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Everything posted by BobT-47P15

  1. Finally have the new aluminum radiator painted (around the edges) -- left the core unpainted. Have it installed and hoses attached. Replaced the top hose with one about an inch longer than the old hose.....reused the bottom hose. Used the ridged hose because the angle of the neck on the tank was still not quite in line with the neck on the engine. Tried a smooth hose and the only preformed angle hose I could find kinked too much. This ribbed hose is tough stuff and will bend a bit without kinking. I know some fellows on here do not favor the ribbed hose as it was not an original style. But....sometimes you gotta do different stuff. Have not driven the car yet to see how it performs on the heat gauge. Will have to do that in a few days. I did notice my fan is farther away from the back side of the new radiator......on the old one you could just barely insert a finger between the two. Now you can insert a couple fingers between. I guess this new unit is a bit thinner. I had to purchase an overflow hose at a local auto supply.......it was a pre packaged thing about 36 inches long.... which is just right.....but it was very flexible.......so I had to make a couple guides to run it thru to keep it in place. Even though the manufacturer sends a 14 pound pressure cap with the rad, Mr. Coatney advised me to replace it with a 4 pound cap from NAPA........which I did. They had to order from the warehouse and it arrived the next day. I covered the cap with my lovely chrome Cal Custom dressup cover. Have had it a long time.....looked for another on eBay and discovered one just like it for sale for $99.99 opening bid. Sure didn't realize they had gotten that valuable.
  2. I'm guessing your seats are original.......probably made of an early version of vinyl or some new (at that time) synthetic material on the light portion. There are some vinyl materials that look like leather with a grain in them. The problem is some things are not made nowadays......so where do you find a suitable replacement. I think my son in law got my seat material from a supplier in Kansas City that was going out of business. You may need to visit with an upholstery shop in your area and see what they know about various materials. Some shops that have been in business a long time have kept remnants of old fabrics tucked away on a top shelf and might accidentally have something you could use. If you have several shops, you might visit them all.
  3. I looked for some plaid material for a while in past years. Yes.......SMS is high. So I checked fabric stores......and learned that a fabric used in a car, especially a convertible, should be UV resistant. And most if not all home use fabrics are not UV treated. Someone suggested material used on boats and outdoor furniture......but I could never find a source of such material around here. (There has to be some place to get it.) So my son in law purchased some vintage fabric from a supplier in Kansas City....solid color tan and solid maroon.....which is very similar to what came originally on my car. My door panels and rear side panels were leather but seats were cloth. Leather was an available option.
  4. I just replaced my original radiator as the local radiator shop said he could not fix mine..........got a Champion aluminum for about $235.........masked off the core.......and painted the top, sides and bottom gloss black. I also had the upper tank neck reconfigured from a 90 degree angle, to one of approx 45 degrees. That was done at a local welding shop by making a pie cut in the top of the neck, removing some metal, pulling the neck up to a lesser angle, and re welding it back together. Probably a simpler way is to order the radiator with a straight upper neck. Had to get a new top hose (due to angle of that top neck and the fact the new rad is a little thinner than the old original) ... longer by about one inch, but the old bottom hose was usable. Haven't driven the car yet to see what it does in the temperature department. The radiator was a good fit.......but you need to replace the factory cap with a four pound cap, available from NAPA stores (they will probably have to order one in),
  5. I think, if I remember correctly,, I didn't want to take my vent apart so I simply cut the new gasket right in the middle of the rear side, then used some trim cement to make sure it stays in place. So far, no problems and it is not really very noticeable.
  6. Looks great. Nice color. With the trim rings, the wheels appear like original.. Are you using radial tires? They help to take up play in the front end and do not follow ruts and grooves in the road......make steering better. However, they are harder to turn at stop or very slow speeds. I have 2.15x75R-15 wide white radials on mine.
  7. I wonder if some outside company made a handful of those El Camino/Ranchero inspired conversions. They probably did not appear in Chrysler literature.
  8. Dodge made a regular pickup that looked like this.......which is obviously not the same as the one you posted.
  9. A few years ago, son in law bought some outside pipes.......we propped them up under my car to see how they would look. Didn't do much for the look in my opinion.
  10. Yes......I noticed those old custom touches too...........and perhaps fender skirts........along with a pretty original color scheme paint job. Please add a few more pics when you have time. Welcome to the forum.
  11. I think these days the deal is............use any number you can find that the state licensing bureau will accept......such as the number tag on the door frame. It is pretty permanent and should identify the car OK.....even though not how it was done in years gone by.
  12. And........I just remembered I found a date on a Plymouth block......on the driver's side below the distributor......which probably is a casting date of the block, and may not coincide exactly with when a specific car was actually built. The number shown is 6-2-53.......so it probably is not too far from when your car was built. Don't know how far ahead they stockpiled engine blocks.
  13. Hmmm.......interesting. Does look a bit better than home made versions. Looks like a 57 or 58 body style. The curved top tail gate looks rather professional. This is the first time I've heard about such a vehicle.
  14. I was looking thru some pictures in my online photo album and ran onto some pics I took when locating my serial number.....also used as a VIN in some places.......on my frame. It is on the left rear side, outside, about six inches in front of the gas tank filler neck. You will usually need to get out the wire brush to knock off paint, rust and whatever. On a Plymouth, that number begins with "P15" followed by additional numbers. These will be the same numbers that were stamped on the side of your original engine. If they don't match.....the engine has been changed/replaced with something.....be it from another car or a factory rebuilt. Since those numbers appeared on the original title as a serial number (they had not yet invented the VIN) many states used them on the paperwork. However some states have not used a title, so I don't know what numbers they used to ID a car. Nowadays with motor changes and such, some are using the little metal plate on the front door frame since it will not change with motor swaps. I don't know if this tidbit of information will be helpful to anyone, but thought I would post it anyway .
  15. I actually did use a stock shock on my 47 P15 after adding a Ford pickup mount to the frame. The other models of shocks, numbers given me by other members, were too long and bottomed out quickly. Actually I would like to find a different shock about one inch longer than my old one, but it has been working fine. The shock mounts I used look like this......
  16. Those two manuals have a lot the same info about the P15. What is anyone else's opinion? The rectangular tag on the fire wall is a body number. There is a rectangular tag on the left front doorpost that is a serial number. The number on the engine block starting with P15 (or other P number) is what they originally used as the serial number (similar to todays vin) on the title. That number can also be found stamped into the outer side of the frame just a little in front of the left rear wheel. May need a wire brush to clean off rust and crud to see it. If the engine number and frame number do not match, then the motor has been replaced at some time.
  17. I see by the interior pictures your car is indeed a Deluxe model. If you want to spiff it up to resemble a Special Deluxe, all the dash pieces should fit and I think you can replace the horn center with a S D horn center and ring. You will just have to look at Special Deluxe pictures to know what the differences are.
  18. One thing that goes out in these old radios is the capacitors as they dry out. Tubes may actually be good. Then there is a vibrator cannister, which may or may not work. Those can be found far as I know. If you know electronics, you probably can invent your own system. Then hook up a new style speaker with it. That is the deluxe model heater.....same as I have..... may need some attention or may work fine....just have to check it out. It will serve as your defroster system, if you have one in place. You've done good so far getting books......an owners manual and parts manual. The one on the lower right is the other thing you should have.....a Repair Manual. There is also info on Plymouth in old Chilton and Motors Manuals.....usually can be found on eBay.
  19. This is a pretty typical silver color engine in a P15. Somehow other colors often don't look quite right.
  20. I would personally recommend running radial tires......the old bias ply style are bad about following all the ruts and grooves in the road and you sometimes have to fight the steering wheel. Radials have the sidewall give and a newer tread design......therefore they track better. They are harder to turn when at a stop or moving very slowly. Is your car the two seat coupe or the one seat business coupe? The engine should be a silver color and most accessories attached to it are black. Or, at least that's what I did. I presume you know it is positive ground, with the positive side of the battery grounded to the block. Make sure all your parking light and tail light connectors and bulb bases are clean and make good contact.....and are grounded properly. If you have not invested in a P15 repair manual and also a factory parts manual.....you should do so soon. Reprints are usually available if originals are difficult to find. Addendum......on a P15 with 15 inch wheels....the equivalent of a 215 R 15 is the best size in my opinion.
  21. Have they sent you any cell phone pictures yet??
  22. My son in law went to an auction sale recently for the Crown taxi cab company in Kansas City who has gone out of business. They were selling everything including 8 Studebaker Larks (5 still running) which had been used as cabs at one time. I think the current fleet had been Ford sedans. Guess he didn't get a picture of one. He did buy me and himself "taxi" signs that go on the car roof.....brand new and unused.
  23. I don't know how they did the lettering either. If painting by hand, you can mask the letters off, but that would take a while. I just paint and keep a piece of cloth with some paint thinner on it handy.....if I go outside the line, I just wipe along the edge, then maybe go at it again -- or maybe the wipe cures the problem. As you probably know....the circle around the Plymouth name and the ship is NOT painted. Some have painted them but I prefer to leave it chrome.
  24. He apparently has some parts re-made. I bought two clear plastic pieces for a 47 Plymouth hood ornament from him at different times, for two different (but reasonable) prices. The quality is pretty good on those. But.....some folks on this forum are acquainted with the owner of that company. No further comments. Yes, talking with Neil Riddle would be a good thing. Might try Len Dawson at Deception Pass Motor Parts in Washington state...……. http://www.dpmotorparts.com/inventory_4_a.cfm
  25. Should look pretty much like these.
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