bobostski

I got a set also. I offered $100 for the choke, throttle, and headlight knobs and 2 cables. He took it. I had to drill out the headlight knob as it was threaded and didn't fit over the headlight switch.

I found this on line today . It's a mopar filter giving equivalent filter numbers for the full flow filter on De Soto and Chrysler. I don't know if the numbers are available today but it would be a place to start if you have this filter. This type of filter was only available in the 25" engine and will not fit a Plymouth or a Dodge.

I just bought a set of the knobs fromVintage American parts. He had them listed for $132 or best offer. I offered $100 and he took it. He's sending throttle, choke, and head lights knob, 2- 49 "cables and 2 crome bezels to hold the cables on. This includes shipping I think this is a great deal.

You can get a catalog of dealer accessories that Chrysler put out for your year car if you want to see what the mirrors look like that they offered.

There has to be a bit of original paint somewhere on your car. it's time to play "hide and Seek"...

The drivers door lock and the ignition should be the same key. My 49 Chrysler came without keys and I took out the door lock and had a key made for it. The key then worked perfectly in the ignition. It cost me $65 but i thought that was better than taking the lock apart like your doing.

OK, i just answered my own question. I found this application guide just now. It's a number 10. L for left,R for right. Now how long should it be? 168-51 Application Guide.pdf

Does anyone know the number the the spotlight bracket for a 1948 Plymouth convert? The spot light is a Utility H1. I believe the H1 is correct for a 48 Plymouth.

Just a question. What would you do in the engine bay? How far would you go to clean or restore it? With a car this original I would only replace rubber pieces as needed. I think a car with new paint and or a nice interior should have engine detailed.

The tank on my 49 Chrysler rusted out on the top also. It had been stored for almost 30 years in an airplane hanger. I think moisture condensing in the tank rotted it out.

This is the listing from on line... Headlight Bulb - High & Low Beam (Halogen) Product Line NAPA Lamps PART # LMP H6006 FITMENT Complete Vehicle Conditions WARRANTY Download Reserve Online Price (USD) $15.29 /Each Was $16.99 Call Store for Availability. (214) 760-9104 Qty ROL 10% Off

I bought a set of these bulbs at NAPA. If I remember right it's all they carry. The had to get them from the ware house. I just looked them up and they are listed for $16 each.They are made by Wagner.

To fix the cloisonné' on my 50 Chrysler hub caps,I took clear Rust-o-lium paint and added a small amount of color to create a transparent paint. I then blobbed this paint into the missing area. It took several layers to build up the color. The color looked pale at first but the thicker it got, the better it look. The color on these emblems is vitreous enamel. Not the paint but the same thing that is on the old advertising signs. It is a type of glass that is applied as a powder and is then heated up to about 1800 F. It melts to produce a shiny surface but will crack or chip if bent or hit. The enamel on the signs is opaque. The enamel on the emblems is transparent. Usually the metal surface of the emblem is shined up and has textures so light passes through the enamel and bounces off the surface with a sort of glow. The emblems are usually made of copper. Where the enamel is broken off, the copper will oxidize. If you try to shine the copper back up with a little fine steel wool before applying the paint color repair you will get a better match to the original look. This will not be an invisible repair but will look a lot better. If you get the color but it still isn't filled up, just switch to only clear. If you use regular paint you don't get that stained glass look. I believe the black is opaque. If you pay to have it done ,they will strip off the old color and chrome plating. Shine the surface and reapply the new enamel and heat it on. On small part the heating can be done with a torch from below but most of the time the part is put in an electric kiln. Then the part will be re-chromed. Enamel will not stick to chrome hence the plating after. FYI, cloisonne' refers to the technique of applying enamel to a surface where the colors are separated by metal creating individual pockets. The Chinese did a lot of this and I believe invented the technique.

I removed the oil pan to clean and found the steering arm was in the way off removal.I turned the wheels and I was able to get it out. I thought I would have to take it all apart. Just a FYI moment.

Here is a picture during the filming.

"Just out of interest: Fast n Loud? How real is it and how much staging does take place? :-)" I saw the car on the internet and since I live close , I went there to look at it. I worked with Tony ,the sales manager and made a deal. This was Monday. He told me to come back Friday for the filming. I had to pretend it was the first time I saw the car. Richard said to have fun, we would go back and forth and when they think they have enough film, he would quot the price I paid and I should make the deal. It was fun being on it and it is all totally set up. I drove my 55 there hoping they would use it in the show. At first the producer said no but then came back saying they never had someone drive in an old car to buy an old car. Some time the story's are true but they will change it to make it more interesting. When I was on it in the 4th season , Tony told me they had only filmed one deal as it happened all the rest were after. There is very little reality in reality TV.

I have one on my 49 Chrysler that I paid $100 for. It was worth every penny to see the looks on peoples faces when I press the button and it pops open, They can't believe it is a factory accessory. I put the hot wire to the switch on the drivers door that turns the dome lights on because it is hot all the time. This way I don't have to turn on the car to show it off. I think you will just have to make the lugs but you will enjoy the gas cap.

Hi, My brother , who lives in Hawaii, is thinking about buying a truck from Gateway Classic Cars at 4400 West 96th Street, Indianapolis, IN 46268. I was wondering if anyone in the neighborhood would mind going there and looking at the truck for him.He's likes the looks from the pictures but some real eyes would be better. If you can do this, call or PM me and I can give you the details. 469 286 7879 The truck is a lesser brand than what we talk about here but he's my brother so I'll forgive him.

There are gas, brake and clutch pedals on ebay all the time at different prices.Most are after market. I would just swatch for a while and you should get a good deal.Check to see what Andy gets for them and look for some cheaper. That's what I do for many parts.

For door panel board, I went to a plastic supply co. and bought expanded "pvc "sheets.Its foam like in the center and smooth on the outside. It doesn't compress or dent if you squeeze it like foam core board does. It comes in different thicknesses and colors ,very light ,easy to cut, you can use a knife, very water proof and supper strong. I can also be heated and curved and will hold the new shape. I comes in 4'x8 sheets and smaller sizes. I taped two together an cut both sided at the same time. I used the 1/8 ". Some sign making supply co. will also carry this product. Its so strong you can pull on it to get it off the door without it tearing. It's much better than the paper originals.

I had the same kind of problem with one of my cars and noticed it ran better if I left the choke pulled out a little even after it had warmed up. When I rebuild the carb. the problem went away. You might be having a problem if your choke is not pushed in all the way after the car has warmed up. I believe you car has a manual choke. Just one of the many thing that could be wrong.

I went to a muffler shop and had one bent.

1948 out of the the LeMay Collection in Tacoma Wash.I acquired the car last Nov.

If you pull the wire out of the steering column to inspect it, tie a string to it and pull it through to help get the wire back into the column.

I Googled the names and found lot of images.