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Johnny 5

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    St Charles, MO

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  • Location
    Miramar, FL

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  • Occupation
    engineer
  1. I have a new Street Rodder magazine that shows a 1949 Dodge coupe with a new hemi. Like was said previously the old ones fit easy breezy and the new ones are way smaller so shouldn't be a problem mechanically, just electrically (computer, 12V system, etc)
  2. I like to use vaseline instead of grease because it completely and quickly dissolves on the oil. Grease has the potential of balling up in places and plugging up the motor.
  3. Take this for what it's worth. I gather you're trying to clean out the chambers and piston tops right? It's easier and much more accurate to just get a head gasket and some new antifreeze, take the head off, clean the head with a wire wheel, valve tops too (closed of course), and pistons tops while at TDC.
  4. An old broom handle works too.
  5. Bad coil? They act up only when they get hot.
  6. IMHO the best setup on the market is the George Asche 3x1bbl. It's got the best of everything. Proper CFM requirement, straight shot to the intake and a complete proven system.
  7. The reason the Webers tend to run rich is because they're a bit large for a daily driver. If you put a realistic rev limit of 5200rpm on a flat six then it will need a maximum of around 350 cfm. At cruise it's only pulling a little over 150 cfm. Even the 251 Chrysler only uses ~160cfm at cruise and 380 at redline. The numbers are all rounded but I think you get the point.
  8. It's traditional to round up so a .060" over 218 displaces 226 cubic inches but no sense splitting hairs over less than 1/2 a cubic inch. When you overbore any engine the displacement increases accordingly. Just for giggles I punched in a .060 over 265 Chrysler. It comes out to 274 CID or 4.5L. Not too bad for six-banger.
  9. Anybody who wants my displacement calculator can email me an i'll send it to you. It's standard and metric, rod/stroke ratio and cfm/boost/rpm (0 fo rnon-supercharged).
  10. The 1st one is basically a car angine with an industrial intake and valve covers, the 'truck' 354 probably has true truck/industrial heads so an aftermarket intake and water x-over will be more challenging to fit but not impossible. The Desoto is something like 1-2" narrower on each valve cover, the Dodge is even smaller. You can put whatever engine you want in it, it's your truck. Flathead 6's weigh as much as small blocks too but people have more fun with them. They're not boring like cookie-cutter engines.
  11. You may be onto something with the distributor. Years ago I put a vacuum advance kit in my pickup with the lightest springs on someone else's advice. I didn't know any better. When I'd hit the gas, occasionally it would just kinda stop runnig for a second and then it would go again. Went through the carb, checked the timing, plugs, wires, fuel filter, vacuum leaks, and finally when I asked the guy 'Are you sure it's not the spring kit? I've tried everything else.' He said no way ------ so I replaced it with the stock springs. Problem solved. You may have sticky weights, a broken spring, leaky ar bad diaphragm, timing could be off, etc. This may not be your problem but it sounds like a good place to start.
  12. Find that flat spot, slather it with bondo, give it a nice, round shape, base coat, clear coat, good as new!
  13. I don't get that. I love sharing knowledge. If someone asks a question I'll be happy to answer it if I can. Sometimes people don't like what they hear or care to take good advice but my opinions are based on experience, not wikiworld data. I'm just trying to help. And hey, if I don't know something, guess what, I ask a question myself.......
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