greg g

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greg g last won the day on December 28 2016

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About greg g

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Location
    manlius, ny

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  • Location
    Just outside Syracuse, NY/ 46 Plym Business Coupe/ Home of the electric traffic signal
  • Interests
    hittin stuff with hammers

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  • Occupation
    re-tyred (currently radials)

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  1. Switch is dumb making one power in makes the other power out when the brake pedal is pushed. You can abondon the stock power wire in place but tape it off so you don't get any unwanted sparking as it will still be hot when disconnected.
  2. Before you mount them with tubes, check the inside of the tires to make sure there are no mylar bar code stickers left in the tire. They are typically on the side wall area. If left over time chaff the tubes eventually leading to holes and flat tires. This has happened to a couple members of this forum and several other folks I have spoken with. Cocker does not mention this in their mounting instructions and takes no responsibility for any failures leaving them in may cause. I also remember from having tubed tires mounted the installer using baby powder or cornstarch as a buffer to prevent stiction between tireand tube. Probably more of a concern with radials as they by design have more side wall flex and sidewall movement than bias ply tires. Good luck with your decision.
  3. Locate the starter solenoid. It will have two heavy gauge cables attached. One from the battery and one going down to the starter. On the battery side you will notice a couple of smaller wires. These provide power circuits for items that can be powered even with the ignition switch in the off position. Like lights. Basically you are going to run an independent power wire for the brake light switch. Locate the brake light switch. It is one a fitting on the brake fluid lines down near the master cylinder. It will have two wires coming out the top of the switch. If you are not familiar with what the switch looks like google hydraulic brake light switch. They are still used today on atv's, motor cycles, and scooters. Once you locate it, make up a wire of sufficient length with an inline fuse holder (15 amp fuse works) to run from the solenoid to the switch, and attach a terminal ring on one end to fit on the solenoid terminal, and an end suitable to attach the wire to the switch terminal. You can use crimp on or solder on fitting as befits your skill set. The switch doesn't care about which terminal is which. One is power in the other will be power out regardless. You can test you brake light by temporarily bypassing the switch and connecting the new wire to the wire that runs toward the back of the car. Then connect the new power wire to the solenoid terminal. You should have power to the trunk and thus to the brake light assembly. Do you have a electric meter or test light to assure you actually have power to critical parts of the circuit? If you bypass the switch and have power to the brake light, you should have a light assuming your bulb is good and there is a proper ground. If not then you have a problem in the wire from the switch to the trunk. There is a spot up near where the top of the back seat interfaces with the trunk inside the trunk where the wires feed down from under the headliner to enter the trunk. There are butt connectors there where the wires split off to go to their light fixtures, assure that all these connections are tight. While you are there trace the wires and liable them for future reference. Once you have the brake light wire identified check it for power at the light fixture end. If you have power good bulb and ground you should have a light. Now connect the switch and recheck, with someone holding the brake pedal down. If you have no power then, that points to a bad switch that you will need to replace. Old cars are fun!!!!
  4. https://www.nationalchryslerproductsclub.org/meets/2017.php
  5. Running 225 75 on after market rims. Fit is close and I used to get some tire rub with a full trunk and gas tank when packed for road trip, on sharp turns. Put new spring shackle bushings on, most rub dissapeared. I tried 235's had to pry spring down to get wheel tire to clear going on. Running 205 75 fronts. The 4 1/2 inch rims are " not recommended" 235's 5 inch probably the minium for 235's. Just an advisory.
  6. We are job security for the big pharma companies. Feeling OK, been bouncing around between doctors for followups. Only lasting effects are visual. Floaters and after images at the edge of vision, and some dizziness from the new blood pressure med which has been doubled since first prescribed. Since dizziness was the major symptom of the situation, it is worry some when it starts. But bp is 130/83 down from 142/90 couple weeks ago. No thinners yet, but things do change. One plus, lost 13 pounds.
  7. Blk ground Grn to coil. Might be ground sensitive and not work on pos grand White to ign on hot for power and light. I think blue chip was made by sun for places like western auto sears etc. Colors are almost spot on with an old sun dash mount I have.
  8. Very nice! More pics please....
  9. VW and Audi and several others still use them. What's unusual is the left hand threads on one side and eighty tightly on the other...
  10. Three words! Boiled Linseed Oil. Preserve, protect, has a semi gloss sheen. Popular with antique farm implement and tool folks, and Antiquers too. Check you tube there are a couple bids. One even is a dodge truck.
  11. You do know that the car only has one brake light, the center one near the trunk handle. Out board lights are tail lights only unless you have turn signals. You can power the brake light separately through an in line fuse if you want to by making up a fused wire to run from the batteryside solenoid terminal to the brake lamp switch. This will take the brake light out of the headlight switched circuit. It will likely make the brake light brighter also.
  12. Except that they didn't have carpets, hope you find something.
  13. There are some references to late 57-59 end of production for cars, were the "best head for combustion efficiency". These may be the ones from the engine with numbers beginning with "M". The truck engines that continued to the early 70's probably didn't get these. 138 HP in the 57 dodge 135 for Plymouth, both at 8 to 1 car.
  14. Good question, anybody know??? Gotta be a chart somewhere. Maybe the AOK folks might have a clue.
  15. My most informed opinion is that the factory location is one of the bolts or studs that holds the generator bracket to the block. Most likely reason that alternate locations are used is that it is a pain in the a$$ to fasten it there with the generator, fender, and battery shelf in place! Good luck.