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CKHughes

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Forest, IL
  • Interests
    Skiing, motorcycling, fly fishing, hiking, camping

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  • Biography
    My Dad bought a 48 Pilothouse in the early 70's for $100. I drove on farmland in WI when I was 12
  • Occupation
    Banking/Finance

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  • Location
    Atlanta
  • Interests
    skiing, motorcycling, fly fishing

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  1. would be great to confirm this: Just to confirm the needle end (pointy) of the needle valve points towards the fuel supply (front of the truck) and NOT toward the carb and float bowl, correct?
  2. Drove 60 mi. RT to a NAPA that had the carb rebuild kit (CRB 25066A - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dCRB%2b25066a%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3dCRB%2b25066a%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0). Unloaded a can of carb cleaner on it and it is quite clean now. Still FLOODING the intake manifold. Just to confirm the needle end (pointy) of the needle valve points towards the fuel supply (front of the truck) and NOT toward the carb and float bowl, correct? I filled the bowl and measured 5/64" from top of carb to topped out float. seems to close the needle just fine. If anything, when the float drops down, the needle stays seated. I'll assume the flow of fuel will push it back? The only thing I did not check was the main vent tube as the instructions indicate you need a special tool. Is that true and if so, where do you get one? Could that be a culprit? Also left the step up alone as it moves up and down freely. I may have reached the limit of what I can do... .
  3. Ok, so I took carb apart which was easier than I thought. Found this very useful manual - in case it could help others: http://c809017.r17.cf2.rackcdn.com/carter_bb_manual_1939_later.pdf My pump jet was clogged...could not see light through it and then pushed a needle through and cleared it out, then "saw the light" . The float is fine - submerged it in water and then dried it. main jet looks ok except for the gasket which is a little suspect but how can you test that? I'd replace if I knew where to get one (that is without waiting a week to have a whole kit by web purchase which I found here: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-BB-BBR1-Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit_p_56.html. Manually pumping the fuel valve on carb, that little pump jet squirts like crazy now ! Was all excited to reinstall carb and take a road trip. Could not start ... The gas floods to the bottom of the carb where you can see it about 1/2 inch deep in the manifold (specifically it is at the bottom of the box the carb is bolted to). The little tank I am hooked up to (about a quart) gets sucked dry just cranking it? I do not get how all the fuel is getting sucked through to the bottom of the "box" so fast? And why isn't it getting pulled into the engine and starting? While I am less daft than before through forced learning, I remain relatively clueless on what is happening. Could the main jet gasket cause all this if it is no good? the float jet "looks" ok...the little spring gets compressed when the bowl is full and the float is topped out. Any diagrams on the path the fuel takes once in the carb? Any suggestions on the next steps would be most welcome.
  4. So 48 pulled out of about 2 years of storage...running when stored. Cleaned out fuel pump and carb glass bowls and am running from small plastic tank just below fuel pump. It ran for 3-4 seconds on starting fluid. I noticed the carb ( Ball & Ball DTC1) has a severe leak at the valve/flap that dumps gas into the manifold. The leak is on the outside of carb (see round pin end in photo). I am fairly certain this is the carb I had rebuilt a few years back but I also have a D1E2 and many spare, left over gaskets from the NAPA rebuild kit. This pin/valve does not appear to have a paper gasket that I can see...does it need to be fully disassembled and what do I need to make it stop leaking? What should I pay if I have a shop rebuild the carb? Which model B&B should I rebuild? Is there another carb(s) that would work and is that a better, more cost effective way to get the truck running? is there a You tube on rebuilds or a shop manual online somewhere? thanks Chris
  5. Thanks to those who provided useful information
  6. So I moved and the movers removed wires from the terminal posts on the drivers side. there are 3 posts with nuts....Does it matter which wires go to what posts? Need help and I plead ignorance ..Thanks, Chris.
  7. Need the weight of '48 B1B flathead 6 engine without transmission. I need to ship it with a moving company and they want the weight to calculate the charges. Does anyone know how much it weighs? thanks, Chris
  8. Who has the best glass rubber at the best price? Should I go with Roberts? for 1948 B1B.
  9. Can anyone recommend a black paint to touch up the gauges?
  10. I had a radiator service restore my original gas tank with a black coating on the outside and red on the inside. The problem is that the gas is turning red which I assume is from the coating. Of course the shop is now out of business so I have to correct this myself. Is there a coating I could add that will fix this? Other ideas? I need the rubber gasket for the top of the glass Carter fuel filter. Anyone know where to get one? Thanks Chris, 1948 B1B
  11. I had a radiator guy repair and coat mine. The rust through was not apparent until he boiled/cleaned it. He said it was borderline but said he's give it a shot. I have now had gas in it for about a year and have not yet had a problem. Good luck. Chris in Atlanta
  12. I bought a column mounted turn signal switch for my 48 B-1-B. I prefer not to add blinker buckets on the front and was wondering if anyone has successfully converted the parking lights into turn signals/parking lights? Sorry for my ignorance: if you swapped out the single wire and single contact with a dual wire and dual contact and then used a dual filament bulb, would you be able to make it blink with the switch?
  13. Thanks for the great ideas. The imperfections on the wheels seen under the powder coating do not bother me at all. In fact, I kind of like the idea of the "patina" finish you refer to. Here comes an opinion I could buy an SSR if I wanted it all to look new. Fortunately, I find no bondo as the box is already stripped down. If there is something small, I will go the JB weld route. Now comes the the tricky part: calling back the coater to see what $$ he would need to do it. I will post my results. Thanks again!! Chris
  14. I just picked up my wheels with gloss black powder coating. They look awesome. So good in fact, I am contemplating having the box done in gloss black powder coat. Has anyone tried that? Seems like it would be do-able, no?? thx, Chris
  15. Mario, Looks great. I have a 5 and 7 year old and need to put seatbelts in. Would you mind sharing where you got the belts and how you installed them? thanks, Chris
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