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Bobacuda

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Bobacuda last won the day on February 7

Bobacuda had the most liked content!

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About Bobacuda

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    Old Mopars and Texas history
  • My Project Cars
    B4B, 1954 Chevy wagon, '67 Barracuda convertible, '70 Barracuda convertible, '74 Barracuda

Converted

  • Location
    Deep in the Heart of the Texas Hill Country
  • Interests
    Old Mopes, wildlife and aquatic biology

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Professional biologist

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  1. Almost as much fun as replacing the water distribution tube. I had to put lots of PB Blaster on mine, but one refused to move. Following another person's advice, I used a hydraulic jack and a long block of wood with a plate of metal under the pin. Then I jacked it up to put lots of the truck's weight on the bottom of the pin and left it overnight. Applied heat the next day (while under pressure) and finally was able to tap it out. There are different length pins. Measure your old ones before destruction. I got mine from https://dcmclassics.com/15-Door-parts-and-accessories
  2. When our '51 Plymouth and our '50 Dodge engines had that, it was a bad head gasket. Dipstick looked like it had been stuck in an off-white milk shake. Is the radiator losing water?
  3. JB- Finding that B4B script is amazing. Getting that piece of Unobtanium off the dash without breaking it will be damn near magical.
  4. I don't know about the older than 1953 Dodge straight axles, but when one of my front wheels spun a bearing and wiped out the hub and spindle, I was told I could use one from any of the Dodge I-Beams from the '50's up. I got a set from a '69 1/2 ton short-wide that was a "miser," lightweight 6 cyl - the kingpins were the wrong size. I went back and got a set from a '69, full size Sweptline with a slant 6 - fit great. I am using the spindles, hubs and drum brakes. It goes without saying to use the wheel bearings and seals that fit the replacement spindles and hubs. So, from my experience, spindles (get the hubs and all the brake stuff, too) from the newer Dodge I-beams will work, just make sure that you have the correct King Pin size or a parts yard that will work with you if you get a set that won't fit..
  5. Fritz Von Erich, aka "The Iron Claw"
  6. Wiring! Either make your own harnesses based on the old ones (about $250) or buy them from Rhode Island Wire (about $1000). Mine were crumbling apart and I built my own harnesses with color coded wires made for 6v. Every truck I've seen near the age of my '53 either had unsafe, crumbling original wiring, scabbed together patches of wire of various - or monochrome - colors run all over the place, or it was properly rewired.
  7. Interior looking nice.  Did you sneak off and get your truck all back together and not tell us or show photos?

     

    BTW, after losing about a year to back injuries (long, stupid stories), the 67 Barracuda is finally at the body shop.  When I get photos of it blasted, I'll share.


    Bob

    1. Brent B3B

      Brent B3B

      Hey Bob, what truck you looking at? 😊

      haven't worked on “George” for sometime now.... I Am working on the worlds longest build with that truck. (35 years and counting, lol)

       

      Looking forward to the cuda photos. Just might be what I need to get back on track with George.

       

  8. I ran my truck's 6V starter on 8V for about 15 years - no problems and it sure helped with starting.
  9. Michael - I have restored a B4B, long wheel base with Fluid Drive. Take LOTS of photos and expect frustration on a regular basis. When you rewire it, make the wires behind the dash longer than original - it will make your life MUCH easier when you put it back together or have to change a light bulb (I wish someone had warned me to do that). If you get stuck on something, I might have a photo that will help. Oh, and if you have the one year only plastic Dodge emblem from the dash (Brent's photo), be darn careful with it and not club-fisted like me. The little metal clips on the mounting prongs work great for breaking off the prongs, and clumsy fingers are great for breaking the script. On top of that, it isn't really made of plastic, its made from pure Unobtanium. Brent's photo is the one from my truck that I kinda broke twice, glued back together, painted the back white and got mounted in my truck. Photo is my truck at Luckenbach, TX. Good luck working on your "Time Machine." Bob
  10. Great car man. Saved Ford and Chrysler. Too bad he wasn't young enough to save Chrysler from Daimler and the politicians that gave it to Fiat.
  11. Tex Smith's book has an excellent section on relocating the front shocks. Lots of other stuff and a great read as well. https://www.amazon.com/Build-Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge-Rods/dp/1878772171
  12. I insulated my cab much like you did, except that I now have the "fatigue mat" foam over the top of the "bubble insulation" you have in your photo. I think that is more than enough. It is insulated, quieter and it is "dark" behind the seat. When I put the rear covers in my truck. I had to custom fit the product on the sides and on around the gas tank tube. Since I am tall, the seat was jammed against them. Tough to move the seat where I was comfortable and the seat rubbing/hitting the back covers made lots of squeaking noises. On top of all of that, you could not see them anyway. I wound up taking them out and wishing I had saved the money. They are now sitting somewhere in my garage.
  13. Ever get tired on a 90 degree day and you don't want to go to a motel? This is not an "internet photo," I spotted this guy at a truck stop in my hometown today. The generator and the AC were running and people were having a good time taking photos of this urban camper.
  14. '53 has different rear fenders. Does the dash have a chrome metal plate in the middle or plastic script that says "Dodge" ('53 model).
  15. I am 6'1" and weigh about 325. Body shape is "old guy." The distance from the "face" of the back of the front seat to the steering wheel is about 17". The distance from the bottom of the steering wheel to the "face" of the seat bottom is about 7.5". That's more room than my '53 Dodge has. I fit in the Sambar fine, although it is a bit narrow at the shoulders (compared to what I am used to), and getting my feet in at the bottom of that door (foot has to clear front wheel well and the door jamb - see the photo I posted) are the greatest challenges - much like some of the UTV's I have been in. A 5'8" average size guy would have no problem. Unmodified engines of the Kei vehicles (Subaru, Honda, Daihatsu, Suzuki, Mazda & Mitsubishi) have been ruled compliant by EPA. All of these little trucks look pretty much the same and by law have the same dimensional sizes, engine size, hauling capacity, etc. regulated by the Japanese government.
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