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Plymouthy Adams

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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams

  1. I went a different approach on mine...I utilized twin mounts with two different color LEDS and a 'mood' switch...…...
  2. very recent and went into detail of the generic product most sell for the application in question, man assured me to no end that his product was design specific and was a true exact fit...I GOT GENERIC JUNK that in no way can you use....he could have cared less when I called back....I would applaud his business going tits up...I could let this slide had I not been specific on the part and him lying about his product. I have to say that Steele did not lie, they did tell me point blank the part they carry for application was generic and not tested by their techs for exact fit as they had no 'buck' to test fit it on. I normally never say anything about suppliers as we have so few here...but I detest lies even more. ADDED NOTE....I will not say any more of this supplier but I will not endorse him in any manner....
  3. Mr America runner up at his day job....
  4. while I do not care for Steel and their over the top prices....I recommend them over others for many things....while you have had bad luck with them, I have been flat out lied to by the other....I'll take poor customer service over lies and no service at all.
  5. As an aside, I just picked up four gallons of 56+% of phosphoric acid I ordered in and had dropped shipped to a local merchant...this stuff brushed onto crusty rust is 95% gone over night...second coat make is clean and ready to finish your weld, body work or other pre-primer related repairs. I had just cracked open my last gallon I had on hand...
  6. those shiny dudes I think were originally Ford application...I know I got a set of four at a swap meet, snagged them for 10.00, got them for use down the road on my cars. They are a bit dressier and when you got custom panels it is of no major concern to add some bling. Swap meets are fun but you have to know in advance what direction your build is going to make buy stuff an advantage.
  7. make sure also no PO has installed a good heavy after market ground strap.....these hard to break when you got all that weight in your hands...
  8. Steele is high but on the Plymouth, their vent rubber is good...cannot give them kudos for the Dodge however, they suck buckets. I think I used Roberts rear quarter glass but mine was for a Bz Cp.....cannot vouch for the sedan but I would suspect as good. Other companies is your call...I personally like Clester's product also and they are my ONLY choice for door and trunk seals...
  9. yes, lye tanks are a plus with stripping many coatings from items...especially cast iron.....I also have a stainless container that contain a very cost effective de-rust agent that is super effective. In this hobby you need a few added devices to your inventory to speed along or enhance a process.
  10. build a hot lye tank....like lye is easy to come by these days....lol Used my lye tank not so long ago....great paint stripper... It is getting harder to get some other supplies as well as the means to ship these chemical are getting more and more restrictive. Just got a call today that my order of four gallons of acid has been delivered to a local supplier. If not for ability to ship to the store, this stuff would be way expensive to get delivered to your door.
  11. I had a similar question put to me by a man down the street that got a Ford 300 L6 with a builders tag. Even visiting the website for the rebuilder drew a blank. I suggested that he call the company itself for further information. (no follow up by him so would guess he did not call) This tag and others I have seen do not in my memory of looking at them follow any certain set of codes. Each builder probably has their own format in stating the specs where A is std and possibily B is next base value .010 over/uinder and down the alphabet on standard parts available. The rods and mains will be stamped on the shell denoting their undersize, the crank itself should be stamped with its undercut on a larger flyweight both main and rod..lifters, they may need be checked. I also am interested in any data Bob should be able to provide from his code book if but to hopefully be of help to someone else in the future. I am certain the book would be an interesting read. Bob has lots of knowledge and resources at his disposal.
  12. two tone the wheel, put the spokes and hub in the lighter color only...no charge for this customizing tip...….
  13. that is funny, on the way this past weekend to an estate sale there was a 57 two tone parked up against an out building on this farm.....does not look like it has moved for a bit....
  14. ok...first...the resistance being high (90) is the indicator of low fuel...and at this point should indicate E and not really below the E mark this gives you a range of accuracy. ....when at 10 (you should never ground the wire except to quick check needle movement to full BUT NEVER LET it peg out as ground is zero and damage to the gauge could result) with this 10 ohms you will put the needle on full mark with a slight tolerance above this for gauge protection...if your float lever is within its built in stops...and still reads reversed....you should pull the sender to ensure at lowest float setting you get your 90 and at the highest you get your 10 you may have to remove and reverse the resistor if backwards or at minimum return it with this explanation.....
  15. are you referring to WLS Headliner in Georgia?
  16. check with any advertising company in your area...they use this stuff to create outdoor ads...
  17. the big block is not as long as the small block....in many aspects the small block is longer or taller....it is basically only the width of the RB in and where the exhaust logs will run that is of concern...keep in mind the A engines are the only ones with internal oil pump...
  18. ah, they not that tight, I put a 440 into a even more narrow and pointed hood of a 1941 military 1/2 ton....if you got the room time skills tools etc...pick your poison and let the big dog loose
  19. check your points for crudded contacts, if burnt blue suspect bad condenser...or even a worn break cam that has rendered the point ineffective.. also be sure that the flexible wire inside is also not shorted out....this is easily verified with your volt ohm meter..... any tune up parts you get, be sure you buy them based on the tag on the distributor, different models, different parts and the only way you can be sure some PO did not in the past swap out distributors is checking the tag and EVEN IF HE HAD, buy parts by this number
  20. at least it was still on the road...…..Giovanni Michelotti made sure that design is timeless
  21. well, actually, Exner referred to the 62's as a plucked chicken......and if you were to pluck a chicken, set it on its back with the wings folded against the breast and the drumsticks sticking level and rearward (feet removed please) you will see the very speed lines incorporated into the design....compared to many other makes and models of the year, I will take a chicken over the shiny terds some placed in the showroom.....but maybe there is a hint of Mopar madness in my blood. Maybe it is the 5 cars I have here that makes me bias....
  22. I am just hoping they are not trying to pass that Valiant off as a PLYMOUTH ROCK
  23. ah you can get sheets all day long at a thrift store, yard sale or clothes line out back of someone's house....have mums stitch a couple together, wha-la instant cover, low cost, easy to wash....and often you can get pretty little flowers if you like.....well, at least go with stripes.....
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