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flatheadjim

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About flatheadjim

  • Birthday 05/10/1955

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  • Location
    Marysville Wa. 98270
  • Interests
    Flatheads, Fly Fishing,

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  • Occupation
    Aircraft Mechanic
  1. flatheadjim

    050

    .20 Overbore 218ci. Plymouth date on Block is 1955. Edgy Finned Head, Offenhouser 2 carb intake with water heating, and Marvel Carbs. The Marvel Carbs are great as a Two Carb setup, they have a 1.25" Throat which is .25" smaller than the Carter B&B Carbs and therfore have a better velocity and the Marvels have an adjustable Power Needle for percise adjustments. Looking to upgrade the ingniton soon to an HEI. May also have my Cam ground by Edgerton sometime soon. Have a nice Overdrive Trans which makes all the difference in Hwy. driving. Runs Strong and Smooth, Flatheads Forever.
  2. flatheadjim

    048

    .20 Overbore 218ci. Plymouth date on Block is 1955. Edgy Finned Head, Offenhouser 2 carb intake with water heating, and Marvel Carbs. The Marvel Carbs are great as a Two Carb setup, they have a 1.25" Throat which is .25" smaller than the Carter B&B Carbs and therfore have a better velocity and the Marvels have an adjustable Power Needle for percise adjustments. Looking to upgrade the ingniton soon to an HEI. May also have my Cam ground by Edgerton sometime soon. Have a nice Overdrive Trans which makes all the difference in Hwy. driving. Runs Strong and Smooth, Flatheads Forever.
  3. flatheadjim

    018

    Love my Coupe, a Disc Brake and Master cylinder upgrade is next.
  4. flatheadjim

    018

    !948 P-15 Club Coupe Lowered, Custom Interior, Finned Aluminum Head and Dual Marvel Carbs on Offenhouser Intake, Split exhaust with Blue Streak Muffs and two out the back.
  5. That's a great picture of the Chrysler engine, Thanks, the way they used the small metal box type tube is kinda what I was thinking to use myself. When I get it all put together I will post some pictures with a report on how well it works out. Flatheadjim
  6. Does the length of the Plug Wire have any effect on the quality of Spark? I'm thinking of running the Wires lengthwise with the head then down and around back to the Distributor which would just about double their length. Will this lessen the Spark or maybe induce Voltage across and into another wire? I was also thinking of running the wires in a metal tube of some sort to clean things up a bit. I plan on using Modern silicone wraped wires. Anybody remember there Electricty 101 class?
  7. I just installed an Edgy Head so I can not measure the stroke thru the head. I tried to measure the stroke from the pan side several times getting a different measurment each time, if I had that third hand we sometimes need I might have gotten a good measurment. Anyway, it's no matter if it's stroked or not I just love my Flathead. The block also has the water pump bypass for the head which tells me it's newer than 48 also. I used the older waterpump type since that was what I have. I think a Block was purchased and installed sometime in the 50s, it has been rebuilt only once since , it has an overbore of .020 on the pistons. This engine runs stronger than the one I had in my 51 truck, and now with the new head and dual carbs it should be even better. When my Winter workings are finished I intend to post pics of my car, I'm pretty proud of my 48 coupe and want to show her off. until then. Keep em running. Flatheadjim
  8. Hey Guy's, My 48 P-15 engine developed a rear main seal leak causing the Clutch to chatter on takeoff. I ordered a Rope seal to repair the leak, upon removing the bearing cap I find a neopreme type seal that had some metal in it causing the leak. I checked my engine block number which is P-15 184996 which is what I thought was a 1948 218 block number BUT my engine has the newer type main seal. Upon futher inspection of the engine I found a casting Date behind the Distributor of 6-21-55. Is this Block a 1955 Powerflow 6 engine of 230 Cubes? If so, how did it get a P-15 stamped on it? Anyone know of any other identifing marks on the block that would say it's a 230. If I had the head off I could measure the stroke, maybe I can get that measurement thru the botton since I have the pan off. Anyway, just trying to figure out what engine I have in my Coupe. What say you.
  9. FYI- Instead of Gouging and Prying out the Bushing, next time find a shaft or Pin punch with the same inside diameter as the bushing (close is good enough) fill the bushing with Grease and hit the Pin with a good sized Hammer and the Hydraulic action will push out the Bushing Slick as can be. Saves on Busted Knuckels.
  10. Thanks Guy's for sharing your knowlage on the Carbs. I do not remember where I heard that the B&B Carbs would not work well together. I too want the most for my buck and that is why I asked about the 847s before buying them. I already have a good B&B so I will purchase another one and go that route. I will also not have to worry about the spark advance not working right with different Carbs. I live on the Northwest Coast so maybe the Fuel boil problem will not be an issue, it's pretty cool here most of the time. This Forum has been a great help with my 48 Plymouth project, I have found many answers by reading here, Thanks again for your insite. Flatheadjim.
  11. A few questions about twin carbs, I bought the Offey twin carb intake for my 218 engine, which carbs to use is my problem. Ive heard that the stock Plymouth B&B carbs don't work well in pairs. Langdon suggests that I use his two barrel Weber-Carter carbs and everything I have heard about them has been good but to me they do not look period correct and to use a Pinto carb on my 48 Plymouth makes me shudder at the thought. Vintage Speed suggests I use the Holley 847s which come from the Ford Flathead six, there supposed to be half the size of the Holley 94s. The 847s are a single barrel setup and will fit my intake without any adapters. I'm leaning on getting the 847s but just wanted to ask if any of you people have any knowlage of this carb in a twin setup? Vintage Speed costs are 155.00 and 85.00 core charge for a total of 480.00 bucks less shipping. That's a lot of Green to hand out and not know anything about the product. I thought the Holley 94s and the Stromberg 97s were a little bit too much for the 218 in a twin setup. Any Thoughts?
  12. I removed my exhaust system from the Manifold back and had a shop redo the whole thing. I had dual pipes just running willi nilli under the car and way too many bends for my likes. Now I still have duals but there as straight as I could get them running side by side out the right rear. I reused the Bluestreak Muffs as they were in good shape. Now my engine does not Afterfire at all on down hill runs and sounds much better than before. I do belive that the system was sucking air somewhere as suggested and causing the popping. No more machinegun and A better tone. FYI. Flatheadjim
  13. I just replaced the exhaust manifold to tailpipe gaskets and everything looks good up against the block. I'm not talking about a few pops or bangs, this thing sounds like machine gun fire when I'm coming down a hill. It really sounds kinda cool but not at the expense of burned valves or whatnot. Everything is tight at the manifolds, all the noise is at the rear of the car. Late ingnition might be the culprit but at this time I can only static time my ignition until my 6 volt timing light arrives. I have it set at three degrees advanced right now, any other ideas?
  14. My 48 P15 has had the exhaust manifold split and Blue Streak Glasspacks installed for Mufflers, and when I use the engine backpressure to slow down on hills I get a lot of Afterfiring thru the pipes. Is this normal? Could it be a timing problem or maybe to rich of a fuel mixture? Hope it's nothing to worry about. The engine runs fine and makes decent power otherwise. Any comments?
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