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John Reddie

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John Reddie last won the day on June 22 2016

John Reddie had the most liked content!

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About John Reddie

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 01/07/1942

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    MA
  • My Project Cars
    2 1967 Plymouth Furys, 1 convertible, 1 four-door hardtop

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    former shipyard worker, school custodian, automobile repair
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    MA
  • Interests
    vintage american cars and old films
  1. help me please!!

    I had an experience similar to what you describe. On starting, the throttle spring broke and once started the engine went to full race so we quickly turned it off. After replacing the spring, no start. It turned over and over but wouldn't even attempt to start. A mechanic friend told me that when the engine raced up high like that, the sudden burst of fuel washed a good deal of the oil off of the cylinder walls and lowered the compression enough so it wouldn't start. A few squirts of oil in each plug hole and after replacing the plugs, it started and ran fine, smoked like hell for a bit but was okay afterwards. I realize that your engine is freshly rebuilt and I'm sure the compression is better than my old engine but I thought I would offer this experience in hopes that it could be helpful. Whatever happens, I hope you get started soon. John R
  2. any thing that can go wrong will

    If you are using a point type ignition system, this is what I did once. Removed the distributor cap and turned the engine over so the points were closed. I removed the coil secondary wire from the cap but left it plugged into the coil tower. Turned on the ignition switch and while holding the end of the coil wire with insulated pliers about a quarter of an inch for a good clean ground, opened and closed the points with a screwdriver. You should see a nice fat spark jump from the end of the coil wire to the ground. If you don't or the spark is very slight, then the coil could be the trouble. I was fortunate to have a spare coil on hand and when I hooked it up, the engine started and ran great. Good luck to you. John R
  3. Test with Photo

    This car belongs to a guy who works at a near-by auto repair shop. It has 34,000 original miles on it and is in very nice original condition. The previous was driving it and a piece of one of the pistons broke off where the rings are. I believe that the engine is apart at present and going to be repaired along with the fuel system and the brakes. The car has plastic yellow pieces that fit over part of the headlights. I have never these on a car before. John R
  4. Test with Photo

    It worked. Easier than the Photobucket way I have used. John R
  5. Test with Photo

    Hey, I've never used this form of photo posting on here but I am trying a test photo. It should work per the instructions here. Thanks, John R
  6. Look what I found!

    Really looking good Mark. Excellent color choice. John R
  7. 1931 Desoto Flathead Six

    I am thinking that due to the tail light shape and location that this car is a Canadian built 1939 Pontiac. I think that the lights were different on the US built models that year. John R http://www.collectorcarads.com/Pontiac-Chieftain/40562
  8. Head Gasket Replacement

    Great advice here. Oil those valve stems really well before you reassemble the head and gasket. Once you get the engine started and run for a while, you should be okay. After that, try to run the car often because sitting and not using it for long periods creates problems. Good luck to you. John R
  9. town sedan ??

    Thanks to all for your most informative responses.
  10. town sedan ??

    I am interested to find out if 1946 - 48 Chrysler and DeSoto cars were offered as town sedans as well as regular 4 door models. Below are the town sedan models that I recall: 1942 Plymouth - yes 1946 - 48 Dodge - yes 1941 - Dodge ( I think) 1942 - Dodge ( not sure ) 1941 - '42 - DeSoto and Chrysler ( not sure ) Thanks for any info here. John R
  11. Head Removal

    If the engine is still in the car, I use my engine crane to lift up the head once it is loose.. Bending over the fender and lifting up a heavy cylinder head can really put a major strain on the old back. I also use it when placing the head back on the engine. I can lower it down nice and easy and believe me, your back muscles and joints will appreciate it. John R
  12. I finally found out what this is

    I have been attending the same car show for a number of years now and always saw this '53 Plymouth two door hardtop there with this piece connected to the fuel line going to the carburetor (see attached photo). It is connected to a tee fitting . Today I was able to meet the owner and learn the mystery piece's function. He said it is some type of fuel shutoff that can be used as an anti-theft device. He said that his aunt bought the car new and must have had it installed at one time. There is a steel tube that runs from the piece before the carb and connects to a valve the is located on the dashboard. There is a slot for a key that is there and apparently cuts off the fuel supply when turned on. He said he has never used it but figures that the car runs fine so why fool with it. I fully agree. In all the years that I have been working on cars and going to shows, I have never seen one of these devices. John
  13. Head Removal

    Great tip Dave. If that doesn't do it, serious compression issues exist.
  14. Properly Using A Propane Torch

    This is true. I have had success with the MAAP gas torches but for large bolts or areas, the Oxy/Acetylene is best. John R
  15. ignition/electrical help

    This is what I would do. I have seen cars that were not run for years like yours come back after being started and run for a while. Sticking valves is very common on engines that have sat unused. Once it is running again, you can monitor oil pressure, engine temperature etc. Best wishes. John R
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