lemondana

Does anyone know why Chrysler put the gauge clusters in the center of the dash on all of the 1938 models?

I found a good place to get about any sealed beam bulbs that you can think of. It gives all of the specs and uses, the different ambers, 6 volt, 12 volt 24 volt. I had several sets of driving and fog lights, in different sizes that I have gotten bulbs- (sealed beams) for. Very reasonably priced also it is replacementlightbulbs.com. The sealed beams are in the top group of headings, you might have to look a little bit. These are all NOS made in USA bulbs, mostly GE. And it tells you how many they have left when you click on the number. Let me know if you find what you need.

Someone used to have dropped spindles for these, they were modified stock spindles. I think it was Fatman Fabrications.

For anyone with gauge problems on the 38 Plymouth, A tidbit of information-the Roadking and the Deluxe used different part number gauges. On the Deluxe, the speedo and gauge pod mount with 3 ears and the Roadking with 2 ears. The individual gauges all have different part numbers.

Your steering u joints look to be Sweet brand. Buy some Borgeson or Flaming River u joints. The Sweet brand is for racing only-it states that right on their website. Otherwise, looking good!

A 1938 Plymouth is either a P5 (Roadking) or a P6 (Deluxe).

Most belts these days are not made in the US. The quality has went downhill. You said that you run the belt loose. When run loose, they slip and will wear out a lot faster. They have to be fairly tight. I'll try to find you a good belt. PM me for info. Myron

What section of the parts book are the paint codes listed. I have an original 1938 Plymouth Parts Book USA.

Thanks for the leads!

Where does a person purchase stuff, like good ignition points, spark plugs and a carburetor kit for a 37 Plymouth. I have a friend that has a 37 Plymouth that has been sitting for over 25 years. It supposedly ran when he parked it. We are going to try to get it running if possible. Thanks! Myron

They sure need a good lesson on the proper way to break in a new cam or a new engine, after several failed attempts. I bet the engine builder they use, is wondering why they are so stupid and can't get it right.