Frank Blackstone

For year 1st pops out so I have used 2nd for years until now I can insect inside. 20 years ago I chested out the transmission and replaced some gears , blueprinted what parts I could and it ran for years. Now I am into replacing throw out bearing. I need guidance how to get past shift lever yoke( Y shaped end holding retainer ) that holds bearing. Manual says 1st pop out can be countershaft end play(check through side access plate A/s/above) (shim fix) or wear of other parts( requiring disassembly).

Sniper Thanks for the info and even with that they could not even order either one. keep your eye on the ridge line.

Andyd It is good to hear from you and that you are still active. I have not been on here for years but remember you and your wisdom when Don Coatney was here. I still miss him and his wisdom to decipher my posts for others to understand . I am going to leave it alone as all work must done with engine installed. DodgeB4ya gave excellent pictures and detailed instructions that convinced me I can not do this from under the car and do a good job. Like Dirty Harry said" A man has got to know his limitations." So thank you to you both.

For engine 1120804-3 does Felpro B53141 73004 list as the correct rope type rear main upper oil seal for my P-15 Beside bitching about how hard this is to do please offer any constructive ideas. I have frayed the end of the rope trying to install by pushing.. No parts store has or even heard of a sneaky pete puller. Reviews say they break easily. Wire mesh cable puller appears to be too large for opening. I have loosened the 1st, 2nd and 3rd bearing caps, lubricated the rope with silicone grease and used picks to push in the rope but only goes 1/2 way. Never goes far enough to see anything coming out. Manual useless saying remove flywheel (requiring, transmission , drive shaft removal) to access seal retainer plate .OK to think outside the box Beside bitching about how hard this is to do please offer any constructive ideas. I have frayed the end of the rope trying to install by pushing.. No parts store has or even heard of a sneaky pete puller. Reviews say they break easily. Wire mesh cable puller appears to be too large for opening. I have loosened the 1st, 2nd and 3rd bearing caps, lubricated the rope with silicone grease and used picks to push in the rope but only goes 1/2 way. Never goes far enough to see anything coming out. Manual useless saying remove flywheel (requiring, transmission , drive shaft removal) to access seal retainer plate .OK to think outside the box Beside bitching about how hard this is to do please offer any constructive ideas. I have frayed the end of the rope trying to install by pushing.. No parts store has or even heard of a sneaky pete puller. Reviews say they break easily. Wire mesh cable puller appears to be too large for opening. I have loosened the 1st, 2nd and 3rd bearing caps, lubricated the rope with silicone grease and used picks to push in the rope but only goes 1/2 way. Never goes far enough to see anything coming out. Manual useless saying remove flywheel (requiring, transmission , drive shaft removal) to access seal retainer plate .OK to think outside the box

The glue method I used for body work as recommended by a professional as stronger than a weld was the FUSOR 108B system. The 2 tube applicator gun was $40.00. The metal was 18 G sheet metal . The application was of a thin layer of adhesive that was then riveted every 2 inches for 4 feet of a quarter panel. I would consider Semmerling idea that the adhesive may need to be as thick as the bonded metal. Maybe in layers to achieve desired thickness. Interesting idea and I would try it myself in no alternative was available. Or just to try something to see if it will work.

The original fuel pump was missing a valve assembly where one could have been installed. The pump worked fine for years but diaphragm failure necessitated a rebuild. I installed the 2 new valves from Mopar Pro supplied without instructions. When the installed rebuild pump did not pump I looked closer at the manual's exploded view of dissembled pump. The values appear to be installed in opposing directions. This makes sense as to why a missing valve could allow a pump to function. Any comments or opinions are welcomed. Thanks, Frank.

The PT-6 is referenced in the manual as being used to temporarily hold rocker arm and link assembly while fuel diaphragm pull rod is hooked to the link. Anyone know what this tool looks like? I do not find pictures of specialty tools in the manual. Thanks, Frank

The pictures "Another view..." seem to work if I left click then choose Firefox. I agree it may be a relief port that is venting due to a leaking diaphragm . I will disassemble and inspect and replace as needed. I will check this site for a replacement

fuel pump close up.htmanother view of fuel pump.htmanother view of fuel pump.htmanother view of fuel pump.htmanother view of fuel pump.htmfuel pump close up.htmfuel pump close up.htmfuel pump close up.htmfuel pump close up.htmIn the P-15 triangular shaped recess of the fuel pump body there is a very small hole. The hole appears to be OEM because I did NOT drill it. During engine operation there comes a great spray of fuel. Bench testing confirms this malfunction. Manual does not show or talk about this hole. Why is it suddenly spraying" liquid gold" from a normal running engine"? Is it a relief port that operates only when something else is blocked? I have refrained from filling it with a pin or screw. Or JB Weld. Any thoughts about function, or blocking of hole or it origin will be appreciated. View my picture of the hole fuel pump close up.htmanother view of fuel pump.htmfuel pump closanother view of fuel pump.htmanother view of fuel pump.htmanother view of fuel pump.htme up.htm

The connector for the fuel line to the gas tank seems to need a male O ring connector on the line. The tank bung seems to be 1/2 inch 20 thread count. The Dorman Company nowadays offers only metric connector. I need a source for the male o ring connector and correct me on the size if I am wrong. Thanks Frank

Is there a recomendation for an upgrade to the new technology for headlights of my P-15. I could not find any at the parts house that for sure were 7 1/4 inch diameter that for sure would be better. $20 per light is a lot to gamble for a test of improvement.

The Anchor Screw #2 , that adjusts clearance of anchor bracket, is missing from the emergenecy parking brake on my P15. I have installed a replaement screw but am wondering if a nut is needed somewhere in the assembly. The manual picture does not show or mention a nut but it seems to me one may be needed. I miss Coatney being here to edit my posts to make them more understandable.

OK Don So I don't want to make this an more difficult , which I tend to do, than it is. Since the coil is 12 volt and I am using a 6 volt battery do I need the resistor that is necessary for a 12 volt system? Sometimes I need step by step information. You KNOW me.

Well O' Reilly's where I have an account, could not find anything about the coil, points or condenser. They could only offer a universal coil with no specs. of output voltage. They needed parts number. I remember the old site had part numbers so am I missing therm here? Any help would be appreciated. I am doing this all by phone as I do not have transportation to go the 6 miles to O Reilly's or NAPA. Thanks, Frank