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Bobacuda

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Everything posted by Bobacuda

  1. Almost as much fun as replacing the water distribution tube. I had to put lots of PB Blaster on mine, but one refused to move. Following another person's advice, I used a hydraulic jack and a long block of wood with a plate of metal under the pin. Then I jacked it up to put lots of the truck's weight on the bottom of the pin and left it overnight. Applied heat the next day (while under pressure) and finally was able to tap it out. There are different length pins. Measure your old ones before destruction. I got mine from https://dcmclassics.com/15-Door-parts-and-accessories
  2. When our '51 Plymouth and our '50 Dodge engines had that, it was a bad head gasket. Dipstick looked like it had been stuck in an off-white milk shake. Is the radiator losing water?
  3. JB- Finding that B4B script is amazing. Getting that piece of Unobtanium off the dash without breaking it will be damn near magical.
  4. I don't know about the older than 1953 Dodge straight axles, but when one of my front wheels spun a bearing and wiped out the hub and spindle, I was told I could use one from any of the Dodge I-Beams from the '50's up. I got a set from a '69 1/2 ton short-wide that was a "miser," lightweight 6 cyl - the kingpins were the wrong size. I went back and got a set from a '69, full size Sweptline with a slant 6 - fit great. I am using the spindles, hubs and drum brakes. It goes without saying to use the wheel bearings and seals that fit the replacement spindles and hubs. So, from my experience, spindles (get the hubs and all the brake stuff, too) from the newer Dodge I-beams will work, just make sure that you have the correct King Pin size or a parts yard that will work with you if you get a set that won't fit..
  5. Fritz Von Erich, aka "The Iron Claw"
  6. Wiring! Either make your own harnesses based on the old ones (about $250) or buy them from Rhode Island Wire (about $1000). Mine were crumbling apart and I built my own harnesses with color coded wires made for 6v. Every truck I've seen near the age of my '53 either had unsafe, crumbling original wiring, scabbed together patches of wire of various - or monochrome - colors run all over the place, or it was properly rewired.
  7. Interior looking nice.  Did you sneak off and get your truck all back together and not tell us or show photos?

     

    BTW, after losing about a year to back injuries (long, stupid stories), the 67 Barracuda is finally at the body shop.  When I get photos of it blasted, I'll share.


    Bob

    1. Brent B3B

      Brent B3B

      Hey Bob, what truck you looking at? 😊

      haven't worked on “George” for sometime now.... I Am working on the worlds longest build with that truck. (35 years and counting, lol)

       

      Looking forward to the cuda photos. Just might be what I need to get back on track with George.

       

  8. I ran my truck's 6V starter on 8V for about 15 years - no problems and it sure helped with starting.
  9. Michael - I have restored a B4B, long wheel base with Fluid Drive. Take LOTS of photos and expect frustration on a regular basis. When you rewire it, make the wires behind the dash longer than original - it will make your life MUCH easier when you put it back together or have to change a light bulb (I wish someone had warned me to do that). If you get stuck on something, I might have a photo that will help. Oh, and if you have the one year only plastic Dodge emblem from the dash (Brent's photo), be darn careful with it and not club-fisted like me. The little metal clips on the mounting prongs work great for breaking off the prongs, and clumsy fingers are great for breaking the script. On top of that, it isn't really made of plastic, its made from pure Unobtanium. Brent's photo is the one from my truck that I kinda broke twice, glued back together, painted the back white and got mounted in my truck. Photo is my truck at Luckenbach, TX. Good luck working on your "Time Machine." Bob
  10. Great car man. Saved Ford and Chrysler. Too bad he wasn't young enough to save Chrysler from Daimler and the politicians that gave it to Fiat.
  11. Tex Smith's book has an excellent section on relocating the front shocks. Lots of other stuff and a great read as well. https://www.amazon.com/Build-Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge-Rods/dp/1878772171
  12. I insulated my cab much like you did, except that I now have the "fatigue mat" foam over the top of the "bubble insulation" you have in your photo. I think that is more than enough. It is insulated, quieter and it is "dark" behind the seat. When I put the rear covers in my truck. I had to custom fit the product on the sides and on around the gas tank tube. Since I am tall, the seat was jammed against them. Tough to move the seat where I was comfortable and the seat rubbing/hitting the back covers made lots of squeaking noises. On top of all of that, you could not see them anyway. I wound up taking them out and wishing I had saved the money. They are now sitting somewhere in my garage.
  13. Ever get tired on a 90 degree day and you don't want to go to a motel? This is not an "internet photo," I spotted this guy at a truck stop in my hometown today. The generator and the AC were running and people were having a good time taking photos of this urban camper.
  14. '53 has different rear fenders. Does the dash have a chrome metal plate in the middle or plastic script that says "Dodge" ('53 model).
  15. I am 6'1" and weigh about 325. Body shape is "old guy." The distance from the "face" of the back of the front seat to the steering wheel is about 17". The distance from the bottom of the steering wheel to the "face" of the seat bottom is about 7.5". That's more room than my '53 Dodge has. I fit in the Sambar fine, although it is a bit narrow at the shoulders (compared to what I am used to), and getting my feet in at the bottom of that door (foot has to clear front wheel well and the door jamb - see the photo I posted) are the greatest challenges - much like some of the UTV's I have been in. A 5'8" average size guy would have no problem. Unmodified engines of the Kei vehicles (Subaru, Honda, Daihatsu, Suzuki, Mazda & Mitsubishi) have been ruled compliant by EPA. All of these little trucks look pretty much the same and by law have the same dimensional sizes, engine size, hauling capacity, etc. regulated by the Japanese government.
  16. I don't know about other states, but a 25 yr old one is considered a "classic" by the EPA so the engine clears that hurdle. Since the Fed accepts them on the road, Texas will as well. I have to get the local sheriff's department to look at the serial # on the frame and compare it to all of my paperwork to show that it is not a stolen vehicle, next the Japanese title will have to be converted to a Texas title in my name (the paperwork to do so was part of the deal), then I have to get insurance, a safety inspection and plates. I start that process on Thursday. I see that a lot of folks in Canada opt for the Suzuki or the Daihatsu versions and attach snow plows to them (those two are more suited for lifting, oversize tires and the snow plow).
  17. So, for several years I have wanted a Polaris type vehicle. However, the price tag ran me off. Just over a year ago, at a swap meet I met a guy using a Japanese mini-truck to set up his wares. His was a Mitsubishi, and he was very informative and allowed me to sit in it (too small for me) and he told me that a Subaru Sambar or a Daihatsu Hijet Jumbo cab would probably work. So, I started researching them. I took the plunge and imported a 1990 Subaru Sambar from Japan. It is a rear-engine, 660 cc 4-cyl, 5 spd, with a low-crawling gear, 4 wheel drive, fully independent suspension, and it has a heater and AC. It will carry 750 lbs. And yes, it is smaller than a US truck - it is the size of a Polaris. Vehicle price was minimal, compared to the exporter's fee, shipping, US import taxes, etc. Roughly $3.5K total from Japan to off the boat in Freeport, TX. That price is much less than even a used Polaris UTV's that needs work around here. I'll post some other photos and my overall impression with it when I get it licensed (bureaucracy takes time). Here it is in Japan. Either I made a good deal, or I have given my family another thing to laugh at.
  18. Another week of 80 degree weather forecast. I like getting my ice from the freezer... Snow is for Snow Cones
  19. When the Harrah's Auto Museum in Reno was still intact and on display, my wife and I drove to Reno just to see it....spent a great day there - it took a full day to see it all. After the Harrah heirs sold out to a hotel chain, quite a few of the cars were sold off or shipped elsewhere. I often feel like I was lucky enough to see a "Wonder of the World" before it fell apart and became a shell of itself. Please report back and tell us how big the place is, how long it took to tour and what were your impressions of it.
  20. These are great stories. The first car to traverse the width of the US was a Winton, in 1903. https://www.history.com/news/the-first-great-american-road-trip The feat was repeated by the first woman to make the journey in 1922 in a Maxwell. Hard to imagine how fast the roads and auto industry has developed. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/alice-ramseys-historic-cross-country-drive-29114570/
  21. (I posted this back in 2009, tells how I did it, leaving the Bell Housing in the truck.) I pulled mine Saturday. Pretty much old school type job. Hope you have a good shed with a concrete floor. Get a reliable helper that is strong enough to help. Lots of "on your back work" if you don't have a lift. Lots of crawling up and down, chasing different wrenches, too. Block the wheels and totally disconnect your battery if it is live. Take photos before you remove stuff to help with putting it all back together. Put your parts and labeled bags of bolts where you will know how to and where to reassemble them. Sounds corny, but it really helps. I took the floor pan over the transmission and the first narrow one toward the firewall out to make access (and light underneath) better. Then I removed the hood, radiator, and disconnected every wire or sending unit to the engine (including the battery cable that is grounded on the top of the trans) and removed everything possible - starter, generator, oil filter and lines, distributor, fan and water pump, manifolds, carb and linkage (disconnect from linkage that is bolted to back of engine) and I disconnected the exhaust. Be very careful with your temperature guage's sending unit. They are made from "unobtanium" and break easily (guess how I know). I put the front of the truck on jackstands after that to have more room underneath. With that done, I crawled under the truck and disconnected the speedometer cable, emergency brake cable and the transmission shifter arms. Then I took the nuts off of the driveshaft yoke where it bolts to the back of the transmission. After that, I put the rear of the truck on jackstands and disconnected the driveshaft at the rear u-joint and removed the shaft (it is heavy).  Four bolts hold the transmission in. Best to use a transmission or floor jack or that really strong helper when removing the trans. Next, take the cover off of the bottom of the bell housing. This will allow you to get to unbolt the clutch. I popped the throwout bearing out, unbolted the clutch and removed it out the bottom. My truck is a fluid drive, so I still had to take out the "torque converter/flywheel." If yours is a regular old standard, you will have to remove the flywheel. Both are heavy and clumsy when you are on your back. To get to all of the bolts, you will have to turn the engine over by hand, either from underneath or with a big socket and breaker bar on the nut that holds the belt pully to the crankshaft (that is what I did). While I was doing this, my son removed two head bolts on opposite sides of the engine (R side, bolt #3 and L side, bolt #5). We put the chain for the hoist between the bolts. Hoist in place and a little lift, we took the engine to bell housing bolts out. There are two on each side and the two at the back of the engine that also hold the rest of the carburator linkage. Keeping the hoist tight, we removed the two bolts that hold the front motor mount's "saddle" to the frame. Now, only the hoist and two metal alignment dowels on the back of the engine into the bell housing were holding the engine. My engine was somewhat stuck to the bell housing, so I put WD 40 on the alignment dowels and used a long screwdriver between the bell housing and the block to get them apart-didn't take much. Once that was done we hoisted it up and out, then mounted it on the engine stand. Now that I have the engine out, I will have a much easier time rebuilding the brakes (master cylinder - put your new one on before you reinstall the engine or you will regret it) and I'm going to break down and rewire it. My kids have threatened to have me committed if I don't repaint it. From start to finish, counting numerous breaks we were at it about 7 hrs. I don't remember it taking as long the last time I took one out, but that was 15 years ago. This should give you some idea what to expect. I would suggest that no matter how little you plan to do to the engine that you consider replacing the water distribution tube (which is also a PITA to get out). Every one of my old flatheads always seemed to have corroded or blocked distribution tubes. Good Luck!
  22. Quick look. If you were to buy it, you best be very gifted at sheet metal fabrication or you better have a real good boneyard to find the damaged pieces of that grille - or you better be ready to pay about 1/4 of what he is asking for the truck for them. I noticed the back wheels are too far forward, which makes me think it is sitting on the jeep frame. I also noticed the back fenders are welded to the bedsides...makes you wonder why. Take a good look at the profile - the "nose" of the truck looks elevated (that could just be my uncalibrated eyes) and the hood does not sit right (that is visually correct). Once again, probably a frame swap or the radiator support was cut up and now the nose is too high, the hood is not correctly anchored and the hood wings cannot close correctly. I am not a fabricator or a body man, and as much as I like these old trucks, I would keep looking.
  23. My condolences to all in Alabama. This old rock has heated and cooled so many times in its history. The last ice age was not that long ago (Little Ice Age - 1300 - 1870). For you history buffs, look up the Galveston Hurricane of 1900. It took an estimated 6,000 to 12,000 lives in September 1900 and is considered the deadliest hurricane in U.S. history. It was reported that calls for help could be heard buried under sand and rubble, but no one could get to those people. Or there was the Indianola Hurricane (TX) in 1886. It is the sixth strongest hurricane known to have hit the United States, and by winds, it is tied for the fifth most powerful hurricane to hit the U.S. mainland. It completely removed one of Texas's busiest seaports from the map - it was never rebuilt. Only a few pilings remain today.
  24. After looking at all of the winter snow photos, thought I would post one of my truck on Feb 17, a winter's day in Texas! About 64 degrees F, but the high for tomorrow is expected to be 48 degrees and rainy...
  25. f_armer - it was 70 + just a couple of days ago just NW of San Antonio. I imagine Dallas wasn't bad, either. Would have felt like mid-summer for your daughter.
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