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Plymouthy Adams

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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams

  1. BASED SOLELY on the question, sell or part......parting a car takes up much time to find buyers, you have to pull said parts and often get shipping quotes that cost too much for some to then buy the part. Large items require freight and for sure that is definitely costly. You are quickly left with a car with pieces removed, maybe no longer able to move about your property, no longer a value to sell as a project/parts car. If you have no real desire to build this car, sell it off as a complete project or better than average parts car to an enthusiastic buyer. If you decide to keep it and work the car....tackle the vehicle in such a manner that segments of vehicle is done a bit at a time and never disassembled to a point that you cannot physically move the car about. If you take it apart, you need dedicated lay down area for the components and inventory control system to track where you put said parts.
  2. here in the south they like stranded fiberglass in the mix...personally I do not care for it. as for fiberglass re-bar....I would think that would be good as the rust is not there and concrete will absorb from the ground.....moisture barrier is a plus for shop floor and to me the first 20 feet of a driveway as you never know when you may have to roll one out to do a job or not be able to roll it in....we have all seen the classic example of rebar busting out concrete with rust expansion...powerful stuff....and any small crack now allows more moisture accelerating cracks by freezing....
  3. I am probably the only man on the internet that is not on facebook….I have no account to view the ad.....but thanks....the 413 with soniramic induction would be the cats meow on one of my 62 Polara 500's...BUT...other than looks I would have absolutely no use for an engine of that magnitude....
  4. 413 is a wedge head block....now if this pup has the soniramic induction.....grab it....
  5. alternator and LOTS OF GAS....it would have eaten your lunch in a couple years if you kept it.....many 62 Chrysler had major floor and rocker damage....25+ years ago no one was offering these for sale either....you made your own.
  6. come on Andy, the truth is, the clocks in Oz run CCW and you folks still don't know what side of the road to drive on...….🤩
  7. the four door if 413 was detunes the Chrysler 300 got the HP the engine was an excellent building platrform….various HP outputs that went as high as 420 HP from the factory, (max wedge) this was also the very block that generated the 426 Wedge...it continued in production into the 70 as a very torquey truck platform and was in many self powered RV's even the latest manifolds still carry 426 part numbers....
  8. I have posted this before, the bias ply tire will by rolling effect transfers it contact patch rearward at speed.....the radial will not...thus the need for positive caster. IN PART: Non-radial tires had a tendency to distort at highway speed so that the contact patch moved back past the centerline of the tire (Picture a cartoon car speeding along, the tires are generally drawn as eggshaped). The contact patch generally moves behind the caster line causing, in effect, a positive caster. This is why, when you put radial tires on this type of car, the car wanders from side to side and no longer tracks straight. To correct this condition, re-adjust the caster to positive and the car should steer like a new car. the complete white paper: http://www.valleyofhastings.com/WheelAlignment2.pdf I do not think the average tire guy in the business today truly has seen bias ply tires and know the rolling characteristics compared to radial..radials have been with us since the late 40's but truly only came into being in the US in great number on new cars until the 70's most were all onboard by 1980. so with that in mind the average years of radials in America is some 39 years. I was fortunate to have known a real great front end alignment man who in just a couple minutes explain the difference and correct my driving issues in 1975 on my car when I went to radial and poor handling. His tuning my suspension the very catch phase of X car advertising of radial tuning was simply a change in caster to that of positive over neutral or negative caster. Tire company employees are not on the average up to speed on alignment issues.
  9. there are many ways to skin a cat...it is no surprise more than one person has found a single way the best suited....I like to think that Occam's Razor is applicable.
  10. you just tire of the run around these days trying to find something to work with for a car that has long outlived its prime time....today that magic number is often 7 years..
  11. I knew they made airplanes but this may be the first JUNKERS truck...did he show restraint or just not chopped the top yet....got to love the mud on the cab from the front wheels....
  12. I like the wall to wall glass that is all about the cab...and also the stock headlight that are composite body shape pieces of future decayed plastic...look like a real bumper also...stylish compared to a Powell
  13. get a smaller tire for your rim...they are available....we all like spare to match the rubber on the ground but sometimes we have to make concessions....the spare is just that, spare...
  14. you know that Hernando was quite the traveler in the day....
  15. first, I do not think the box of stuff was ever properly identified early 49 p15 carry over or new model 49 (p18)
  16. I wish I had a dollar for every time I carefully removed and place aside an item for safe keeping and knowing JUST WHERE to find them when the time comes.…..
  17. another issue so very often overlooked by many folks working these older cars is the use of a feeler gauge to set USED point they have just cleaned in order to get spark. IF not set with a dwell meter to ensure that the closed period of time is proper they result could be that the points are conducting for a longer period of time thus pulling more current than needed for a longer period of time and the result in the coil will overheat. Granted there are many times one should clean and tweak the points, main one being we may have to limp back to the house for a proper tune up. This is an acceptable practice only when followed up by proper tuning techniques. New points often do very well with a feeler gauge but irregular and pitted contacts of used points must be set with a meter. You looking for proper saturation of the coil, to little dwell time you do not develop the charge capacity of the coil, too much you reach saturation but at a trade off for heat saturation, saturated heat in electrical circuits are prone to thermal runaway..
  18. yes, but the very fact that your dad did not knuckle and buy you a cool car may well be reason you alive today....say Thank you dad...
  19. I think I said it first in post 12 and I will stick with this based on your description of the series of events...now if you left out some other important facts.....then we back to TS101
  20. while the event that you describes is truly a weak point and an area one should visit for reliability. the fact it starts, runs without grounding out and only when the heat of the coil weakens the field to where it can no longer sustain a spark does the engine cough and die and when later it COOLS, the engine will restart and repeat said cycle of event...
  21. probably the only way you would come out ahead....
  22. yes, I would consider hauling it all to the crusher for 30,000.00 you paying by check or paypal?
  23. patina is way to over done....and as stated before, is often the side effect of pure T laziness....now had you said a lawn can always use a bit of highlight...I may have let that pass.....🤩
  24. I like a good junkyard as much if not better than the next man.....but yard art, good yard art, is kept trimmed with a weed eater...
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