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About Alexander

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Biography
    1947 Plymouth 1951 Dodge Coronet Convertible
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  1. Weight of a front P15 Fender

    I had mine off about 5 years ago. The sheet metal is probably around 20 LBS
  2. 1st and 3rd Grinding

    I appreciate all the feedback! The original Gyromatic never worked so I swapped it out for a 3 speed and have this problem ever since. I am hesitated in believing its the syncro as 1st gear has no syncro. Some how for some reason the input shaft is still turning even though at a stop and clutch is fully pressed. Maybe the car has the wrong clutch? too thick?
  3. 1st and 3rd Grinding

    I never greased the pilot bushing or ever touched them. I welcome any other thoughts or ideas. Thanks!
  4. 1st and 3rd Grinding

    Greg Absolutely correct! Going in to 2nd before selecting 1st does help. I have been doing this trick for some time now. I am fairly certain the synchros are fine and that this is a clutch disengagement problem. I have the clutch adjustment maxed but still feel the input spinning when slowly slecting 1st. what else can I do to get more "throw" on the clutch? is there somting i can shim? Engine RPM is very low (~350)
  5. 1st and 3rd Grinding

    its my understanding 1st and 3rd dont have Synchro?
  6. 1st and 3rd Grinding

    Hi Folks Kind of stumped here. I switched out my Gyromatic for a manual 3 speed with Fluid drive. Everything appears to be set up and adjusted correctly. However no matter how I adjust the clutch 3rd gear will always grind when going from 2 to 3. Also when selecting 1st gear from a stop, I feel soft brief grind. After careful evaluation It feels as if the clutch plate is every so slightly not full separating??? I adjusted the clutch to the max but still have the grind. Any thoughts? Thanks
  7. It was an honor and privilege to participate in the 2017 Greenwich Concours d'Elegance with our 1951 Dodge Coronet Convertible. To be recognized among Duesenbergs Cadilacs & Packards that are worth hundreds of thousands of dollars was very faltering. I met lots of cool people and including Wayne Carini from the TV show Chasing Classic Cars. Wayne liked the car and could not believe that was the original factory color (Kachina Bronze). The most popular attraction on the car was the "Dodge Ram". Most did not know that dodge used the Ram for short period during the early 50s.
  8. Rust free 40 plymouth sedan

    Wow, that floor carpet looks outstanding! Is that molded carpet? I have never seen such a good contoured fit. Who sells that? Please tell us more. Thanks!
  9. 49-52 Dodge coronet Front springs (update)

    Hi Folks, The forum has been very good to me over the years. When the opportunity comes around I like to give back when I can. I finally found a viable solution for coil springs that work perfectly on my 1951 Dodge Coronet (perhaps same for 49-52). After extensive researching and trial and error, I found the following solution: Moog 8650 work PERFECT and appears to have the car siting at factory stock height or maybe .25" lower. Moog 5606 works well but the car sits lower than factory by about 1.5 inches. Moog CC850 do not work at all and the car sits on the stops ***Note the above is on a 1951 Dodge Coronet Convertible. I would like to assume the same holds true for other 6 cyl Mopars from 49-52. Hopefully this can help someone, however I do not take responsibility for your outcome. Alexander
  10. Front Coil Springs

    I echo the message from rb1949. CC850 also did not work on my 1951 Dodge coronet. They were WAY too short. The car sat on the rubber stops. Perhaps these springs work well on pre 1949 Mopars?
  11. After reading how well the CC850 springs work with the 40s/50s cars, I decided to give them a try. Well, after spending all morning to install them, I find they are not going to work for my application (stock 1951 Dodge coronet Convertible). The springs are just WAY too short and the car sits on the rubber stops. Oh well :-( If any one wants them send me a message. $50 + shipping Alexander
  12. Replace Bearings?

    Thanks gentlemen! All great feedback. The more I read about this the more I realize, the time has come for a total rebuild. However its just not the right time right now. I have a few scheduled car events coming up that I cant miss. Perhaps I should just put it all back together and do a full rebuild over the Fall season. I need the car to do another 300-400 miles this year before can commit to a total rebuild. I hope she can do it? Ill keep you posted as this develops. Thanks!
  13. Replace Bearings?

    This project can quickly snow ball :-( I Don't want to take out the crank to mic anything out. Short of put it all back together and calling it a day, what off the shelf shortcut can I take to give this old girl a quick refresher? Thanks, Alex
  14. Replace Bearings?

    Hi Folks! While changing out the rear main seal, I noticed some scoring on the rear main bearing. Crank seems ok for the most part and should clean up with 2000 paper. Measuring the rear main bearing with plastigage shows .003 clearance. Checking the shop manual seems to suggests I am still in spec? Would you agree? I am not ready to do a full rebuild at this time but would like to possibly refresh the bottom end by replacing all the bearings. Is that ok to do? If so how do you determine the current size bearings without measuring the crank? The current bearing is marked x10. (see attached pictures). Does that mean standard? My oil presure has always been poor (10 at hot idle). I am seeking the boards advise and possible direction. Thanks! Alexander
  15. Oil pickup tube & screen

    Thanks guys! will do