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Plymouthy Adams

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Plymouthy Adams last won the day on April 22

Plymouthy Adams had the most liked content!

About Plymouthy Adams

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    A.L.F.

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern US
  • My Project Cars
    no list

Converted

  • Location
    GA
  • Interests
    lots of interests, to many to list..

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    enjoying retirement

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  1. hard to get the bul-wrinkles out of moose hide...
  2. you read over a few lines if that is what you got out of it all......lol
  3. no..I did not say that...the question was how do I know I need it...answer...by the very change to disc and keeping stock cylinder....I did not address the rears as I probably should have and as justold added, you still need the 10 psi for the rear....in regard to the lower master application you have a stock 10psi built in to master.....as you go to disc this is too much...thus the removal and addition of the 2 for disc and a 10 for the rear fitted inline.... some folks have said that they never did this and all is well....well some may still have a bit of air in their lines that is buffering the pressure...I have no knowledge of each individual application and or methods of bleed....I do know what is technically needed and the reason for it. Each can do as they choose or proceed based on a prior learning curve of the industry.
  4. number one. the stock valve is about 10PSI and that will create a drag on the calipers and keep the pads against the rotors causing drag, heat and wear. If removed completely there is the chance that the fluid will drain out of the calipers back to the master as the master is vented and will lose such fluid from the vent hole...vent is a small opening in the corner of the stock below the floor master cylinder fill plug....front caliper that are higher than the master should have a 2 PSI check valve installed to prevent the drain and yet be low enough to allow return of the pistons in the caliper....remember, it is the roll of the cut square ring seal in the piston that pulls the piston off the rotor.....
  5. interesting, make a quick look on the internet for the wiring of this system...could not find a schematic or instructional on its install.
  6. paint prior is my call...if you scratch a bit, touch it up...you will be installing accessories that will not be of the same color or may not require any paint at all. Masking after the fact will be a bit more involved. On your porting, how does this same gasket match the actual manifold now?
  7. Knuckle, I am not going to say there is not a chart of some manner out there in cyber space with the operational parameters of the oil filed ignition coil depicted. However, these coils are set up to operate with x voltage/current limitations. Most operate efficiently in 3-5 amp range input for the proper output. This is the limiting factor of the supplied voltage and dwell which is the saturation or on time and how that changes for given number of cylinders. At no time should the coil ever draw more than 8 amps. Consult the owners manual for the Mopar flathead operation of 6 volt battery, running current draw is approx. 2.5 amps. With the engine off and points closed to complete the circuit, amp draw of the coil should be approx. 5 amps. These values are not hard to measure with a VOM if capable of direct amp input and these are usually limited in hand held meters to 10 amps max and then only for a short test period. That is why it is important when going to 12 volts to tweak the voltage by proper selection of the dropping (ballast) resistor. Rule of thumb is that if the coil is reading 1.7 ohms on the primary, select a 1.7 ballast so that 1/2 of your supplied voltage is dropped across the resistor and the coil will consume the other half. This works for most any setup for street use. If you are racing and running a bit closer to upper limits..you will want to tweak this for proper current draw so to get the max output secondary voltage. As you get higher in RPM band the racing coils will have a lesser ohm value for quicker saturation and then again, tune for proper current with correct ballast. To keep the voltage input on the coil higher than needed is to also heat your internal coil temp higher than needed, this can result in expansion causing internal wear of coils and also this expansion of oil can crack/burst the case. First signs of this is the secondary coil tower. The oil is to help maintain/regulate a proper heat for consistent voltage output. This is why I do not like the GM coils with internal resistor, it has been proven that the input voltage remains higher than it should for a longer period than necessary as this resistor are temperature active. While on the average this DOES NOT necessary mean you are going to overheat the coil, it is just that you have greater voltage on the point contacts for a period longer than needed and shortens their life.
  8. your dual point conversion is that of the Dyna-flite model 406D and has direct application to the Mopar flathead 6 further, the instructions that came with this plate is as follows... Don posted his original packaging and instructions for install and setting of the points long ago..roll over 50's dist. to highlight link....see post entry #3
  9. I have never removed them even for clean up...they can be sand blasted...sleeve the threads with a rubber tube sufficient to stand up to the blasting.....then when finished, chase the threads for their personal hygiene with a die. Unless you have a broken or almost destroyed bolt due to corrosion, there is little need to address this by removal. I think otherwise, you will have to cut them out...
  10. going to need maybe two, three pencils to write that up.....
  11. now the real important facts are being told...lol if I recall, the thread of the sender of the 318 are 3/8 inch pipe....in the case of you using the original bourdon tube gauge, I do not think it will be long enough to reach the position on the 318. Most all the aftermarket gauges use a smaller bourdon tube with multiple adapters for the water jacket and a jamb nut on the bourdon tube to fix and seal the sender to the adapter... To add length to the original sender would require a splice and that is a special doable procedure...but again, the tube may not be as large, your splice bush will have to account for this irregularity at time of upgrade. I do not recall any really suitable place for a rear water port on the intake...
  12. the factory when going to 12 volts still used the standard gauges and also the same coil....they controlled the voltage from there for said operations. In controlling the coil voltage, they wired it as stated to run on 6 through the dropping resistor so not to overheat the coil which would be about 20 minutes of run time if you lucky. So they provided a start on 12 feature that would allow for a very hot spark when starting, this was in form of a second 12 volt supply to the coils side of the dropping resistor for 12 volts while in START mode only, thus the saying start on 12 run on 6.
  13. your pink wire is 12 volt supply to the dropping resisitor...the red wire on the other resistor terminal to the coil...thus when power is applied and the points are closed you have approx. 7.2 volts which is the standard 6 volt operating voltage to saturate the coil….you made no provisions of 12 volt on the coil side of the dropping resistor to provide 12 volts to the coil when starting the engine thus limiting your very voltage and ultimately the coils output spark in start mode...
  14. I do not see a wire for starting on 12, only a run on 6....
  15. the sender unit (fixed bourdon tube) should be mounted on the driver's side of the head, about 3/4 or so from the front of the engine....if so equipped with oil filter, it will be adjacent to the filter lid...there is no sender in the intake....
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