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greg g

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Everything posted by greg g

  1. Currently have 45000 miles and 15 years on my set of AC 45, pulled them last year a couple were out of gap but they all looked just fine thank you. My compression readings are 130 to 135.
  2. I have a 46 with 4:11 rear. Ran it for years with 225 75 tires. They calculated to 3280 rpm at 62 mph (65 indicated). When I swapped in a freshly rebuilt engine, my machinist told me a cruising rpm of 80 to 85 percent of peak hours rpm was sustainable for extended cruising speed. Must be so, I have made dozens of trips of over 200 miles are those speeds over the past 14 years with no issues. This does assume an engine in known good internal condition and operation within proper temp and oil pressure perameters.
  3. Running 225/75-15 on the rear, speedo off by 3mpg, reads faster than gps indicates. Make sure your spring rubber bushings are in good condition, I had some fender rub when negotiation sharp turns before I put new rubber bushings in the rear spring eyes.
  4. Try a place that deals with water pumps like used on farm Wells and such. Or garden tractor hydraulic systems.
  5. Does any one have any information regarding interpreting the model codes on Chrysler more Chrysler Method liscenced rebuilders? There was a brass tag on the engine I pulled from my 46 that stated for replacement parts specify model B. So what did model B signify??? One could assume a model A was rebuilt to stock sizes and specs, did a Model B suggest a one standard size cylinder overbore, and a model C was overbore and crank turned? Enquiring minds want to know when out hunting the elusive Mopar power plant.
  6. I will ask the dumb question. Are you sure it is not vacuum powered? Plymouths had vacuum powered tops, hence the question.
  7. I have one. You can have it copy it or borrow it till someone else needs it. It comes with switch and harness attached, condition??? Switch moves in and out freely. One of four wires in excellent condition! Except the four inches were there is no insulation... Please pardon the inclusion of the large screwdriver and roll of duct tape aka Ford repair kit.
  8. Running detergent oil in an engine that has not been running for it's previous life can be a problem in that when doing its job, breaks up the sludge and deposits and transports them to the filter. With the full flow system,all of that is being passed through the filter, which is good. Until the filter gets clogged, then all of it gets circulated back through the engine, which is not good. So the consideration to change to detergent oil, might make an investment in a bunch of filter elements, worth while which would be changed frequently to get the stuff out of the engine. Dropping the oil pan will help get a lot out, but deposits in other areas of the oil circulation circuit,, can still hold a lot of deposits. Not saying you shouldn't do it but to be forwarned of the situation before you do it. If these are limited use vehicles, you can appreciate the length of time it might take to get the old nasty out of the engines.
  9. Loose is better than tight. Loose means they are all coming against their seats and benfiiting from cooling. To tight they can remain open andproone to burning.
  10. Runs well, why are you messing with it? How much has it been driven since rebuild? What were the cold settings?I set mine cold, haven't given them thought in 45 k miles since.
  11. For Daisy, you mentioned your cars are both Chryslers. Do they have bypass style filters tin can looking thing with two steel tubes attached, or full flow a cast canister bolted directly to the block? The bypass style only get about 15% of total of circulating oil, the full flow gets all of it. Both have replaceble elements and do the same job only differently and can have a bearing on your oil choice.
  12. Blow by vapors coming from the breather cap after shut down is pretty normal for high mileage engines with no positive crankcase ventilation. And alot of it is due to water vapor from condensation build up from doing a lot of low speed short trips where the coolant gets warm but the block stays cool.Gett her up to temp take her for a 20 to 40 mile run at a good clip as long as you have good operating temp 170 to 190, cruising oil pressure of 30 plus enjoy the drive, smile and wave more and have fun.
  13. So let's consider your vehicles let's assume Edna is a high mileage car with an unknown service and maintanence history. If it runs, I would three tests to determine basic engine condition. A cold dry compression test. Remove the plugs attach a compression gauge taking care not to insert any further than the spark plugs go in. Crank the engine till the highest reading is attianed and record the reading. My guess is it wine between 70 -80 do each cylinder in order front to back. The fdifference between highest of 10% or so is normal. Greater difference may indicate a problem with that cylinder. For step two squirt about a teaspoon full of oil down the sparkplug hole and repeat the test again recording the readings, they should be higher as the oil will call the rings to the cylinder wals allowing for more pressure. Here you should be around 100 to 130psi. If you have a cylinder that doesn't increase, you can assume that cylinder has worn rings, or in cars with no or very low readings that don't improve you can suspect stick or leaking valves but you will know which needs attention. Have seen these engines run just find on fifty pounds of compression, run fine but have no power for acceleartion or climbing grades. Now for the vacuum gauge. Attach the gauge to the intake manifold there should be a plug meant to power the vacuum wipers on older models, the plug will come out and allow the gauge to be hooked up through an adapter fitting that should be in with the gauge. With the engine running at idle 450 to 500 rpms fully up to operating temp. The gauge should show pull of 18 to 22 inches of Mercury, and be steady. When you rev the engine it should drop to zero to five inches but sna back to the higher reading when back at idle. This would be a sign of a healthy engine. If you have a low reding or a needle that flicks around, these readings can be interpreted to indicate certain problems. For a good rticle on these readings go to the Secondchncegarage web site check out the vacuum gauge section. When you get these done we can proceed with a reasonable investigation f what the goo in the oil pan consits of and how to go forward. Report back with your results. There is a method to this madness.
  14. Well after many years of due consideration I have arrived at the following conclusion which I posted on the POC face book page in the discussion of the same question. We should run a cocktail of lubricants that honor the past, wonder at the unknown, and utilize modern technology. So let's mix up a quart on non detergent SAE 30 to full fill the factory lubrication chart. Then blend in a quart of 10W-30 detergent oil because some high school pump jockey added one in the 60's after being completely distracted by a pretty young lady's mini skirt. Then because it smokes a bit a quart of 50w and a can of STP or Motor Honey, then a quart of new high mileage 10w40 with seal conditioners and friction reducers. And let's add a pint of Marvell Mystery Oil because it's good for upper cylinders. And maybe a can of Rislone cuz you thought you heard some valve noise. This still leaves room for somee Bardhall, Bars Leak seal conditioners and Whynns Friction Proofing. Then put the rest of the MMO in the gas with a can of Heat dry gas because we need to deal with the ethanol problem by adding some more ethanol. If there is any thing left on the bench just feel free to top up every hundred miles or so. And here is a completely radical thought for older engines that have good compression but smoke and use a quart of oil ever hundred miles or so.. We are all aware of sludge build up in the oil pans of old non detergent oiled engines. Guess what?? It's normal, it's how it's supposed work. Oil circulates some of it 15% or so goes through the filter,most doesn't. So the carbon and contaminants, and little pieces of metal from friction wear settle to the bottom of the pan and accumulate as sludge and goo. This is good as long as the level of the goo stays below the pickup strainer all is dandy. And as long as some comes out when you drain the oil at change so much better. It works as designed with the products available at the time. However it doesn't all come out and time and distance may allow the sludge to build up enough to affect the amount of liquid oil that can be put in the pan before it's considered over filled. What does an engine do when it is over filled?? It burns it, is sucks it by valve guides and expells it under pressure past seals and gaskets. Suppose then the only reason your oil pan gasket is leaking is that there is oil above it when clearly it should be below it. So now as it sits with no circulation it weeps oil past the gasket. Some folks my father stupid but he may have been stupid like a fox. When his cars got to around 50000 miles, he never put in more oil than it took to bring it to the add line on the dip stick, he never added oil till the level went to a pint or so under that mark, no smoke no leaks, hmmmm? My uncle who checked and added oil every half tank of gas had a Pontiac with similar miles had a car that leaked and wanted oil according to the dip stick every 100 miles or so. While Dad was adding a couple pints between changes Ok, step down from the soap box and put the jar of motor honey back on the bench...
  15. Do you have the proper sequence at to which order to tighten in? Do you know that a retorque is necessary after the engine has run through a heat cycle? Are you aware of the levels of torque to apply in cycles to full torque?
  16. Your overflow location assures your system can not build pressure as it is above and separate from the filler and cap.
  17. If I recall, there are pins that pop through a rubber grommet in the sill. The grommets are usually brittle and the metal around them corroded to a marginal state. Removal is probably a crap shoot, and getting back on in a stable position is probably a double crap shoot.
  18. Drain the coolant, disconnect the main hoses. Block the lower outlet with a rag, or other suitable item. Fill the rad with water until it comes out the top hose. Then unblock the lower outlet. The. Flow of water coming out of the radiator should form a column of water about five inches tall as it flows out until the radiator is down to about 1/3 full.
  19. https://tuning.americanmuscle.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003160743-How-do-I-verify-my-rear-end-gear-ratio-
  20. There is a very simple flow rate test illustrated in the service manual. Did you try it? Well it's in the 46 to 52 manual, if it is not in the earlier manuals, the procedure is likely the same. Du you have the service book for you car?
  21. greg g


    Try it and see if the situation corrects.you need a vent to the atmosphere for for the pressure to release. But check those holes.
  22. greg g


    There are n the bottom of the mc fluid reservoir two holes, one to allow brake fluid to fill the mc piston and one to release pressure when you release the brakes. The smaller of the two is the release. Get in there with a bit of machanics wire or paperclip straightened out and clean out the relief port. This happens pretty often with this type of brake system. Bleeding will relieve the pressure, but unless you clear that port it will keep happening. Then check that you have an inch to inch and a half Freeplay in the pedal linkage before the piston starts to engage. Don't over filling the reservoir, and assure the cap vents are clear.
  23. http://www.classicracks.com/index.htm
  24. Looks like one of those Farmers Insurance commercials. We are Farmers, bump babump bump bump bump bump! M
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