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Plymouthy Adams

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Plymouthy Adams last won the day on September 27

Plymouthy Adams had the most liked content!

About Plymouthy Adams

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    Southern US
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    no list


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    lots of interests, to many to list..

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    enjoying retirement

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  1. therein lies the very simplicity of the clip. The Dakota as I stated above will follow your original frame centerline...(not to be confused with top and bottom plates) The engineering is already built into the clip and truly proven for ride comfort and handling with or without a load one the rear and will not be altered by following the centerline. The clip if you study both frames you also will find that the original frame mount points align and are easily transferred to the grafted front section it is almost easier than falling off a log as self preservation inhibit purposed self injury. MOST all builders of these type custom will choose what they are most comfortable with as far as maintenance and availability. Cost is a driving factor and why I personally could never justify the prefabricated setups based on the MII geometry/arrangement especially where one is fabricating this from precut metal fitted and welded independently of a jig. I further state as per the many frame clips I have seen involving GM components never look correct, sit way out f whack and drag line is an issue. If one entertains such stuff...the whole frame may well be the better way to go though again, I cannot honestly see why one would go this route...except to say...they have one handy to doodle with or they mimicking someone else or just can't step away from a hot rod magazine long enough to exercise their own mind and creative abilities. There is a lot more involved than cut and weld...
  2. the joining of the old to the new is not at all difficult or time consuming and is just a result of proper measurements and prepping each frame for welding one to the other...if you have the drawing for each frame which is in the tech manual per model, absolute measurements are there, as are trammel points for alignment and with these your task is on paper in matter of a few minutes and the rest is just simple cutting and welding. There is basically little difference in the Dakota and the old frame as both are IFS setup and even follow the basic frame centerline and ride height. Yes the length and L to R is different....but is quick and easy prep work to join. The real task is working the front Dakota frame horns to accommodate the original bumper attachment and while needed not as involved mods for the radiator shell for L-R and F-R adjustment of the doghouse on the newly modified Dakota frame platform, do not forget to tweak the Dakota frame for width and depth for the rad shell...
  3. 97 is an OBDII and RE transmission....at this time there is no 'real' support in custom harnesses for this protocol and the builder will have to split and create his own harness for retrofit applications.
  4. your thread title states P22/23 and you continue to compare the two different chassis of that year to that of the following model P24/P25 P22 = short wheelbase chassis 111 and the overall length was 188 1/8 including bumper and guards P23 = long wheelbase chassis 118 1/2 with overall length of 193 7/8 5 3/4 inches longer the P24/P25 with the 114 chassis was overall length of P24 at 189 1/8 (this is the inch you refer) and the P25 at 193 1/2 the 4 3/8 difference you neglected to state the reason for the difference in the P25 was the increase in competitions offering a larger foot print of a vehicle to the public....the 54 model got their added length in trim modifications so to be a bit more eye appealing compared to the competition. The 54 got a rave of other trim bling and was reported to have borrowed slated colors from the upcoming 55 line up to further enhance their eye appeal nd push sales upwards. Comparing the 51/52 to the 53/54 is apples and oranges in overall appearance...with the exception of those vehicles that were equipped with hy-drive and the powerflite in mid 54...they both were same old chassis hat tricks beneath carried forward with the 54 getting few more appointments as technology advanced and become more affordable to build...ie your power brakes and power steering. Basically the choice one has to make is what body style he liked the best and be comfortable with the chassis it was put on. As for the specific models for those two aforementioned series, one has to only chose what body style better reflects their liking and go from there....many styling changes between the two models. I know my 114 in wheelbase drives very nicely compared to the other model....many reflect as the sit on same components as carried forward that the very distance between the wheel patches makes all the difference. I think lower hood and one piece glass has some influence as does the rear non bulging fenders. The 54 I have is very quiet car on the road and my 52 and earlier cars as I recall were not as such.
  5. the little triangle in the circle one on each end of the AM band....
  6. 53 54 was 114 across the line up and some of the things you already mentioned was big changes, integral rear fenders, one piece windshield, lower hood line and even the 53 and 54 while having basically the same body...the trim was vastly different. 54 introduces the Civil Defense station indicators on the dial...as did the automatic tranny become a first for the 54 Plymouth mid year 1954 model. Power steering and power brakes were now more common in 54. Many of these mid year 54 items did not make it into the service manuals as they were not planned originally for the model year but were running changes. Often one had to refer to the 55 manual for some of the data of the later 54 would need for service.
  7. the P22 was the concord class and not the full size cars. Concord, business coupe and the station wagon were the models that floated on the 111 frame. The full size was the P23 and its frame was 118 1/2
  8. pressure are greatly different between bias ply as was factory when your car was built and the modern radials...as B4Ya says, default to the tire makers chart..
  9. these cylinder assemblies are available through most any big box parts house….Rock Auto also if you wish to mail order is just another example of where you can get these. I personally say give you local a chance, if problems arise he is your best bet for exchange and service verse out of town suppliers. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4385364&cc=1349838&jsn=360 as an added note, often some of these cylinders have different piston depths for the actuator pins...do save your pins they will be needed for install, also just don't chunk your old cylinders as you may need to mic this depth to adjust for shoe seating purposes. This has been a problem with some folks on other older models...may or may not apply...just an FYI
  10. I have found that I do a majority of my body welding and finishing while on my 4 post lift. Though I do have a jacking tray that slide...it is still not the most easy to make 4 wheel lifts while on the ramps. While I still do 4 wheel brake jobs and tire rotations and what not...it is with added work. I just recently purchased a used Bendpak 4 post 12K rated commercial alignment lift with walk through front. Twin rolling jacks and alignement turntables came with it. I have it rebuilt now...but cannot get my concrete man out to pour some my slab. The intent is to roll my smaller 4 post out under an awning and keep as much welding and dust from inside the shop and set the big boy in my bay where the present lift now sits. A proper made scissors will best a drive on 4 post for the most part as the wheels are free when in the air giving one an instant access to their removal. I was entertaining a scissors lift when I found the one I bought. I am comfortable on a chair with wheels doing body work.
  11. I have to agree with Keith's take on this...while nice, they are limited in their use. Also not mentioned is storage space and their very weight just moving them about. You may be better served looking at a scissor whole car lift. They are affordable and for the most part capable units. I would however probably look to adding outriggers for increased stability but maybe that is just me overthinking things....you can also leave the scissors lift in place and just park over it so no reals storage space lost.
  12. its the grapevines that is the cats meow to smoke.....
  13. IF..you get a three blade deck...ensure the blade is such that your deck will now hold down blades of tall grass while going over it and prevent the blades from cutting....this is a problem with many three bladed decks....the outer edge has no depth and yields a shallow blade pocket in these areas....here in the south, bahia is ever present...poses serious cutting issues...not sure what you may be cutting...Johnson grass is about its equal to that effect...
  14. what I find disturbing and seems to be getting worse is the so called licensed repop parts that are being supplied these days that never will bolt into place without lots of customer intervention....I thought the high cost of the license to make these were there for compliance to original shape size and material composition...seems is just a money maker for the mother company without verification of the part and process...
  15. do I hear..….PAY TO PLAY...…?? this is sad but true and it pertains to any hobby one has.....why I quit firing my 40MM Howitzer ...lol
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