1949P17BC
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Everything posted by 1949P17BC
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CAUTION, let a sleeping dog lie (sludge) I would be carefull trying to break it up in the system, You will pump it thru the entire motor. If you are concerned, pull the pan and clean it that way
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Jim, Once Clifford knows you that's the kind of work and service he will do. He has done the same thign for me a coupleof times. Its kind of cool picking up a parts thats still warm!
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You will now a lot when you pull the head off. Odds are good it will need to be bored, pistons and rings. Then you might as well, put in bearings, then you might as well put in new valve guides, seats, a couple of vlaves and springs, then, then, then you get the story. If you need a good machinest in the St. Louis are let, a friend of mines knows how to build flatheads the right way, let me know.
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All, where can I get a picture and details for the correct width and setting for the wheel pin stripping. For my 47 I know the color is white, and there are three stripes, thin, thick, thin. but I would like to know the exact sizes. Heading to the POC June meet and its worth 1 more point!!!!
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Shawn, good luck. I remeber that night well, youshould of let us haul it to the show on Saturday to get get in running. Best of luck, Mark (49 black business coupe from Missouri)
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Yes and or No, If you keep the orginal, both front and rear are pushed from one resevoir and you will need to add residual valve in line. If you go to a dual resv MC, you wont need to do this. I wnet with the orginal, its new and I didn';t want to spend more time and money converting
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Just switched my 47 over to newer studs. I screwed up a set of drums. Take it a machine shop that can press the new ones in. I did however pull one stud and went tothe part store , looked thru their book and found a perfect match (car studs I believe are smaller)
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I have done it plenty. The secret is a little goes a long way, not if a little is good a lot will be better. The only reason you want to do it is to spin it fast the first time to get it started and then make the need timing and carb adjustments. Its not to crank and crank to try and trouble shoot things.
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I have done two, both replaced bearing, race and seal from PlyDo
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Odds are good you have some blockage in the line (#r#p) Waht I would do, is disconnect at the fuel pumps and blow air into the gas cap area , it will git r flowing
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Do it all of the time make sure everything is off. Dont grind, grind, grind and grind. Just enough for it to catch. once its starts unhook. Also if it won;t start I let everyting cool down between tries
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If you are geting some spark, then you are half way their. 1. Make sure you are getting fuel to the carb 2. Check the cap, points and coil wire. amke sure everything is clean and tight 3. I would hook a 12 volt battery to the six and give it a couple of spins to see if it will start. If it doesnt then I would replace the coil. I have had the same sympton, it was the coil wire between the cap and coil, I have also had coils go bad. Your close
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Sales, I call on the US Airport System, NFL and MLB stadiums helping them achieve their sustainability and LEED certification goals. Lots of travel so it gives me a great chance to look for stuff and attend car shows across the country. So far all of the National POC meets have been part of my work travels. Next stop Portland See you soon!
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Bob, just got back, a little over 750 mile round trip. Lots of fun getting caught up, I really appreciate the wheels you found, and better the deal your freind gave me on them, original paint, still have the accent stripes, stored inside for who knows how long. Later this week I will take them and have them checked to make sure they are straight sandblast, prime paint, remount. Scratch that from my list for the Plymouths to Portland trip.
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I just did my 47 with a Rhode Island Harness, Perfect fit, any and all extras you might need, and very good direction and easy to do it. For the money its the way to go. No mess just unplug and re plug it in.
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I am running the original 16 inche wheels with my front disc and 11 inch rears. Works fine
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I need a title for a 47 plymouth business coupe
1949P17BC replied to LTROYMCD's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Who did you buy the car from? Start with a bill of sale or somehting saying how you got the car. Go to the DMV ( I have the best luck going to a rural DMV office who tends to have more experience with these issues) I have heard both sides, EZ and Hard. Austinsailor recently posted his experiences. Good Luck -
Thanks for this new addtion. Had a need for my speedo service, looked up Scott & Sons,in Pontiac MI, sent it off, He fixed it right away better than new. The link section made this task a whole lot less painfull. View the section and add people you know.
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Ed, here it is
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When you get the :"newer motor" compression test it, degrease it, I would pullthe pan and clean out the oil pump filter and any sludge, Pull the valve covers and clean them out, check the valve clearance, If it was me, and the compression was decent I would order a gasket set, clean everything new gaskets and paint it up, its a lot easier while its out than trying to do it later
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Ed, having been married for 28 years now, You need to set the standard early for "seperate vacations" My wife get 3 and I 5, so I have plenty of my time for car shows and trip. Just kidding, easier said than done, EZ to talk big when they aren't around
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Its been so cold this winter I haven't seen mine for weeks.. The rusty nuts and bolts on my 48 Dodge that is
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Speedometer problem '48 Pilot House
1949P17BC replied to Monkey Truck's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I am sending mine off to Scott & Sons Speedo Repair, call and see if they can fix yours 248-338-4148 -
Anyone have the schemetic/Pats list/exploded view for a 47. I have a worn part, not sure of its exact name. Description, piece mounted on head that rotates , attached to a threaded rod that swivels in its connector
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EZ with that "Geezer thing" I m not as old as I look. Well yes I am, but I feel young!