greg g

In 2018 we took a trip to either a POC or WPC event somewhere near Detroit. We stopped for gas near Port Huron. As I pumped gas, a small puddle was forming on the drivers side of the car. Turned out the all metal Napa gas filter was spraying a fine mist of gas from the crimped seam holding the halves together. Swapped it out and continued with no further issues. Wondered why our normal 18 mpg has dropped to just under 15. Moral of story, don't take these things for granted. Takes quick look every other time you fill up. Glass, plastic, and metal all have failure points.

Being it is a fastback, it is a pretty rare body style. Not many made, fewer left around. You are probably going to need to find a glass shop with a guy who can cut a section out of a modern piece and who can shape it to fit. Do you have a custom car shop in your area that does chopped top cars? If so they can probably steer you toward an expert who can do this type of specialized work. Saw an episode of overhaulin or similar where a guy made a rear glass for a chopped top 50's car from a SAAB 96 windshield section. That body stylewas 49 to 51/2 only. Dodge had one also, but their rear glass was different.

There is 8 to 10 inches between the filter and the exhaust.

I have a metal in line spliced in the fuel line on the frame just ahead of the rear fender. Coming out of my fuel pump, I have a rubber line to the pass side inner fender, there is a plastic in line there before it feeds the spliter for the dual carbs. I replace the one on the frame every other year or so, the plastic one when it shows sediment.

New ones are offshore junque. Real light materials, shoddy assembly. How do I know? The one I installed in my Studebaker truck came apart during the trucks state inspection when the tech cycled it like a bull in a china shop. It did go back together. I flicked the headlights during its next inspection. Probably better off to run a double throw, double contact toggle switch On the dash out to the terminal block.

Any numbers on the axle? Mid 60s T birds had finned rear drums if I remember correctly.

If you have the driveshaft with the ball and trunion u joint on both ends, remove it, swap ends. See if your noise goes away or changes. Before you remove it mark the flanges so you can replace it to its original position if you need to. These setups will over the years make one joint dominant, especially if your use and loading of the car never changes, meaning one will do most of the movement and work, the other will remain it a static position. Swapping ends will cause them to get out of their ruts and move through different patterns in different places along the trunion. This might moderate the noise, change its frequency, or better isolate it's source. Or help to point you elsewhere for the source of your squeek.

Trying to decipher the role of the governor in relation to the shifting sequence. It obviously reacts to transmission output revolutions. But do the points open or close rhe path to ground. Under normal shifting once a preset output rpm is achieved rhe circuit would be set to allow the upshift with the release of the gas pedal. This release allows rhe solenoid to activate to accomplish the up shift. Under normal driving, the same trans rpm signal qould allow the downshift upon slowing or stopping. Under wide open throttle kickdown conditions, the kickdown, cancels th4 Governors hold in of 5he upper gear, momentarily shorts the coil to allow driveline slack to facilitate the solenoid to drop out the higher and pull in the lower gear. So does the spin of the governor open or close the points to enable the solenoid?

Look for a brake shop iny our area that does commercial and construction vehicles. They can rivet or bond new friction material. So that takes parts numbers out of the equation, the only thing you will need is the thickness of the original linings. Just mark the old shoes with thier original location.

Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Nothing that sinister, his summer job was delivering beer, cleaning and changing draft systems. These were spoils as tap designs or brands came into the mix. I had about 20 different one screwed to a length of 2x4. Can't remember what became of them.

Is the Taillight King web site still up? There was lots of stuff there. I stumbled across a pair at a swap meet several years ago. Ebay shows some.

When my cousin got a newer car he gave me his 51 Plymouth for a lot car, it was equipped with one of these on the shift lever.

I remember putting a 74 or so Coupe de Ville on a u haul trailer, they have a 130 inch wheelbase. It was close, but it fit. Is the DeSoto longer?

This help?

Not far behind in annoyance factor is the male peacocks mating call. Several different calls can top 110 decibels and supposedly can carry nearly three miles under optimal air and wind conditions.

Why are Mercury switches spotty? Unless the container is breached, they shouldn't be problematic. My father used to make his own for under hood and trunk lights. His favorite container was those new fangled plastic medicine bottles.

https://youtu.be/shqg4a-Ols8

Rich will you download your posted charts to the resources area of this web site? This would be very helpful. I don't think people are aware of how many permutations of distributors they might run across when looking for tune up parts. Year make and model queries can easily lead folks astray when dealing with issues surrounding distributors found in these flatheads, especially when you throw in engine swaps from different years, makes Models, and types.

Watch the backspace on these later wheels. Backspace is the measurement from the center of a straight edge placed across the back side of the rim, down to the center flange ( the area the lug holes are). I believe 4 inches is the limit. Deeper backspace will have interference between tire side wall front at tie rods and rear on leaf springs.

Speaking of momentum, I watched a you tube 0 to 60 run done in a 1950 Nash Aireflite. It was powered by a flathead six. The narrator said it was a three speed, with a 4:52 rear-end with borg warner OD. First run took 27 seconds, 2nd run took 30. Both runs needed to shift into OD to achieve 60. Looks like 52 or so had rung her out when it couldn't gain any more rpm in 3rd. He also mentioned it was tired with lots of blow by and oil use. He said he thought factory HP was 85.

I believe the shift rite was marketed to achieve the down shift withhout the adrenalin rush of full throttle operation.

Most discussions of semi automatic faults, other than leaks,on this forum have been solved by attention to external circuits and assemblies. The gear boxes themselves are pretty much bullet proof. Glad you got it sorted. You are now free to accumulate momentum. Leave it in high range and just drive.

Ford Not likely (different gear selecting linkage) but any Plymouth three speed from 46 through 56 should be a bolt in. Dodge from the same period should work also but you would probably need to use a Plymouth input shaft as dodge was longer due to being paired to fluid drive assembly. I have a 46 ply outh trans in my garage but your a bit to far away.