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Plymouthy Adams

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Plymouthy Adams last won the day on June 6

Plymouthy Adams had the most liked content!

About Plymouthy Adams

  • Rank
    A.L.F.

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern US
  • My Project Cars
    no list

Converted

  • Location
    GA
  • Interests
    lots of interests, to many to list..

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  • Occupation
    enjoying retirement

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  1. capture plates are by their own name....CAPTURED...only if the capture housing have been destroyed by rust, compromised by prior bad acts of maintenance will they drop EVEN at that...you can still get your hands on them...AGAIN...these mechanisms will do their best to fool you into thinking t hey are shot, wore out and beyond use when the majority of the time they only need a super good cleaning.....if and when you remove the latch to clean and lube will you see the very locking means of the star rotor...then and only then will the light come on...
  2. one would have to have access to the build data sheet for that engine to identify it correctly....as the boss was cut and the original number NLA...you could on disassembly read the crank and gauge the bore....measure the stroke....that is probably going to be the best other means to identify it...
  3. I don't think the cops have that much stuff on their dash....cruising the center lane….and the dice dots could be consider hybrid analog/digital...like the fingernails and toe nails...they dots....that is why they are referred to as digits...…..(definitions found only in my home dictionary.....🤩)
  4. I know here in the US with owning a couple of English cars, some of we owners will jointly order our needed spares and make a package deal where the shipping cost is divided among the members greatly relieving the cost to an individual order. There are a number of owners in the UK, I would think collectively you folks could also did similar. Or jut buy a few extras and make it back on UK e-bay
  5. clean the latch assembly....really clean it and lube it..removal is the better way to service this
  6. other side was completed today just ahead of a possible rain coming through...was pushing to get this frame and trunk extension tied together and some primer on it... I have three more repairs yet to do in the floor before I button it up and weld in the overlay panels here. One involves cutting out a brace to fix the floor beneath it and repair the brace metal itself. These repairs should take care of this car's trunk for some time to come. I have to come up with a drain of some sort to correct what is a factory design fault in the hood and trunk lids. The floor damage is pretty bad...the hood and trunk suffers even worse damage...but that is another story.
  7. yes, typically the ballast resistor is the same ohm rating as that of the internal resistance of the primary circuit of the coil
  8. my seal is still effective, but the pressure release valve is a bit more active...
  9. if a two wire you will have only 28-32 ohms across the two terminals of the sender...AND this is divided by the wiper (ground) to post 1 and 2......if you have 10 ohms on 1 you will have 20 ohms on 2 This action needs to be smooth and linear as it divides the resistance....this gauge is designed to pull the needle in both directions at the same time..
  10. on the 48, you should be a two wire setup....the second series (p15 carry over into 1949) could have the single wire....which one do you have....?
  11. I appreciate your confidence...but to come to Jersey.....not on my bucket list at this time......best thing is bring it to GA....lol The next two phase of the trunk pan incorporates repairing damage to the rear cross tie at the back of the trunk....on each side. The floor pan overlay is your tip off to damage, looking beneath you see the rot....then you also have damage to the trunk extensions. All in all quite the process to cut out, make the repair sections, weld each section in proper order. This side is ready now for the application of some primer and then I will weld the overlay that will fix the floor pan that side..
  12. this pic is for you...…………………………..
  13. you are not showing the lip of the jack hook....
  14. that is answer to part one.....electrically, where are you at?
  15. I suggest a shim in place to see how much of a bend it will require to place back into position....another questionable tweak could be the B-post
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