Plymouthy Adams

most all the bolts enter the water jacket.... Just for a laugh..............find a pair of binoculars, turn them backwards and when looking though, you will then be able to reach in with a pair of tweezers and lift the engine out, placing it in a match box for safe keeping.

my high priestest look into her crystal ball and said, I see delrin and lathe in your future.... Mopar Streamliner says: item 39, drawing 19-14-3 with part number 622 355 you can send a note to this seller and if he has a caliper on hand to mic it, you may get lucky here, this appears to be an aftermarket brand with no cross number to Mopar..... Dodge Steering Gear Column Jacket Bushing CC-925882 | eBay

this is the same little varmint in my Morris van......

good to see you still prodding along on this project.....your determination to build this right will pay big dividends in the long run. Congrats on your making yet another mile marker.

not saying it collects moisture on the tester, but the dried contaminants/oxidation left on the probe leads could lead to a bad reading, found that with my soil tester that is built on the same principle is all. I think in some regard the amount of moisture in the system over time is more prone to internal damage to components in form of long tern rust long before the daily use vehicle would ever experience brake fade or failure due to heat and moisture boil point. Other white papers support this very thing but as you said, it often boils down to believe what you wish to go along with. Below is another online paper.....while some of these facts below seem way out of order, I am sure in some cases of daily driven cars with faulty seals and reservoir lids, etc could contain some high levels of moisture. While I find 30% saturation as very high, this they must be calling a worst case scenario....the 10 percent I would think more in line to an older very darkfluid whe the system is checked and exposed to the air frequently when checked often by an owner and why the reservoirs today are transparent so one can view these without exposing to the atmosphere directly. While 10% could well display some fade and loss/spongy pedal I also agreed that the 3-5% max would be more to what you would likely find and would well be the flushing point. We all know that scheduled changes will lead to longer life of metal components over the long haul. Percentage Fact In-depth Sentence 70% Amount of water absorbed by brake fluid Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it has the ability to absorb moisture from the air. This can lead to a decrease in brake performance and potentially damage the braking system. 30% Recommended maximum water content in brake fluid Most manufacturers recommend that brake fluid should not contain more than 3% water to maintain optimal performance. 0.5% Water content in new, unopened brake fluid Even new, unopened brake fluid may contain a small amount of water due to air exposure during production. 5% Water content in used brake fluid As brake fluid ages and is exposed to moisture, it can reach a water content of up to 5%. This can decrease the boiling point of the fluid and potentially cause brake failure. 10% Water content that can cause brake fluid to fail If brake fluid contains more than 10% water, it can cause corrosion and damage to the braking system, leading to potential brake failure. 3 years Recommended lifespan of brake fluid Brake fluid should be changed every 2-3 years, as it can absorb water over time and decrease in effectiveness.

OPENED VS. UNOPENED (Napa online website) When a bottle of brake fluid leaves the factory, it’s sealed so that it doesn’t come into contact with any outside air that might also contain moisture. Most brake fluid manufacturers state that a sealed bottle has no set expiration date. In a sense, the fluid doesn’t break down over time and offers the same level of performance even after years on the shelf. I think I would be more concerned over the tester collecting moisture from the air while sitting unused and would think a very special cleaning/flushing would be in order prior to any testing or second/subsequent testing.

I have another similar cartoon...the Austin 1300 is basically the same as my Austin America..(ADO16), fun little car to drive and the hydrolastic suspension is unique...

any competent glass cutter will have access to the NAG patterns. I personally did not want the original style glass in my car and went with tempered (except windshield naturally as that is still the spec) contact my glass dealer, give them year, make and model, they cut and send out for firing, extra few days and a dollar or two more, but to me, well worth it. Never have to do more than a phone call or hit their booth at a swap meet.

hey, teach her both, round her out proper.....

They grow up fast....my daughter as I was finishing up my 914 (European specs)....if she ever makes it back from the west coast....will get a new picture of her with the same car...

locking steering column, clutch has to be depressed fully to enable the start circuit...he would need his little sister to help with the getaway...he can practice on his dads Veloster 6 speed turbo....

Well, apparently the current oil situation still shows there is not enough blinker fluid on the market either....this is a true story here, one day at the gas station I worked when in school, a lady pulled in, got out and showed the owner of the station her tail light was half full of water, he stated that happens now and again when you go to another station rather than this one and they overfill your battery. (she was blonde by the way)

This was an interesting little foul weather project. I admit nice day but needed to finish this up and did so today cutting a safety plate for the wheel and blade which in turn allowed me to fabricate an auto shut off lever for the power switch. Bought at estate sale for 10.00 and put new bearings in the motor, new bearings on the input shaft of the gear box. Little clean up and some lipstick on this pig and we in business. I cannot believe I did not take a before pic...it sat for years unused outside under a shop lean-to...motor and input bearings rusted to a locked condition. There were no legs so I sat it on this base and clad the top with plywood and 3/32 aluminum.

plane on the roof looks like an advertisement and something you would see along Route sicky sick

won't take away from the VW origins, but for sure, there are many cars with similar features of the same era. Bugatti as mentioned and later copied by Chrysler in a prototype the Atlantic....with modern straight 8 (two fours joined front to rear) the Stout Scarab comes to mind but the Tatra....the Tatra carried this style the longest and modified it features for a long production run. And Tatra was in my humble opinion the very car Tucker tried to emulate and the reason I have never cared for Tucker coupled with the lies of production cars that did not exist but after production ventures tried to state as real....another Shelby move copied there.

Hey papa, you forget to leave the keys in the ignition.....

whose wife is also in charge of his hobby....

for sure, work can often be overwhelming when it comes to wanting to do a few things for yourself to relax and move forward on projects. While may not be the best means to an end, the hobby can eat your brain, time and money and put you in a funk real quick. What is the possibilities of buying a completed car to enjoy till time and circumstances allow you to attack the engine yourself. Shops want the quick and easy money and collision repair is just that, for the modern quick to fix late model where OTC parts and wrecking yards can support...that is why at 10 years of age, most any can become a total loss with just a minor fender bender. At 10 years most yards pass these cars to pick and pull, they have lost the insurance support.

that is a good question but one that does not address the question, removal without damage....and as this was the leading concern, I for one assumed the man had a working gauge and wanted to keep it that way.....maybe I am too optimistic at times......lol

These mechanisms are complex assembly of spring levers and rotors...these combined with wear, dirt and dried lubrication prevent the proper operation. While there may be ultimately some sag after years of wear, a proper cleaning and lubrication usually will return the handle to use and successful latching unlatching. The finger springs are the secret to the long life given the eventual wear of the inner rotor. Suggest a very involved cleaning and lubrication of your mechanism.

bless the days of no facial/arm tats and nose rings.......these gals in their industrial environment as you said, look much cleaner than the current trend you see today.

went to my first wrestling tournament, high school, grandson lost in final round for ended up 2nd place in state. He travels to and wrestles this coming weekend regionals in Fl. Your daughter sounds like a very self confident person...bully for her...

While the lift has been installed and operational since the second day I got it home, today is the first opportunity to run a car up in the air...glad I did, saw where an axle boot clamp had slipped off...just so hard to get good clamps in a boot kit....so today ordered a set of 6 inside/outside boots clamps. The unit now has hangers for the ramps to attach to the front same as at the rear.....a hose/fitting adapter stainless cover special broke and runway drilled and tap to mount it in place at the runway to protect against fat heavy feet and dropped objects and finished up with the Barrina lighting.....

Roller skating.....staying upright while appearing to be break dancing.....

that's when the smart people race to the concession stand......at least you can still move about and not totally laid up.