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greg g

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greg g last won the day on June 1

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About greg g

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    manlius, ny
  • My Project Cars
    46 ply business CPE

Converted

  • Location
    Just outside Syracuse, NY/ 46 Plym Business Coupe/ Home of the electric traffic signal
  • Interests
    hittin stuff with hammers

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  • Occupation
    re-tyred (currently radials)

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  1. I put radials on my p15 in 2004. 205 75r15. In 2007 in advance of a long road trip ,I pulled the rears and swapped the 205's for a pair of 225 75r15. I replaced the fronts this year as the were nearly down to the wear bars. Without going through the paperwork the were installed at 72 or 75k miles. The change over was done with 111000 0n the odo. Never touched the front end except for new shocks, and tightening the adjustment on the steering box. Now my steering is still pretty loose but the car tracks well and holds an arc on exit ramps and through curves. Tires were worn evenly on both sides. Kept the inflation at 34 psi cold.front, 32 rear. Rears still look brand new and are just above half tread after 30k miles. Yes I put the 14 year old 205's that were on the rear on the front to replace the worn ones, and will run the 12 year old rears till the fail or wear out. And in the spirit of frugal full disclosure the 205's were Uniroyals from Wally World and the 225's are Cornell's from Pep Boys. I believe the fronts were 40.00 each, and the rears around 50.00. So in neither case we're these premium tires. Nothing scientific here just personal experience.
  2. Chrysler Corporation introduced the DeSoto brand of trucks in 1937 to provide a greater number of sales outlets overseas for the American-built Dodge and Fargo commercial vehicles. The DeSoto brand was badge engineered sporadically on Dodge trucks made in Argentina (for the D-100 and the D-400[5] since 1960 to 1965), Australia, Spain, Turkey, and the United Kingdom. Chrysler ended its truck operations in international markets in 1970. However, both the DeSoto and Fargo brands continued to be used on trucks made by Askam in Turkey. In 1978, Chrysler sold its share in the Askam venture to its Turkish partners.[6]
  3. I believe that several South and Central American countrys either built or were sent Dodge and Plymouth bodied vehicles badged as DeSotos. Also recall that vehicles labled as "DeSotos" were also assembled in Turkey for left hand drive European market. Or could be the previous owner saved an emblem off his DeSoto and attached it to his new ride.
  4. I believe the headiners were originally a light gray. Smoke, air contaminants, and critters all contribute to the mottled brown they seem to all turn too. This fabric can be very fragile and resistant to attempts to clean it. When I worked at a car dealership, we had some luck on older cloth upholstery stains with dry foam cleaners, soft bristle brushes and shop vacs. Spray on the foam, agetate with the brush, then go over the area with the vac to remove the remaining soil and any foam left. Work small sections about 6 to 8 inches square, overlapping the last section by an inch or so do not soak the fabric. As noted start some where inconspicuous to test the cleaner, the fabric and the technique. Go to one of your local car dealers and ask them where they get their clean up supplies, you may be able to find spray cleaners with brushes built into the can or attached. Some times older headliners will brighten up considerable by going over them with the shop vac only.
  5. Wait till after dark, open the hood, start the car and look for Sparks where there shouldn't be any like between spark plugs and wires, from the wire down the side of the spark plug, from the coil wire to the mounting bracket. Electricity like water will take the route of least resistance. Tis might show you where some of you problems are.
  6. Did your rebuilders not tell you about the necessity of doing a full head retorque after it has run through a full operating temp cycle? If he did not he should have. He should have also given you a bolt sequence to follow while doing this process. Those bolts used for lifting would typically be among the last to be retightened. So zqpping them down after the lift and then doing the retorque after running it up to temp would address any concerns about being properly torqued.
  7. Will be cruising the hotel parking lots in the evening rather than soaking heat out of the tarmac all day.
  8. Do you have the front sheet metal off?? Installing the engine with the trans attached required some very steep angles which are mitigated if the dog house is removed. If you still have fenders etc on the car I would do the engine and then put the trans in once the engine is located and secured to it's mounts.
  9. Well back in the day, lots folks would only repair the one piston involved, botton it back up and keep on Motoring.
  10. They should be visible where the rods or cables attach on the column.
  11. The vacuum signal from the carb to the dist is negligable at idle. So no need to disconnect.
  12. Try setting your timing using the vacuum gauge. First set the idle to 400 to 500 rpm. Then with the dist nut loosend enough to turn the dist. rotate it to the highest steady vacuum reading. Readjust the idle speed and idle air screw to get the smoothest 500 rpm idle. Snug the dist and go for a ride. Listen for any spark knock or ping under brisk acceleration or under load like accelerating up a hill in third. If you encounter ping, retard the timing till it disappears. Tighten the distributor. Readjust idle speed and idle mix to attain a smooth 500 rpm idle. Then you should be set to your type of gas, height above see level, and the way you drive.
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