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Plymouthy Adams

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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams

  1. you could easily wire a second amp guage parallel to the one in the dash and keep it either under the dash or for quick reference mount it in the eingine compartment...the shunt of each will see only half the actual load..so if you are drawing 30 amps your in dash unit will reflect 15 as should the unit mounted in the engine compartment..so you you have twin 40's..you have 80 amp capacity..
  2. if you are hooked to manifold vacuum then you are defeating the purpose and action of the advance...you must use ported vacuum
  3. there is a brand new looking John Deere in the wrecking yard uptown..It looked like it was just bought...I know no details except that the transfer case is broke..too costly to fix..cause/warranty/etc..I have no clue..sure seems a waste to see it sitting there..I place it in size to that of an old Ford 2/9/8N series.. my biggest arguement here is that parts are not considered repairable with these tractors..they do not selling bearing to fix a hub..they sell hubs only..they do not sell pigtails for blade clutch..they sell the complete wiring harness..I was pleasantly surprised that my switch was not only in stock..but reasonable..so far I have about 352 hours on the tractor though..
  4. This is one machine I have come to hate since day one..while out of town the wife was going to mow the lawn..one and 1/2 passes along the edge of the road..blade shuts off (electric clutch) she parks it..few days later..I get out there..wiring is not off as it sometimes gets hit by a small branch and pull it off..heck the tractor would not start..after physically pulling every interlocking safety switch and testing for proper working condition..still no go..last item..ignition switch..pull it out, pop it apart..cowrk contact..sorta bend the tab for teswt..whrrrr...so off to JD dealer for new switch..14.50 w/tax..about the only decent priced item on the tractor..mums is mowing as I type..
  5. I've noticed that the odd people ae the ones without the same address as myself...
  6. so many machine shops like to throw out the terms Balance and Blueprint...my god the factory done that for you..now if you are approaching 8000 rpm pulls..then maybe a bit more may need be one..balance of the slugs..equal..rods equal..crank is balanced..your flywheel is balanced etc etc....blueprint..just a way of saying the engine was been mic'ed and checked to be within the tolerance as specified by the manufactuerer..think about it..how old are these engines...? not saying take short cuts..just don't be drawn in to pay for hype that is part in part of correct procedures to begin with..
  7. close enough..but machine shop work will not come even close to 4K..punching the block is just a few bucks per hole..outside of that you can do the rest at home with basic tools..even if you have them set the cam bearings..35.00 at the shop local to me..so what you got..some 150.00 of machine work...and even at that...I don't always trust them to set the cam bearings..learned the hard way on that one..I discovered the error on my pre assembly super cleaning process...be careful even with machine shops...
  8. check with your local gestapo..I follow the direction on an aspirin bottle to the letter..take two and KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN..
  9. first off..why would you call a shop to do an engine..this is the fun of ownership..D-I-Y
  10. odd of you getting a set of belts from any retailer with retrofit to your old car with weldable reinforcement plates is close to nil. The belt kits will come with large washers to sandwich the floor pan between so as to displace the stress ovar a larger area and prevent rip out..I install mine with plate steel behind the original metal and thus bolt my anchors in place...in areas such as blind holes, these plates will have the anchor nuta welded to the plate and the plate slipped into place... Not sure of other makers but should you decide that a set of donor belts from a late model Mopar suit you..the bolts that retain them in the welded plates of the unit body are 7/16-20 threaded...you can use the original shouldered bolts to have the movement the set requires and use a GM lug nut to bolt them in place..the GM lug nut is of suitable grade hardware hands down..
  11. with faded out paint, torn seat corner, split dash..throw in the fact that some heavy work seems to be taking place..I am not sure the guy was really showing except to be present and take in the show and experienced some unfortunate break-down for his effort..who knows when next this car should surface what it may look like..if the owner was not totally put off and sold the car...
  12. The electric locking cap goes back further than that, my 47 Dodge TS Special has one stock from the factory...they are unique..I picked up another at a swap meet just a bit back..extremely nice unit..
  13. I think the dealer are now feeling the pain from the umbilical cord being cut..especially those that are slated to be closed in the re-org..you are not the first nor the last to experience gouging by these dealers..I have never cared for dealerships garages anyway..
  14. Just where do you live that requires that old cars must have seatbelts installed..if your car never had belts from the manufactuer then they are not require BUT if you install belts in the old can then the law requires you to use them..personally I like the belts..I do shoulder harnesses from donor vehicles...lof course lap belts are better than nothing..
  15. Thanks..that is the animal I was referring to..
  16. it is not destroying evidence in the absence of a criminal charge..it is only covering your tracks...
  17. Norm's back up system is a hammer, chizel, and piece of flat stone..(cave wall)
  18. Don, if the motherboard is not already maxxed out on the ram..ask the man to upgrade that also..XP and later models share a lot of your ram and limits your resources for juggling windows...funny how things that speed your computer originated with Mopar (ram) I would like to upgrade my Dell but the limitation on the motherboard prevent any real amount of ram being installed..so that was the reason I bought the newer computer..
  19. let it cure real good..get a paint run/nib shaver..color sand and polish..you will be surprised at what you can correct without a re-shoot.
  20. If it is a trolley jack..leave flat on wheels, ram lowered and fill throughthe rubber hole..some older models actually have a screw to remove with O-ring seal..this is a reservoir..no pressure here at all..
  21. nice...rare?...I would venture to say that outside of this photo many readers here have never seen one in the flesh so to speak..
  22. in the day one must park against the curb in the direction of travel..thus the passenger side faced the curb..the driver was required to exit to the curb..thus the need for a single lock and the location of the lock
  23. If you do not get a web site for this by Monday..let me know...have this stuff earmarked on the work computer..nice site..lots to chose from..If you search on flexible chome you may just ping it without my help...
  24. I think I would look into a model for the 3.8 GM maybe..I think the Buick comes to mind...over here they are superchargers...
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