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greg g

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greg g last won the day on December 24 2017

greg g had the most liked content!

About greg g

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    manlius, ny
  • My Project Cars
    46 ply business CPE

Converted

  • Location
    Just outside Syracuse, NY/ 46 Plym Business Coupe/ Home of the electric traffic signal
  • Interests
    hittin stuff with hammers

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    re-tyred (currently radials)

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  1. greg g

    1948 Plymouth Transmission Swap

    As mentioned,l just (400) miles ago,completed an od install. My thread was titled large hole in the floor. Not really high on detail or pictures, but will give you some insight into the procedure. Feel free to shoot questions when you get busy with it.
  2. greg g

    Vacuum advance enlightenment

    If you moved the timing to deal with the leak it will need to be reset with the vacuum leaks sealed. Ironically, you can set it by attaching a vacuum gauge to the wiper source. There are a couple threads regarding lubricating the wiper motor with light machine oil or maybe it was brake fluid. Search vacuum motor lubrication.
  3. greg g

    p 15 with dakota swap

    Where is the car?
  4. greg g

    Vacuum advance enlightenment

    Yes, plug both vacuum lines and see if your car returns to running the way you felt was normal. If good performance returns, see if the wipers work. The vacuum feed for the wipers is from the intake manifold. This vacuum is at its highest at idle and constant cruise speed. A leak in this line will cause a lean fuel air mixture which will cause poor running conditions. The line from the carburetor to the distributor provides for timing advance needed for acceleration, going up hills, etc. As you open the throttle vacuum through the carburetor increases. This vacuum signal is opposite of manifold vacuum, being lowest at idle and increasing as the throttle plate is open. You distributor has two advance mechanisms centrifugal weights that react to rpm, and the vacuum signal which anticipates the weight movement and provides for slightly earlier advance than the weights can provide. Your car can run just fine without the vacuum advance, but will be smoother and a bit more economically with the vacuum working correctly. If the vacuum diaphragm is torn, this will cause air to enter the fuel leaning the mixture also. Perhaps that was the reason yours was disabled. So plug them both and see if it runs like it used to. Then unplug the carb he and see what happens. If nothing changes, plug it back up and see what happens when you unplug the wiper feed. Most cars with the wiper feed open will probably stall as the air being sucked in will make too lean of a mixture to run.
  5. greg g

    Warm start issue

    Turn if fully clockwise and wire it there. See if your condition improves.
  6. greg g

    Temp needle adjustment

    Tweaked it today. Didn't realize the whole flattened tube moved, interesting that the ether can exert enough pressure to coil/uncoil the flattened section of tubing. Did the sauce pan test again the pointer is vertical just over 160 degrees, my engine runs pretty much all the time at 170. So normal will present a vertical needle so a quick glance will assure its in the groove. Pretty much within five or six degrees from 150 to 190. Now to get the gumption to do the upside down under the dash thing to get it swapped.
  7. greg g

    1939 desoto s6

    Drilling drums for better brake performance http://www.chtopping.com/CustomRod4/
  8. greg g

    my first project car at 16

    The Carter B1B carburetor was used on these cars from 1933 to 1952. They must have been a pretty good assembly to have been specified for 20 years and still doing their jobs reliably years later. They are also one of the easiest to disassemble and rebuild. Good learning experience. There is even a step by step illustrated process documented on the web. Just make sure you closely mind all the small clips on the linkages.
  9. greg g

    Warm start issue

    Is the base of your carburetor wet with fuel?
  10. greg g

    1939 desoto s6

    Are your current brakes up to spec? Are they installed and adjusted and working properly, are the shoes wearing evenly and contacting squarly? I had mine done professionally by a competent shop and haven't touched them in 35000 miles, and they work very well, long downhill runs with lots of urves nduce some fade but being aware of the situation and driving accordingly manages this. There is an article on the web about drilling drums like they did for Carrarra Pan Americana road race in the day. There are several ways to put disc brakes on, there is an adaption using ford explorer parts, there are three or four commercial kits. Some require machine work, some, are bolt ons, some require you to use non stock wheels. Search disc brakes and you should find enough material to make a decision. You can also add a dual reservoir master cylinder to your present system. What were you thinking of?
  11. greg g

    Who Is Actually Driving Their Vintage Mopars?

    Put about 600 miles in the last three weeks, getting ready for our trip to the Detroit area. Been hot to put driving without AC a chore. Gotta get some tires mounted up before hand.
  12. greg g

    Oh, what to do? AND Are these wheels stock?

    Be very careful with the head lamps as they are hard to come by and can be rebuilt. I might remove them store them for attention at a later date, and throw some new 6v sealed beam lamps in for the interim. The more I look at that thing, l like the way it sits in all its sunbaked glory at least for now. Get it running, driving and stopping safely, spiff up the interior and drive it. Don't know if l would leave it that way for an extended period but as is, it will certainly be a conversation starter.
  13. greg g

    Google Animation of Car Pics

    Maybe we should think of getting coffee or lunch in Whitney point or there about dsome day.
  14. greg g

    Temp needle adjustment

    What Tim said. The replacement gauge, tube and sensor were in hand, so the sauce pan method was used with a cooking thermometer. I was looking at my manual last night. It has language regarding adjustment but no illustration. My manual covers p 15 to p 23. It did however mention that exposing the sensor to temps above 250 will cause sensor failure, evidenced by a non working gauge who's pointer will not return to low temp rest position.which is what my present gauge presents. So l guess my original engine got well and truly overheated. Probably why it had a rebuilders tag riveted on.
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