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Plymouthy Adams

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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams

  1. while the dual reservoir master is safer it is not an end all to brake problems when used alone. You should install a combination valve...(differential valve)...this device will serve as hold off on the front while the rear engages then allow front pressure and equalization....if a line fails from there the pressure of the other side will force a piston to close flow to the fault side and allow the built in electrical switch now go to ground and illuminate a warning light placed on the dash....in disc front, rear drum...the average joe will not know he has a rear problem till he sees a puddle...or in the case of most late model dual piston masters but single fed reservoir...loss of fluid and the eventual reduction of force applied to the front...all this time however...you have been ignoring that little red light on the dash...so even with this...many people just don't maintain as they should..
  2. the vin number should tell you..why guess.....engine is usually always X digit in the sequence....but if I were to guess.....360... look to the 5th digit...in 1977 this would be....c=225 d=440-1 e=la313-1 f=360-2bbl J400-1 while I quoted a 77 as I have the Voyager service manual on my desk now...the format is available on line just for looking...
  3. that police officer look like a SOB for sure (south of border) this could explain some vintage patrol car apps maybe....
  4. On the flattie..do not confuse the need for the exhaust valves and hardened seat insert with the intakes...I do not see on my blocks that the intake has inserts...these normally stay cool due to the flow of fuel cooled on intake....and as there is no high lift or aggressive cam profiles that allow slamming shut but rather a gentle closing via profile of the cam ramp...the need for hardened on intake is moot....a closer inspection of your block should show a defined circle that is the parting line block/seat for the exhaust.
  5. I wish I could.....it is a shop around....and for the most part our members here often post the better buy/product in that regard this forum is a fair clearing house for what is the true value.
  6. as a electronics tech for umpteen years...we referred to this as taking a 'short' course in electricity......
  7. what a shocking realization...
  8. not sure where you would find that data except that you take it from an original existing guide.....the disturbing fact is that you got some that were not as design...are these being passed off as originals and yet need this attention to detail and some here have had the cupped guides and installed them upside down...they would not have even suspected anything wrong on looking I am sure...
  9. I guess I am now totally puzzled as to the why you ask dimensions when you seem to already have the guides counterbored by you and reamed for the valves stem size....BUT it is good you making headway....
  10. where is the fun in that...…………………???? 😎
  11. if you are talking of the counterbored ends of the guides...I question your very guides you seem to have as they are ALL cupped by application and depending if used on exhaust or intake determines the relationship of the counterbore
  12. just keep in mind that when lifting the lever position..you will be lifting the pivoting point of the rods in the process...you will have plenty of meat/length with the original long shifter rods that if you have to incorporate a step bend in order to keep the rods parallel to the levers on the transmission shifting shaft....you wish to retain this straight back and forth motion of the shifting levers to the levers on the shift shaft of the transmission itself so to avoid any dragging issues that often comes into play with a rod moving at an angle form above and or below...you can see this very action in original shift rods and the reason for the funky bends and angles often found in many shifting rods....it is like phasing a driveline..both shifter and tranny can be on different levels as long as you bend the rods to maintain this parallel line in movement of the rod......remember, reverse lever is usually at an angle...easier to work this as it is not rocking forward and back position as it is a single gear select.
  13. yeah....maybe return them and buy a set of eight....after 3 tune up, your fourth is free with the unused 2 per set......looks good on paper, can't see it from my house as they say.....lol I believe the counter guy would work with you on this...
  14. only performance difference SHOULD be the ability to withstand corrosion over time and heat cycles of the two different finishes...think four of one and two of the other would be noticeable at even a casual glance...kill the deal for me....
  15. Like Los says...they better than nothing...I think both my riding lawn mowers have larger filters.....on a twin carb set up LBC I modified a couple of these larger round lawn mower filters by melting the glue in the original steel lid/base of the LBC and installing these...took a small tweak to the original rubber molded base but they fit great....often one can look to different application and different engine to come up with suitable housings and filters.... little before and after retrofit....these are getting very expensive to replace...little time, 7.00 later....new filters...
  16. I may have seen 2 coils in my life time that actually leaked...most just swell a bit when overheated and short internally when the primary and secondary wire insulation breakdown.
  17. the one panel that has a slight greenish tone look correct as that is ecosheen a mixture I can duplicate with black and green mixture of paint.....clean this real good ans see if you get a bit more green than black.....else...I have no answer for a car that age in the hands of a new owner....short version...PO PO PO (PO is previous owner)
  18. your shift rod will need to be modified to the correct length as gauged in neutral position each tranny lever and with the shifter neutral and cross over also pinned..from there it is a simple cut to length and thread as needed...when you do this type of changes to a set up you must be prepared for these events and have the tools needed or at least available to you to complete the task...
  19. usually 1.5 is used with a dropping resistor...3.0 is used without and has an internal resistor HOWEVER for clear concise information and warranty purposes...ALWAYS call Pertronix direct....they are the builder, retailer and company warranting the products....
  20. I think by reading the city pretty much frowns on yard art...
  21. soak that puppy in oil and let it swell out as it should be...these are designed to be wet......
  22. I would venture to guess if you are using the stock master in the stock location beneath the floor and did not install a two lb residual that your very vent that is in the corner of your master cylinder fill cap is plugged up and preventing venting else that would lead to gravity flow from the caliper and spongy pedal as a result.....
  23. Adam's picture is correct for stock master.....most folks upgrading usually go for split system twin reservoir for added safety and why I posted the picture above....as most folks are not aware of the residual valve location on that style master cylinder......SO...…….added note...….if you are retaining the use of your stock master...the residual must come out....else the calipers will not pull away....at that time you will need to plumb to the rear an inline 10lb residual and a 2 lbs residual for the front calipers.....
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