BobT-47P15

These old Plym parts just keep getting higher. You can "buy it now" on this nice clock from MrPlymouth for only $325. He calls it a very nice clock, so it is not nos-- even.

One source is Wirth's Custom Automotive: http://wirthscustomauto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WCA&Category_Code=cat_beautyrings They have both smooth or ribbed. $85 per set. Also is a ribbed set from Deals On Wheels on ebay.....Link to the ad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIM-RINGS-15-INCH-HOT-ROD-RIBBED-1-1-4-INCH-WIDE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34209QQhashZitem220070350101QQihZ012QQitemZ220070350101QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Of course, they can be found at swap meets in varying condition and prices. I also have a set of those real wide ones that go on under the small hubcap and go to the edge of the rim like a full wheel cover. The trim rings are sold by several different places....just have to look a while.

Both nice looking cars. It would appear some previous owner had installed some add on turn signal lights on the fourdoor.

Guess I should sometime check on mine. Has a '57 model Plymouth motor with a '50 Dodge head. No apparent problems with overheating.

Good old Snopes.......they always seem to have the answer, don't they??

Jim....not sure about your model of car, but in a 46-8 Plym, there is a small screw or bolt coming up thru the bottom of the dash to hold that ign switch in place. Otherwise, it slides out from the back.

Parts book says: Bulb, headlamp beam indicator..., single contact, 6-8 volt, one bulb needed. Then it says, for instrument panel: single contact, 3 candlepower, 6-8 volt, 2 bulbs. The part numbers are different on them, but may really be the same bulb. At least the same one would work if used.

The high beam indicator piece should look like this. It originally would show red when the high beams were on. Often the red lense has fallen out of the part over the years......but a new one can be made with a little ingenuity. There is a tube on the back side into which a socket with a dash light bulb fits. Click on thumbnail to enlarge. The part is shown in the lower left corner of this exploded drawing from the Parts Manual.

James, if Coatney is coming to town.....that sounds like Trouble, with a capital T, and that rhymes with P....and that stands for Pool. Yep, trouble right here in River City. Hmmm....that might make a song. What....someone already did that?? Well....you guys have fun. And give us a report.

Some stories by Curtis Redgap called "an insider's history of plymouth". On the Allpar site. Here's a link.... http://www.allpar.com/history/inside/plymouth-1.shtml

on ebay.

I'm sure this has been discussed several times before, but as usual I was not paying attention as did not need to do the procedure at the moment. What tools are needed to remove the rear axle shaft.....in order to replace the inner grease seal and perhaps the outer bearing. How hard is the thing to remove? Anyone have the bearing number for a 39 or so Dodge rear axle bearing???? If you recall, this is a '47 model car with older rear end from the late 30s. Any advice on this topic would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob

Noticed this ad today in a senior citizen local newspaper.

Sectioned......click on link to see a Ford shoebox coupe sectioned but not chopped. Kinda cute. At Nashville Good Guys show. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v96/BobT3/Nashville%20GoodGuys%20Show%20June%2006/Non-MoPar%20at%20Nashville%20GoodGuys%20show%206-06/100_1921.jpg

Probably will never know the real answer - might have been that good and that cheap...and bought quick.

In that DeSoto for sale ebay ad, the interior photo shows what the seats originally were like on many of the old MoPar ragtops. They could be leather and whipcord cloth.....or cloth & cloth. Mine in all cloth, but two tone with maroon in place of the brown, and grey in place of tan.

In that left hand picture, it looks like some of the infamous formica rocker panel trim.

I noticed in one pic that there is a pair of fuzzy dice hanging from the rear view mirror. 2. How far IS Far Rockaway, NY?? 3. Did you notice that they will include a set of Chrysler wire wheels?? Personally I would put them right on if they were in good shape. A new set of four of those is about $1600 now. Deduct the value of wire wheels, and the car itself is now down to $6400.

Tim, I went and looked at a Stude pickup for greg g sometime back and sent him pictures and info. Did not mind doing it at all..... The truck needed a fair amount of work, and he did not buy, but at least he then knew what it was.

Or, you could just remove the rear seat, build a shelf and have a unique business coupe. Wonder if anyone has ever done that?

I wonder how many people actually have an original key for their old car?? Surely they are pretty worn by now. It is a problem around here finding a locksmith who can make a new key to fit an existing lock. One guy goofed up my trunk lock a while back.

Tim.....here is link to a pic of the P15 fourdoor in the Parts Manual. More of a photo than a line drawing. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v96/BobT3/Parts%20Book%20-%20Other%20Literature/100_1053.jpg

Age 16 (1959), grandfather (on Dad's side) who lived upstairs in the same house as we did bought me a 1947 Chevy Fleetline 2 door fastback....cost $115....from the back row of a local Mercury dealership. He said "I bought your dad his first car, so I will buy you one". It ran pretty good, was in fair condition. Of course, I really wanted a coupe, but drove that car for several months. One day I drove it from my hometown of Aurora, Missouri to Springfield, a trip of about 35 miles. About a fourth of the way back home, the timing gear went out. So, there I sat by the side of the road. No cell phone, not enough money to hire a tow truck. Then, along comes a fellow I knew from high school....maybe two or three years older than me.....driving his '52 Olds. He stopped, asked what my problem was, then said he would push me back home. That was an interesting trip. The bumpers on the two vehicles matched up real well (thank goodness I had rear bumper guards). He would get going about 50 miles per hour-----then the rear of my car would start to shift to the left or right just a bit. He would let off the gas.....my car would jerk and straighten out.....then he would ease back up against my bumper and continue pushing. Went thru this process several times......I'm sure the old knuckles were white. Amazingly we got back home without any poblems. Didn't seem to hurt either bumper any. Don't think that trip would happen in today's world.

Robert, your coupe looks good in the photos I've seen. With that color, it reminds me of a 47 Plymouth coupe I had back in the 70s....it was a darkish blue when I bought it, then eventually had it repainted Chrysler Corp "Midnight Blue". Had painted MoPar wire wheels and skirts.....looked pretty sharp. Wish I still had it, but, ah well........

If you actually need a Plymouth manual, then Irv Bishko sells reproductions.....first is the repair manual like I have for my 47 Plymouth. His price is $35.95. Link to the ad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-1951-1952-PLYMOUTH-SHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34231QQhashZitem300066681753QQihZ020QQitemZ300066681753QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW He should also have the Parts Manual. The parts manual is orange for the Plymouth. Ebay is the easiest place to find those books.