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B1B Keven

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Everything posted by B1B Keven

  1. Take one set of wires off of the fuel gauge. Read across both posts with an ohm meter. You're looking for something in the 25-45 ohm range. If so, the gauge is good.
  2. Welcome! On the drivers side ( your passenger) of the head, above the generator should be a flat spot with a number stamped into it. You can look it up here: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php Parts sources: https://www.vicsdodgegarage.com/index.html https://dcmclassics.com/ Where in in England? I've got a friend near Chichester.
  3. Disconnect wires from one side of the fuel gauge and read across the two posts with an ohm meter. You should see something between 25 and 45 ohms. If so, the gauge is good.
  4. You've got the terminals correct and it sounds like the sending unit is working. Some folks here have added a ground strap from the sending unit to the frame.
  5. Merle's right. Disconnect the wires from one of the posts of the fuel gauge and read across both posts with an ohm meter. You should get a reading between 25 and 45 ohms.
  6. Raffle is over. Thank you stylesadamson! You've got a PM.
  7. Bidding ends Friday the 15th.
  8. Thanks Mark! I finding some people buy these trucks and they're missing speedo's and gauges.
  9. I'm donating a speedometer service to help raise money for Tim's BBQ. '39-'56 trucks only. Bidding starts at $100. Let's help Tim pay for this BBQ!
  10. The stock gauges will work with a 12 volt system. The only thing you need to do is drop the voltage to the fuel gauge. Use something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Heavy-Duty-Electric-12-Volt-To-6-Volt-Reducer-Resistor-For-Fans-Motors/162723814029 The mechanical oil and temperature gauge are more durable and accurate than electric gauges.
  11. Shipping shouldn't be too expensive. I've got a friend that lives near Chitchester. She makes the trip across the pond every few months. Make she could take something back with her? What parts are you lookin' for?
  12. Welcome! Post some pictures of the truck! A must have for a B series owner: https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Trucks-Restorers-Collectors-Reference/dp/1583880879 The welting on the bulk head doesn't have any asbestos in it. Parts suppliers: https://www.vicsdodgegarage.com/ https://dcmclassics.com/ Pics of my old '49 B1B:
  13. https://hagensautoparts.com/dodge+-+truck/9-brake/2859
  14. https://hagensautoparts.com/dodge+-+truck/9-brake/2859
  15. I had good results with Red Kote.
  16. You're right. It looks like mid year '54 they changed from the 218 to the 230. https://www.allpar.com/model/ram/ram-trucks-C.html
  17. 29 spline 8.25 or 44 would be good. Glad to hear you're staying with the 218 ( or 230?). Lot's of 'goodies' for the flathead still available. We used to 'wheel with a guy that installed the Super 35 kit in his XJ. Held up to the Rubicon and Johnson Valley several times running 33's.
  18. Welcome, WJ rear axle swap might be an option? I think the bolt pattern is the same, just need to weld on spring perches. Fluid drive works like an old mini bike with a centrifugal clutch. No need to step on the clutch when coming to a stop. More pics please!
  19. I don't think John is out of business, I believe he let his webpage expire. https://www.facebook.com/pg/Pilothouse-Interiors-LLC-376213562472229/about/
  20. The outer (chrome part) unscrews. The center (head/panel) 'floats', stays centered, doesn't rotate with the outer part. ( Hope that was clear. )
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