greg g

I believe the pistons are all flat top. 4 ring aluminum oval ground.

I looked through all my hint sources. I believe it to be in the 26-29 vintage, but I could not find any with smooth fenders and a suicide hinnged front door. Thought maybe Buick, Oakland, or other upscale marque but didn't see anything close. the windshield split is a bit different than you see. So I'm guessing 27 Hudson or Essex. Wood spoke wheels, louvered hood, and suicide doors are atributes of that line and vintage.

Fisk, When it's time to re-tire.

That many posts about Stratus' (Strati?) How could they be that interesting????

Mopar v8's will go in but need to be offset to the pass side so the dr side exhaust manifold will clear the steering box. May need to do a little massaging on the fire wall. Do a search for Dakota. Some good stuff about swaping a Dakota pickup front frame clip. then you get multiple motor mounts possibilities from 2.5 4 banger to 440, you also get r and p steering, disc brakes. Fairly easy if you have good measuring, cutting and welding skills. You will need to make up some sheet metal mounting points for the front.

could be you have your spark plug wires mis indexed on the diz cap. When I did mine I had them one tower off. Drove me nuts. Started at the beginning with static time to #1 TDC and re did it. Fired up so quickly after it scared me. When you say turns over slowly, do you menan in comparison to 12 V or compared to other 6 V systems???

Nature's clearcoat.....Hate when that happens, hope all is OK. We had a bad one hear in the NE about 10 years ago. about a week after I went to NH to do a road rally. When we got to looking around it looked like sombody flew over the woods with an upside down helicopter, cutting off the top 3/4 feet of all the trees. Still looks wierd up that way.

Fellow also had a Tattersfield MOPAR intake. I found it throug another search last I looked it was just south of 400 bucks. I guess this seems to be the going rate for vintage intakes and ehausts. Glad I got my fenton when I did. Gotta admit those tattersfield pieces are very nice eye candy. gotta wonder about the flow though.

Don it can get frustrating till you get the hang of it and muscle memorie takes over. Try this. Right click on you desk top and create a folder called Forum pics or something similar. Place the pice you want to post in this file by doing a save as "desktop folder name". The browse button allows you to sort through the locations on your computer where you have stuff stored. So find desk top, open you folder and select your images, by clicking on the image file than hitting open. when you get back to the manage att. pop up, it will allow you to select others by hitting browse again. I believe the message about size can be adressed by selecting the resolution/sharpness setting on your camera. remember you are posting snapshots not portraits. This may be especially true on current cameras with many mega pixels. The camera I use is an old one with 1.3 MP so I never get a image size message. remember to select the go advanced button on you message. This will allow you to preview your post to see if your files are attached and they are the ones you intended. Keep hacking at it you'll get it.

They probably retain the Plymouth fenders on the P15 bodies on the 46-E49's as they don't have the fenders flairling into the door like the Dodge. Don;t know about the 50's stuff as they widened the body to the fender width.

Follow this to the HAMb board and some You Tube stuff on Adult delinquents gravity racing. Na na na nanna nahhhhhhhh!!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227484

Canadian Dodges were US plymouth bodies with Dodge front sheetmetal and badging. Take a look at Howdy from texas thread above to see what a whole one looks like. All Can manufactured MOPARS used the 25 inch block engine. so ye need to know that for engine parts. If it is the original engine it is probably a 230 Cu in. But the engine sompartment seems a bit breezy so maybe that is a moot point. If thee is an engine some where, the number should be on a flat boss o the block just above the genny If you post that number, thee should be a bit of information available. Check the pics in the members list, I thinkg there might be one or two more for reference. These fast backs seem to be coming out of the woodwork lately. Good luck and Welcome to the forum.

Ya know as Fugly as that camper cap is, it is kinda unique in a Canastoga, Donner pass kinda way. Might hafta have it for my Studebaker, suppose you can ship it Greyhound??????

Well I noticed this phenomenum up close and personal. Seems my coupe had an add on under dash courtesy light. To me it looked pretty hokey as it used an bulb holder with a dual contact base, and a single element bulb with a wire that I thought came from the door switch. Well the wire came from power, to one wire on the pigtail, through the bulb to the other wire of the pig tail, to the grounding door switch. In my ignorance, I replaced the bulb holder with a single wire re wired as I htough it should be, opend the door, cooked everything when I pluggen in the conector. Big DUH!!!! So becareful out there, I guess that is what they make continuity testors and circuit testors for.

Hey Tim don't forget the stroke part of the CR equation. I noticed that with my 230 the piston to top of block clearence is nearly nill, on the 218, it is nearly 1/8 inch. So the 230 has considerably more squeeze than the 218. so if the machined area in the 218 head is smaller, a 218 head on a 230 would yield more squeeze still. I think some one mentioned that the 42 218 head had the smallest chamber. Be interesting is some one could cc a punch of heads to see "the rest of the story" On the various spec charts areoun looks like each .5 addition to the CR yields about 5 HP, so it would be good info.

Or you can upload directly from you computer. If I only have a couple pics, I take them from the camera (or other file) and save them to my desktop. Then using the manage attachments feature of this forum, attach them to the post as thumbnails. This hoost server here will hold them and allow viewers to click on and enlarge them. That way you don;t have to register with a hosting site if you don't want to. The manage attachments button is on the new post page, scroll down and it will open a new window. From there hit the browse button locate and up load you pics.

One thing to remember with engine stands aside from the weight rating, is the wheel location. Do not buy the simple three wheel deal, these are very unstable. You want the front casters to be as wide as possible. I bought the 1000 pounder from HF when it was on sale, It held the Flatty just fine. didn't seem to sag and was easy to push around the garage.

LOve those aero back 2doors. First car I remember was a 49 Dodge my father had. Dodges were basically the same although becuase of their longer wheelbase the flow from roof to truck made them look like they had a bustle added on. That car does look nice. Looks straight enough to be black and shiney. Wonder if you could just have the current finish clearcoated to give it more gloss? If you go to the moain page of this site, you will find a parts sources section, George Asche is listed, he does split manifolds, and sells carbs and linkage ready to plug an play. Also if you contact Olddaddy of this forum, he can also split your manifolds (he sells a front disc brake conversion also) Easiest way to make some more ponies is to up the compression ratio by milling the head and deck. Thee is a current thread dealing with this subject, but 50 to 60 thousandths off seems to be a consensus for good engine response without putting a lot of extra stress on the the crank, tods and stuff. What is the enigne number?? Stamped on a casting boss on the front of the block above the genny. Some folks get their knckers in a knot about the term restoration, as it implies following those tenants espoused by the Plymouth Owners Club under its judging crieria, which is to return the car to just left the factory condition. This is why lot of folks here don't belong to the POC, as they have remade their cars to their liking, not to that other standard. Some of us a closet members of the POC, they do have a good publication and their get togethers are fun, but our cars are not up to standard. And some of us are POCO, Plymouth owners club outcasts, agitiating at each opportunity for changing the judging criteria. Anyway you do it, its yours and do it the way you want to. just keep it running.

Lets see some pic man.

I would think it is more likely to be the M-6 Semi automatic trans. these were much more common in Chryslers than the stick trans. Is there a OD cable under the dash board???? http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/012A/index.htm

Hey Louman, tell me about the jeepster please.

Had a couple cut at a swap year or so ago. Not a mopar blank but you lock guy might be able to cross reference to this brass blank. Brand is Star (HPLI) code Y131 X1996

If it were me, I'd leave well enough alone on that thermostat housing. Changing to the other style necesitates a change in the water pump gasket also. As the two different housings indicat a different bypass rout for the coolant until the thermostate opens. If you are determined to change it wait until you have the radiator out to change the tube. If you are concerned about the shape of the tube ( and running at 160 indicates its probably in condition) you can take some temp readings of the head sruface temp by pointing one of those infra red surface sensor thermometer at it. If the temps are fairly even across the area over the valves yer probably good to go. Keep in mind where the heater line outlet is is probably where the coolant is the hottest. Nice looking car, love those 39 headlamps. Glad you got it driveable thats what its all about, cept of course for the stopping..... Bleed from the pass side rear, dr r, pass frnt, dr front. And as long as you have the top off the MC, shine a light down in and make sure you can see two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. One for feeding the piston, one for allowing the pressure to release and return the fluid to the cylinder.

Towed a dual axle U haul to Fla. packed with household stuff. Using a Class B camper. This had a mopar 360 with OD whic was engaged. Except for a few places in the Blue ridge area, it stayed in and locked up. Don't even wanna think about the fuel milage w/o OD. Something to remember though, modern OD transmissions are a gear set with in the regular transmission and not a planatery OD. So "When it doubt, switch it out!" I would think straight and level with a light load would be fine.

This one located in Connecticut. Nice looking vehicle aside from that diamond plate thing on the rear. Seats are a bit iffy. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Tow-Truck-great-winter-project-circa-1945_W0QQitemZ110202437948QQihZ001QQcategoryZ6210QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem