Plymouthy Adams

I am assuming this car has already been modified in the past. with the flathead V8

oxalic acid for chrome...

and that is still based on work done properly and condition fit and function of components....while some cars will and do command a bit higher value...these are truly documented on the most part with many before, during and after photographs. Many are just flippers and hoping to recoup every nickel THEY THINK they put in for initial cost, farmed processes, parts paint and valuing their labor at pro rates......its a fun hobby but you got to walk about slow and deliberately.

this is a ruse to get the buyer to think he gets a super deal talking them down to the 15K he really wants.....the car is in my opinion very much overpriced given the poor manner many things show in the photographs...and the posters eval on the body work....I think many folks will walk especially if they view it in person....

OH NO you ripped out the thermostat grounding wire......?

with all due respect have you looked at the head in the vicinity directly above the bung? You likely will need to remove the bracket that your picture shows that is covering the greater portion of the expansion plug

there is a removable expansion plug over the bulb in the head....allows you to access from there.....you will need a good solvent to break the rust bond. This is delicate to remove intact....go slow.....and yes it is one piece with the gauge as you state....damage renders it useless unless you perform an effective transplant from a modern donor or luck upon a surviving unit or NOS

While not an old Mopar, techniques and desire to change things still prevail, if you look in my carpet picture it will tie into yet another popular thread now going on with thresholds. This particular car NEVER got thresholds cover from the factory....so...a went on walk-about at the local wrecking yard and gleaned these Mopar donors....

while I could buy carpet kits for this particular car...the transmission hump and tunnels pieces are sloppily made and does not hug or fit and the carpets are more in line with a woolen mat than real carpet but the killer on buying a kit was No one provided the carpet in the color I wanted much less a closed loop. I ended up buying my material and sewing my own to conform to the curves and sewed my own binding. This laying carpet if typical of the manufacturer.

Simple online search for brake line kit for 41 Dodge does net returns for premade but it is NOT as I see it custom made for the car but a selection of premade lengths and unions so you can bend these to mimic originals...but I figure you knew this already. You can get these locally at the big box store. Classic Tubes, a large supplier, does not go back this far in their offering and what they do sell is OTT in cost in my opinion. DCM kits only go to 1948 and again, costly and not even sure of shipping, if not gently curved for smaller container, surcharge now will likely be applied by all shippers. So you will be shaping these yourself, only not making the flares. It is a Pay to Play hobby....and why most that get into it especially from the project side do their own work or at least research in depth before purchasing such vehicle of choice before laying out the initial purchase.. While I do not know your health condition, I am your senior....and while if needed I would be under the vehicle tomorrow to do such a task as this, as a person into the hobby, I also own a few lifts, my way of taking a stand against crawling. Very little paint by number kits for the old Mopars.....most owners of these cars/trucks are well versed in rolling their own. Even with the kit, you will be doing about the same task of removing the old, putting the new in place...the added steps of making them custom yourself is not that much more involved as you can remove the original and copy them on the bench. Good luck, but I think you will find yourself under the vehicle as much with a kit as making your own.

I like the non traditional approach, beats searching worrying and if lucky to find decent stock thresholds...the need to mortgage the house. I got this pair to modify for my bz cpe....cost.....10.00 for the pair...quick and easy fix...

the wear groove does not bother me near as much as the crack that is shown.....the groove would be filled with epoxy and turned/polished before pressing the sleeve in place, that way the metal is backed solid.

along with replacing tires....you likely would be buying new underwear... but I would have to question the who and why of the failed connections.....surely this was a lack of proper procedure/attention

you may need to lift the engine for this a bit for clearance....not that involved....watch the fan in the area of the radiator and hoses.....you may also need to remove the two upper cover bolts...in some cases this may be enough....but don't count it for every model.

ran to the metal shop and scarfed up some fallout chunks for four projects. Just completed the front hangers to make the newly acquired a lift a front and rear loadable unit by moving the ramps as needed. With the brackets cut, drilled, welded and cleaned up, the paint is about to go on after this cup of coffee.....I will address the hanging of the Barrina light strips under the runways next....the metal for the lights is cut and awaiting welding now. Excellent day with sunshine and 70 degree temps.....give me more!!!!!!!!

I am now back home after my morning jaunt, renewed my notary license for another 4 years, snagged some falloff metal from the fabrication shop to complete four projects already drawn out on paper, called in a pizza for pickup on the way home and lunch is done by 12:30. How you going to act? Sun is shining to beat the band and temps is a good 70 degree...I am heading out now to continue my piddling about for the day. Hope you all get a chance to do something you WANT to get done

With the rains pushing through and overcast this morning I figured it was the makings of a nice sunrise.....headed out with a fresh cup of coffee to watch, boy was it ever, best sunrise I have seen in quite a while. The better temps for now, overnight lows in 60's, I slept outside till mid morning love the night air and washed clean with rain. The promise of spring..! Oh well, now to run out and renew my Notary license and on to get some falloff chunk at the metal shop to finish a couple of small projects and get lighting beneath this newest lift I installed and make a tilt front hinge set up for the 58 Bugeye.

I am not sure of that brand name but have used these by the literal thousands for the US Navy....Raychem was the brand used there......you must have the correct heat gun and proper tips to be effective...the ones we used were easy and top notch joints.

The V6 is in my opinion very much the way to go....but I have an upcoming 4.7 V8 5 speed floor shift retro warming up in the wings right now....got to get a shop mod done first. While trying to get a look at the raw block..pics are of it in dress form with the all in one top cover that hides components and distorts the view. Allpars web page has been fully revamped and not as user friendly as in the past, was not worth the visit at all.

I use the + in front of the words I want in my search return.....even at that...on the returns you can then further use the now available advanced search options offered with your returns. Words also must be 3 letters minimum In your search box....+valve +guide nets some 362 or so entries +valve +guide +install narrows it to 38...I did not but could have used orientation...but many would likely not use that descriptor...

just wait a bit till the number of crashed Jeeps and Rams with the Hurricane 3.0 inline 6 with twin turbos start entering the pick and pulls. 410 SO and 510HO versions....torque beyond belief. Of course, you would have to embrace the electronics associated with such powerplants....this alone will likely kill 98% of those that would even entertain such a transplant. I went with the full electronics package of the 3.7 and 5 on the floor for the bz cpe. It is an amazing experience to drive this beast as equipped. Braking beyond belief and turns on a dime. While not a rocket ship, it proves to bring a huge smile to whoever I let drive it. Handles excellent. It is not for the many here as they tend to be purist and there is nothing wrong with that. But get a bz cpe body dropped in you lap void of original drivetrain and you have a blank canvas with no regrets.

there is but one frame shown for the P15 in the repair manual, the center mounts bolt to the frame...they are positioned per body being used....these again, bolt where needed and the holes are provided by the factory. These movable mounts are in the vicinity of the B-Post.....as I have a bz cpe here I can assure you that it matched the frame dimensions in the book.

As an update, working mostly solo with the help from the wife to spot me when moving the runways into the shop with the tractor and the engine hoist with the turf tires and trailer hitch built in place....I have the lift in place, adjusted out and sitting leveled. I have yet to raise a car. Likely today or later....just happy it is inside and off the trailer and DID NOT get wet which was a prime concern. The hoist with the turf tires allowed me to again maneuver a heavy load across the lawn with ease. Best mod to a shop tool ever!

while this will entail going to 12 volt....likely the better option all around anyway, these are reported to be very reliable units..back in the day everyone made fun of the sound of a Mopar gear reduction starter....today everyone WANTS that style starter for the sheer grunt it provides. Gear Reduction Starters for American Classics (vintageautogarage.com)

this came up with a three key word search...are you searching the forum and using the proper syntax to get the pertinent information? I found this quickly and refers to what you are asking for.....go from there