BobT-47P15

I think you can buy ball bearings to fit in those seat tracks at a hardware store or place where bearings are sold. Would need one original to determine the size.

My son in law Dale is working on restoring a 1961-1966 Ford f100 pickup for a fellow. When he got to the seat adjusters he thought they looked familiar. So he dug out an adjuster for his 1949 P15 which he rebuilt some time ago. Sure enough they were made almost exactly alike.....with the exception being that the handle to operate the adjuster is on the front end of the Ford item instead of the side. The Ford item uses ball bearings just as the Plymouth. As you can see, the length is very similar. So: the Ford track may simply bolt in as is....or you can probably relocate the adjusting lever to the side. Or if you can find one, just use the Ford item for repair parts. Thought I would mention his discovery as many seat tracks need repair. (Ford item on R)

COOL. Love seeing unusual cars like that. Thanks Robert. There were in their heyday also such things as 1940s and 50s stretch limos used by funeral homes. Some time back I saw a P15 made into a park sightseeing car....but now I can't recall where it was - in Canada I think.

Thanks for the pics.

Somebody, in a previous post, mentioned his car seemed to feel better/handle better with a couple passengers in the back seat who served to add weight. My car (P15 convert) feels a bit light in the rear....so for several years I carried around 3 old straight 8 cylinder heads I bought at junk prices. Placed them in that area between the trunk and back seat...so nobody sees them. I have since replaced those heads with a couple 60 pound sand bags in the same location. Get the same result....car just feels a little better and that amount of weight doesn't affect gas mileage or anything else. Two old timers--in an old timer. Taken a year or two ago. At the time, we were in an alley in downtown Joplin letting the son of a friend use the car for a prop in some of his senior (high school) pictures.

Years ago my rear brakes would lock up on me. I eventually discovered that short rubber brake line hose at the rear was the culprit. The outside looked perfect, but the inside was worn out ...would collapse not allowing return of fluid to the MC. New hose was the cure. You said you have all new lines.....so if you replaced the short hoses that came on the car, that should not be the cause of your problem.

There are various designs of rubber sheeting that might be used to glue onto the metal board. I believe you can buy one style at Lowe's home store.....usually used for a floor runner. There are others out there. I believe the topic has been discussed in previous forums. Granted most others won't be exact duplicates of original......but my take is --- 99.9 percent of lookers will not know if such an item is correct. Only you and certain Plymouth experts will know the difference. There is a fellow who makes a nice replica sill plate for P15 Plymouths, but you have to glue it in place. It was originally bonded to a metal piece.

Looks like a good time for all involved. Apparently I don't know who owns the blue P15 convertible. It looks very nice, as do all the cars shown.

Just for fun, I looked in both my P15 parts and service manuals and could see no listing for, or picture of, those deflectors. Wonder if they might have been aftermarket items installed by dealers.

OK. So what do a sprue do? And do you now have a good water tube?

I don't know if they ever produced a parts book just for the 53 convert.....some or all specific convert parts MAY be listed in the regular repair & parts books. Somewhere in my travels, I found a 3 or 4 page section on convertible specific parts for a '47 P-15. It may have originally been in of one of those huge parts books they had on the counter at a dealership back then. I either bought my convert pages on ebay or at a swap meet. You might check for such pages with Neil Riddle ---SEAPLYM on ebay). Also check with Dodge B 4 YA here on the forum -- a very knowledgeable man.

I am currently using a B F Goodrich branded radial tire from Coker, size 215-75R-15. I prefer these over the Coker Classics for quality and how the whitewalls clean up. Cost was right at $250 each. To me, they make the car drive better and do not follow ruts in the road like bias ply. They are a bit harder to turn when maneuvering in tight quarters or parking. Although they are radials, I have them install a radial inner tube because I don't know how airtight my 1955 Chrysler wheel spokes are. That system has worked for me for many years although you would probably want to go tubeless with a regular steel wheel. For a spare, I am now using one of those new radials from American Classic that looks like a bias ply....as it is narrower than the ones on my wheels and fits into the spare tire well. It's sized like 215-R15 I think. Also sells for right at $250.

Very interesting. And I thought I had seen everything about the average P15. Just goes to show ya. What will it be next???

I hope some or all of the removed pieces are in that box in the trunk......especially the wiper bases since they are exclusive to converts. Also the vacuum switch and cylinders for the top.

What Greg just said about the radio. Have had similar item before. The works of the radio are in the firewall box, while controls are mounted on the dash and connected by the cables. The knobs change stations and adjust tone and volume (or at least volume). It was probably installed by the dealership aftermarket.....as were the factory style radios. At least on 1947 models like my Plymouth, the antenna was mounted on the drivers side of the cowl....right on the curve. Don't know where they placed them for newer Dodges. Don't know about the gadget under left end of the dash...except may be a warning light that the emergency brake is still engaged. Is the grease they put on the lower portion of the car coming off.....and did it appear to have preserved things better than no protection?

I (and a friend) had some chrome work done by Highline Plating of Cuba, Missouri.....a small town in the general area south of St. Louis. We were pleased with the results and felt pricing was reasonable. They charged me (at the time) (3 - 4 years ago) about $400 to re-do a 47 Plymouth front bumper (without guards).....while another place would do triple show chrome on the same item for $1200. Just depends on what you want. Link: https://highlineplating.webs.com/

That slanted (probably rubber) item in front of the shock. A protector or deflector? Saw this among pictures pf a P15 convert currently for sale on E-Bay. The car in the ad.....says it is a 48 model. Link to the ad for reference purposes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124315049485?fbclid=IwAR0WE_WpaIeqVcVE3JbEevm5rpGszVD8pihPYe0jSg0AMRgqZeYDZfgCMyY

Hey.......thanks for the replies on the dash lights. I have begun looking under the dash and checking my connections to see if anything is loose or dirty. I have more wires under there now than there were at first.....having added turn signals, an underdash courtesy light, horn buttons and wiring for my oogah horn, siren and another old horn I have under the hood. Have removed the hood ornament light for the time being.....have purchased a small led strip light to use for that. I need to trace all those wires under the dash and make sure they are all joined together good. Seems like my dash lights used to be brighter. Rewired the headlights a while back with 12 and 14 gauge wire per the book. Had to look at the wiring diagrams for next models after P15 to find wire gauges. Always a project........

Looks like the fancy woody wagon of 1949 does have a center brake light whereas the regular steel body wagons do not. Found this pic....

Regarding service manuals......check on eBay under the year model of your car. Often there are two things for sale---good originals and reprints of same. Either is good. Another very good thing is a Parts Manual for the car. Has good exploded views and list of all parts used in the various assemblies. There are also other books like Chilton's and Motor's manuals that are sometimes helpful. NAPA stores sometimes have things we need for the oldies......and occasionally O'Reilly Auto has a few things that work. Otherwise, keep watching good old eBay and attend swap meets in your area......when they return after the cancellations due to the pandemic. Regarding the starting system.....make sure to install a set of "O" or "OO" gauge battery cables in order to best carry the needed current. I had mine made at a "battery warehouse" type store. Many old cars now have skinny 12 volt cables due to replacements.

Hello all. What designation or bulb number are you all using in the back of the speedometer in a 47 Plymouth P15? Since those two bulbs illuminate the gauges as well as the speedometer they need to be fairly bright. Mine work but are not real bright. Tried putting some stray bulbs I have in tonight and some of them essentially did nothing to help. I think the bulbs I have in there now may be the microscope bulbs sold by a fellow on ebay as extra bright. Any thoughts appreciated. Bob

Lots of good info there.....thanks fellows.

darn-------now....i need to check the tube i bought from bernbaum a few months ago. it is regular metal and was coated with that good old military stuff......cosmoline. Removed it with paint thinner.

Hi everyone. Hope you all are doing OK in the midst of this virus business. My question is: is there one BRAND of 6 volt headlight bulb (for a 47 Plymouth) that is any better or brighter than another. Not talking about the halogen....just the regular kind. The halogens I have on the car currently need a relay to cut down on voltage draw but I haven't gotten in the mood to tackle that project. So am thinking of simply purchasing a couple new bulbs to replace them. We have a few auto stores here: O'Reilly, NAPA, & Auto Zone to choose from. Or, there is the internet. And......what gauge of wire is best for headlights. I re-did my wiring to the lights quite a while back.......think I used the gauge mentioned in the repair manual. Thanks for any input. Bob.

One way to get a different, outside opinion is your local generator shop (auto electric place). They deal with such stuff regularly and might be able to do some tests with their equipment. They may charge for their services, but it might possibly determine the problem. I am thinking about visiting my local shop who can test for generator output and other things. I don't have equipment at home for testing. Just my 2 cents worth.