathead electrical setup. Please advise. Thanks in advance for your help. Stephen

This group was very helpful during my flathead rebuild and my conversion to the BW R10 overdrive. I have finished my project and thought some of you might be interested in checking out a website I created to tell the story of the build and show pictures of the project. If your interested the link is: http://sites.google.com/site/steves57dodge/ Thanks for all your help. -Stephen

Hi, I'm new to the group and working on a '57 Dodge D100. I have a completely rebuilt 218 flathead from a '48 Dodge truck as my engine. I have acquired a R10 overdrive transmission that I am going to swap for my regular 3 speed. The overdrive transmission didn't come with the hand brake band. The problem I'm having is the brackets that connect the hand brake to the transmission are different between the standard and overdrive transmissions. I either need to find the correct brackets or fabricate some new ones. My preference is to find the brackets. I'm wondering if someone can tell me what other Mopar cars may have been equiped with the R10 overdrive? Or by anychance does some have a source for such brackets? Thanks, Steve