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Bobacuda last won the day on February 27 2017

Bobacuda had the most liked content!

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About Bobacuda

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Old Mopars and Texas history
  • My Project Cars
    B4B, 1954 Chevy wagon, '67 Barracuda convertible, '70 Barracuda convertible, '74 Barracuda


  • Location
    Deep in the Heart of the Texas Hill Country
  • Interests
    Old Mopes, wildlife and aquatic biology

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Professional biologist
  1. Mystery project

    You are making your own HALO wing to go with your jet-pack?
  2. Building a Garage...Input Appreciated

    I wish I had asked this question back in 1994 when I built my first shop. If I had, I would not have needed to build my second shop. My new one is a 2 bay shop made to house a 2-post lift. I went with the 2 post so I could pull the suspension without interference or the need for additional lifts. Got to admit, I may still get a 4 post sometime in the future (easiest oil change, vehicle stacking). Figure out who's lift you are going to buy and ask them about building requirements before you build. My lift folks told me that I needed 14' of clearance from the top of the slab to the ceiling and that the slab will have to be at least 5" thick. Once again, your lift company will have the specs. The company I bought mine from installers - two guys working about 8 hrs, using lots of tools I did not have. I am glad I paid them to do it. My shed has drive (or tow) through access to the lift. I plumbed air from the compressor in one of my other sheds to the new one. Plan on where you want the compressed air and how you are going to run the lines (not PVC). I put a 240 V plug on each end of the shed (middle of the shed, between roll up doors) so that a welder could be run where ever it is closer. I also installed electric plugs every 10' on the side walls, about 4' up from the slab. That way plugs are about work bench high, and I don't have to bend over to plug something in. If you can afford to build your shelving now, plan them out as well. Make sure they are heavy (and large) enough to hold tools or parts. Leave access to the electric plugs. I put in LED lights. They were not that expensive. Finally, decide how much of your new shop (and shelving) will be converted to general storage by your wife and kids (guess how I know this one...).
  3. Wiring Harness

    One other thing, if you are going to continue with a 6 volt system and you plan to use a rewire kit, make sure the wires are the proper gauge for 6 volts.
  4. I thought the new CA law was about weed smoking, not weed whacking...
  5. So, my part of Texas has been freezing the past several days, which made me wonder, "Will my truck start?" 25 degrees (30 predicted high for the second day in a row) and it fired up. Will wonders never cease? May not seem like much to you folks that are used to freezing weather, but having any 6V flathead start in cold weather has not been a common occurrence without the aid of ether, a long slope or jumper cables. I am familiar with my family's '41, 49 and 51 Plymouths, as well as our '51, 53 and 58 Dodge trucks. All of them were cold natured and required outside forces and divine intervention to get them going when the temp got anywhere near freezing. Once they started, all was well the rest of the day. This same pattern held true for all of the flathead vehicles of any make that we serviced at the gas station I worked at as a kid. BTW, I have always envied you folks that are able to run your 6V flatheads in the dead of winter. Hopefully, this is a new trend for my truck.
  6. Wiring Harness

    I did all the wiring in my B4B using cloth covered wires from Rhode Island Wires, including the cost of adding directional signals, for roughly $270. Took me two weekends and several hours a day after work. You won't find a "drop in" set of wiring harnesses, specially with cloth covered wires anywhere near that price.
  7. Plymouthy beat me to it. I have found and purchased one from a person on the FABO forum. I was also informed that the A Body convertible interior rear view mirrors are for A Body convertibles only.
  8. PA - I've tried the images search and so far, all of the photos I find are of the bodies, close ups of the dash or the engines. I haven't seen a photo that I can reliably (or even use with slightly more than a hope and a prayer) use for a reference. That's why I was hoping someone has a Hollanders.
  9. I have discovered that my 67 Barracuda convertible is missing the inside rear view mirror bracket and mirror. I have been through the Plymouth Shop Manual and found nothing that helps. I do not have a parts book. I have tried numerous searches and I am having "Luddite Hell" trying to log in to a couple of Mopar sites that should have some info. Does anyone have Hollanders that can look up what inside rear view mirror brackets and mirror fits a 67 Barracuda convertible for me? I need to know if I am looking for Unobtanium that is vehicle specific or if there is a suitable replacement. Thanks for looking...and if you have one to sell, contact me .
  10. Starting next project - 1967 Barracuda

    Since I plan on retiring first of February, I would say this is a retirement project . I bought this one at (wait for it), a garage sale about 15 yrs ago. I went with my wife and spotted this in the garage (did not and does not run). I got the owner down to $2300, begged my wife for the check book and understanding, then had to line up a friend with a trailer to take it to my house. Due to kids in school (HS then college, then getting them started in life...), I did not have the funds to do anything until now. So, with the truck done, this one is next.
  11. Got my new shop at the house (with a lift) built, air lines and electric installed, and I am almost finished building shelves and miscellaneous support stuff. With that in place, we pulled our '67 Barracuda out of its garage (more like a barn) slot to move it to the new shop. Formula S (original 273 blown up and replaced with plain Jane 318 before I bought it), automatic, PS, PB, no AC... and oh BTW, it's a convertible. Not much rust and only missing a few hard to track down parts. We pressure washed the mud daubers and loose dirt off before towing it into the new shop. Hope to start inventory and tear-down this coming weekend.
  12. B3B sheet metal alignment question

    I used old mud-flap shims on the front, under the radiator mount and on the supports that bolt to the part of the fender that has the two large rivets. Made some 1/8" shims from an old conveyor belt to help fine tune the alinement. It took quite a bit more shimming than it originally had, and since there was some welding done to replace some "capture nuts" on the fender brackets, not everything lined as much as I wanted. I put the front grill on, then the hood. I centered everything as best I could, using the hood to cowl gaps and a tape measure. Next I put my wheel wells under the hood (for later) and attached the fenders to complete the doghouse. I think I unbolted, re-shimmed and re-aligned that damn doghouse for two weeks, using the door gaps and the hood to cowl gaps as my guides. After all of that, I finally remembered that my driver's side of the hood was "a bit twisted" thanks to a brother-in-law. All in all, I discovered that what really helped me was knowing curse words in three languages.
  13. Mine looks like that, but it does not have the "brand name" on it.
  14. Speedo cable ends

    I bought a new cable with housing to fit my B4B (with Fluid Drive) off ebay, and it was not that expensive. Fit great. Here's an example https://www.ebay.com/itm/53-54-55-56-DODGE-C-SERIES-TRUCK-SPEEDOMETER-CABLE/360671142008?epid=1157765729&hash=item53f9ace078:m:mOmF9z9ykqNbARiLC5nqT1Q&vxp=mtr