greg g

Somebody on e bay was selling a long block with a Split intake and split header style exhaust. I don;t remember what they said condition wise other than it was out of a driving vehicle, they had a buy it now in the 1200 to 1500 dollar range. I found it using keywords mopar flathead ina general search. don;t know when it was ending but I noticed it wed or thursday.

Aren't the rods slightly offset to account for the difference between the cylinder bore centers and the crank throw centers??? I looked in the manual late last night and it gives a vague reference to maintaining matched pairs but doesn't go into detail. I know it has been discussed that they can be installed incorrectly, but I don't think any one has ever detailed how to install new ones that haven't been previously refrenced as to which cylinder they came from. I would imagine getting it right is very important, and would not proceed without that certain knowledge, and assurance.

If you haven't reassembled the window frames back in the doors yet, here is an additional step you might want to consider. On the nuts that are on the pivot post with the spring on them, put some thread locker on or change the nuts to a locknut style. Both my vent wings loosened up after 5 years and were flopping in the breeze this summer. I removed the garnish thinking I would have to go fishing for the nuts in the bottom of the doors. Luckily they had only backed off and not fallen off. I replaced both with NYLOCK fasteners. and adjusted the spring pressure to where I felt comfortable wit the vent operation vs its ability to resist wind pressure. Hopefully I won't need to think about them again.

We have sun and +17 headed for about 20. Gonna do some puttering on teh Studie box. Soem sanding may some small bondo bits. Garage temp is 45. Got a slight problem with the pilot side landing gear this morning. might need some warming of the joint oil before taxiings out.

It consists of an assembly the fits on the carb and holdt the clamp and the linkage pieces.

Yes

Check your Private Message file.

Well I guess I completely overlooked the fact that you were in Finland. I keep forgetting we are an international community. So for international sources here are a few: just make sure the backspace measurment isn't more than 3.75 inch. Toyota Crown, Hilux PU Toyota - 2WD P.U. '69-'89 - Supra Turbo '86-'89 Mazda - RX7 Turbo, 929, Datsun/Nissan - 300ZX, 200SX V6 (some) to '89

If this is the type of heater you have, you adjust the amount of heat by the valve, and the direction of heat by opeing and closing the vent flaps. These are quite effective at providing heat for the car. The defrost controlled by pulling the deforst knob is a bit limited as thee is no pickup of outside air. Consequently the air inside the car gets blown back up on the window and there is no dehumidification. So for best defrost, the cowl vent needs to be slightly open which kind of defeats the purpose of the heater. Also fo best de frost, the flaps on the bottom should remain closed. So while they produce a bunch of heat, it is not the best thought out system.

Stock rims are 4.5 inches wide. I am running 225 75 15 on my bizzy coupe ( rears, 205 on the front) but I have them on wheelvintiques 5 inch wide rims. I believe 225 is pushing pretty hard on the stock rims. Lots of folks are running 205's on stockers but as you noted they are short on diameter. The 225 are a tight fit and I do get a little fender rub on hard turns, which is related I believe to worn spring bushings as it does it going right more frequently than going left, but I did have 300 lbs of stuff in the trunk also. I would think the 215 are pretty much the limit on the 4.5 in wheels. As a note the 225 were just about dead on against several measured miles on the odo. If stock hubcaps are not an issue, you should be able to easily find some wider dodge or Ford 15 inch wheels at a wrecking yard. Charlie Ackers has some MOPAR police wheels withthe dog dish hubs on his Plymouth Suburban. They would leasily accomodate the 225's. 5 bolt light pu and van rims either ford of dodge will bolt on no problem.

Cold air hasn't quite made it to balmy Central New York. About 22 but dropping through the day. Single digits tonight supposedly.

Apparently Don is well prepared for ripping through traffic and crosscutting the parking lot.

Mine had one bolt through the tray and the shelf ont he inner fender. The other post fo the top bracket is attached to the inner fender.

Tranny fluid supposedly will work. Also heard of cocktail of Trans fluid and kero.

There are a couple different valves but they are all located on the rear passenger side of the head. If it has not been operated in a while it might be frozen or clogged with debris. If it won't operate with a bit of effort, It is probably a good idea to remove it, and give it a soak in vinegar or dilute phosphoric acid. I would give it a good soaking with a good penetrating oil before trying to open it or remove it. Easiest test to see if its opened is the hoses will get hot. Here is a twist to open type.

I believe the blocks are all the same bolt pattern concern. Bellhousings are different depending on application. trucks are different than cars, fluid drives are diffeent that dry clutch. Also crankshafts are different. Some are 4 bolt typically plymouth w/o fluid drive, dodges have 8 bolts, for the heavier fluid drive assembly, I have one with a 6 bolt (later 230 plymouth) That about does it for the short block engines (210, 218, 230 ) The long block cars Chrysler, Desoto, and Canadian manufacture may have some different permutations but the bell housings are interchangable. Pre 35 the position of the starter was different as the engine block casting were different. So thee might be some differnces n the bell housing to reflect this change.

Here is a link to one with a bit more interesting induction, however it to is single exhaust. http://www.flickr.com/photos/9255485@N04/sets/72157600508510457/with/634579257/

These are available on ebay express 50 for 6 bucks http://item.express.ebay.com/42-43-44-45-46-PLYMOUTH-DOOR-QTR-UPHOL-PANEL-SCREWS_W0QQitemZ220129020534QQihZ012QQcmdZExpressItem

The flywheel is bolted to the crank, the clutch assembly is bolted to the flywheel. The bell housing covers the spinning assembly mounte to the frame and mounts the tranny. with the radiator out, the fan off, the engine should come forward far enough to release the input shaft from the pilot bushing and throwout bearing, If there is a concern than the tranny should come out and the bell would then come out with the engine after the rear mounts were disconected from the frame. But on the truck doesn't the clutch/brake pedal assembly mount to the bellhousing??? and if so wouldn;t then need to be dealt with also?

Since this is on the PH side I will guess your are pulling a truck engine. My experience has been with a car but the mechanical conections between the engine and bellhousing are only the bolts conecting the belhousing to the engine. when split the engine will slide off the tranny input shaft leaving the flywheel and clutch assembly attached tot eh flywheel. If the front sheet metal is off the donor vehicle the job will be a lot easier. the engine needs to acheive a very steep angle to clear the radiator support, so one of those levelers for the cherry picker is a must. Pull it up a bit level and them wiggle it forward to release the splined shaft from the clutch friction disc. When that releases it pretty much up angle and out.

And don't forget that gasket between the trans and bellhousing.

Replace teh belt and do not over tension it. There should be about 1/4 inch or a bit more of up and down movement in the belt half way between the genny and the fan pulley. If the noise goe away with the new belt you know where the noise was from. If it is still there, use a piece of dowel or a cut off broom handle like a stethescope. Hold it against a non oving part of the pump and or genny and put the other end to your ear. this will help you isolate the source

Several folks, me included, have found it helpful to fabricate some guid pins. You do this by getting some 3 or 3 1/2 inch long bolts of correct size, and cut the heads off. threading them loosley into two of the transmission mounting bolt holes will allow you to slide the transmission on and align the input shaft intot he pilot bushing without bashing the clutch or fouling the alignment of the friction diss within the pressure plate. the only caution here is to make sure they are cut long enough to provide support, but short enougn to allow you to back the our of the holes. I utilized the lower drivers side and the upper passenger slide holes. Of course the whole process is much easier if you remove the center panel of the front seat floor. Another helpful change is to replace the standard bolts with allen head cap screws. Putting these in with a hex head socket and a couple of extensions makes getting the bolts back in a much easier proposition than the regular bolts, as a couple of them are blind and long reaches if you haven't pulled the floor section.

Maybe we'll meet up again, spend more than 5 minutes. I'll let you know what my plans are. Probably goin early since I can travel at will these days.

Rodney, you going to the Studebaker swap in York. End of February at thr York co fairgrounds?