Jump to content

BobT-47P15

Members
  • Content count

    12,390
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

BobT-47P15 last won the day on September 4 2015

BobT-47P15 had the most liked content!

6 Followers

About BobT-47P15

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Joplin, MO
  • Interests
    Old cars in general....especially older Chrysler products.<br />
    Blues and old rock music.
  • My Project Cars
    My only old car is the 47 Plymouth convertible.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Have owned the '47 Plym convt since '73. Enjoy driving it & improving it. Bob Toft (age 69)
  • Occupation
    Retired....play music for fun & small profit

Converted

  • Location
    Joplin, MO, on Rt 66. 47 P15 convert
  • Interests
    Old cars, particularly MoPars; old rock, & blues music.
  1. P15 / P14 Folding Top Operation

    A P15 vacuum top cylinder is made like this. The end on your right goes toward bottom of the cylinder. Basically, by activating the dash switch, the system vacuum sucks the cylinder either down or up. Some have said a small moistning around the edge of that bottom disc with neatsfoot oil (a footwear leather softener/conditioner you can find at walmart or the supermarket) helps limber it up to make better contact and hold the vacuum.
  2. P15 / P14 Folding Top Operation

    another view.
  3. P15 / P14 Folding Top Operation

    That line coming from the manifold to the firewall includes a hollow tube that looks like a miniature muffler....and in fact, the parts manual calls it a "muffler". I have always had that item in place, but cannot see or hear that it does anything particular. Have never tried going without it. Might not really be all that crucial, unless that section of hose might want to collapse due to vacuum. I have wrapped a couple pieces of chrome looking tape around my "muffler" simply for looks. .
  4. Gearshift

  5. Gearshift

  6. Paint Details Additional Plymouth Paint Information (Dodge is believed to be similar) Silver Black (Semi Gloss) Gray Unpainted Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Oil Pump Front Engine Mounts Mainfolds Clutch Housing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Heater Bypass Hose Starter Generator Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Holder Coil Air Breather Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Breather Brace Valve Chamber Vent Valve Chamber Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Filter Brace Steering Box Entire Frame Brake Master Cylinder Brake Lines Inner Front Fender Shields Radiator Side Shields Engine Dust Shields Hood Lock Plate Brace Horns And Bracket Bumper Supports Radiator Support Radiator Cross Bar Under Body Inside Floorpan Underside Of Hood Underside Of Trunk Lid Front Stone Guards Rear Stone Guards Front Fender Center Panel Grille Panel All Fenders (Inside) Inside Trunk Area Trunk Hinges Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side) Backside Of Wheels Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Shift rods
  7. I bought a pair of new reproduction rubber door sill plates for my P15 last year......still have not yet installed them. My old originals are still "pretty good" so I have been leaving them for now. I don't recall what type of plasticy rubber stuff they are made from, but they appear very authentic in their styling. One major difference is that the repros don't have studs on the bottom side for attaching same as the originals. The repros are smooth on the bottom and they tell you to use good glue to attach them. You have to NOT glue the inner edge of the rubber so you can tuck your carpet underneath it. The fellow who engineered these mats has them made by a certain company. Cost will be somewhere in the general vicinity or $250 or a bit more, depending upon shipping. The seller is Diran Yazejian of Bloomfield Hills, MI. (248) 646-0158. Email is djyaz@yahoo.com
  8. Report: 1953 Plymouth - What Owners Are Saying

    Here is an article by Allpar about the 54 Plymouths.......don't know if it contains any helpful info, but here it is: https://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/1946-1959/54-plymouth-cars.html
  9. Car shows

    They charge car entry fees at most shows around here in southwest Missouri. Like others.....some goes for charity, some for production costs of the show. $10 to $20 fees are common, with small discount for early registration. I usually go to two fall shows, one of which is the largest in this part of the country, and have a good time viewing others cars and visiting with folks. We have a cruise-in here every weekend on the parking lot of various businesses.....no admission fee, music by a DJ at some, sometimes a trophy or two perhaps to a car chosen by an employee of the business simply because they like it. That's fine. There are numerous other shows all around our area.....you can attend as many as you wish to and want to pay for. It's true, like Tim said, you are kinda stuck in a show till they give out trophies. At the cruises you can come and go at will. Usually when we take the Plymouth to one of these area events, it is the only 40s or 50s Mopar there. I did see a blue 1951 or 52 Plymouth business coupe at a cruise in recently.....did not get to visit with the owner so don't know that story yet. There were a father and son I met a few years ago.....each had a 40 or 41 Plymouth coupe, one pretty stock, the other a bit of a hot rod.....kind of a cool deal. I think they are still around here somewhere. I don't know how this group of pages ended up here, but I can't figure out how to get it out......so please just ignore it.
  10. Power Steering for a 1947 Plymouth-p15,Bus.Cpe.

    Now there are the new radial wide whitewalls (3 inch white) that look like the old skinny bias ply tires. Have you checked into those. About $250 each....from Coker or Universal..
  11. P-15 Convertible tacking strip

    As I recall, the man at Hydro E Lectric company in Florida said Cadillac used a vacuum system sometime during the 1940s. They supposedly can get cylinders, and perhaps parts......not sure about that. You would have to call them.
  12. Score 1 for the fatboy

    There was a young man on here some time back who went by Moose, and he made exhaust manifolds (headers). Don't know if he is participating here any more.
  13. rocker moulding clips

    Do you have one of the originals as a sample? There are some universal type clips as used by auto body shops available in many shapes and sizes. Probably one or two that would attach your trim, even if they do not look original. Some can be trimmed to the needed size. Are you acquainted with any Dodge parts vendors either personally or through eBay or other sources? They might either have some or tell where they think a person should look.
  14. slow vacuum wiper motors

    I have also read that putting some Neatsfoot Oil into the wiper motor, similar to what the video said about brake fluid, will soften up the leather in there also. Neatsfoot Oil is used to soften, condition and preserve leather items. Copy of a part of one article on neatsfoot: Neatsfoot oil is used on a number of leather products, although it has been replaced by synthetic products for certain applications. Items such as baseball gloves, saddles, horse harnesses and other horse tack can be softened and conditioned with neatsfoot oil. If used on important historical objects, neatsfoot oil (like other leather dressings) can oxidize with time and contribute to embrittling.[7] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it may cause darkening (even after a single application), thus may not be a desirable product to use when the maintenance of a lighter shade is desired. Neatsfoot oil is more useful for routine use on working equipment. Neatsfoot oil is often used to oil sign-writers' brushes that have been used in oil-based paint, as this oil is non drying and can be easily washed out with solvent at any time. Oiling the brushes reduces the buildup of pigment in the ferrule, the metal part that many brushes have to hold the hairs in place. Neatsfoot oil of the highest grade is used as a lubricant.[1] It is used in metalworking industries as a cutting fluid for aluminium. For machining, tapping and drilling aluminium, it is superior to kerosene and various water-based cutting fluids. The fat left over from the second pressing process, a solid stearin, is used for making soap
  15. Radiator swap question re P15

    Hi Knuckle..........being as I'm not a good mechanic and often do not have the handy dandy tool needed, I prefer to take the item to the shop and let the experts work on it. I don't really need to substitute the other (except for the heck of it as a test) since I hardly drive the car these days. I can sit and wait for the repair to be done.
×