greg g

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Everything posted by greg g

  1. Try rotating the drive shaft 180 degrees. Take it off the differential flange twist it 180 and fasten it back up. Strange but might do the deed. While you are under three, assure that the park brake is fully released when off.
  2. There is a rubber isolation pad between the steering box and the frame. If it goes squishy like old oil soaked rubber can, it can allow road forces to feed back through the tie rods etc and move the box around. Also if tour steering system has the "Y" shaped center arm, spoiled rubber parts there can also make the car loosey goosey down the road.
  3. First and reverse are not synchronized. Engaging second briefly engages seconds synchro which stops the rotation of the input shaft easing the shift.
  4. With the car at rest and idling, clutch pedal to the floor, briefly select second gear, then shift to first. If the grind goes away or lessens, it indicates your synchros are worn or that the input shaft is still turning slightly because the clutch is not fully disengaged. This usually comes from not having enough free play in the clutch linkage,and can be addressed by adjusting the linkage to be longer so it moves the throw bearing fork more. You need the pedal to move about an inch before it starts moving linkage. Also what is your idle rpm?
  5. That little thing is in the power jet it functions to provide an enriched air fuel mix to sustain the needed jolt that the accelerator pump initially supplies when you open the throttle. Under high manifold vacuum situations a vacuum signal from the manifold pulls the needle down against the spring holding the jet closed for idle and partial throttle cruise. When manifold vacuum drops, the spring opens the jet providing more gas. I have seen a car go from poor running black smoker getting about 11mpg to to good runner getting 19 mpg, just by virtues of sorting this fuel circuit. Glad you found it and fixed it.
  6. My p15 manual which covers up to P20 specifies 5 quarts plus one when changing the filter. In the 60's most owner manual spec's changing the filter every other oil change. Most brands showed up that way in the Sunoco lubrication charts I worked with at my high school years job at the Sunoco station. The Sunoco station was the place to be on Friday evening and Sunday mornings as the dirt track racers always based up their modifiers for Friday night races and drag racers on Sunday AM. Everybody it seems wanted that Blue Sunoco 104 octain for their cars. So put in 5 QTS, run it and check it.
  7. Nice looking car. Hope the knock is an easy repair.
  8. Cool!
  10. Does it maintain the "normal" shift pattern? R. 2 N 1. 3
  11. Switch is dumb making one power in makes the other power out when the brake pedal is pushed. You can abondon the stock power wire in place but tape it off so you don't get any unwanted sparking as it will still be hot when disconnected.
  12. Before you mount them with tubes, check the inside of the tires to make sure there are no mylar bar code stickers left in the tire. They are typically on the side wall area. If left over time chaff the tubes eventually leading to holes and flat tires. This has happened to a couple members of this forum and several other folks I have spoken with. Cocker does not mention this in their mounting instructions and takes no responsibility for any failures leaving them in may cause. I also remember from having tubed tires mounted the installer using baby powder or cornstarch as a buffer to prevent stiction between tireand tube. Probably more of a concern with radials as they by design have more side wall flex and sidewall movement than bias ply tires. Good luck with your decision.
  13. Locate the starter solenoid. It will have two heavy gauge cables attached. One from the battery and one going down to the starter. On the battery side you will notice a couple of smaller wires. These provide power circuits for items that can be powered even with the ignition switch in the off position. Like lights. Basically you are going to run an independent power wire for the brake light switch. Locate the brake light switch. It is one a fitting on the brake fluid lines down near the master cylinder. It will have two wires coming out the top of the switch. If you are not familiar with what the switch looks like google hydraulic brake light switch. They are still used today on atv's, motor cycles, and scooters. Once you locate it, make up a wire of sufficient length with an inline fuse holder (15 amp fuse works) to run from the solenoid to the switch, and attach a terminal ring on one end to fit on the solenoid terminal, and an end suitable to attach the wire to the switch terminal. You can use crimp on or solder on fitting as befits your skill set. The switch doesn't care about which terminal is which. One is power in the other will be power out regardless. You can test you brake light by temporarily bypassing the switch and connecting the new wire to the wire that runs toward the back of the car. Then connect the new power wire to the solenoid terminal. You should have power to the trunk and thus to the brake light assembly. Do you have a electric meter or test light to assure you actually have power to critical parts of the circuit? If you bypass the switch and have power to the brake light, you should have a light assuming your bulb is good and there is a proper ground. If not then you have a problem in the wire from the switch to the trunk. There is a spot up near where the top of the back seat interfaces with the trunk inside the trunk where the wires feed down from under the headliner to enter the trunk. There are butt connectors there where the wires split off to go to their light fixtures, assure that all these connections are tight. While you are there trace the wires and liable them for future reference. Once you have the brake light wire identified check it for power at the light fixture end. If you have power good bulb and ground you should have a light. Now connect the switch and recheck, with someone holding the brake pedal down. If you have no power then, that points to a bad switch that you will need to replace. Old cars are fun!!!!
  15. Running 225 75 on after market rims. Fit is close and I used to get some tire rub with a full trunk and gas tank when packed for road trip, on sharp turns. Put new spring shackle bushings on, most rub dissapeared. I tried 235's had to pry spring down to get wheel tire to clear going on. Running 205 75 fronts. The 4 1/2 inch rims are " not recommended" 235's 5 inch probably the minium for 235's. Just an advisory.
  16. We are job security for the big pharma companies. Feeling OK, been bouncing around between doctors for followups. Only lasting effects are visual. Floaters and after images at the edge of vision, and some dizziness from the new blood pressure med which has been doubled since first prescribed. Since dizziness was the major symptom of the situation, it is worry some when it starts. But bp is 130/83 down from 142/90 couple weeks ago. No thinners yet, but things do change. One plus, lost 13 pounds.
  17. I have debated making this post, but I decided to pass on an experience over Memorial Weekend in hope that other folks in my age group 65 +, will not have the same problem. On Friday afternoon I was finishing up a lawn mowing session by reattaching down spout extensions. Bent over, got a weird feeling. Vertigo, blurred swirling vision, loud noises in my ear, like being in an MRI machine. Didn't fall and banged on the house to get my wife's attention. She came out and assisted me to get to the deck and sitting down. She dialed 911 and the local ambulance paramedics arrived. I was transported to the emergency room. They diagnosed a TIA or mini stroke and set about doing what needed done, after about 20 minutes the symptoms reoccurred in earnest. Seems that I had transitioned to an actual stroke. They got me to the Stroke Center, found and removed the offending clot using the catheterization technique. After about three hours, l found myself in ICU doing neurological checks every ten minutes or so. Long story short, I am a very fortunate, thank full, old dude. No defecites in speach, movement, vision or other ill effect's. Discharge instructions are to do follow ups, andt to resume normal activities as tollerated. Like I said very lucky, very grateful for level of expertise available. Guess it is true that God watches over fools and drunks. So guys, as I look back at some other incidents, it is clear that in the past two or three years I have had more than one of these traneient instances of fuzziness, a bit of wonky vision, and some tripping and near falls that weren't attributable to my normal lack or graceful athletic movements. If you even suspect that you aren't 100%, put down the tool, pick up the phone and call 911. Seconds count!!! May you be as close as I was to expert help and great facilities. Don't be a bonehead like I was in ignoring the situation. End of soapbox. Enjoy the upcoming weekend. Greg G
  18. Blk ground Grn to coil. Might be ground sensitive and not work on pos grand White to ign on hot for power and light. I think blue chip was made by sun for places like western auto sears etc. Colors are almost spot on with an old sun dash mount I have.
  19. Very nice! More pics please....
  20. VW and Audi and several others still use them. What's unusual is the left hand threads on one side and eighty tightly on the other...
  21. Three words! Boiled Linseed Oil. Preserve, protect, has a semi gloss sheen. Popular with antique farm implement and tool folks, and Antiquers too. Check you tube there are a couple bids. One even is a dodge truck.
  22. You do know that the car only has one brake light, the center one near the trunk handle. Out board lights are tail lights only unless you have turn signals. You can power the brake light separately through an in line fuse if you want to by making up a fused wire to run from the batteryside solenoid terminal to the brake lamp switch. This will take the brake light out of the headlight switched circuit. It will likely make the brake light brighter also.
  23. Except that they didn't have carpets, hope you find something.
  24. There are some references to late 57-59 end of production for cars, were the "best head for combustion efficiency". These may be the ones from the engine with numbers beginning with "M". The truck engines that continued to the early 70's probably didn't get these. 138 HP in the 57 dodge 135 for Plymouth, both at 8 to 1 car.
  25. Good question, anybody know??? Gotta be a chart somewhere. Maybe the AOK folks might have a clue.