greg g

My oil filter return line split inside the fitting. New piece of tubing fixed it. Also check the flex line feeding the oil pressure gauge. There is one more source but it's behind the bellhousing. The Welch plug where the rear cam bearing sits, but it pretty rare for that to leak. If most of your oil is drivers side, I would suspect filter or gauge plumbing, or where the distributor sits in the block. A trip to the car wash to clean things up may help you locate the source. Good to hear from you. Been a while.

Go to carnut.com car specs section. Look up Dodge in the 40's. Study the compression ratio, and horsepower numbers. As fuel got better, compression ratios went up and horsepower followed. Without changing much else, milling the head is still the best bang for your buck. This assumes that the engine is in good condition with good rings and pistons. How much to mill, well that depends. If you know the current head is unmolested, some have said .080 is doable. I have a 56 230, when I did my rebuild, the head was milled .040, and the block was decked .010. The machinist calculated my compression ratio at just below 9.0 to 1. Runs great on 87 octane. Has good throttle response, and fuel mileage went up 30 miles on a full tank. If you don't know the history of you engine and any previous work, you need to be conservative on how much you can do. A compression test, and a check with a vacuum gauge is a good way to assess the engine's internal condition. If you need eye candy, dual carbs, headers, aluminum heads are out there if you have deep pockets.

I remember folks putting hoter plugs in older engines that were prone to oil fouling from worn rings or cylinders. The belief being that a hotter plug tip would help cook off carbon lessening misfire. As far as cold plugs, people who were chasing, pinging, spark knock or pre ignition used them in the belief that a cooler tip would not act like a diesel glow plug lighting the air fuel mix before it was fully compressed. Spark plug heat range is not a reference to the quality, length or intensity of the spark. https://www.ngkntk.in/importance-of-heat-range/

She's an angel of the first degree.

Wheel vintique smoothies, 15 x 5.5 3.5 back space. These are drilledfor mopar ford amc bolt as well as small GM. Pin fits through one of the gm holes. Stock lug bolts no problems. 45K miles zero issues.

Is the step up valve functioning properly? Should be closed at high vacuum situations like idle. If open it will cause fuel fouling.

P 15 Picnic update. With less than a month to go, we have had a couple of cancelations. Last time we looked there were still two rooms left under our room block. Not too late to contact the hotel and join the group. Host hotel is the Casablanca in Grimsby Ontario. Contact them directly. Mention P15 Picnic rt oom block.

Haven't seen this mentioned, but what is your idle rpm? Should be 450 500. Have you tried lengthening the rod going from the clutch pedal to the throw out fork? If the disc isn't fully disengaging it will spin the input shaft.

Didnt nissan aka Datsun make Fiats ofseveral models under liscence as Japans industries got back on their feet after WW II? A friend in High school had one of these. Top speed was maybe 50. Gas tank held 4 gallons, fill up was a buck. Kinda fun around town. He hung out with several guys that had wierd cars. Hillman minx, Simca aronde, a DKW, a Saab 93, a Opel Rekord, a Borgward, and a fairly new mini Cooper one guys brother got on deployment some where in Europe. There was also an MGA twin cam and an Austin Healy 100 4 LeMans. Needless to say these guys didn't get to park with the cool kids in the student lot. https://www.audrainautomuseum.org/small-wonders-mini-micro-pedal-and-toy-cars/1959-autobianchi-bianchina-trasformabile

I have used Bon Ami cleanser on several faded and rust stained finishes. Bon Ami is a non silica based cleaner that won't scratch paint, glass, stainless or chrome. Bartenders friend is similar if you can't find bon ami. Look on the bottom shelf in the cleanser section of the grocery store. I use it with water and terrycloth. Wet a 1ft square area, sprinkle on , rub and rinse. It takes a lot of rinsing but you will be surprised at the result. Takes road grime off windshields. Rust stains from dripping rain gutters, haze from stainless trim. Make sure you get the original product. https://www.amazon.com/Bon-Ami-Natural-Cleanser-Kitchen/dp/B07VC36NMC/ref=asc_df_B07VC36NMC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=564776368211&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5643714554457280058&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005095&hvtargid=pla-1455542392046&psc=1

Check two things float level and needle and seat. If the needle valve isn't closing it will allow the float chamber to over fill. I'd the float isn't seating correctly it won't push the needle in to the seat proper. Current wisdom is to set the float a 32nd or 2 lower than factory spec. Today's gas blends expand more at lower Temps leaving some room in the chamber also prevents over flow when under hood Temps are high. To lower thr float you want to bend the tab that contacts the needle up so the float doesn't need to come up so high to close the valve. Third item to check is the little retainer clip that fits into the groove the float pin goes into. If it not there or if misaligned the float won't work to close the inlet. In the downloads area of this site is a pictorial of rebuilding the carb. This can help you identify the parts reffered too above.

Now there's one thing in the whole wide world I sure would like to see That's when that little love of mine Dips her doughnut in my tea. Up on Cripple Creek She sends me If I spring a leak She mends me I dont hafta speak She defends me A drunkard's dream if I ever did see one. ( insert jaw harp riff followed by a bit of yodeling)

There was a recall on those. I remember there being steady work for 2 techs at the dealership I worked at. Some engineer decided that it was a good idea to put aluminum tubes and fittings and attaching them to steal subframw components. He must have missed the lessons on galvanic corrosion in damp environments. Throw in a couple winters driving on salted roads, and you have hundreds of thousands of Van's being recalled. The techs loved them. Chrysler paid 2,75 hours for the repair. The guys got it down to about 40 minutes. Hey could do 6 or 8 a day if the parts guys kept a proper stock pile of the repair assemblies.

From what I have read the Nascar Plymouths didn't have the speed to keep up with the Hudsons and Oldsmobile. Where they made their mark was with fewer pits stops for tires and fuel. I also read that where they could they ran 6 to 8 ply truck tires which also extended time between stops .

Well in order for the trans to work right your idle speed needs to be in the stezdy 450 to 500 rpm neighborhood. You probably need to get hold of a vacuum gauge and check for leaks from the carb to the block.

When you say won't idle, wha does that mean? Is it misfiring, over reving, needs choke to idle smoothly, you need to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running? If it's a miss fire, do the old pull a spark plug wire one at a time till you isolate the dead plug , did you check to see if the choke is fully open? What is the status of your heat riser flap? Is the carb percolating and I've flowing fuel? Checked the float and or needle and seat? Is the coil over heating? Is the carb linkage fast idle cam dropping out as supposed to?

Well, as part of quality control the engine assembly folks would pull random engines, mount them in a water brake dyno and run them under load at 3600 rpm for 24 hours. 3600 is where peak hp was rated by the factory, red line who knows? My car has 4.11 gears. With 28.75 diameter tires, 65 indicated on the speedometer is 62 on GPS. This calculated to 3280 apx. Rpm. When I had my engine done, I asked the machinist about sustainable cruising rpms. He suggested between 75% to 85% of factory hp rpm, depending on general engine condition. So for mine with a recent rebuild, good oil pressure 40 to 45 psi, goodcompression, and 170 degree coolant Temps, I am in that range with a couple hundred rpm in reserve. There are several online calculators where you can plug in your known gear ratio (3rd gear is 1 to 1) and tire diameter and solve for speed or rpm or both.

Are you agreeing or disagreeing with my concern regarding the intigral cast drum and hub. I also wonder about the cast iron to steel interface on the axle.

Here is a caution re brake drums. The original braking system design has a cast iron drum riveted to a steel hub. The hub carries the load transferred from the wheels to the axles. The drum is carried along for the ride until the brakes are applied, then the braking forces are transferred to the steel hub through the rivets. Some of the replacement drums do away with the hub, meaning the cast iron must carry the lug bolts, the weight and the braking forces in just the cast iron. I wonder if any engineering studies have been done on these parts? Do you have the original pieces, what's wrong with them?

The other thing to check is the heat riser flap on the exhaust manifold. If it is there and you can move it, twist it fully clockwise and secure it. This is the summer position. 3rd, invest a few bucks in a phenolic spacer to go between the carb and manifold. 1 inch thick will do you. You may need longer studs and another carb base gasket. Make sure the gasket for the carb base has the slot to feed vacuum to the small hole in the carb bottom. Langdons Stovebolt web site had the spacers, but I thought I read somewhere the business closed.

Check the base of the carb, is it wet? If so rather than vapor lock, you might be suffering from percolation. This is a rich state caused by improper float level, high under hood Temps expand the fuel in bowl. It overflows raw fuel into the manifold where it puddles, causing a flooded condition. Check your float level and needle and seat. Today's gas expands at a lower temp than old real gas, set your float a Couple 32's less than factory. Next time you encounter this situation, slowly press and hold wide open throttle before you crank the starter. This should clear any flooding if it's a percolation problem.

Send me a private message through this site, will exchange info,price, logistics, etc off the forum. Hope to make your acquaintance in a few weeks.

For more info send Mark Duggan an email at mark@rdusaclassics.com he will send you the details and put you on the event email list.

Looks like we are typing simultaneously. Where are you inCanada? I have a ran when pulled 46 218 looking for a new home. Located in Central NY. Compression In The low 90s 35 psi oil pressure, a bit of smoke at startup and moderate blow by, will need pistons and rings going forward but I was driving it regularly up to pulling it. From your location you are about three hours west. Edited 3 hours ago by greg g FarmerJon 1 Quote A discussion is an exchange of knowledge an argument is an exchange of ignorance.

Also a group of 40s Plymouth Owners will be gathering in Grimsby, Ont. in Ontario. Sept 15 thru 17. Will be at the Casablanca Hotel. Still two rooms available if you want to stop by. https://m.facebook.com/p/P15-Picnic-USA-100065060943179/?paipv=0&eav=Afa5hRQ51NAhNWcvLw9C5cKhnbblBORdpBR9B85v8EIIT37BCOhcskwWAKDdDPtwUEc&wtsid=rdr_0A1cRoM7AEz1H7eus&_rdr#!/photo.php?fbid=602586748586685&id=100065060943179&set=a.231428772369153&eav=AfaPMGe1NXQ-vke90Y_Vd5Rd-neCLuqxE04wShLDLh67MEk5XDVrxQFzCNToXa-sHOM&paipv=0&source=48&refid=17&_ft_=encrypted_tracking_data.0AY8JzwrAmXNKgAC8PJ7YG_Sann_G5vI5-VFfaZC2LxJ5_rBDUSgKq0r7mjXlNqNzQcKv--WoqqSFHsB37PavV8kCtQTBfWCV04LivkO9xe6pFUThIAGnyv5dxiP1c2uhDaQ9NSTMLj0OmChOPfKjSgk6R03iT6HmaUD3-BmaRozf7zK4x65XcO_CeqBhgGXLSdCUZDydl97tPUO4EjY3MdbcK70Opko8qHYZsjDMEXqaxKz_8J7INqPEtz2yowL-OvtHUo4AvN__TSvQZqWSqlrMxKQwybytKT_puQKYCafY-Z5VrUBjDxBQ85PHmX_02bauNnmPJ0AxxmEzhiH21DAFbRbaLqnYuWkQTS6l0l70wqPA6-U9Ly4vDQCfLHjb1fwnIyAVB7nPk2wT60zBgUb2amcMdGtJQNmCs__qpDJRGNp4ybrV2Yb7jFrDE1fgl1JjZlzDSrTyFpP4PQe_nvgLjxFzubAVGXfmiIsNY3dN6rhmgBu9eCuRhEIW9G9Xu2qtFry_MVE6NMePHgO5e5Bkos1zqgK2coz3DYvygkAqNiZuJYwk1B8NtiAeO45FRbykFhDx8rPT2Wn4phqGSC3D67RmxHyrv1QwXou41vbUNNb1SaK19q6To6JJ4CauWF4GPjUgDQbDZ_InKnu9SJzo5ysr8YWZXswqI7YxLOqFBrRNJq89CSfD6rvlTxy7v6Z3gSAXOejXGshuujEDsZQTpNwlwouCKY55GRVjagNGntZkeG1hjcAQZMNZ9VR1Qx0e9pjtujx5obkC1-hrQ7hyg5qj1OJ_VM-nDL8fHubXfZAxA-WHmQT-mHha067pCoeXaY2T9BrKd5r5dIPMw3lga3raiH-gtcqr65vCPetJE3u6eNt8GodnY_LEEvkJXr9xHlBDj9z_dW94zkZtx6o4UTRnxCkLd7aeqSn0bGNpIxVDHkt0lZoxCA-50b7oVxH8uz3aMnfYu6vy7WRcR4qaCZDsgLqXhFaOw7GYuFTIxGVHbGXi5UIo_WXChnyEU49m0sl1Wy7gHibX4bLkQRHoEM1PhPZv6m2nYFSyDlyPIozsIhfaNH137xWbcWGSAlAKx4_O3zklEBD6q64MLCydMOXm-eAXWHl3NQ130kqpaDO5MhxrRKCi4lM_7t_Jwk9Dhaczd7snWmJeov9ku4TQ3hkIzmby1DwAbrTiClzy1Z0gAEM4kKySxY9aWdC-0lgb6VsXmcW96FPm-wq0iFQ0xJH52OS1P8RN8dzzRt37miyMNvqffrSC1zRlj-t035QOj__EjYvuM_XvzNkBQUrNhKFtYDXX0e1Z6qCn-VPpGZSyFhkYhZIVQMCtjEb1Jr_Co7eJ1b12rcOGTerix5RuvYOBbTPOv5AVJwIIQ7Jyaapu-iZY-dGNwyBpOi_DMyt_UKvtWlF1DCIiFiNHdCkTh0Oy0y_fC7SH68K3&__tn__=EH-R