Plymouthy Adams

maybe we need two forums, one for the DIY and one for the Pay as you Go crowd......😀 Never seen the logic of coming here for info and ending the thread with pass this along to my mechanic....if they are a mechanic, he/she should already know if not what to do, but at least how to find the info for themselves and not get watered down third party hearsay.

that depends, you looking for a repair or a cobble......myself, cut it out, shape a donor metal to match the created hole, fix for welding with butt weld clamps, full perimeter weld and you will have not to worry ever again in your lifetime....if however you looking to cut corners by getting in getting out....by all means, throw some rosin on it. Sell the car as if you keep it, you will likely be visiting this again.

thanks, I felt the manual was wrong but searching both the Dodge and Plymouth version, I got the same pictures....I had not long back store my Motors book away and was not where I thought it would be. I added a link to a bushing kit that should apply to the man's car. I did later come across an asterisk, single is straight axle, double is IFS. NOTHING AT ALL on the straight axle drag link.

well Sniper, a good point for sure, the book drawing specifically states the picture is 1936 through 1942 which is what the years the shop manual covers. Like you when first I read this I was thinking straight axle would have the drag link...so this morning I referenced the book and this was all that was shown in both the DODGE and PLYMOUTH factory service books of the era. BUT for sure if drag ling they are totally rebuildable, and the originator of the thread has been asked to supply a photo and has not so we are all yet in the dark at this point. Kinda a do I cut the red wire or the yellow wire here before it blows up in my face. Page 33 of the Plymouth factory books show similar with the Y pitman arm photo captioned 1936-42 models and I agree I always placed the IFS at 1939 and reverse Elliot axle for the earlier years. NOS MOPAR 1934-8 PLYMOUTH DODGE DESOTO CHRYSLER DRAG LINK PARTS PKG | eBay

and then, working some 16 years DoD Navy, used a lot of Monel...(Ni-Cu) .where high strength was needed along with corrosion resistance, most plans/drawings specifically called for which fastener you were to use. Cres will gall at high torque and basically weld itself together. Stainless steel is a catch all term for steel with a chromium content of no less than x percent and will be magnetic to a lesser degree than steel and still corrode a slight bit. More chromium less chance of corrosion/magnetism and for sure you paying or the chromium content as you go up in grade.

my factory service manual shows 36-42 having a pitman arm of Y shape on the steering sector thus a drag link will not be in play here...terminology may well be the key player here. You should have inner and outer tie rod ends on both the left and right tie rods which should be complete with grease fittings and these connect to the pitman arm. There is a big gap in the coverage of this in the book both Plymouth and Dodge....while the steering box is covered, the pitman arm and connecting tie rods are not. In the front suspension these are also not mentioned except to show how to orientate the pitman arm to centerline of the vehicle. The only picture in my book that even show the tie rods on place is in the lubrication section.

does this have to be car related, paid dearly for set of vinyl screen doors for the back porch to find the hinges were made of very soft cheese. I will be changing these in the near future.

stainless steel brake lines...the ultimate bling on a rat rod.......................😁

even the sign on the vending machine is correct.....you like it.....

Dextero DHT1...your mailbox is full, tried to send a message....

preformed and then curve and bent to fit a box for shipping, you better off making your own tailor fit set.......

You did mention Goodyear and 70's....thought this would be enough....lol

I got notice my tires are to be delivered today....225/75R15 for the 94 B250.......next up, tires for the 06 Caravan....wow do the years fly by....

for the most part our Home Depot, Lowes, TSC and local hardware stores carry a fairly good selection of hardware....NOW THEY DO NOT have everything....and SAE fine stainless does fall in that DOES NOT HAVE But I do have a company locally that has a better selection and prices and will sell 1 or a thousand with the same courteous service. Cannot say that for a certain main stream specialty store that by the way went tits up in this area due to the poor management and over the top gouging prices. For many folks the TSC by the pound hardware is a pretty good deal when you look at. I was not saying ordering on line was out of the question, sometimes it is the only means to an end on some very special hardware......and I have ordered in my fair share, I do however give the locals a chance to fill the order first so not to have stop/delay a segment of a build/process. Common sense stuff folks, nothing more.

with all due respect, items needed to exact this repair is common at any hardware store or big box building supply, TSC etc that one can walk in, get the item, pay and immediately got to work repairing. While mail order from many companies and sites are MOST BENEFICAL when you dealing/needing bulk quantity, I have to state IN MY OPINION this is not the best option for this particular thread. Heck if it boils right down to it, one can find where a person may park a chevy/gm product and find where these have fallen off and free for picking up. Ok so the last part is a joke...maybe real at times, but still intended as a jab/joke.