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TENN-Haney

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  1. I have called twice, got answering machine both times. Just curious....... I thought I might post here on a thread started about this vehicle to see if anyone knew the price. Sorry if I have inconvenienced anyone by doing so....
  2. Anybody ever find out what they wanted for this?
  3. OK, here is an update..... I put in new points (left in old condenser) and set them at .020. Replaced the Rotor button but parts store did not have a cap so I left the old one in there. I also changed the plug wires with brand new tractor supply copper cores and the plugs. Put in Auto-lite 295's gaped at .035 I started the car up and set the timing to 0. I also added a balast resistor in line to the ingnition wire going to coil. I have 6-7 volts going to distributor now. The good news..... The backfire under load is now gone and when warm, you can not let off the starter key fast enough to keep it from starting! This thing starts great. The bad news..... Seems like I have a rougher idle now. Do you think it could be the condensor or the cap? Is my plug gap or points gap too wide? Should I now look at the fuel system? Thanks for all the help.....
  4. Thanks Ruth1932, That helps alot......
  5. DUH! One should really think about things before they ask! Thanks for keeping me honest Ed. Jamie
  6. What condensor and coil should I use/have? What do I ask for at parts store? Thanks for the reply Mr. Merle
  7. Ruth1932, Ever figure this out? Mine is the same? Did some lube on the joints work?
  8. Hello all, I have a 53 Plymouth that was converted to 12v before I bought it. The conversion is a "hack job" at best and needs to be gone over...... Anyway, I have a miss in the car when I am driving it. It usually occurs when I have the engine is a pull. The cap, rotor, points and plug wires are pretty bad and I need to replace. Here are some questions I have.... 1. If I buy points, condenser, cap and rotor that are made for a 1953 Plymouth at one of the box parts stores, I am sure they will be assuming I still have a 6V system. Will these work with a 12 Volt system. 2. I was noticing that on my firewall there was a ballast resistor but it was not hooked up. I then noticed that on my (+) side of the coil I have 12V and also on my (-) side I also have 12v going to my distributor. Is this right? On all my previous cars (that were 12v from the factory) the switch feed took the 12 v thru a balast resistor, droped it to 6 volts and then when to the (+) side of the coil. Do I need to limit my volts to the coil to 6V? I checked continunity of the resistor on the firewall and it is shorted out. I have continunity and no resistance..... The car has what looks like a GM alternator installed. I have never worked on a 6v conversion so I don't know if any of this is OK or not.... Thanks for any help you can give....
  9. I am very intersted. I have sent you a pm. Thanks
  10. Yes it does, I live in Piney Flats, TN (upper East Tennessee) near Johnson City. Are you from TN?
  11. I have a 53 plymouth cambridge and the fuel pump is pouring. Where is the best place to buy one? The ones at the chain auto store does not look like mine... Mine does not have a glass bowl and all the pictures on line show a glass bowl..... Thanks for any help.....
  12. Tank, That 49 is AWESOME..... What kind and size are those wide whites you have on it? What size rim you running? Thanks, Jamie
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