greg g

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Everything posted by greg g

  1. I have my extra engine ratchet strapped to a wheel Dollie from Harbor Freight with some wood scraps to keep it upright as the motormount and bell housing are off. Similar to these.
  2. No doubt an OD would be a nice addition, but one would need to fall out of the clouds with an installation team to have it happen.
  3. Just ran my numbers, 4.11, 28.3 inch tires, 3800 rpm would be 78 mph.
  4. Body shop painted them when the car was done in 2003. I can't comment on the truck vs car hubs, but the wheel folks should have that figment stuff on hand.
  5. I have painted wheel vintique smoothy model 20's with trim rings on my car. 15 inch, 5 1/2 wide, I think 4 inch backspace.
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  7. My P15 manual mentions this on page 147 under Engine Oiling System also referenced in a picture caption for figure 29. There is also a section on adjusting the spark plug wires if the oil pump position is accidentally changed. Manual number D13251 covering p15 - p20.
  8. Very nice just noticed its s Plodge. Plymouth body with Dodge grille. Is it a 25 inch motor? What part of Pa are you from?
  9. So the person mixing up the recipe ciphered out by the pignometer, would be a pignominist?
  10. Clean up a spot on the fire wall it shouldn't have faded. See if your auto paint jobber can pull a good match from there.
  11. I see you went with the see through drive shaft and the low vis u joints.
  12. Ward, vacuum wipers or electric? If vacuum you just tie into the vacuum line on the intake. The vacuum pump was also used to augment the vacuum wipers operation while climbing hills or accelerating, both times of low intake vacuum. The hose from the fuel pump can just t into the manifold vacuum line and could then power the wipers or the top by splitting it again to feed the top and wiper switch. Most modern cars use vacuum for climate control, selecting vent air paths etc. So many feature vacuum accumulates some where under the hood. The come in many shapes and sizes. You could source one new or used at a pic and pull for a few bucks. Manifold vacuum and pump vacuum could both be routed to the canister and then wipers and top plumbed from it. You would probably still need the car running to operate the top, but the reservoir might provide a decent boost to operation. Most would have a check valve on the suction side to keep the reserve between uses. Source source 1 the pump and source 2 the intake manifold would be joined by a t or y fitting, that single line would go to the check valve fitting of the reservoir. The other fitting of the rest would go to a t oy y fitting and then to top switch or wiper motor switch. Electric wipers would negate the split and a single line would then go to the top switch. Leaving out the reservoir would have the single line from the sourcrs combined hoses at the t directly to the top switch. Can you visualize that or do you need to see a schematic??? I got straws and salt shakers I can mock up and snap a pic or two.
  13. Can you keep her hat on??
  14. Let em click, better a bit loose and noisey than quiet and too tight.
  15. I used the ace hrdw brand XO Rust on my Studebaker both sprayed and rolled on. I did about 70 / 30 paint to mineral spirits. I added 2 ounces of TSC implement paint hardener and one ounce of flattener to each pot of paint. One a dark brown the other a tan. I used the flattener cuz I wasn't fussy with the body work. I got pretty much the look I wanted.
  16. Burnt exhaust gasket, leak from heat riser, cracked exhaust manifold. Is your fan loose?
  17. Call pertronix.
  18. Has the ground been changed to negative, has the coil been rewired to operate on negative ground? In a positive ground set up the wire from the ignition switch would go to the negative terminal on the coil, the positive terminal would then go through the points to ground. The opposite would be the case for negative ground. It will run that way but not at its best especially at higher revs. Since your vehicle has the through the fire wall coil,you would need to wire the ignition switch to the under hood terminal and the inside terminal to the engine. If I was doing this, I would abandon the stock coil, get a new internally resisted one from Napa or other similar source, mount it under the hood, assure it is wired properly to match the vehicles polarity, forget about the ballast resister, as the coil is already resisted. Then bring it up to number one tdc on compression and check the firing order dist to plugs wires again from wherever the rotor happens to point. And then see what happens. Is your pertronix unit a negative ground set up, and was it wired for the current ground set up? Didn't see the part about the new coil but proper wiring correct for the polarity is a must.
  19. Are you still 6v positive ground?
  20. Just remember that old saying about 90% of carb fuel problems are cured by fixing the ignition, and 90% of ignition problems are fixed by repairing the carburetor. Did you check for vacuum leaks after the carb was reinstalled? Other than the throttle shaft, and accelerator pump plunger, what is there on a carb that wears out?
  21. Several threads have been entered on the care and feeding of the P15 vacuum powered top actuators. Maybe some later ones got electric power but manifold vacuum served as power on many.
  22. Is your crank shaft pulley just a metal pulley or is it a bonded rubber and steel vibration damper? The dampers can sometimes begin to delaminate, which may cause the timing marks to be inaccurate. They can be repaired by damper doctor .com.
  23. Put it on finger tight. Spin the wheel tire assembly. With the wrench, tighten the nut until the wheel begins to slow down or resistance to free spinning is noticed. Loosen the nut sufficient ly that the cottert pin can be put in and seated. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle in and out on the vertical axis. If any looseness is felt, remove the cotter and tighten one notch.
  24. I put some in my leaky Studebaker box, freed up the steering, and no leaks.
  25. Good tip above. Andy's tip on therubber isolating pad between the steering box and frame is spot on. They typically get mushy with age and allow slack so the box moves away from the linkage before moving the links. If your car has the "Y" shaped center link check the bushings where it mounts to the cross member. And if you don't have a lot of experience driving on bias ply tires instead of radials, wander was their middle name. Proper toe in settings can improve down the road feeling also. King pins and other suspension parts usually give long service 100k + miles if properly greased. So invest in a good geasegun and find the 22 or so zerk fittings, make sure they are all lubed properly. That can have a positive effect on over all driving feel. So check the easily replaceable stuff before contemplating a full tear down. You might find a couple of easy fixes will address the subject without getting in over your head or wallet.