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Plymouthy Adams

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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams

  1. 6v positive ground question

    non permanent magnet...you would have to change the polarity of the brushes to affect rotation
  2. Jack

    I will throw out that by your profile you are in Olympia, Washington and I have no idea the going shop rate for any large or small enterprise. Hopefully someone here is close to you and can chime in with an approximate cost. The signal light kits are not that expensive nor hard to install yourself. You will need to rewire your sockets for dual element bulbs and index the aftermarket pigtail properly for the Mopar sockets. The kits comes with easy to follow instruction and there are plenty of site on the internet to walk you though should you hit a snag...or come back here with a question. I would think the cost to install at a shop would be a bit of coin....but then I am just spit balling....You can find the kits on E-bay or through a variety of hot rod suppliers. I would suggest you give it a whirl before farming it out..but I also don't know your skills/time/limitations such as tools and place to work.
  3. Jack

    are you asking for cost if YOU do the work buying the parts etc or the cost of a shop/garage to do the deed?
  4. Cowl vent linkage

    per his avatar, project cars, I am thinking a 51 Meadowbrook
  5. How to keep the mice away?

    cats show no affection...they just use these tricks to gain affection from you....if something were to happen to you the cat would be sucking up to someone else immediately... you got to sit back and laugh now and then.....
  6. Help identifying engine

    mains and rods are .030 undersize...cylinder is bored .040 oversize...the G8262 is probably a number to identify it back to the builder for warranty
  7. 1950 Spitfire problems

    don't forget to re-torque the head bolts after a heat cycle...a must for these flatheads..
  8. 1950 Water pump removal/installation

    yes, time to slip back into the age of simplicity.....
  9. Electronic distributor

    well there are many ways to skin a can...some methods however force you to wait for the cat to be shipped to you.....think abut it...
  10. Tires!

    Tires are always a question that comes up in building a car....just this morning was checking availability of tires on one of my older sport cars. Happy to find some still available but disappointed they not some of the brand names I am more comfortable with. But the higher speed rating these carry indicates that for the typical highway speeds they should do well.
  11. Tire Info!

    with all due respect the P in the tire series number indicate it is a passenger tire...as for truck...possible good for a mini van or something like a smaller light duty SUV but for a pick up truck that may have intentions of actually pulling a load...these could very well lead to side wall flexing that gives way to that icky false feeling one gets when cornering a vehicle of any sustained weight or should you have to maneuver a object in the road at speed. The side wall rating on the P tires make them less truck friendly....
  12. Seat Belts installed?

    Jeff is right...do reinforce your B-post if you go 3 point...make sure your floor pan is up to the task by being firm and solid...displace these anchors also. DO NOT tie to the frame...a body does not pass through sheet metal easily...A trip to a local wrecking yard with a tape measure should find more than a number of suitable donors. Many throw out the fact that these are used...IF you keep your car any length of time, guess what, you wearing used belts. I still trust the ones in my 80's vehicles. Good candidate at a yard will be from a recent tow in, doors and windows staying closed...while the belt may look good, it is the retracting locking mechanism that should not have suffered exposure...this you will want to inspect prior to removal and reuse. Happy hunting...another point on belts on E-bay...beware....maybe one or two out of 100 listing will be approved by the DOT....based on that alone is why I will consider a good set for retrofit from a donor vehicle.
  13. Favorite shop chairs

    13 foot ceiling...I run my mini vans up full height with no clearance problems roof of vehicle to ceiling. All of my old cars have been on the lift also with no problem. Properly centered in your shop with the roof design you have...depending on the pitch of your roof and width of the shop...you could easily determine the height available.....maybe exercise your brain a bit with pythagorean theorem. Use it or lose it....!
  14. Favorite shop chairs

    yes a lift takes up room....but just a tad more than the car that is sitting on it for maintenance...get the 4 post which will self jack onto a set of casters and roll it in and out as you see fit...but seriously, if you have the car in the middle of the shop for work..it is not much more for the lift to be there. park a car on top and one below...you now have a driver kept indoors....a project car that can be lowered for access when you feel like turning a wrench or doing a bit of body work...the argument at that they take up too much room is invalid for in fact, they literally double your space.
  15. Favorite shop chairs

    not bragging.....just am happy I have a hoist...and try to relate to folks here just how much more handy they are than a shirt pocket...overall for the low cost these thing sell for...you dollars ahead in the ease of maintenance...pays for itself quickly, don' t believe me...ask your knees after a day crawling in and out from under a car....
  16. Need 6v help

    solder wicking wire is a good copper multiple strand braided wire available in various sizes...this one should work but you make the final if you choose to use it....I have used hundreds of rolls of this stuff.....in various sizes depending on the component being removed from a PCA http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-0-mm-Desoldering-Braid-Solder-Remover-Copper-Wick-Spool-Wire-Cable-1-5m-USA-/290768708140?hash=item43b32a622c:m:mY7UFS8PnrGItFKQSvj87gg
  17. Favorite shop chairs

    Since I got my lift years ago I really have little need of a butt platform....I have two short seats with wheels that was ideal for doing body work alongside the car....now I just run the car to the comfortable height, easy on my eyes, neck, back and about anything else you can think of. I have two chairs in the machine shop. They there for when company comes by and if very hot out, we sit there, drink a bit of coffee in the comfort of AC....also got a roll around metal work table that stores under my work bench that is the right height for building carbs and other smaller devices as needed while seated.
  18. Front Coil Springs

    my 54 looks like that....when launching and lighting up the back tires from a dead stop...I figure about 625 more HP and I could lift the wheels off the ground....
  19. Need 6v help

    point bounce is suspect, ensure your point spring is properly located when installed...also disconnect your vacuum advance for a test run and ensure you not shorting out the distributor at the higher RPM as the jumper wire in the distributor if improper positioned can often touch ground as the plate rotates.
  20. Starter Voltage on my B2B

    how many amps are you drawing when your motor tries to start..this will tell you what is going on. If excessive, (consult your book for specs) then you have either internal drag of armature or voltage drop in your cables. You need raw data to go forward from here unless you just like guessing at what parts needs attention
  21. Favorite shop chairs

    looks like you need to take up cobbling on your shoes and not your cars
  22. Favorite shop chairs

    chair...in a shop...blasphemy....how you expect to get anything accomplished......
  23. Before I put this P15 starter back together question

    Steve...the parts page you printed show the three washer as having the same parts breakdown number and shows THREE of these in your picture....look close....there is one of the first contradictions.....now for the truth per my manual and using the asterisk beside the part number...661446 is .031 thick and IS LISTED OPTIONAL USE AS NEEDED as is 669412 being a .015 and also IS LISTED OPTIONAL USE AS NEEDED and 672641 as .047 and IS LISTED OPTIONAL USE AS NEEDED ........BUT......... the commutator end is 648387 and is .065 thick and is NOT OPTIONAL all come under the same drawing number of 8-52-121...now the real killer here is this....you use the washer as you have on hand or as needed to obtain the armature end play of .005 to .030 play on assembly...you do not want less than .005 and you want no more than .030...that is the call for the different thickness washer and why my book list them as optional..they are to address end play per application.....
  24. Before I put this P15 starter back together question

    ok...consulting my book from the factory...the .065 Starter thrust washer 648387 is stock and should be in place each end.....the 672641 is an optional thrust washer for taking up play and is .041 thick and USED AS REQUIRED ont he commutator end..see the asterisk on the parts breakdown and note at bottom of page for application.
  25. Before I put this P15 starter back together question

    your drawing is different than my book show....it has the pad and one thrust washer on the brush end then as the stop washer (which could be a spring type) and then another thrust washer just before the forward bearing plate....... Per your drawing, you have three washers with the same part number being the thrust washer....does not show the spring washer will look in yet another book...
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