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Roadkingcoupe

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Everything posted by Roadkingcoupe

  1. Part # 794306 Right Rear Fender (less tail lamp holes) P7 Roadking model Part # 794304 Right Rear Fender (with tail lamp holes) P8 Models The fender is a 1939 Plymouth P7 fender. P7 base Roadking models ONLY had a Drivers side rear tail light, the passenger side tail lamp was an option. As was the Passenger side Windshield wiper! The rear right (passenger) fender is the hardest one to find.
  2. The worm gear in the photo has a small "stub" with splines and was used on early 1960's cars Still the same worm gear just a different variant on the steering tube.
  3. PM me about the item in the photo The picture was posted as an example of the worm gear....not as an offer for sale. I am not interested in straying into the grey area of having the thread locked or moved Yes the photo is of a NOS steering worm gear.
  4. There were two size of worm gears used and there were some left and right hand (thread) versions. After that the steering tube numbers differentiate between the length of steering tube and the style of attachment to the steering wheel. (splines or keyway). The actual worm gear was pressed on to the tube and they are differentiated by a number (i.e. #4 #5 etc.) stamped on the worm gear. In other words if you ID the size and thread of your current worm gear it can be spliced, pressed, swapped or the tube can be welded to accommodate the new worm gear.
  5. inexpensive aftermarket cables are available if you can get by without the OEM factory original there should be an affordable alternative available through the hot rod market.
  6. File Name: 1940 Plymouth Deluxe steering wheel File Submitter: Roadkingcoupe File Submitted: 31 May 2015 File Category: Marketing Brochures 1940 Plymouth Deluxe steering wheel Click here to download this file
  7. File Name: 1939 1940 Plymouth Banjo Steering Wheels File Submitter: Roadkingcoupe File Submitted: 31 May 2015 File Category: Marketing Brochures 1939 1940 Plymouth Banjo Steering Wheels Click here to download this file
  8. File Name: 1940 Plymouth Clock Dealer Brochure File Submitter: Roadkingcoupe File Submitted: 31 May 2015 File Category: Marketing Brochures 1940 Plymouth Clock Dealer Option Page Click here to download this file
  9. File Name: 1939 Plymouth Ambulance Conversion Option File Submitter: Roadkingcoupe File Submitted: 31 May 2015 File Category: Marketing Brochures 1939 Plymouth Ambulance Conversion Option Click here to download this file
  10. File Name: 1939 Plymouth Coupe Pick Up Box Option File Submitter: Roadkingcoupe File Submitted: 31 May 2015 File Category: Marketing Brochures 1939 Plymouth Coupe Pick Up Box Option Click here to download this file
  11. 30 downloads

    1940 Plymouth Deluxe steering wheel
  12. 35 downloads

    1939 1940 Plymouth Banjo Steering Wheels
  13. 14 downloads

    1940 Plymouth Clock Dealer Option Page
  14. 14 downloads

    1939 Plymouth Ambulance Conversion Option
  15. 15 downloads

    1939 Plymouth Coupe Pick Up Box Option
  16. If you search this site there is a handy article how to "graft" your old gauge to a new capillary tube. (edit: Tod Fitch has added the link to the article two posts down). Temperature Gauge Sender Unit Replacement By Jim Leman Replacing the temperature gauge unit on your P-15 is a service best undertaken when you are in a patient mood. As with most jobs requiring work under the dash, this task will test your patience. You will want to replace a broken or defective temperature gauge sending unit because without it you will lack information of a critical aspect of engine operation, water temperature. Temperature gauge sending units fail for various reasons, often from kinks or breaks in the capillary tube. This tube is inside a coiled outer protective wire shield running from the sender bulb to the gauge unit itself. Replacement units can be purchased from any well-known Mopar parts suppliers, both those who market through catalogs, the major old car publications, the Mopar car club periodicals and occasionally they can be found both used and NOS as swap meets. Expect to pay from $100 to more than $200. Inspect the unit carefully, especially the sender capillary tube for kinks and breaks. Test the unit before you install it in your car. Fill a glass or cup with water heated to a predetermined temperature, say 180 degrees, and insert the bulb unit into the liquid. The gauge needle should begin to move slowly and settle on or very close to the gauge face temperature marking that corresponds with the known temperature of the water. If the gauge is working right, lets head to the garage. Get to know the project. Open the car hood and place your fender blanket and tools on the driver’s side fender or bring your tool cart to your side. Hang your shop light so it illuminates your work area brightly. Disconnect the battery ground. Drain the coolant by opening both the radiator and block petcocks. If you don’t coolant will run out onto your clean shop floor when you remove the old temperature bulb from gland nut in the side of head. You will find this gland nut in the left (drivers side) of the head nearest the firewall. The bulb sits inside a tapered, threaded part known as the radimeter gland nut. The nut is a threaded into the head. To remove the old nut, use a little penetrating oil to ease your effort. Loosen it and back away the retainer and then slide the bulb carefully free of the nut. Clean all threads. To reinstall, reverse this procedure. When the retainer is tightened against the gland nut, it will secure the bulb and prevent coolant from leaks. Use thread sealer for insurance. Getting set up: Here’s a helpful hint on positioning yourself for removing the gauge unit from the dash. Position yourself in the passenger compartment like slat, head and torso under the dash with legs and feet over the back of the front seat. Before you get into position though, first pull the throttle knob out full. This will depress the accelerator pedal. Place a rag or old tee shirt over the pedal to provide a cushion for the back of your head when you’re in position. Make sure you get all your tools in position first too. Hang a shop light (I prefer the cooler florescent type) so it illuminates the underside of the dash. Having two lights carefully positioned will help to eliminate or reduce the harsh shadows you’ll get under there with just one light in action. Position the tools you’ll need on the floorboard or on the front seat where you will be able to reach them when in position. The tools you’ll need include a flashlight, a long shaft slotted screwdriver, preferably a magnetized one. Leave the beer in the house. Clearing a path: You might want to remove some underdash clutter before you start. First, remove the headlight switch. The knob removes by inserting a narrow slotted screwdriver blade into the slot on the underside. This frees the knob from the shaft so you can remove the panel nut and slide the switch free from the other side. Bag any hardware removed and label it. You may want to use tape to tape up the switch or let it dangle free. I also found it almost impossible to access the gauge without removing the speedometer unit first. The speedometer is held to the backside of the dash by a few screws across the top and bottom of its housing. When these screws are removed and the speedometer cable removed from the unit, you should be able to jostle the unit free and clear. Place it were it won get damaged. Now, with your long-shafted magnetic slotted screwdriver, find the retaining screws in the back of the gauge and remove them. Keep the screws in a safe place. Unfortunately, the gauge doesn’t pop free, but it too requires plenty of jiggles and a little cussing to convince it to come free of the dash. Try moving the unit up slightly and to the left (as you view it under the dash) to clear the edges of the housing frame. If it doesn’t come free after a few minutes, sit up in the drivers seat, reach up with your arm under the dash and take the unit in hand. Move it to understand how it comes free of the dash glass and how you must move it to free it from the housing. Remove the unit. You’re almost done! To install the new unit, first remove the clip from the firewall grommet through which the sender wire will travel. From inside the car, with the gauge, wire and sender bulb carefully resting on your floorboard or accelerator pedal cushion, carefully push the new sender bulb through the grommet. (A lubricant like ArmorAll here eases the penetration). Now, from engine side, carefully pull the bulb clear of the grommet and with sufficient slack that it touches the gland nut head. Go back inside the car and get into position again. Carefully pull the wire and gauge unit up and through the confusion of wires and stuff behind the dash. Just as you removed the old unit from the dash, install the new one. Use care when feeding the gauge face back into its housing so you don’t damage the delicate needle. You may need to make a paper gasket for the unit first and install it on the gauge face where it mates to the housing. When the unit fits into its housing, insert and tighten the retaining screws you had carefully set aside. Reinstall the speedometer, headlight switch and any other components or wires you may have removed. With the gauge in the dash and capillary tube through the firewall, insert the sender bulb into the gland nut in the head carefully securely. Use some sealer on the retainer nut and tighten against the gland nut. A firm snug and then a nudge is sufficient. Finishing up: Refill the radiator with coolant and restart the engine. Check often for coolant leaks at the gland nut and both the radiator and block petcocks. Keep an eye on the gauge. I t should begin to move as the coolant warms, and it should stop when the coolant reaches the temperature allowed by your engines thermostat. Replacing the temperature gauge on your P-15 takes a little time, but you can do it yourself.
  17. Back to our original program. The 1939 Plymouth has one of the most "rounded" body styles of the era. In fact , the vertical side hood "drop in" panels and the fresh air opening vent are the only "flat" sheet metal on the whole car. Translated.......the car is extremely "bulbous", which I find attractive. So the paint color choice has a lot to do with either accentuating the "bulbous" look with a light color ( white, cream etc.) or using a dark color (black, dark blue etc.) to play down the rounded shape of the car. Burgundy and Aviator Blue are really nice on a 1939 Plymouth as well. Especially with a tan interior. Two tone paint jobs on these cars always remind me of a taxi cab.
  18. 1941 Plymouth on the left 1939 Plymouth on the right different contour and the slots are narrower on the 1939 I have not needed a tool to remove the bezel as it is threaded and once the knob is off just hold the bezel and gently turn the switch to get it started. Then simply rotate the the bezel counter-clockwise and.....voila!
  19. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong....BUT On a 1939 Plymouth the knobs are held on by an integral "spring" clip. There is a slot that runs down the barrel of the knob and the clip needs to be "decompressed" by sliding a mini flat head screw driver away from the dash up towards the driver. Once that is done the knob slides easily off. After that you simply unscrew the "bezel" The tool mentioned in this post is for later years. Not necessary for a 1939 vehicle.
  20. The problem with stainless steel NOS moldings. NOS New Old Stock moldings of the stainless steel kind have NO part numbers on them. They often came in a paper sleeve with a faint part number. Over the years there are 1,000's of unidentified NOS moldings. So it is common to find inexperienced eBay sellers with unidentified moldings with false claims for application. In addition to the right left side, the different models of the SAME year often had slightly different molding lengths (especially two door sedans, 7 passenger sedans and suburbans). The cast or "pot" metal moldings have part numbers embossed on them that make them easy to I.D. Not so much with the stainless steel moldings. I have seen barrels of NOS molding get scrapped because they didnt know what they fit and they didnt have the time or care to research the application.
  21. I would measure BEFORE you cut anything!!!! The O/D on my 1939 was a straight swap. Not sure you have to cut the drive shaft at all. Not as familiar with the R7 but the O/D when installed should be the same length. Might want to measure twice and cut once.
  22. In the boating world, nautical lingo, PORT LIGHTS are the term used for opening and non-opening boat "windows". They are stilled called port lights today.
  23. Nothing is simple..... 1941 DeSoto tail lamp lenses are not all created equal. The body style determines which tail light lens is used. In other words a sedan and coupe have different lenses. The contour of the trunk/fender area is matched by the shape of the lens. A sedan lens will not work on a Coupe or vice versa.
  24. First thought is to ask the shop doing the work. White Post comes to mind and I am sure they would have the pros and cons of both. They should have more experience then the actual car owners. Brass is the softer of the two and I would guess is easier to damage, scuff or score. Stainless Steel might be preferable and should be more durable over time? Both are dissimilar metals from the original cylinder materials and that can cause some problems as well. Since I am still running OEM cylinders I can not offer personal experience....only conjecture.
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