David A.

I have an 802 in my 50, B2B. It is a tight fit, but it does fit. I installed the radio before I put my soundproofing on the firewall. I had to cut a notch in my firewall cove.

Yes, I used fender welting when I did mine. As ggdad said, it isn’t really needed unless you are going for originality.

My apologies for the wrong information. I looked back through my old paperwork, and it was advertised as being out of a 48 Chrysler. I don’t know why I had it in my head it was a Plymouth. Thanks for catching my mistake!

I too replaced the 4.10 center section in my 50 B2B with a 3.54 out of a 48 Plymouth. As Merle stated the axle spline count changed sometime later, but I’m not sure when. For me it was an easy direct swap.

Looking good! Those bed sides were the hardest part of my truck. It was a very long and tedious process. The worst part is that if you do it right, no one will ever know how much time and effort you have invested in it!!!

Nice looking truck!

Enjoyed the video!

Beautiful!!!

I feel your pain. I spent several months working on my bed sides trying to get them as straight as possible. Mine were also stretched badly and bowed. I tried using heat and jacks but never could get them to straighten out. I finally took them to a custom car shop that had a frame machine. They used that and a torch and got them pretty straight. It still took me a long time to get all the waves and dings out even after that. it just takes a LOT of time and patience.

That’s the same guy selling the NOS valve that appears to be making reproductions. He even shows a moparpro.com add in one of his pictures. That is probably the valve he used to design his reproductions. I guess he wants to get it sold before he puts his reproductions on the market.

Of course what works best for one person may not be as good for another. I didn’t have any help and this is the order I did mine. 1. doors- they are needed for fender alignment. It was easier for me to install all the door innards and glass after the doors were hung. 2. inner fenders- I set them in place so I wouldn’t risk scratching anything trying to install them after the fenders. 3. front grill piece- mounted it loosely and slid the radiator support as far forward as possible to make sure I had room for the fenders. 4. fenders- once tightened to the grill, you will need to shim the radiator support, and back fender support to make the rear of the fenders parallel with the front of the doors, and match up to the curved section of the door. Then slide the whole front assembly back towards the doors allowing enough room for the doors to open without scraping the fenders. 5. hood- I did have to enlist some help to put the hood in place. It was just too much for one person. 6. Bed- I assembled it first, then put it on the frame using a hoist. After the bed was in place I loosely mounted the running boards in place, then installed the rear fenders. Good luck!

I wish I lived near you. I would love to get some pointers on welding in patch panels. No matter how slow I go, I always seem to get too much warpage. You’re doing a great job! Can’t wait to see it finished.

That’s fantastic! Thanks for the pictures.

Congratulations! It looks like a nice truck.

Is this what you are looking for? I haven’t used the PM feature before, but if this is what you need, PM me and I’ll try to figure it out.

Nice looking truck!

I got all 4 of mine from Eaton Detroit Spring, inc. I am very pleased with how they look, and how they fit.

The 48 and 49 would have had stainless grill bars. To my knowledge no one is reproducing them. They come up for sale on eBay from time to time. The 50 models just had painted metal grill bars as standard but they would fit the 48 & 49 as well.

It’s been a while since I installed mine, but is that where the screw goes that holds the vent window frame in place?

The seal is not in the cable. It is in the transmission where the cable screws on. It isn’t hard to replace. If that seal is bad you will leak fluid even with a new cable.

Beautiful truck! Congratulations!

Yes, the seals go on the bottom side of the floor. They are thin, but at least on my truck they do keep the pedals from banging into the floor board.

I would be interested!

In Don Bunn’s reference guide book, on page 101, in the bottom left of the bottom picture you can see the small part that I believe he is referring to. When they moved the bottom door seal from the door to the cab they apparently put these small seals on the door edges. My B2B has the holes for them but I could never find anyone that reproduced them, nor did I ever see any that were in good enough shape to even see exactly what they looked like.

To my knowledge no one is producing those parts. If your originals are good enough one of the companies such as Steele Rubber may copy them and start producing them if they think there is enough demand for them.